samuel082799

Mishimoto Turbo Inlet Sold Bump, all prices are obo make me an offer!

Prices Lowered Bump!

Cleaning out my storage, and have some parts I no longer need that I would like to get rid of. All prices are OBO and buyer pays for shipping. Mishimoto Turbo Inlet Used ~30k miles MMHOSE-SUB-08IH SOLD Powerflex Rear Subframe Bushings New PFR69-417 $100 I bought these and just never wanted to install them Crawford AOS V2 Used ~30k Miles S0720 $200 Stock Top Feed Fuel Rails with injectors (07-09 Legacy/Outback, 08-14 WRX) $50 Thanks Everyone!

What price are you looking to get for these?

The case code is TY757VWAAB

I will try to get that number for you later today I remember! I've been very busy with school and work so I haven't had time to edit and upload the 6-speed video yet so I'm not sure at this point. Hopefully by the end of the month but we will see.

I would cruise at 80 mph and rpm would be around 3300 if I recall correctly. It gears out at 140.

I Just did a 6 speed swap into my 2005 OBXT so I'm getting rid of some of the old parts. I would like to try and sell the transmission locally so i dont have to ship it. The transmission had ~180k miles on it, i turned the power up a bit too much and lost 3rd gear. I decided to rebuild the 5MT so i could still enjoy my car while i saved up for the 6 speed swap. When i rebuilt it i replaced 3rd and 4th gear and had 1st through 4th including the main shaft WPC treated to increase the strength of the gears and to reduce friction. I also replaced the main bearings on the drive/ main shaft. For having 180k miles everything in the transmission looked brand new. before i blew it up everything shifted good, no grinds or pop outs. After the rebuild It shifts even smoother from the WPC treatment and has since been proven at 380whp no issues. I have about 3k miles on the rebuild. Transmission also comes with some custom blast plates that i made, and a torque solutions solid brass shifter bushing. I also made a youtube video of the transmission rebuild: The transmission price includes the rear diff since the final drive is 4.44 its a bit hard to find the matching R160. I will also include the Group N transmission mount. I have no idea what to ask for this setup since there is nothing else like it out there so I'm asking $1500 OBO SOLD ACT Lightweight Flywheel ~15k miles (Great Condition) SOLD Spec Stage 2+ Clutch ~15k miles (Ok condition) SOLD Outback Rear Axles Miles Unknown (Good Condition) $50 OBO Outback Driveshaft 180k miles (Good Condition) $150 OBO I have a lot of other miscellaneous parts from the swap, like shifters linkages, outback crossmembers, and much more so just ask.

I returned it too the ebay seller I bought it from, thanks everyone for the help!

I bought it on ebay by accident so I'll probably just try to return it since it doesn't seem like it's going to sell here

Did usdm vehicles not come with the single zone climate control?

I have this JDM double din head unit bezel and single zone climate control module for sale. It is in excellent condition and comes which the correct hazard switch with no wear which is hard to find. Looking to get $300 plus shipping OBO.

The Widebody Kit: I'm on the fence about the idea of making the widebody kit to fit 285 tires on the car. I'm leaning towards the idea of just making a mold of the stock fender with some styling tweaks sot hat it is a functional flare without the metal on the inside to snag the tire on. this way I would be able to run 255 tires. The reason I am on the fence is that I am not sure that I can make it look good lol. I think a lot of widebody kits look terrible so I want to make something that looks like it belongs which is easier said than done. one of my friends recently got a 3d scanner so we have been working on getting the car scanned into CAD. That being said, if I can come up with a design in CAD that I like I will do the widebody, if not I will just make a mold of the stock fenders as I stated before. Fun Fact: The stock Front fenders for the Outback only weigh 7 pounds, so there is not much weight savings to be had, but the final carbon fiber part will probably weigh less than 2 pounds. Another project I am starting work on is making a custom front bumper. My idea is to take a 2005 STI bumper and graft it to a 2005 Outback bumper. I did a terrible photoshop of the idea, but you get the point. I have also acquired a 2005 outback, and 2005 Impreza bumper. I may also make the final product out of either carbon fiber or fiberglass. Ill attach some pictures, let me know what you think and stay tuned!

