KNS Brakes Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Can we see some pics of what was required to fit the brackets and a list of what parts were used? We want to fix it if possible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone_Killer Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Basically the leading and trailing edges of the caliper must be shaved a small amount in order to accommodate the larger diameter rotor. (seen below) http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=167039&stc=1&d=1383673656 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNS Brakes Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 Ok good much better. The caliper is only designed for a 12" rotor so in order to get the pad down far enough to correctly hit the rotor annulus the larger diameter rotor gets close on those ends of the calipers. We almost nixed the idea because on our caliper it was close but not touching. I also just noticed you have the AL version of those calipers and we tested w/ the iron ones. So the AL ones apparently have a bit more meat in that area. Can you show how much material you removed? I was more concerned that the offset or centering was off or something. Calipers look great on there by the way. How do the brakes feel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TeriyakiBBS Posted November 5, 2013 Author Share Posted November 5, 2013 Brakes feel really good and has a firmer pedal feel than the stock calipers. I will take detailed photos this weekend for you if you would like. Please PM a good email to send you. The brackets are perfect and centered Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted January 6, 2014 Share Posted January 6, 2014 Is there a noticeable difference in stopping power after you swapped these? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Is there a noticeable difference in stopping power after you swapped these? These brakes are not about stopping power. If that is your goal, don't waste $, just stick with OEM. This setup will provide added feel, some fade resistance, and of course purty calipers. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 These brakes are not about stopping power. If that is your goal, don't waste $, just stick with OEM. This setup will provide added feel, some fade resistance, and of course purty calipers. Silly me, I thought brakes were all about stopping power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 Silly me, I thought brakes were all about stopping power I think your terminology or knowledge of braking systems may be a bit skewed. "Stopping Power" is fairly broad term. If you want more bite or more initial heat resistance, upgraded pads will be what you want even if you have smaller rotors etc. As was posted these upgrades will provide better pedal modulation and better heat fade. -mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 I think your terminology or knowledge of braking systems may be a bit skewed. "Stopping Power" is fairly broad term. If you want more bite or more initial heat resistance, upgraded pads will be what you want even if you have smaller rotors etc. As was posted these upgrades will provide better pedal modulation and better heat fade. -mike Perhaps I should've used stopping force, or are they capable of increasing negative longitudinal acceleration. I was not asking about initial bite, nor pedal feel or modulation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZP Installs Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 No additional force. I believe that is related to the master cylinder and piston bores. I'm sure KNS can explain it better than I though. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted January 7, 2014 Share Posted January 7, 2014 No additional force. I believe that is related to the master cylinder and piston bores. I'm sure KNS can explain it better than I though. Mike It would be interesting for someone to do a pre-post 60-0 mph stopping distance with these.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LatentWagen Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 It would be interesting for someone to do a pre-post 60-0 mph stopping distance with these.... The distances would be identical. The stock brakes have more than enough clamping force to lock up the wheels. Both setups can trigger ABS. A vehicle's stopping distance is limited by grip. That's mostly tires, and some suspension. LW's spec. B / YT / IG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thestratomaster Posted January 9, 2014 Share Posted January 9, 2014 The distances would be identical. The stock brakes have more than enough clamping force to lock up the wheels. Both setups can trigger ABS. A vehicle's stopping distance is limited by grip. That's mostly tires, and some suspension. Correct (almost entirely tire dependent), but if you have tires that weren't traction limited by the stock brakes or these brakes, there would likely be a difference for better or worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cone_Killer Posted January 10, 2014 Share Posted January 10, 2014 They create a very pleasant pedal feel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rougeben83 Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 The advantage of the z32 front caliper upgrade for you LGT guys would be: -pedal feel, especially with ss lines (4 piston, fixed design) -ability to use some 16" wheels (if caliper fins are shaved down, using a +40 or lower offset wheel) -less sprung weight (nissan aluminum caliper weighs about 7lbs less than the cast iron LGT caliper) -wider and cheaper pad selection Disadvantage is -pad knockback (as described at length previously in this thread) -less pad SWEEP area You're keeping the same, beefy rotors, so your heat sink capacity and overall brake torque would remain unchanged... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 So, little FYI on the Z32 calipers. Don't want to separate them. The bolts are not replaceable from Nissan, and there is no torque given in the FSM. Likely because they're designed to yield over time. Proper rebuild method is here: Z32 Caliper Rebuild Also, they're called out as 30mm Z32 calipers. But for ease of searching, they're any year TT caliper, or 1991+ NA calipers. The iron calipers were implemented in 1993 to reduce brake fade due to caliper heat soak. I didn't care, and wanted the lighter aluminum ones when I did mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted April 2, 2014 Share Posted April 2, 2014 Oh, and what about the rears? Can we use WRX calipers for the rear? I'm considering doing this at some point Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Sooner than later, the stock LGT calipers suck wangdoodlers. Second set with frozen pistons in just over a year. Anyone know about using either the Z rear calipers or the WRX rear calipers, and does anyone make a kit? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KNS Brakes Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Sooner than later, the stock LGT calipers suck wangdoodlers. Second set with frozen pistons in just over a year. Anyone know about using either the Z rear calipers or the WRX rear calipers, and does anyone make a kit? The Z rear calipers will bolt on with our v1.1 bracket but we have not found a rotor to work with it. You can certainly do the 06-07 FHI WRX rear calipers, for that you'll need our version 1.1 bracket and the calipers, you can use your stock rear rotors. -Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTDogg MA Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Thanks, Project added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fabius Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 would anyone really know the difference between the Z32 calipers and the R32 calipers? they are supposedly different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDZ32 Posted January 30, 2015 Share Posted January 30, 2015 would anyone really know the difference between the Z32 calipers and the R32 calipers? they are supposedly different. They are exactly the same in every way except the R32 calipers are slight taller, Z32 calipers are 3 and 15/16 inches and the R32 calipers, I believe are 4 and 2/16 inches. This and the fact that R32 brakes came this ugly silver color are the only two differences. I'm a Z32 guy, so I know wayyy more about Nissans than Subarus Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amason Posted August 11, 2017 Share Posted August 11, 2017 My install experience: They went together just fine, but I had to grind a fair bit off the front (the whole logo, and then some) to get them to clear stock rims (and not by very much, maybe 1-2mm, but so far nothing stuck in there after a fair bit of gravel driving and a couple of winters, maybe because it's such a small space). Pedal feel much improved, and no more mucking with stuck sliders despite annual servicing. Worth it for that alone . -- Andy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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