samuel082799

I'm not running out of maf. I double stacked the o rings from the filter to the pump if thats what you are talking about Right now I have my egt sensor wired into my tgv, but I hardly log it so I will be switching over to a fuel pressure sensor. So if I pull the vacuum reference line off of the fpr I should see 43.5 if properly adjusted? With the line on it should be around 34 psi at idle? I'm definitely interested in looking into the above fuel pressure statement, and i will check to see if my adjustment fixed it but I will likely pull the pump again to check the o rings. I thought since the injectors are flow tested at 43.5 psi thats what they should be set to at idle. Hopefully you can go a little more in depth on this subject Thank you Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

So I have a new built motor, I'm doing the tuning myself. I'm having an issue where my afrs are lean under wide open throttle. I suspect the problem is the fuel pressure dropping off up top. Fuel system mods include: Dw 1200cc injectors Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator Aem 325lph fuel pump with a new filter I have 1500 miles on this set up with no issues, all of the sudden I'm not hitting my target afr up top. I have a gauge on the fuel pressure regulator but I can log it so I can only see it at idle. I had it set at 43.5 psi at idle but I've been noticing it goes lower sometimes. I re adjusted it to 43.5 after a drive (it was at 39 at idle) I haven't tried it out yet. I looked for boost leaks and I don't see anything obvious so I'm going to take another in depth look. The only reason I can think of is that maybe the fpr loosened up or broke in after the 1500 miles and I just needed to re adjust the fuel pressure. I'll go out and test it and see if that was it, but I'm hoping someone else might be able to give me some insight. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I haven't had any pop up in the junkyard yet, so I'm still waiting Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Bump Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

So I've been working on a tune for my 2005 OBXT for about a month now, it's got a built long block with cams and 1200cc injectors. Everything I've done so far is good I'm at the point where I have the fueling table done and I'm ready to tune timing. I have a couple of concerns/questions that I can hopefully get answered. So I can do WOT pulls no knock to get to that though I had to lower the timing quite a bit from oem which could be for a variety of reasons. Its been pretty hot lately and I've been tuning in 80 degree weather because that is as low as its getting in socal. Another reason is California 91 ain't to good. Also I'm running 18psi but my timing is still lower than other tunes i have looked at with the same boost. It may also be intercooler efficiency since my stock intercooler has a decent amount of bent fins but I will be getting a new one soon. Does it sound normal to have to lower timing by 6 to 8 degrees? My main question is the only places I am seeing knock now is on the freeway cruising in open loop, and transient areas. I logged my commute to and from school and I seen quite a bit of knock sum. Half of the events didn't even trigger a correction so I probably don't need to worry about those because they were at a consistent rpm steady throttle. The other knock i see is when I let off the throttle and engine break then go back to cruise throttle area quickly it will knock. I think this is because of my tip in enrichment but I could be wrong. I halved my tip in to start because of the bigger injectors, from there I added 5% but that didn't really seem to fix the issue. Before I added 5 percent I couldn't see a lean dip on my wide band, now I can see it go lean for a second then back down. In my log I don't know what to consider lag in the wideband and what is an actual fuel discrepancy. Is this transient knock something to worry about? I can post log files but they ar big, I use mega log viewer so it is easy to look through a lot of data. Thanks Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I would get some ngk plugs. Old or bad plugs will definitely have an affect on how the care runs. It seems like you are on the right track, compression looks good, I would check the other cylinders too while you are doing plugs Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I was talking about these ones, welding the new ear to the old ear so it would be like a solid extension of the caliper. Stoptech stainless steel braided lines won't work? How far out do you think you are from a finished product? I would be interested in buying one of the timing works out. It looks like you got a pretty good setup going Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

That looks really good, I'm wondering if you could weld the tab onto the caliper to make it one piece . I would feel alot better about it's rigidity that way. Do you plan on selling these when you get them figured out? What software are you using? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I would log feedback knock correction instead of knock sums. Knock sum just count how many times the engine reads knock but alot of times it is just noise. Feedback knock correction will show you when and how much timing is pulled if the engine detects significant knock. If your FBKC is at 0 than your not really knocking. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Sounds like you got a plan [emoji106] Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

That doesn't seem like enough misfire on 4 to worry about, when I got ringland failure I got it on 2 at first and it was missfiring bad and would actually throw a code for it every once in a while. Then cylinder 4 went soon after and the car would idle so ruff, you didn't need a computer to know something was wrong [emoji23]. As far as the vacuum goes my boost guage measures boost in psi and vacuum in in.Hg and at idle it sits at 20 in.Hg. To my knowledge DAM is the same as IAM. Dynamic advanced multiplier vs ignition advanced multiplier. In your ecu/tune there are two ignition tables there is primarily ignition timing, and a knock control table. Your base timing table for the most part is 6 degrees of timing shy from the max the engine runs during normal operation. And the knock control table has the extra 6 degrees in it. So when you first start your car your IAM or DAM should be at 0.500 meaning that is multiplying the value in your knock control table by .5 so it is adding in 3 degrees of timing vs the 6 it can add in. Once the engine operates for a little while and it doesn't see any knock the DAM goes to 1 meaning it is adding in that full table of timing. If a serious knock event occurs (more than 3 knock sums at once) it will automatically drop the IAM to .5 in order to pull timing and keep the engine from getting damaged from continuous knock. Then if the car sees no knock after a little while it will go to .75 and then 1 if everything is good. I figured I would explain why it is that you should be looking at your DAM or IAM, so you know that for some reason your car is running as little timing as it can due to detonation or knock. Idk if the turbo would have anything to do with that directly. When my turbo was blown I could remove my intercooler and see a puddle of oil in my throttle body coupler (I'll put a picture) I had an AOS at the time so the oil was definitely coming from the turbo. That would be an easy way to check your turbo health is to check for oil there. If there is no oil I wouldn't worry so much about the turbo. If there is oil getting into the combustion chamber that will lower the octane causing pre detonation, but this could also be caused by bad gas. If you really want a good idea of your engine health you should do a compression or leak down test. If you have ringland failure you will have low compression on that cylinder. If it's valves you will have no compression. I have a video on compression test if you want to see how I did it I can post the link Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