**Update** A lot has happened since my last post but I'm finally starting to move into the direction of making some more carbon fiber parts. I have had a lot of issues with my car this past year that I wanted to address before doing cosmetic stuff. Story Time!! I had my car very well sorted at the beginning of the year, but 320whp was not enough to beat some of those faster V8 boys so I decided to go big turbo. I got a Blouch 1.5 XTR 10 cm along with a Tomei UEL header, and a IBR fuel rail and line kit. As some of you may know all of these new performance parts turned my sorted car into a unsorted car with issues that need to be troubleshooted. After a lot of tuning I got everything working good on 91 octane and the car was making around 380 whp at 20 psi. Since the 91 tune was done the plan was to switch to e85 and begin optimizing it by adding timing and bumping boost up to 25 psi. So I filled up with e85 and without tuning anything, two pulls in I lost 3rd gear. seeing the power difference that e85 made on the stock turbo without any optimization, I estimate it was making around 420whp at the time of transmission failure. So I pulled the transmission and rebuilt it and got 1-4 gears WPC treated to give it a fighting chance. I then went back to 91 and have been running it like that ever since. This was just a band aid, I'm still shooting for 500whp so the next big project I'm working towards is a STI 6 speed swap. I plan to do this in December when I have a break from school. Next post will be update on the new projects I have in mind! I will post some video links and pictures here if you want more information:

I am doing a 6 speed swap into my 2005 Outback XT and I am looking for some spec b pieces parts to complete the swap. I will list the parts that I am looking for along with the part numbers so it will be easier to know what I am talking about. 1. Spec B Rear Axles in good shape 28421AG03B 2. Spec B Shift Linkages Shift Rod 35041AG020 Shift Stay 35031AG020 I am also doing the body spacer removal project on my outback so I also need: 3. Legacy GT Manual Transmission Crossmember Front 41011AE020 4. Legacy GT Manual Transmission Crossmember Rear 41011AE100 5. I may also be interested in some Spec B front control arms If you have anything else that may be helpful for this conversion let me know. Thanks everyone!

Ok sounds good 80 psi does seem pretty high, I don't know where the 10 psi per 1000 rpm. I guess If your car only revs to 6000 rpm it makes sense. Thanks everyone!

So today I installed an oil pump shim in hope that it would increase my max oil pressure at full operating temps. It didn't seem to change much of anything, maybe a couple psi higher but I'm still not sure that I'm comfortable with the pressure it's operating at. I have a built motor with stock clearance crank bearings and slightly oversized clearance on the rod bearings. I have a 11 mm oil pump and I am running motul 10w40 oil. At idle my oil pressure is 20 to 25 psi, cruise is around 60 to 70, and 8000rpm I'm only making about 60 to 65. I have heard that you should have 10 psi of oil pressure per 1000 rpm so ideally I would like to see 80 psi. I'm wondering if it would be worth it to run a thicker oil like 20w50 but idk if that would be to thick. Just looking for some advice on what I should do next.

So today I disabled the Closed loop fueling and the problem has gone away. This is leading me to believe that the issue may have something to do with an o2 sensor. When I installed my new header I put in a new denso O2 sensor because my original one was very stuck in my stock header. This is the link to the sensor I bought: https://www.autozone.com/engine-management/oxygen-sensor/p/denso-exact-fit-oxygen-sensor-234-9120/259928_0_0 When I log AF sensor 1 in romraider the values read match up with my AEM Wideband so I'm pretty sure the front is not the issue so I'm wondering if the rear o2 sensor is the problem. I'm just going to cruise around in open loop till i figure the problem out but is there any way that I can test the rear o2 sensor to see if that is my problem before I go buy a new one? I know I can set the correction range of the rear o2 sensor to zero so in theory it would disable the sensor but idk if the rear sensor can control other things that would cause the car to run rich.

