samuel082799

I had the conversation a while ago, but I took notes during our talk. I remember telling them it was a street car that would see the track on occasion and do canyons and autocross frequently. Its not a daily so the warm up doesn't really bother me. The conversation didn't mention cost, because that's not my main concern as much as protection and acceptability. I took my engine to them to get the cylinders bored and resurfaced, and then they told me all the parts, and tolerances I should use on the engine for what my goals are. They told me to do stock crank tolerance bearings and +1 rod bearings. If i remember correctly I told them boost would be around 20psi, and redline at 8000 rpm. My redline is not that high right now because there is no point with stock turbo, but the heads are built for it, and the rotating assembly is balanced. I'm just wondering if the 10w40 is going to provide enough protection under hard operation, and if this would warnt running a 20w50 oil. I know of some people who run 10w40 on the street and switch to 20w50 when they go on the track. My guess is that is why he mentioned 20w50. Is the psi im seeing with 10w40 normal for an engine with these clearances? I don't know what the oil pressure was stock, so I have nothing to go off of. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I have a 2005 subaru outback xt with an fresh built motor. Je 99.75 Forged pistons Brian crower forged rods Sti nitrated crankshaft 11mm oil pump King rod bearings clearance: 0.038mm Stock clearance king main bearings I think that is all the important information. Engine has 2000 miles on it, I used motul 10w40 break in oil for the first 3 oil changes (cam break in, 50 miles, 500 miles). After 500 miles I put motul 300v 10w40 in it. Outfront did my machine work and they recommended either 10w40 or 20w50, and motul is there brand of choice. Hot idle on my car after doing some spirited driving is at 12-13 psi oil pressure. Just cruising its up around 15-17 psi. I would like to see these numbers a little higher, especially once I start really beating on the car. I'm thinking of switching to running valvoline vr1 20w50 for a couple reasons. 1. Higher oil pressure (not sure what, but maybe someone could give me a ball park) 2. Cheap and I can get it at my local auto parts store vs motul which is like $40+ and I have to find it online. I know there are alot of oil threads out there, but I want to know for my particular situation if it would be beneficial to switch over to vr1. If there will be no ill effects of running 20w50 vr1 ill do it just because of the accessibility. Thanks Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I think I'm going to skip this modification for now because it's looking like there is alot more involved in it than I initially thought. With that is also potential problems. I went to the junkyard where there was an outback and legacy right next to each other which made it very convenient to compare parts. When I got there I realized that the front subframe where the motor mounts has spacers, and removing those would put the engine higher in the engine bay, and in turn require new transmission crossmember so there is no strain in the system. Where this concerns me is that my aftermarket downpipe is already close to my fire wall and if I raise it up it will probably hit, I also made some blast plates for my 5mt and im afraid by moving the transmission higher those plates will hit the tunnel. Where this leaves me is the front spacer removal will cause more problems than it fixes. I'm wondering if the rear spacers could be removed to correct the cv axle angle since they are way out of wack where the front axles are still pretty straight. So I'm thinking of sacrificing a little driveshaft angle for some better cv axle angle and just getting a whiteline bump steer correction kit for the front. Does anyone else think this approach will work? Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Looks great, im still searching for some calipers Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Does anyone know the answer to my question about the drive line components when the bosy spacers are removed? Has anyone removed the spacers without the other stuff? Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

When I had a broken ringland it was 125 on all cylinders except 2 being 50psi. I would just amount it to high mileage piston ring wear Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Ok cool thats what I thought Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

