FJuan Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 It's possible, if there wasn't enough pressure. Do you have an oil gauge? The OCV may have been sticking, if it happens again, I would def pull the OCV out and inspect it. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted February 11, 2014 Author Share Posted February 11, 2014 I do not have an oil pressure gauge. Is that something I should probably look into? I do have one open spot in my little gauge cubby. http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6145/6002110412_b460febc5f_b.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevjohn Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 I was going to run boost and egt or oil in my cubby Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 egt? If you've modded your egt with resistor for uppipe mod, then its pointless, so oil pressure for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FJuan Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 It's a wise investments with these cars. I can usually tell when my oil is getting low when the oil psi gauge starts to dip below 12psi @ idle. My wife's balls are delicious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevjohn Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 egt? If you've modded your egt with resistor for uppipe mod, then its pointless, so oil pressure for sure. Cool thanks! But I am curious, would it be worth it at all to run an egt after the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 Normally you have 2 bungs in aftermarket downpipe, 1 for stock. For aftermarket 1 on top behind turbo is usually used for wideband sensor, and other for regular o2 sensor, stock pipe only has spot for 1 sensor. Don't really need the rear o2. But most people don't care for egt's in catless uppipe because the filament might take out your turbo if a piece of it breaks off. If you run it after turbo I doubt the readings will be as accurate as it being in manifold/uppipe. If you have a bung in your uppipe for it, thats where it should go, otherwise.... remove it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted February 11, 2014 Share Posted February 11, 2014 OCV is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA07lgt Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 do urself a favor go get it checked to be 100%... if it is the same issue im dealing with now ull have a much bigger headache down the road. My car was doin the same thing next thing i know im lookin at roughly $2k worth of work and hope that my engine doesnt go on me Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 do urself a favor go get it checked to be 100%... if it is the same issue im dealing with now ull have a much bigger headache down the road. My car was doin the same thing next thing i know im lookin at roughly $2k worth of work and hope that my engine doesnt go on me OK, what is it that you were dealing with and how did you remedy it? Thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA07lgt Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 OK, what is it that you were dealing with and how did you remedy it? Thanks in advance! it started the same as ur's... but i payed no attention to it seeing as the cel and cruise control light would go off... then they stayed on and my car is now throwing the p0011 code also along with 6 other codes... has possible turbo failure and for a remedy its going to a shop where im paying bout $2k to replace oil lines/turbo/gaskets and banjo bolt and hoping that no metal or copper made its way into my engine if it did then im shit out of luck on my engine and need to pay lord knows how much for a new one... deff get it checked and be on the safe side. I wish i wasnt dumb and got it checked... rather pay what ever at the time than the headache now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted February 12, 2014 Author Share Posted February 12, 2014 it started the same as ur's... but i payed no attention to it seeing as the cel and cruise control light would go off... then they stayed on and my car is now throwing the p0011 code also along with 6 other codes... has possible turbo failure and for a remedy its going to a shop where im paying bout $2k to replace oil lines/turbo/gaskets and banjo bolt and hoping that no metal or copper made its way into my engine if it did then im shit out of luck on my engine and need to pay lord knows how much for a new one... deff get it checked and be on the safe side. I wish i wasnt dumb and got it checked... rather pay what ever at the time than the headache now Hoping I dont see a similar fate, however I did take it into the shop and have it checked out. The only thing that was out of the ordinary was a was a bit low on oil. They also said that the unreasonably cold days we have been having in these parts could have played a part. Short of replacing the banjo bolt and OCVs just on a whim I don't see much else I can do to be on the safe side as you say. Any suggestions? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA07lgt Posted February 12, 2014 Share Posted February 12, 2014 from what im told cleaning the banjo bolt and descreen the oil feed lines but i know basically nothing when it comes to cars... just lettin u know what im going through right now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kzr750r1 Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 Replacing the OCVS is a great move. But I need to be sure what you said. You replaced the passenger banjo bolt with a new screen in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sublimejoe Posted February 13, 2014 Author Share Posted February 13, 2014 Replacing the OCVS is a great move. But I need to be sure what you said. You replaced the passenger banjo bolt with a new screen in it? I did not. I suppose I will just order a banjo bolt and OCV's to be safe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cptxbig Posted February 13, 2014 Share Posted February 13, 2014 I had the same code along with cylinder 2&4 misfire it was the ocv car is running like a top again Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jenzos Posted February 14, 2014 Share Posted February 14, 2014 I have posted this before but... I had the same code, a few days later I started the car to a oil pressure light and the sound of satan in the engine bay. I pulled the pan. Looked like silver paint w/ large metal shavings. My oil pickup was pretty clogged but not cracked or anything. Unsure if this was before or after the knock. I had a p0011 code w/ a cyl3 misfire IIRC. When I pulled the motor out, I took off my pass side OCV and it came out in 2 pieces. I have never seen one of these break before. Somehow this managed to break. My oil feed line at the turbo was surrounded with small metal shavings as well. When I pulled the turbo, there was no visible signs of destruction. Slightly abnormal shaft play but nothing out of LGT ordinary. Upon further inspection of the shortblock, my cyl#4 rod was actually smacking the block and left a decent witness mark. The heads were iffy, w/ mild scoring on cams. If I was building a car for power / anything but grandma driving I would have thrown them away. I hope this helps but doesn't scare you into a mass frenzy of buying crap you might not need at all / yet. I believe that the OCV broke -> starved oil from turbo -> turbo sent metal everywhere thus destroying the bottom end / spun rod bearing. I would also look into getting an oil pressure gauge as others have mentioned, the stock light comes on at dangerously low levels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cptxbig Posted February 15, 2014 Share Posted February 15, 2014 I have posted this before but... I had the same code, a few days later I started the car to a oil pressure light and the sound of satan in the engine bay. I pulled the pan. Looked like silver paint w/ large metal shavings. My oil pickup was pretty clogged but not cracked or anything. Unsure if this was before or after the knock. I had a p0011 code w/ a cyl3 misfire IIRC. When I pulled the motor out, I took off my pass side OCV and it came out in 2 pieces. I have never seen one of these break before. Somehow this managed to break. My oil feed line at the turbo was surrounded with small metal shavings as well. When I pulled the turbo, there was no visible signs of destruction. Slightly abnormal shaft play but nothing out of LGT ordinary. Upon further inspection of the shortblock, my cyl#4 rod was actually smacking the block and left a decent witness mark. The heads were iffy, w/ mild scoring on cams. If I was building a car for power / anything but grandma driving I would have thrown them away. I hope this helps but doesn't scare you into a mass frenzy of buying crap you might not need at all / yet. I believe that the OCV broke -> starved oil from turbo -> turbo sent metal everywhere thus destroying the bottom end / spun rod bearing. I would also look into getting an oil pressure gauge as others have mentioned, the stock light comes on at dangerously low levels. Split in half that's not cool man Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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