perrin Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 sube555,I guess you are missing the point that the bar in the first 2 positions isn't supposed to hit on anything and clear everything. You are making it seem like we are saying that is OK, when it is not. THE BARS ARE NOT SUPPOSED TO HIT ON ANYTHING!! We have never had an issue with the front, you are the first. This we will look into. The newest front bar has changed from the one you have, mainly for looks. Maybe we can get you one of these to solve your problem. You say the middle setting is the one you like the best. That is great. Like i said the bar shouldn't hit anything in that position, but for some reason it does on yours and a couple other peoples cars. Obviously the back corner is what is making contact with parts. The flange could be offset backwards .125" and cause this. You make it seem like the part is designed wrong. That is where you are wrong. Some thing is just wrong with a few parts, which comes to a manufacturing issue. Having more adjustments than others is a benifit that we woud like to keep, but if it truely isn't something the that customer REALLY cares about then we won't. Simply removing the last hole will eliminate any clearence issues do to manufacturing differences. So will sliding it forward a little. We will take care of getting you a part that doesn't hit and or interfere with anything. scans007,First off thanks for being the poster boy for us. Being our poster boy we will show you how we are going to fix the bar and take care of you quickly. We are still up in the air weather or not to just make it with 3 holes or 2. For this we would still like some input from the LGT community. The other competition has 1 or 2 holes. Obviously here there are people that are just fine with 2 holes and that may be the way to go. To anyone else that does have a problem, please contact us and we will get you taken care of right away. PERRIN PERFORMANCE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Hmm interesting, I have no problems with a 2 hole bar at all, that would leave me at the setting I am on now, and might turn out to be the only viable option! People/Customers love options, so most will prob say keep the 3 whole design, I know that's y I wanted it, I love adjustablity.......the question becomes is it actually possible to keep the 3 hole design without affecting the performace of the bar! Thanx for posting, its nice to see a company stand behind its products and will certainally build trust in the commmunity! I hope this all works out for the Company and its customers (me ) alike without too much damage done! Me waiting with Eyes/ears wide open Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 %5Bimg%5Dhttp%3A//i7.photobucket.com/albums/y279/SteveISU/DSC02336.jpg[/img] Problem Solved! OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Jeff @ Perrin - are you planning to redesign both front and rear bars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoxerGT2.5 Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 After digging for Keefe's thread from a LONGGGGGGGG time ago.....I'm not to far off. http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3611&highlight=Cusco+Sways OBAMA......One Big Ass Mistake America! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrin Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Rear yes, front no. Rear for obvious reasons, but the front has already gone through a change. We first made an LGT specific bar, and an STI specific bar. Both OEM bars are quite bit different do the lower subframe the STI has, and the fact the LGT doesn't (yet). Now the STI front and the LGT are the same and fit the car great. So it is different compared to the first bar, but not different for the last few months. PERRINPERFORMANCE.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Just out of curiosity... would an adjustable endlink help cure this issue? Extending the endlinks some wouldn't remedy the clearance problem? "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 Just out of curiosity... would an adjustable endlink help cure this issue? Extending the endlinks some wouldn't remedy the clearance problem? I had adjustable ones and stock endlinks. I guess you could shorten up the endlinks and put vertical tension on the bar, but it seeing how beefy they are (solid vs. hollow), I don't think it would do much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 wow, we are still on this subject?? Haha! Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 I had adjustable ones and stock endlinks. I guess you could shorten up the endlinks and put vertical tension on the bar, but it seeing how beefy they are (solid vs. hollow), I don't think it would do much. Well, no... in reality as long as both sides are being acted on equally, no tension would be added. So I say... to avoid this... http://homepage.mac.com/jsalicru/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/2005-08-27%2020.15.10%20-0700/Image-8A2A697E176F11DA.jpg Couldn't you simply elongate the adjustable endlinks therefore separating the sway bar from the control arm? "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xenonk Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 but that would defeat the purpose of having a shorter bar for less torsion effects. Keefe Keefe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsalicru Posted August 31, 2005 Share Posted August 31, 2005 no it wouldn't. You would still have the same leverage of the hole to the bushing. The change would be in the verticar distance between the bar and the control arm. This is part of the reason adj endlinks are around. As well as preload settings and what not. On STi adj. endlinks are useful to prevent sway bar flipping by elongating the distance between the control arm and the sway bar. "some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted September 3, 2005 Author Share Posted September 3, 2005 as jsalicru said by using adjustable end links you do not decrease the distance from the load to the fulcrum thus the force is the same i had to use adjustable end links to get the progress to stop hitting the upper arm poltecs are nice but spendy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrin Posted September 7, 2005 Share Posted September 7, 2005 Just because it has been a while and i think people need an update. We have had many ideas, like the one above we have come up with longer endlinks for the immediate need of existing customers, we have thought about making it 3 holes but moving the bracket forward creating 21.5, 22.5, and 23.5, and of course chopping off the 24mm hole. In the end the removal of the 24mm hole is what we choose to go with. The future bars will all have 2 holes, and have zero clearence issues with the control arms and anything. The car we built this from, our 05 LGT Sedan, starts to have clearence issues when the wheel is about 2" tucked up inside the wheel well. Basically when it almost hits the bumpstop on the chassis. So basically the only time this hits on the 1st and second setting is when the rear suspension is totally compressed. So no possibly way for collision. If anyone has this problem, please call us or email and we will get you taken