Perscitus Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 (edited) You're better off having them ceramic coated. Too many headaches with wrapping, high possibility of metal 'rot' given where they're located on the 3.6R. Plus with the amount of runners and header geometry, wrapping would be tricky and you'd likely need to wrap all the runners together with one pass. On an NA car, having them coated is only going to give modest gains (plus I have not seen any measurable engine bay temp increase with un-coated Raptor SS headers). Coating them would be a very good idea on a supercharged 3.6R or any turbocharged Subaru engine. Edited February 8, 2015 by Perscitus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nstg8r Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Mine was just a metal jug with in and out. I added mesh to it but it's not catching anything. I'm currently hooked up to the breather line and I'm gonna switch to the pcv line to see what that does. Mine was the same (Mishimoto - non-baffled version). I stuffed mine with stainless steel wool. I also added a tube to the "In" port that extends to about half way down in the can to force the vapors to go up through the ss wool before exiting the can. My homemade one is of similar design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 BW EFR on an EZ36 late last year says you dont need much to make 1000Hp@crank on E85. Made 600whp on 15psi, no idea what it is really making on 19psi in S# since 7 guys sitting in the car/trunk could not get an accurate dyno reading. Airflow figures suggests it is somewhere in the insane to lock away the key power range. Owner is currently contemplating dental gas to run a 9 second pass. Gio would know the owner from the FB group. I assume this is a turbo setup? "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Did some initial checks on the PRS LWCP. Car parked for a week, cold engine. No oil or oil residue below the car, on the crankcase cover, anywhere around the pulley. Removed the crank bolt cover, no oil or signs of prior leaks there. Removed accessory belt and checked for pulley play - none. Replaced belt, started her up. No wobble, no leaks while idling or at 1.5, 2, 3K RPM. Ran the engine until fully warmed up. Coolant temp ~195-200F. No leaks... yet. Next up will be full pulley removal to inspect the crank seal and any damage to the pulley surface itself. I will do this when then new seal comes in. So far so good... even though I know inside the groove might have developed or is starting to develop and has either already or will potentially start to eat away at the crank seal. Hopefully not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Thanks for the update, Perscitus. I completely forgot to check. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenc1703 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Here are some pics of my catch can install, apparently i did put it in line with the pcv line. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/a7a630a76e27ba191dcef614c8f9cdcc.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/62ebc171281cb9d69c6e84024ee524b6.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/7d680e61238a5832f8cab102a911ed5c.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/c02ea9333fcc29d9ee768e673d935c11.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/68efd3e88ad81ae31294ae09d22543f7.jpg http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/3b51a310b26921bbdeba151d8ed3fb2f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/225c931abf6165c6dc43125d56b041d5.jpg Edited February 9, 2015 by stevenc1703 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevenc1703 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Here are pics of my throttle bypass. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/3fefc8b3376a4d34581c07ee8a76f05a.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/e8d141c99c7945f3528cad86dc254627.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/dceae64bed01394d80e0ec6fb78f017a.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/09/98616d9ba4d9ab534ebc45c3cb22b0fe.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aeterna Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Might want to replace that PCV Valve its looking a little old and stock $10 part can save a lot of heartache. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 (edited) Got the donor throttle body in the mail today. Its not as clean as my 2010 or your 2011 unit Steve! Almost looks like its seen a few Pacific North-West winters or a bath in salt water... Parts seller (Spalding Auto Parts in WA) quoted a 2013 with 600 miles on the ODO - my #$^%, but it seems to be in good shape. I took some measurements and moarh off-the-car pics: Intake tube facing Inlet OD: 75mm Intake tube facing Inlet ID: ~71mm Intake Manifold facing ID OD: ~65mm Butterfly Valve: 65mm (by this, a stock 3.6R DBW Throttle Body is considered a TRUE 65mm bore TB) Throttle body depth: 70mm Edited February 9, 2015 by Perscitus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 great info so far, Perscitus. trouble is: if the intake manifold is 65mm ID, we are stuck. The intake manifold doesn't look like it can be opened up as there is very little material holding the gasket that faces the TB. I will look at my used intake manifold when it arrives. