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Super Suby gets an ej22t?


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For simplicity and my lack of knowledge I chose a WRX ecu. I found a complete wiring harness and ecu for $250 (not bad). An STi ecu would work as well as long as you got the harness, proper heads and intake mani. Megasquirt is pretty powerful and inexpensive but you'd know your stuff if you got it to work.

 

25D heads would be sweet. Pretty easy to find and fairly cheap. It took me a while to find a nice set of 205 heads for a decent price.

 

So get it to run with the wrx ecu... Then tune with whatever you would tune that modern ecu with? That makes pretty good sense! (Firewall forward, would be modernish engine management?)

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Picked up some OZ Prodrive P1's for $550. One has a little curb rash, but I'll sand it smooth and paint to match. Came with 225/45 17 goodyear eagle all seasons. I like how they look!i'll post more pics when I get a chance!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/19/gyhy3ahe.jpg
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Couple of updates...

 

Don't know why it lasted as long as it did, but when I changed my bad trans in my car last weekend, I found out that it was an outback tranny.(4.11:1) after counting the rear diff ratio about 8 times to make sure that IT was indeed a 3.9:1, I decided that I was ok to put in the 3.9:1 tranny I had bought. About 300 happy miles on it so far, and no chirping, squealing, bind, etc. Of course, I didn't seem to have that with the old one either, but it did go bad, so....???

 

I got the lugs in for my Oz Prodrives from Luke at the tire rack, ($1 a piece brand new- from a thread on nasioc) so I mounted those tonight.

 

This tire size works good, but with a good bit of weight in the back (200#s probably?) and some hard turning to the drivers side, the back tire rubs a little on the rear passenger fenderwell. I think that strut is totally shot though, so that is probably the reason. It take some VERY fast, tight cornering to get it to rub on the rear drivers side. I will give an update on fitment after I put my wrx struts on.

Here's a pic:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/atezamu8.jpg

 

I also did an easy DIY mod I should have done a long time ago- a factory tach!

 

Pull four screws from the trim ring:

(No pic)

 

Unhook the cruise switch- and whatever other switches are mounted in your trim ring (rear defrost in my case), and then pull it out:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/use9aqaz.jpg

 

Undo the 4 screws holding the instrument cluster in- 2 higher, 2 lower:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/da3asyse.jpg

 

Unhook the wire connectors on the back. (3 at the top-back edge, 1 little one, back-center:

(No pic)

 

Pull out the cluster, and take the 2 screws out that hold the metal clips down that hold the face to the instrument panel:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/hyjajyhy.jpg

 

Unsnap the face off the IP. Bunch of little plastic tabs- just go easy, it comes apart pretty easy.

 

Pull the 3 screws from the back of the tach from the tach'd ip you picked up at the junk yard:http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/raqutady.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/u4urase8.jpg

 

Pull your blank plate from the original cluster:

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/ybe6a5yj.jpg

 

put the tach in it's place, making sure to put in the missing tach bulb from the junkyard ip, use the 3 screws to hold it in- and put it all back together!http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/6asy9a3y.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/26/2e2abe4y.jpg

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Hey guys-I'm searching madly, but I'm not finding info that I need. I may have found a very good deal on a a wrx ECU, and I'm trying to figure out whether I should pull the trigger or not.

 

Any quick input?

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It depends on what your head choice is. You can run 205 heads with that ecu but it can't run anything else because it needs the matching sensors and the wiring harness. It won't be able to run a stock 22T longblock.

 

Yeah- didn't think I could do the 22t as is with it, but without more time to research what all I would be able to make work, I decided to pass. It was ecu only anyway.

 

 

However... I scored some Perrin endlinks, a wrx intercooler, a wrx front swaybar, and last, but not least, an almost perfect set of wrx seats! All for $180! :D

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Your hybrid will consist of the following:

WRX car wiring harness merged with the Legacy car wiring harness.

EJ205 intake manifold.

EJ205 heads & crank gear on EJ22T block.

STi 10-11mm oil pump.

EJ205 water pump.

 

Am I missing something?

I'm a lover of hybrids & I've made 2 of my own.

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Your hybrid will consist of the following:

WRX car wiring harness merged with the Legacy car wiring harness.

EJ205 intake manifold.

EJ205 heads & crank gear on EJ22T block.

STi 10-11mm oil pump.

EJ205 water pump.

 

Am I missing something?

I'm a lover of hybrids & I've made 2 of my own.

 

How would this setup be as far as tunability? Are you saying to just use my current ecu? Or are you saying if I were to get an ecu from an 02-07 wrx?

 

I am going to have to do some research and figure out what cars/years the 205 came in. I'm not real familiar with them.

 

I'd be interested in reading about your builds! Are they written up anywhere?

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Wikipedia says:

 

EJ205

This engine series is used for non-Japanese marketed WRX models in the world market as of 1999. The Japanese WRX models use the EJ207 from 1999~2001, except the 5-door wagon which also uses the EJ205. After 2001, all WRXs use the EJ205, with an exception of the USDM models, which used the EJ205 until 2005. The EJ205 has an 8:1 compression ratio.

 

To identify an EJ205:

 

Coil on plug

idle air integrated into throttle body

Open deck block

Usage: Impreza WRX

 

99~01 (JDM Wagon Body only)

01~current (all JDM)including Forester Cross Sports and STI (9:1 compression ratio)

02~05 (USDM)

2005 only SAAB 9-2X AERO

99~current (all other markets)

NOTE: The Australian Spec MY00 EJ205 does not have coil on plug but can be identified from the VIN of the vehicle (if known) where the 10th digit will be Y (for year 2000) and the 6th Digit will be 8 (for the 2000yr/EJ205)

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