care of. Thanks for everyone patience with this situation, new bars can be shipped in about 2 weeks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Bump for taking care of those members still awaiting a response from Perrin about their issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 ^ AKA...........ME....... Thanx man ;p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted September 16, 2005 Share Posted September 16, 2005 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUBE555 Posted September 24, 2005 Share Posted September 24, 2005 Anyone else her getting responses back from the mfg? I'm still waiting for replies as well as the vendors I'm working with on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scans007 Posted September 25, 2005 Share Posted September 25, 2005 Yes, perrin has talked to PatGT and myself, I don't know who else....be patient, I'm sure the have a ton to work through......Give them a call and follow up....although I'm sure you have Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted September 25, 2005 Share Posted September 25, 2005 I've been using the Perrin bars (F&R) for several months without any clunking. This is on an OBXT, so I'm guessing that the higher stance is giving me better tolerance between suspension pieces. I used the grease supplied liberally, no squeeking at all. I also used the rear bracket supports. They had some initial fit issues - bolt holes didn't line up with OEM holes. Solved by drilling them a bit larger (Perrin, not OEM). I'm about to change shocks/springs & expect ride height to be a bit lower than stock LGT, so I'll probably start seeing the same problems you all have. Perrin - please keep us posted on the forums about any new resolutions/conclusions you reach concerning this. ('course, I wrote this before noticing page 2-3 of this thread) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrin Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 The part has changed, and those who have contacted us and choosen to warranty the part have gotten the new ones. They fit perfect on the car, fit in all positions (1 and 2). The brackets have stayed the same because we haven't had any issues with them. But Boulderguy, i am interested in how you installed them. If we need to open up that hole a little more or change the angle of the bends to fit a little better we can. Of all the swaybar issues as of late, the brackets haven't been an issue at all. But since you have an OBXT, it may be because of the lower subframe and the spacers they use for the added ground clearence. We may need to change our instructions slightly. Our bars old and new have fit great on those with no issues. But if you have the same issues let us know, we will get a new bar out to you right away. We have found that there are not as many people effected by this problem as it may look. But with that said, if anyone does have a problem PLEASE call us and we will get you taken care of! PERRIN Performance 503-643-4677 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted September 26, 2005 Share Posted September 26, 2005 Of all the swaybar issues as of late, the brackets haven't been an issue at all. Actually Jeff - the brackets are an indeed issue - the first problem I encountered with your product (which was reported to my dealer the same day I tried to install). I had to open up the holes on mine to get them to align properly - they are off by half an inch. I fooled with them for weeks and finally pulled them off the car after trying to troubleshoot the noise issues I got upon installing the swaybars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted September 27, 2005 Share Posted September 27, 2005 Actually Jeff - the brackets are an indeed issue - the first problem I encountered with your product (which was reported to my dealer the same day I tried to install). I had to open up the holes on mine to get them to align properly - they are off by half an inch. I fooled with them for weeks and finally pulled them off the car after trying to troubleshoot the noise issues I got upon installing the swaybars. Dan knows I had problems installing mine. I too slotted the holes to fit correctly, otherwise, fitment is close to impossible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Perrin, thanks for the reply & staying on top of this. It appears to me that you've done an admirable job in addressing these issues thru the forum & I respect that. And I sure hope it's not just a public performance. 'Nuff said. So the rear brackets - mine were off by maybe 3-4 mm in length (extended past the oem bolt hole towards the ground). I could minimize that by half with some body english, but couldn't ever force it all together. Cussed. Alot. Punched out the bracket hole a couple drill bit sizes larger, fit fine, no probs. If I were designing the bracket, I'd change the bolt hole to a bolt slot, roughly 1.5x - 2x the length (top to bottom) of the existing hole. Bonus points if it's knurled, but not important. If I do have issues with parts colliding after changing springs/struts I'll definitely be in touch, in which case I can send them all back to you for inspection & recon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
perrin Posted September 28, 2005 Share Posted September 28, 2005 Dan, Man we are striking out with you! When you installed these and they didn't work, why didn't you call us? We could have checked a couple of dimensions over the phone and figured it out? I looked at the parts you sent back and the top connection looks like it was mounted in one position. What i mean is that it looks like the top Chassis connection was bolted tight, when you installed the lower half (the side that doesn't fit). The upper half (large bolt going through the chassis) has to be loose when inserting the lower screw. This upper connections hole is bigger than the bolt by a slight amount to help with alignment with the differences in cars. By the marks in the top connection, it looks like the bracket was offset to one side. The offset was in the opposite direction that it look like you made the hole bigger. The amount that the part MAY have been off was no where near .5". You may have used a .5" drill to make the slot bigger, but using the marks left over from the nut, the amount it was off was more like .0625" or a 16th of an inch. If the upper bolt was left loose when the lower bolt was installed, it would fit perfectly fine. I could be completely wrong, and you may have installed it correct, but i went out to our LGT and it fit just fine. Yes this could have been do to the added .125" of clearence you added, but i could get it to line up to your marks and a location opposite of yours just fine. Either way it seems as though more than a couple people have had issues with installing them and maybe the instructions need to change. We do mention how the bolts need to stay loose until the bracket is installed, but maybe there is more to say. If anyone has suggestions as to how to make the instructions clearer, please let us know we do want to make the install go as smooth as possible for those DIYers. PERRIN PERFORMANCE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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