**Problem Still Not Solved** I want to give a little more background so hopefully my problem might be better understood In April I installed a blouch 1.5xtr turbo, tomei uel header, and an IBR fuel rail and line setup. I tuned it up for the new setup on 91 octane and as best I can remember everything was working out fine. I switched to e85 and then I blew up my transmission so the car was down for about a month while I rebuilt the transmission. once the transmission was back in I ran through the rest of the e85 and went back to 91 so I wouldn't blow my transmission up again until I could get a 6 speed. when I switched back to 91 I started having issues were the car would run good some days and bad other days like it would become un tuned and then it would fix itself. As of recently the problem became worse so I decided to try and go through and re tune it the best I could. So i put the stock intake on and stock maf scaling table so that I could properly adjust the injector scaling and latency for the increased flow of the fuel rails because the stock rails were restricting the flow of my 1200cc injectors. once I finished that I put the KS Tech intake back on and tuned the maf sensor scaling and it was fine for the most part until what happened in the original post I made above. I don think water on the filter was the issue so i replaced the maf sensor and that didn't fix the problem so i decided to re tune the maf scaling thinking maybe i tuned it before with an air leak. all tuned it was running good and responding to the changes i made. let it sit for a week went to drive the car and the same exact issue is back. It runs about 15% rich at idle, cruise is okay just a little rich, and in boost it runs way rich and maxes out the Maf sensor. it normally idles at 1.22-1.24 V for the maf and today it was idling at 1.34 V and the maf maxed out so it seems like for whatever reason it is coming out of calibration. I dont really know what to do next, I'm kind of thinking that the injector latencies and scaling may be messed up for whatever reason. I have a couple of ideas for things to try but nothing based on any scientific conclusion so any advise on what to try next would be very helpful. Mod List: ej255 with 99.75mm Je forged pistons, Brian Crower Rods, STI Crank, Brian Crower stage 2 Cams, Valves, and double valve springs. Ks Tech Big maf intake, Mishimoto Turbo Inlet, Blouch 1.5xtr, MAC 3 port boost controller, Grimspeed TMIC, TGV Deletes, Tomei UEL Header, Megan Racing Catless downpipe, custom cat back exhaust IBR fuel rails and AN lines, E Flex Technologies flex fuel kit, Aeromotive FPR, Deatsch Works 1200cc injectors. when i installed the turbo and fuel rails I deleted the evap purge valve and capped the nipple on the turbo inlet so the tank vent is to atmosphere, idk if that affects anything.

Would just leaving it out in the sun take care of that? Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I have the ks tech big maf intake so it is open element but not a short ram hot air intake. I had it tuned so at wot it would be 0.75 lambda and the other day it was hitting 0.63 lambda and now it's a little closer at .71 lambda but it's still off. I'm probably going to do a leak test later but I still have a feeling the maf has something to do with it. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

So yesterday I drove my car and it was driving fine, im in the process of fine tuning the maf sensor scaling so I have closed loop fuel disabled. Everything was good then I washed the car and then it started to idle rich and got really rich at wot. It through a P0103 code for Maf high voltage. I did a data log when the code popped up and you can see the engine load suddenly increase along with the maf voltage. I have the maf properly scaled so it doesn't max out at wot so this isn't normal. Then today the car seems to be better but still a little richer than it was the other day. I'm wondering if the car wash had something to do with it but I didn't get anything wet around the maf sensor. I was thinking the maf could also be going out but idk. Hopefully someone can give me some ideas on what the problem could be. It's just weird to me that I can see such a big fluctuation without changing anything on the tune or the car. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Yeah, I have 1 inch spacers on the rear and .75 inch on the front. You might have to roll the fender a bit depending on your wheel setup but the fitment will be nice Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I recently blew 3rd gear on my 05 obxt while tuning for the new turbo. I estimate it was making a little over 400 whp when it blew. It wasn't from a hard shift either it was fully in gear flooring it and then kaboom 3rd gear delete. I'm eventually going to put a 6 speed in the car but I don't have the money for that at the moment so while I saved up I figured I would repair my 5MT and see if it will get me by till I can swap a 6 speed into it. The transmission has 180k miles on it and the last 20k have been aggressive with 320whp. Took it apart and everything was ok except 3rd gear obviously, but it didn't take any thing else out with it. So I sent out the 1-4 gears to get WPC treated to hopefully make them stronger. I'm wondering if anyone here has experience with WPC treatment or shot peening and can attest to the strength increase. I have heard of some people running 460whp for years on a 5 speed so I'm thinking fatigue was probably a big part of the failure. So I'm hoping with the new 3 and 4 as well as WPC treating them it will hold up. Hopefully someone here can give me an idea of how much stronger the wpc treatment will make the parts. Thanks, ill add some pictures of the carnage! Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Ok I'm going to go with an oem one, thanks for the advice everyone. I was surprised that the spec one was shot after 12k miles. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk