TeriyakiBBS

Will I need to get the Spec B specific shift linkage or will 08+ STi linkage work?

Good info and thanks for Help, idea for the driveshaft I can use? Sedan 5eat?

I am about to pick up a 06 STi Tranny but here is my issues. The center diff is toast and I'll have to get a replacement. I don't care about DCCD so I am looking at getting a Spec B viscous center LSD. How much do those run? Also I am wanting to keep it easy with an R160 rear and source a WRX 3.54 FD Dif and keep my rear axels. Will getting a Spec B center diff affect this and what are my driveshaft options? Is there anything else I would need to complete the swap? I understand I'm going to get a 6speed clutch and flywheel. Thanks guys

Please let me know! I love the results and can't wait to get mine. S402 FTW

Correction I see my name when should I send my grill in?

I am running Nissan Z32 Calipers so I'm not stressed on clearence

I am going to have my BBS CKs powdercoated. I am really considering picking up a cheap set of 05-07 STi BBS 17x8 +55 and run some MachV 15mm Conversion spacers. I want to run 255/40/17 on them for that meaty look. I have also looked at the new Enkei RS05RR in 18x8.5 +43 with 245/35/18.

BNGUYENBB6: do you have a side profile? how much camber and fender rolling did you do? offset of the wheels?

I understand that its hard to fit some aggressive fitment under the fenders of LGTs. Lets post up some fitment specs of people that have pushed the limits. I know there is a "stance" thread which I love but this is different. I am considering going a little more aggressive with my wheel and tire setup. I have 18x8 +35 BBS CK 235/40/18 Conti DWs I'm looking at 18x9 +45ish with a 245 or 255 http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/CA84C4B1-5680-4E41-8A4E-D43DFAAF22A8_zps6x1yxuwz.jpg My old car I had Work Emotion XD9 18x10 +18 with 225/35/18 http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/0c1e5634.jpg I later switch to Enkei RPF1 18x9.5 +15 with 265/35/18 http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/b3ebbd8b.jpg

did you upgrade your FPR to aftermarket or 04-07 STi? or just running the stock FPR? Thanks

Bbs ck

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It will be easier, I would not recommend doing if the tail shaft is on because so much crap is in the way

Yes of course, anything to help out the community. Can it be a sticky or does it have to reach a certain post count?

I understand how you feel bro, My ex-wife decided that she wanted to get frisky with someone else while I was doing work overseas. I was nice enough to give her my house that I bought and her car so she could take care of my daughter but the only thing I got out of the mariage was the LGT and child support...yay. But I now live downtown in CA with lots of fish so its not so bad. If you ever want to relieve some stress just let me know and take a trip out here.

I would find a built block on nasioc or just go through EFI. You can swap blocks yourself with basic tools so I say save money and DIY.

This is doable with jackstands BUT I would only do it if you had a whole weekend to work on it. With the lift and power tools it took around 3 hours with lunch and smoke brakes. You are right, I would wait safely for 24hours just to make sure you dont break the seal.

Thanks man, I am working on a new write up for all of the Samco stuff too Good, if you have any other questions please ask

I'll try Extra-S next time

Yes my bearing did not explode but they were warn for sure. There was small chips and divets on the bearing races and lots of play on the bearings themselves

CLEAN EVERYTHING! The diff, transfer gears, and the case/cover. Use scotchbrite where the case will mount. Make sure you install the new bearing race back into the transfer case up in the corner and also in the tail cover with the adjusting washer. Place the center diff back into the transfer case. Install the snap ring back on transfer drive gear and install the gear back on the tail cover using the allen bolts. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image32_zpsb6dd5451.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image33_zpsb57471d7.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image34_zps2b8f5808.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image35_zps9b49b527.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image36_zps88fb1275.jpeg Now use the liquid gasket (HONDABOND LOL) and make sure you install a nice clean bead around the case. Bolt back the 9 bolts to hold the cover to the case and the 3 bolts that hold the downpipe bracket. Punch the roll pin back in and also install the shift linkage back on. Attach the crossmember with the 2 bolts to the tranny and 6 bolts to the car. Slide the driveshaft back onto the snout and bolt on the 2 bolts for the center driveshaft mount and 4 bolts to the rear diff. Install the heat shield and bolt the downpipe back onto the turbo and exhaust. 5 bolts to the turbo and 2 spring bolts to the exhaust. Plug the 02 Sensor back in and make sure everything is tight! http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image37_zpsdbf788e6.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image38_zpsfdc6fc8f.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image39_zpsf008f623.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image40_zps2573078f.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image41_zps2b3dedf5.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image42_zpsa1722197.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image43_zpse1e9668e.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image44_zps0bb03374.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image45_zps67822f21.jpeg Now for the Transmission Gear Oil. Use all of the Redline, Pensoil, and 1 Castrol. Now use the last Castrol until the transmission is full. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image46_zpsc0dfc1ba.jpeg One thing to understand is Subaru updated their bearings over the years so dont get scared when you open the case up and notice that the 2 roll bearings are different. the roll bearing themselves are smaller and the bearing races are bigger but everything is a perfect fit I assure you. I did this swap because my transmission was getting louder and louder during accel and decel in all gears. While cruising it sounded like marbles were loose in the transfer case. NOW DID THIS HELP!? Yes! The transmission is still a little loud in 1st and 2nd gear but I hope this will help prevent my 5MT from exploding until I get an upgraded gearbox.