My car is already lowered on bc coilovers, and I have the lgt upper control arms, and whiteline lower control arms. So I plan on getting parts: 6,7,8,10,12,13,14,3,4,5 Reference to the picture below The other pics are of that braket I'm talking about. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Now before anyone says to read the official lowered outback thread, I have, but alot of it is from 2012 and most of the pictures are broken, from users no longer being on the forums. I was reading through the body spacer removal thread and there was a list of parts that you need to get from a lgt to correct the steering geometry. I feel like the drive shaft and transmission crossmember is a bit over kill. Your driveshaft may be at a less than ideal angle if you pull the spacer but it sure wont cause any damage or binding. Also there is a bracket that attaches the driver side to passenger side subframe and bolts it to the spare tire carrier. If the spacers are removed that brace or braket cant be used. Im guessing you can just add the spacers on the bottom instead of the top of the subframe so that the braket can still be used. So I'm trying to get a second opinion on my idea of the driveshaft and crossmember not being crucial. Also as far as fender trimming I've been told to cut the bottom roe of clips off the metal part of the fender and then to grind the plastic flare back to the lip so there isn't that flat part underneath. Is this correct? If not what is the correct way of doing this. I want to fix my camber, because I'm eating up the inside of tires pretty quick, and I just got a new set and I want them to last. Thanks I'll post some pictures of what I'm talking about in a minute. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

That code worked thanks Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Thanks ill give that a shot Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

**update** So I installed my fuel pressure sensor and all seems good except the readout in my romraider logger. The sensor i bought was from Amazon, because i didn't want to drop $100 on an aem sensor. The specs on thes sensor are the same as aem so I used there equation in my definition files, but the readout at idle says 2887.5 psi. I think that the cheap sensor i bought might be outputting the incorrect voltage to the computer. I wired it correctly unless they switched a power and analog wire. *<parameter id="P40" name="Fuel Pressure" desc="P40" ecubyteindex="13" ecubit="7" target="1"> * * * * * * * * * * <address>0x000034</address> * * * * * * * * * * <conversions> * * * * * * * * * * * * <conversion units="PSI" expr="(25*x)-12.50" format="0.00" /> * * * * * * * * * * </conversions> Here is the code I used, let me know if something is wrong. I had my egt sensor hooked up to this tgv before and it worked fine. I did some math and it seems that the sensor is outputting 115v at idle. I also used my peak value to calculate the actual psi, and peak pressure is 63.5 psi at 18 pounds of boost. Which is plus 20 psi from base fuel pressure, so it seems like the fpr is doing its job. I haven't had the lean issue occur yet since the re wire. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

So I got the fuel pump wiring done. Fuel pressure sensor is s not in yet, i had to buy a 90 degree adapter, so I'm waiting on that. I put the dw specs for latencies and scalar in and set the fuel pressure to 34psi, but it was way off. I was going to have to lower my scaler below 940cc which I know isn't right so I just set the pressure back to 43.5 at idle and went out driving. The car felt normal, it definitely seems like the fuel pump has more juice up top. Battery voltage was back to normal. 13.84 - 14.05 volts. I drove around a little bit and at one point my iam dropped to .875 which was odd because there was no knock correction or fine learning knock. Idk why the iam would drop in that case. So I went out and drove hard after doing 3rd gear wot to see if my afrs were correct and no knock was being recorded. I couldn't make the iam drop again which is weird because when it dropped i wasn't driving hard. Maybe it was just a fluke. Im going to get the fuel pressure sensor installed when that fitting comes in. I have a feeling that my problem will resurface, I still suspect something to be wrong with the alternator. If anyone knows what events tell the computer to trigger the IAM to drop, I would love to know. I get the knock event part of it, but I have a feeling there is more to it than that Thanks Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I think im going to test the voltage regulator on the alternator if its good, im going to through some new brushes and bearings if needed from subaru. If that doesn't work ill only be out a few bucks. If the voltage regulator is bad ill just buy a new alternator Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

If the alternator is the problem would i be able to get away with buying an auto zone remanufactured one or do i need to get an oem pump to be sure it will provide the voltage needed? Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I have the latencies 5% higher than the spec sheet so not much. If I were to take it to auto zone would they be able to tell me if the alternator is on its way out, or does it have to be worse? Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I'm wondering if maybe an alternator about to go out could be a problem as well. I doubt the wiring will do anything put it needs to be done at some point so I might as well do it now while I'm in there. I remember seeing a lower battery voltage when I looked at my learned values in romraider. Normally my battery voltage is 14 v without accessories On Friday my voltage was 12.56v without accessories like before. Could this be a possible cause for my lean condition, my latencies are probably not correct because my fuel pressure is wrong Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

