2006Specb122

These should be covered under the basic warranty or even the 100k extended warranty and should not be void because of minor modifications?

Is there any scheduled maintenance for the bearing or hub assembly on the LGT?

Some cars as you to repack hubs with grease after certain miles.

I've never seen anything for the subaru.

Also, how many miles do we expect to get from the bearings?

Just did this mothed and it took no more then 5 mins and that includes unbolting the 2 front bolts and putting them back in. Thanks this is way better then the ghetto 20 clicks.

Not sure how the 20 click method is "GHETTO."

It was put in by Subaru to give us the option of no chime.

I've been using it for years since the car was brand new.

Only time it stopped working was when the battery got old.

Changed out the battery and started working again the same day.

Never had a problem since.

stage 2 for me is 235whp on the dyno at DBtuned, the big gains were made in torque which went as high as 297wtq but on the final map sat at about 290wtq with peak being 3600rpm.

 

i can spin wheels up into 3rd

Hmmmm... makes me tempted to have Pual throw my legacy up on the dyno....

Stick with the 20 click method. It was put there by the factory.... and will not void the warranty.

If it stops working change your battery... works like a charm again!

Just wanted to help clear a couple of things up...

The car is exactly the same.

So you CAN use the blue stuff in the Pre-07 vehicles.

The problem is that most dealerships have not invested the money in a three chamber super clean flushing system.

Subaru doesn't want you using the super blue stuff and going 11 years before your next coolant change if you haven't taken every single drop of the old stuff out of the car.

So that is why they tell you it can't be used in older cars.

I asked my dealer specifically about the machine referenced in the tech bulletin and they admitted they did not have the machine yet.

In addition I think even if you use the super blue they lower the interval after first time you change coolant so it might not be worth it anyways.

The green stuff is good. It is concentrated and all you need is the ONE bottle and some distilled water from Walmart for $1.29.

Just went to the Subaru dealer this morning to get their "super coolant". My dealer says it's not for use in pre-'07 vehicles and tried to sell me a very overpriced jug of green. Didn't go for that.

By the way, the "blue" only comes in 50-50 pre-mix, AT $29.99 a GAL.!! I'm glad it's not "required" for my year. And I saw the little bottles of "HOLTS" cooling system sealer relabeled as Subie coolant conditioner.

Kudos to the member who caught that.

 

And I'm sick of trying to make sense of Subie's screwed up maint. sched.

I'm doing everything now at 30K:Oil & filter,brake fluid, Tranny & diff oils,coolant.

Maybe even plugs, though it runs good now(except in hot weather:mad:) All the inspections get done more frequently than required anyway. As a mechanic, I know what it means to catch things early.

and just look at my avatar... 140mph after I shot the picture...

car feels like new... super strong....

LOVE IT!

ok some explain to me how the tuning alliance works...do you jus tell them ur specific modifications and they make u a special map for those mods?? is it better then the maps that come with cobb??

YES, and Yes... to answer your questions quickly.

Talk to Mike.

Call, email, or visit his website.

He will gladly work with you.

good product and good price.

Yes they are better than the COBB maps.

And COBB refused to update their maps for the original Access Port when there was a dangerous mistake found in them.

Tuning Alliance offers a cheap fix....but if you have any mods you should just go for the custom tune for a few bucks more.

Awesome!

Were there two people in the car?

I was on Sierra College at about 10:00 am.

I was riding in a 2006 Spec B with 2008 Spec B Wheels....

this coudl be my first spot

Plus you can go to TUNING ALLIANCE or somewhere else for about $75 and have the tune customized for your setup......

They are supposed to be much safer as well.

hey thank you for all the information...im kinda new to the tuning part of my car..and yea the intake i heard isnt that great, now could i go get a drop in k and n nd b fine nd not have stage 1 or anything, also i have heard for the cobb acesss port that if u dont use a cobb turbo back it will not let the stage 2 be perfectly in tune, but i like the borla cbe and the cobb up and dp....

Yes you can just get the K&N without anything and be fine.

You will not get full effect of the Stage-2 setup without an aftermarket Turbo Back Exhaust.

It doesn't have to be the COBB brand.

For the first few years they didn't even have the COBB exhuast system.

I probably would have tried it but they didn't make one when I bought my setup.

I ended up with a nice borla setup that I just LOVE!

I would never go back.

Help! I'm trying to install a firmware update for my AP in order to upload some new maps on it via the APmanager(the manager won't sync with my AP unless I do a firmware update). Whenever the APupdater tries to get things going it freezes at "Transferring updater step: 1/5".. I went to the COBB website and it told me to uninstall the AP from my car... did so and it's still freezing up at the same spot!

Sorry Blue Leg, I don't know the new AP... I still have my original!

I don't think I have EVER been spotted.

150k miles between the two 06 spec b's in the garage right now.

NEVER BEEN SPOTTED!

Can someone give me cliff notes .... simply explain why someone would want to filter down to 2 microns.

WHy add this to the LGT?

Hey Jimmy,

Most will probably advise on skipping the intake.

The original intake system is capable of producing stage 2 + power before it gives you any performance problems.

I just use a K&N drop in panel filter which I would recommend.

If I were you.... my first mods would be accessport stage 1.

Then move into some aftermarket exhaust.