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 I'm going to return this TB. My auto mechanic buddies confirmed its been submerged. Leaving the state of the DBW electronics, TPS, etc in question. Id rather not risk finding that out after maxbore makes this a 300 paperweight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 Good plan. Funny about the low miles. I got the intake manifold today. I measured the ID with a caliper at 68mm. My two year old saw the box and kept saying, "bicycle, bicycle." A few days ago, her little bicycle had arrived. I truly hope the TB I ordered is in good shape. If not, I will at least measure the front and back ID before returning. A lot hinges in getting the boomba TB to work, and if that happens, a lot depends on the ID of the boomba TB on the back side. A lot of effort for 5whp.... "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Just a clarification on the last part. 1. The plastic manifold should work with the sti TB. 2. Worst case, I use an sti DBW control if the 3.6 unit doesnt fit? Boomba was concerned about the 3.6 DBW fitment. I was going to try the 3.6 control from the used 3.6 TB and if that didnt work, I was going to get an sti TB and use that control. Good to know this backup would work. I wasnt sure how the sti DBW was calibrated and how it would respond to my pedal input. Edit: would like to pick your brains on plugging versus connecting the TB coolant lines together. And, a good use of a catch can or not to use. Edited February 10, 2015 by fredrik94087 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Good news and good info on the 08+ STI TB/DBW setup and compatibility. I've done some research from another angle and I think I'll give this mod (replacement larger bore TB or a bored out, port/polished stock TB) a pass for now . Some of the reasons behind this for me are: a. velocity change (drop) with most bored out TBs on NA applications (don't want to sacrifice low-end torque for top-end flow and power gain for DD) b. manifold porting issue (vs leaving a stock manifold ID against a bored out TB outlet ID causing turbulence, etc.) c. potential TPS calibration issues (change in closed throttle, WOT reported TPS positions, change in throttle open % vs butterfly valve angle) d. potential idle issues As much as I feel that a 65mm throttle is likely too small and a restriction on a 3.6L H6 (I see TBs destined for similar displacement engines bored to 74-80mm), I think that Subaru likely designed the intake manifold around or at least together with this 65mm TB they decided to slap on the 3.6L. Changing its geometry must have an effect on NA air velocity and how its maintained (or not) within the manifold and on to the cylinders. Even if we don't get any adverse effects from increasing the bore, tuning to take advantage of it AND calibrate it properly might prove tricky. I'll run the idea by Rob and see what he thinks - if its even worth say taking my stock TB off and boring it out a bit while keeping the butterfly valve as-is and leaving the diameter there @ 65mm. https://www.thefastman.com/throttlebodiesDBW36.php Edited February 10, 2015 by Perscitus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) Perscitus, that is a great find! I just called the guy. He says he is very busy with Dodge TBs at the time and may not get to any custom work like Subaru TBs until April or May. I got something in my POBox today from a company that rhymes with "oomba". I will take some measurements of front and back ID tonight. Cheers! Edited February 10, 2015 by fredrik94087 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 I would like to clean the used intake manifold as it is a little greasy/oily. What may I use that will not harm the nylon/plastic intake manifold? "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMajickMan Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionSearch&storeid=2&vehicleid=378669§ion=MANUAL%20TRANSAXLE&Title=Subaru-Legacy-3.6R%20Premium-H6-3.6-GAS-OEM-Parts Just thought I'd leave this here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 (edited) I would like to clean the used intake manifold as it is a little greasy/oily. What may I use that will not harm the nylon/plastic intake manifold?Scrubbing Bubbles! Ideally the 'flavor' that starts blue when sprayed and turns white. It's also great for engine bay cleaning as it will not harm out aluminum blocks, timing chain covers, etc. https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQcBptaKFEtoPmxEp5hoXHiM1toXkVrTLJFZYAnu3J-xdEeol-Y&usqp=CAY Did I mention pics?! Pics, IDs, Pics Pics Pics