The maf readings are dead on before and after the issue Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I also did some more research last night, idk all the ins and outs yet, but it seems like people are hardwiring the fuel pumps to the battery with a relay kit. The idea behind it is the stock wires don't supply enough amperage up top to allow optimal flow. But i feel like if that was the case the problem wouldn't happen all of the sudden. I could be wrong but ill look into hardwiring my pump because it is recommended for a big pump and big injectors. My injector duty cycle is 47% under wot so I'm not at the limits of my fuel system.im thinking maybe the pump could have broken in a little and now its just not enough amperage. I also went down a rabbit hole last night. I was looking at all my data logs to pinpoint when the issue started. On 9/8 my tune is solid, but I wanted to do some 4th and 5th gear lodging to make sure nothing wonky was happening in different load situations. So I did some 80-120 and 1 80-140 and my logs looked fine afrs were dead on. 9/9 probably the worst log i have seen 1st - 4th afr never hit target. 9/10 I thought the issue was caused by low fuel level in the tank so I filled up and it seemed to fix the problem for the rest of the nights driving. From then on the problem is back. Idk if the problem happening after a 140 pull is just coincidence but I pulled my intercooler, intake, spark plugs, did a compression test. Didn't find anything wrong put it back together ill put my fuel pressure sensor in today and take a look at what that tells me but I think the next step would be to hardwire the pump. I found a th r ead from a while back were a guy had the same issue and he replaced the pump like 3 times, the fpr 2 times, and none of that fixed it, the problem ended up being the pump needed to be hardwired. So I'm going to do more research on that and I'll update if I figure anything else out tonight. Here is spark plug pics if anyone is interested 1-4 in order, only enough cylinder 4 looks richer than the rest. These plugs only have 1500 miles on them and they are 1 step colder. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I'm trying to think if I did something to cause this issue, the only thing I can think of is i messed around with the tip in enrichment, but that shouldn't have anything to do with the wot fueling. The problem started probably a day or two after I did that anyway. I haven't done anything that would mess with the airflow. The car is acting like the maf scaling is incorect up top. What I'm thinking now is to put the pump back in, I have a fuel pressure sensor coming tomorrow so I will be able to tell if the problem is fuel pressure related. Correcting my mistake with the base fuel pressure, and going out and logging it to see if it is still leaning out. If the pressure is accurate and it is still leaning out, i may just need to re adjust my maf scaling. There are no boost leaks that would cause this much of a discrepancy, i know because i once accidentally left my wastegate hose unplugged and it didn't cause any fueling issues like this. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I pulled the pump and all of my o rings look to be in good condition 1 of the orings stayed in the assembly when I pulled the pump out the other was still on the pump. Is there anything else I should check while I have the pump out. I'm considering putting the stock pump back in to see if I got a faulty pump maybe. Or do I just put it back to gather and hope all is good. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Vacuum refrence is from stock location on the intake manifold Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

The fpr is on the return line Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

I went and drove around and did a wide open throttle pull and my afrs were 4% leaner than target. Before this issue the afrs we spot on target all the way through the wot runs. Like you said I think the problem may be an o ring in the basket from running too high fuel pressure. I'm going to buy some o rings from subaru and then pull the fuel pump again and hopefully that is my problem because that is a cheap fix. I'm also going to get a proper sensor that I can data log with and lower the fuel pressure at idle. Hopefully that will fix the problem, ill keep yall updated. If anyone has any other ideas of possible causes feel free to post them, I'm still open to other possibilities. Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk

Right on the fuel pressure regulator Sent from my SM-G770U1 using Tapatalk