When the cover is removed the transfer drive gear and the transfer driven gear will most likely be attached to the tail cover. The center diff will also slide out with no issues as well. In the transfer case up toward the top there is a ring called a Bearing Race that needs to be removed. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image17_zpsec716823.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image18_zps08c41c8a.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image19_zps920c8814.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image20_zpsad7f7856.jpeg When looking at the Tail Cover the transfer driven gear can be a removed easily and you will have to remove the bearing race from that as well, make sure you pay attention because there is an adjusting washer that sits under the bearing race. The bearing races will be replaced with the new roll bearings but the adjusting washer will not be replaced and will have to be placed back underneath the new bearing race. the transfer drive gear will need the 4 allen head bolts removed before you can remove the shaft. On the transfer drive gear there is a snap ring that sits on the on the cover side of the bearing, this will need to be removed before the bearing can be pressed off. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image21_zpsb4a1431b.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image22_zpsbd7a2380.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image23_zps9317a857.jpeg Bearing splitters and a press are key to removing all of the bearings safely. I do not recommend anything else. The 2 Roll Bearings go on the transfer driven gear, the Ball Bearing that is attached to the cover with allen bolts goes on the transfer drive gear. The Radial Ball Bearing is pressed onto the center differential intself. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image24_zps014188b2.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image25_zps48ffce48.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image26_zps29f8d64f.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image27_zpsefb11977.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image28_zpseb581eb4.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image29_zpsa04877bd.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image30_zpsc3a56b96.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image31_zpsc0f0246b.jpeg

Well this is my write up for swaping all the bearing inside the transfer case. I am not really considering this a DIY because its not as detailed as it should be but it has a good base to work from if your already mechanically inclined. I am not a trained mechanic but I love getting my hands dirty whenever I get the chance so myself and others can learn from it. I am a garage guy at heart but every opportunity I have the chance to not work on the car with 3ft of clearence I take it lol. A close friend of mine co-owns a shop nearby and he decided the best way to do this is with a lift and power tools.....I could not say no. Though you can do this with hand tools and a jack with jack stands it would probably add another 2 or 3 hours to an already 3 hour job. To start off I would get everything you would need for the job, OIL and any special tools. I decided to do the oil change so I went to O'Reilly and picked up 5 gallons of Shell Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic for $85 with two free Bosch oil filters, YAY! Also I picked up the Transmission Cocktail Gear Oil I will be using for the swap. 2 Castrol Hypoy C, 1 Pensoil Syncromesh, and 1 Redline Shockproof. I have seen great results from this mix but I will be switching to Extra-S next time. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image-11_zps1f137bc6.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image1_zps59ea044d.jpeg These are the 4 Bearings you will have to purchase from Subaru, I bought everything for $175. You will also need some Hi-Temp Silicone Liquid Gasket and a T70 Bit for the transmission drain plug. When You get everything put the LGT on the lift (or Jackstands) Ball Bearing 806230170 Radial Ball Bearing 806255010 Roll Bearing 806322080 Roll Bearing 806330120 $175 T70 $5 Liquid Gasket $5 http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image2_zps7e9d38e0.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image3_zpsdf7757e4.jpeg Remove the top mount intercooler and the turbo heat shield from the turbo. There are 5 bolts that hold the downpipe to the turbo and two spring bolts that hold the downpipe to the exhaust, you can unclip the the 02 Sensor plug and leave the sensor on the downpipe. Also remove the the heat shield as well the sits between the downpipe and driveshaft. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image4_zps6f0059ce.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image5_zps87c08860.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image7_zps3e4ff687.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image6_zpsae2c7165.jpeg Drain the fluid from the transmission and then disconnect the driveshaft. Make sure you check the plug for any crazy chunks of metal and it clean it if necessary. There are two driveshaft career bolts and 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft to the rear diff. Once all of those are removed you can slide the driveshaft out of the tail snout. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image9_zps10dd4479.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image10_zps56cb8f80.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image8_zps79d0ba3d.jpeg Remove the Transmission Crossmember. There are 6 bolts that hold the crossmember to the car and 2 bolts that hold the crossmember to the transmission. (This would be a good time to install new whiteline crossmember bushings). http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image11_zpsd5573dee.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image12_zps2da113e2.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image13_zpse9889a3f.jpeg Disconnect the shifter linkage from the transmission and knock the roll pin out with a hammer and punch. (This would be a good time to install some Kartboy Shifter Bushings or if you already have them regrease them). http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image14_zpsda4429c7.jpeg Remove the 3 bolts that hold the downpipe hanger off the tailshaft cover and then remove the 9 bolts that hold the cover itself. Make sure you have a pan ready to capture the remaining transmission oil that will come out. http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image15_zpsd821d014.jpeg http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p318/FLCLgibson1968/image16_zps1f0b6a25.jpeg

That Subaru Sport Bumper is on point!

Worst wheel design ever! Someone should slap the guy at STi for That mistake