https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionSearch&storeid=2&vehicleid=378669§ion=MANUAL%20TRANSAXLE&Title=Subaru-Legacy-3.6R%20Premium-H6-3.6-GAS-OEM-Parts Just thought I'd leave this here.Holy price shock! Don't tell us you need one. Edited February 10, 2015 by Perscitus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 10, 2015 Author Share Posted February 10, 2015 https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.sectionSearch&storeid=2&vehicleid=378669§ion=MANUAL%20TRANSAXLE&Title=Subaru-Legacy-3.6R%20Premium-H6-3.6-GAS-OEM-Parts Just thought I'd leave this here. Have you confirmed fitment by phone? I wonder if someone messed up and put 3.6 instead of 2.5GT? And, assuming it does fit, what other parts would we need? Yes, I can hunt them down through the 2.5GT stuff, but what else is there specific to the 3.6? Interesting find if it turns out to be true. To Perscitus: YES, I friggin' need this! "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Intake Manifold: 14001AB880 Intake Manifold Gasket: 14035AA460 (need 6?) Throttle Body: 16112AA320 https://www.parts.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=store.PartInfo&PartNumber=14001AB880&VehicleID=378665&diagram=7526295&Title%3D%2D3%2E6%2DLITER%2DINTAKE%2DMANIFOLD http://sspparts.com/buy-used/2009-Subaru-LEGACY-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-AT-P-14001AB880/13804-1 http://sspparts.com/buy-used/2012-Subaru-Outback-Legacy-INTAKE-MANIFOLD-AT-P-14001AB880/6681-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJMajickMan Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 Scrubbing Bubbles! Ideally the 'flavor' that starts blue when sprayed and turns white. It's also great for engine bay cleaning as it will not harm out aluminum blocks, timing chain covers, etc. https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcQcBptaKFEtoPmxEp5hoXHiM1toXkVrTLJFZYAnu3J-xdEeol-Y&usqp=CAY Did I mention pics?! Pics, IDs, Pics Pics Pics Holy price shock! Don't tell us you need one. I don't "need" it but 6 speed manual transmission listed under parts for our 3.6. Further searching of the part number shows it as the 2.5i model transmission on other sites. But Parts.com also lists clutch parts so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aeterna Posted February 10, 2015 Share Posted February 10, 2015 http://www.quickmeme.com/img/70/70d9775a4cfb1cc8116c47e3d6559cbe40c702543956c5d162c52ede8ee6c945.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Perscitus Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 Fredrik, you got the bolt-on kind right? Looks like thats the 'right' one for our application. Check out this thread, you will see some of the DBW issues reported... but its nothing that cant be tuned out. I hope on our engines too. Last Jan they ran a great 30% off sale. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2499274 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 (edited) Fredrik, you got the bolt-on kind right? Looks like thats the 'right' one for our application. Check out this thread, you will see some of the DBW issues reported... but its nothing that cant be tuned out. I hope on our engines too. Last Jan they ran a great 30% off sale. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2499274 Yep, I have the bolt on kind. I don't think I am going to have any of the issues in that thread. In fact, I don't think there are going to be any issues at all. No check engine light...nothing. I took off the back plate from the boomba TB, and started to bolt it up to the intake manifold. Just couldn't get the other three bolts on there. Some measurements for you guys: Boomba TB bolt pattern is 64mm center to center. 3.6R intake manifold bolt pattern is 67mm center to center. Some measurements of the boomba TB: stockish opening at 66mm larger optional opening 74.5mm rear opening 65mm 3.6R intake manifold has a 68mm ID. Interstingly, when I measure my TB opening, it was also 68mm. I don't know by how much it tapers down. Perscitus measured 65mm. I will measure and compare the used 3.6 TB when it arrives...most likely Thursday or Friday. I'm pretty sure they sent me the correct intake manifold, but I have received the wrong struts in the past, so you never know. Edited February 11, 2015 by fredrik94087 "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golferdude1087 Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I remember reading somewhere that the AWD systems in the Manual and the Automatic were different. The manual used the 50-50 split (on the legacy minus the GT, spec B and, 3.0R MY 2008+) and the auto used a different setup which behaved more RWD oriented. I'm still a newbee at this so I just wanted to make sure I got my facts straight (they might not be) but are the core components to that system itself the same and the ECU needs reprogrammed or is there more to it? Or have I just misunderstood the whole thing? lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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