I also can't stand the feel of the stock shifter anymore.

We have two cars in our family and I have the Cobb double adjustable shifter and whenever I drive the other spec b the shifter feels 10 feet tall now!

SO I would consider that as well.

The shifter is something you can have fun with and not break the bank.

Borla makes a great quality Catback exhaust system that is also easy to install.

Later on down the road if you want to jump into stage2 go with a good Downpipe and Uppipe.

I went with Cobb for both.

The aftermarket intake systems can be difficult to tune properly and can even do more harm than good in some cases.

Have fun and enjoy the car!

i am looking to get a intake for my car, but do u need a tune? and further down road looking to get a cobb acessport.

SILLY question.....

BUT..... Does anyone know if the Cobb AP V1 can be used as a CEL code scanner on other vehicles besides the Subaru?

Really? An tight as you could? For your sake I hope you are really weak and couldn't turn them more than a turn and a half or 2 turns...

Otherwise you gonna have big issues later on...

Didn't want to leave them too loose.

I read about the problems... does not sound fun if they are too tight.

But like I said... reasonable force and made them TIGHT.

I didn't lean over the wrench and put all my wait into it.

I was on my knees for 90% of the entire job anyways...

Probably over torque. Hopefully not enough to make permanent damage.

Here are the spark plugs after 60,000 miles.

Most of those miles were stage 2 cobb map.

Just switched to Stage2 custom Tuning Alliance map after spark plug change and other 60k service was complete.

Also notice the box that the spark plugs came in.

This is the only way to go IMHO. Reasonable price.

Pre-gapped and made specifically for subaru by NGK.

Best part they are usually in stock.

I finished my spark plug change last week.

At first I was a little nervous because the idle was terrible.

I have never had a problem with idle in the 3 years since the car was new.

I changed the plugs because I hit 60,000 miles and not because I thought the plugs were going bad. Car was running great before.

So to have the car shaking right after had me thinking I made a mistake.

But I took my time and did what I thought was a very good job.

I believe the rough idle was just a result of the ECU being reset.

It went away within the first day driving the car.

Since then the car has been very strong and feels like new.

I even ran into a red ferrari and my passenger was completely blown away that the $200k exotic could only pull 3/4 of a car length on me.

(this was done on a private road of course)

The only thing I was concerned with was how tight the spark plugs should be. I later read some hints about 1/2 to 3/4 turn past making contact.

Too late though. I just made them as tight as I could without jumping on the ratchet. With the space available I don't see how I could fit a torque wrench. I agree with the last post in the fact that I did not feel comfortable cranking down on anything with the wobble or universal joint.

I made things work but could have used a 2" extension. (I couldn't find that anywhere.) But with the 3" and beyond I was able to make things work.

Maybe even 1" would be useful if it could be found.

As an encouragement to all of you out there considering doing this yourself this was one of the EASIEST things I've done for the car.

It just takes time. Be patient, and get the right tools.

I made a list and made sure I wasn't lacking when I started.

I took out the battery and the air intake system completely before starting.

Took my time and did things right.

With all the tips I read while on the fourms lately I never really got stuck on anything.

I did have to use some pliers to carefully remove the spark plug socket a few times.

I never had ANY trouble removing the coil packs but I think that is because I read all the tips first.

Rotate 180 and it came right out and went right back on the FIRST TIME.

I'll be doing it again as we have two spec b's in the family so I'll let you know if I am much faster the second time around.

There were no padding to remove along the spark plug area so that wasn't an issue for me.

Good Luck!

PICS TO FOLLOW.... please comment on the spark plug pictures.

Hmmm... It sounds like you are using the spark plugs that are designed for the NON TURBO Legacy....

you might want to check that....

Ugh just finished doing mine. Old plugs with 52k looked good as far as I can tell. My biggest problem was the plug socket became really stuck on the newly installed plug on the passenger side rear. I spent 25 minutes with trying to get the socket off the plug. My other major problem is that I did not any appopriate 2" extension and had to use a universal where a 2" extension would have been MUCH easier to work with for plug removal and install. I think a 2" extension is key.

 

It took me 3 hours including battery and intake removal and reinstall. Started engine and took it for a drive. No detectable difference from before, which is a good thing, I suppose. I put in the NGK 6619's (LFR6AIX-11).

wow, sorry to hear that....

I've never heard of that happening....

did you fix it?

Is this a 96?

so I did my plugs around 4k ago... plug 2 was wicked stuck, and recently it blew out of the engine and stripped.

I didn't check the gappage .... oh well btw, I found that the 1/4 socket wrench thing .. is a must.

picture?

exactly what "THING" is a must...

I am getting the tools ready to do this!

My idea was correct.... turns out if your car is no longer accepting the 20 click method it is probably due to your battery.

I had the original battery in the car.

20 click method worked when I first bought my new car with zero miles.

Worked for a year or 2. Then it would not retain the 20 click method.

Almost started tearing wires apart but then decided to buy a new battery.

20 click method worked and has stayed active since...

so if the battery gets old it starts to loose memory functions... my guess...

20 click method worked well in the past - but wont stick for more than a day now.

 

Pulled this plug from the rear - seat all the way up and back all the way up.

 

Works like a charm!!!!

 

Thanks, Ben