So car was added August 6th today is the 7th I went to the junkyard as soon as they opened and the damn Calipers were already gone. Idk how they are gone in less than a day. It seems like someone who probably lives closer than I do is pulling them as soon as they come in. There are guys that go there to look for tires everyday, I wouldn't be surprised if it is one of them. Idk if I'm going to be able to get any unless I get lucky Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Just checked my junkyard website and a 2005 Touareg V8 just got added today so I'm going to go first thing in the morning and hopefully it still has the calipers Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I think a mock up bracket could easily be welded up as a proof of concept. I just need to get my hands on some calipers

I believe the 17z calipers are not threaded, with a bracket design I don't think it would be to hard to tap threads into the caliper hole. I'm still curious to see if elongating the holes would work, it seems to have worked pretty well for the Evo guys(I know it's not the same car but it doesn't look like the holes are that far off on our cars either) Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Ok, for some reason I thought the rotor was smaller. My bad. Also idk if you looked at the Evo thread I linked earlier about this brake swap, he elongated the holes on the caliper so it could bolt up. From the picture it doesn't seem that far off. Do you think you can get a measurement of how far off the bolt pattern are? If the holes only need to be slightly elongated like the Evo swap there may be no need for a bracket and still have plenty of meat on the caliper ears Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Glad to see someone actually making progress on it. What year sti are those rotors from, and are they 5 by 100? Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I have a lowered OBXT so I got the tiny brakes, and it doesn't stop as good as it accelerates [emoji23] Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

I use the two 90 degree picks, I have a spare connector and line for the feed line but I'm pretty sure they are the same length. I had a problem with mine not clicking back on so i sprayed a little WD40 on the male side and i slid on like butter. Orielys also sells a Dorman 5/16 fuel line quick disconnect for like $7 you can just get that and some fuel line and a clamp for probably a little over $10. those connectors are made for the fuel pump end, but they are much easier to remove than the Subaru ones if you plan on doing a lot of fuel system work. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/dorman-oe-solutions-3387/performance-16477/engine---brake-plumbing-16551/fuel-management-16721/fuel-line-adapters-18746/16b18e9caba6/dorman-oe-solutions-5-16-inch-straight-quick-connector/800080/4257345

A blown turbo will still make a boost. My car had a severely blown turbo, about 1/4" play and fins contacting the housing as well as a cracked housing by the wastegate opening and it still made 11 pounds of boost. The only thing i can say for knowing if your turbo is blown is noise. If I revved my car to 2000 rpm and held it for a second and let off i could hear a rattle as the RPMs dropped. im thinking that sound was the turbo wheels hiting the housing I dont know if you filled the car up with gas before the problem happened, but a bad batch of gas would cause it to pull timing due to excesive knock from a lower octain fuel I dont know what parameters you can view on Cobb but if you look at your feedback knock correction that will tell you if your car is pulling timing. It would alos beworth looking at your IAM (Ignition Advanced Multiplier) If everything is normal when the car is at operating temp your IAM should be 1

Hopefully another one pops up soon cause I'm really curious to see how it fits Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

It seems to be a common swap for the euro community. I think I'm going to be checking the inventory at the junkyard every day until I find some and go there that day. I didn't think they would be that popular. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

The only c6 that have 6 pistons at the Z06 unless someone optioned it out. I just got back from the junkyard and the Touareg that was in there for not even a week brakes were already gone. So I'm going to have to keep my eye on the website and jump on it when one gets in there. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

2004 and earlier vw Touareg had 6 piston, 2005 and newer most came with 4 piston brembos. I have no idea exactly what needs to be cut off, I'll try to take a look when I get the Calipers. The cost savings is that to buy c6 Z06 Calipers online, weather new or remanufactured your looking at $350 on the cheap end verses VW Touareg that you can very easily find in your local junkyard and get the brembos at junkyard prices which for me is $25 each. I'm not saying that Z06 brakes are hard to find, they are just hard to find cheap compared to the Touareg brembos you can easily find and pay practically nothing for. All of the brake swap kits for our cars uses the 2004 sti rotor because it seems to be the largest rotor that Subaru made with the 5 x100 bolt pattern. I'm sure that it will with the Touareg Calipers I'm going to be running 18 when I do the swap eventually, but I will check the 17 for fitment as well. I also read a thread were someone put these on an Evo with very little modification I link it hear so y'all can take a look https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-how-tos-installations/684563-simple-6-pot-brake-setup.html Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

Yeah they are cheaper, and it's really hard to find a Z06 In the junkyard. Calipers sell for $25 at my local junkyard Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk