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Painted Interior Trim pieces


doogdog

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I was sick of the cheap two-tone silver dash trim pieces. I decided to paint them a satin black followed up with a satic clear. I used the Krylon Fusion Satin black with the regular Krylon Satin Crystal Clear. I sanded all the pieces and masked off the appropriate places (gear indicator, +, -, and ash tray trim). Im curious to see your thoughts, this is how it should have come from the factory. BTW, the knob you see on the right of the shifter is my bass control knob for my RF amp.

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA0Mzg4MTZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wMTA0Mzg4MjZzNDEzZGZkMzF5NTQx.jpg

Rick

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Guest JessterCPA

I was thinking of doing the same thing. I have some scratches in the silver due to moving some furniture.

 

Thanks for the pics. Looks great.

 

jesse

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Damn! From that close-up, it looks like a really nice job! :) I like the muted look. Cool :cool:

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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It probably goes without saying but I removed all these pieces to paint them. If you decide to do this yourself leave at least a day for curing of the paint. I found out the hard way the first time around and rushed it. had to sand it down and do it over, I'm so impatient. The hardest part of the whole thing is the masking off the parts that need not be painted, if you have a MT this will be a breeze. Nothing that an exacto knife and some painter's tape can't fix for the AT crowd. Another tip is to hang these pieces to paint them, will make it much easier.

Rick

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Guest *Jedimaster*
It probably goes without saying but I removed all these pieces to paint them. If you decide to do this yourself leave at least a day for curing of the paint. I found out the hard way the first time around and rushed it. had to sand it down and do it over, I'm so impatient. The hardest part of the whole thing is the masking off the parts that need not be painted, if you have a MT this will be a breeze. Nothing that an exacto knife and some painter's tape can't fix for the AT crowd. Another tip is to hang these pieces to paint them, will make it much easier.

Rick

Is the paint you used kind of "textured"? I'm not sure what the term is, but it has like a feel to it? If so, I'd be OK using paint like that- it's the glossy stuff that always winds up with runs.

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jedi,

 

Just take your time, and also, paint the parts when they're cool to the touch (but definitely also not stone-cold! trust me, Ohio-winter painting is hard, too!).

 

The trick to not getting runs is to not try to rush things and get "complete coverage" with just the very first coat.

 

Smooth, even coats is what you're looking for, and if you need several coats in order to get proper coverage, that's just how much it'll take. Grab some scrap pieces of plastic and get in some practice.

 

My other hobby as well as my DSM-days is what basically taught me -the hard way- how to properly spray-paint small automotive parts/trim.

 

Like doogdog said, leave yourself PLENTY of time, a day, or even the entire weekend, is good to devote to these projects, if you want them done right.

 

His other advice are right-on as well, and I'd encourage you to follow them. Hanging the pices helps tremendously, especially if you can get them to hang "freely" so that you can get a complete 360-degree rotation about them to insure all aspects are painted properly.

 

Mind the "apply second coating" times on the bottle/canister, and follow them carefully.

 

Also, always start off your spray streams *OFF* of your piece (so that any first "spurts" or "dribbles" will not land on your piece), and then move the spray over to the piece. Same for your ending stroke, go off the piece, and THEN stop.

 

You'll do just fine - I've "seen" your mechanical skills here. Just take your time, and you'll do very well. :)

<-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges

'16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family

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Ive done a lot of interior painting in my previous DSM as well and found that using a blowdryer in between light coats of paint helped cut down drying time,...

 

When all the painting is done though, you really have to give it a few days for the paint to harden,...

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I did the same thing to my car. I want to convert the rest of the interior grey pieces to black and have highlights of another color which I am not sure of yet. Possibly red since i painted my calipers red and engine dress up stuff is also red.

 

I will post pictures later.....

2002 Subaru Legacy L (Retired)

2008 Subaru Legacy 2.5GT

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Im thinking of doing the side inserts in the door behind the inner door grab handle in grey suede,..That would be nice,...Not sure if I want to paint everything black, but its a step up compared to the dull grey color the side/shift trim is now,..Good job,..
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Looks sharp. How's the scratch resistance on that paint though? It's not going to get effed up as quickly as the plastic before it will it? My center plastic piece around the shifter is all scratched to hell already. Dunno what I hit it with, but it looks aweful after only 6 mo's.
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Looks sharp. How's the scratch resistance on that paint though? It's not going to get effed up as quickly as the plastic before it will it? My center plastic piece around the shifter is all scratched to hell already. Dunno what I hit it with, but it looks aweful after only 6 mo's.

 

Using couple coats of clearcoat will help protect the color coat some and more scratch resistant,...Although, clearcoat gives the "shiny" appearance though and not give the "flat" color some are looking for,..

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do you have a how to on taking off all the interior pieces? this is something i plan to do this winter when i have the garage. but i haven't figured out how to take all the parts off. also, i want to paint the interior door pieces as well. anyone know how those come off?
Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle yeah!!!
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