Pleides

Any updates on your experience with it yet?

You really need to vacuum test these at like 1 bar because of the turbo. Breath ain't gonna get you there.

They might be able to lend you a working MAF sensor or another member can let you borrow one to see if that helps with your issues. I had very similar issues to you when my first MAF when bad. Use only OEM Denso sensors. Aftermarket ones are an absolute no-go on a modified car, or really any turbocharged car.

I didn't notice any NVH differences until the valvetrain and turbo were on full tilt compared to my absolutely tossed OEM bushings which were replaced around 200K.

Bumping this from months ago. Still have them.

I'd have a speed shop boost leak test that car before driving it. Where are you located?

I suppose if you drive 5K per year and live in a harsher climate than I that 30K every accessory belt change makes sense. My car has 240K and has been well-maintained and I've generally done the factory recommended intervals for service on it with exception to the PCV valve, oil changes (every 3-3.5K) and plugs. Driving it 12-20K per year and changing it every 2 years has never crossed my mind. The car is at an age now, however, where accessories need to be replaced. Can't imagine I have infinite life left in my alternator, for example, and the belts will get changed then. Granted, I have no idea how long the life of a belt would be compared to a tire. At 6 years of age, my tires go by both mileage or age. I'd probably replace a belt if it's been 6-7 years regardless of mileage. My car spends 90% of it's life on the freeway. It generally lives an easy life. Just my experience, and if you want to change your belts more often or do maintenance more aggressively than I do with the original 5-speed still in my car and this being my only car, go ahead. Regardless, these cars are old enough to vote now. You pick your battles with what isn't "quite right" in the car's age.

30K per belt? My accessory belts on my car were in decent shape at around 10 years and 100K old on my car when the engine was replaced at 214K. Maybe if you live in a more extreme climate but that would be a tremendous waste of rubber here in the PNW. Oh, and to actually contribute to the topic: my belts are all Subaru OEM, if that helps.

Found out the slowest tire leak in the world that I've had for months is actually a slightly bent wheel.... goddamn it. Also my sway bar bushings squeak is back but not in full force. Thinking the lube on them helped but it might be time to replace them as I drove on them dry for so long.

Surgeline changed my oil and lubed some bushings. NO MORE INCESSANT CREAKING ! The squeak was from the sway bar bushings. Thank heck nothing necessitated dropping parts of the car to fix it.

The rear door latch mechanisms are not the most sturdy on this car. Would recommend replacing the failed one if you get the door open.

I believe you can test them with a multimeter. I don't know the exact mileage that I've gotten out of them, though. Both failed without CELs, according to the one I replaced from the previous owner, and him telling me he had also recently replaced the O2 sensors before he sold me the car. Probably 30K miles maximum on the second one the car had. My third one (one I installed) is doing fine about 30K later. Just woke up from a nap. Hope that was a comprehensible read.

Car is going to Surgeline on Thursday for an oil change. First oil change I've ever done on the car after more than 3000 miles! I've done a whole 3300 on the oil and I'm sure it's fine. Also having them lube the crossmember and front sway bar/endlink bushings. I've had the nastiest squeak from my car when it's driven for more than a few minutes for a little while now and I'm going insane. Hoping that a little lube without dropping everything from the car will solve it, but I don't have the highest hopes. I swear that, at some point, that I had Surgeline install Whiteline subframe bushings at some point. However, after going through every single receipt for work done on my car, I just do not see records for that. I also have no record of ever purchasing the bushings myself... Just steering rack bushings, rear diff bushings, crossmember bushings, the Kartboy endlinks, the bushings included with the sway bars, and shift bushings.... Are any of these more apt to cause a frustrating rocking chair creak over bumps than others?

My starter isn't original and my car hasn't even seen weather as cold as yours. Definitely not a bad idea to replace the battery and see if that starter comes to life after 5 seconds of cranking or so. If not then don't drain the new battery and go out and get a new starter. Might also be worth giving the starter a tap.

Car is going to Surgeline on Thursday for an oil change. First oil change I've ever done on the car after more than 3000 miles! I've done a whole 3300 on the oil and I'm sure it's fine. Also having them lube the crossmember and front sway bar/endlink bushings. I've had the nastiest squeak from my car when it's driven for more than a few minutes for a little while now and I'm going insane. Hoping that a little lube without dropping everything from the car will solve it, but I don't have the highest hopes. I swear that, at some point, that I had Surgeline install Whiteline subframe bushings at some point. However, after going through every single receipt for work done on my car, I just do not see records for that. I also have no record of ever purchasing the bushings myself... Just steering rack bushings, rear diff bushings, crossmember bushings, the Kartboy endlinks, the bushings included with the sway bars, and shift bushings.... Are any of these more apt to cause a frustrating rocking chair creak over bumps than others?

No tuning needed for a catback. Pretty much anything else on this car requires a tune, however. Outback exhausts are a bit tricky to come by, it seems. Nameless is the only company I've ever heard of that appears to make one. P0420 is for a system too lean, usually from an O2 sensor. My front O2 sensor has been replaced twice, FWIW. My original sidefeed injectors were also toast when they were replaced a year or two ago with my 1050X. Might be worth removing the injectors to have a shop clean and flow test them. I believe there's a shop in Spokane that can help you with that. Good times seeing ya yesterday, even if that weird homeless guy decided to walk into Lardo xD

I'll sub! Curious as well.

My bushings are tossed under the car for the subframe and crossmember bushings because I didn't realize, at the time they were installed, that they need regular greasing and that a ton of car has to be removed to lube them. Now my front diff/trans is super loud even though the fluid levels are fine and the fluid is in good shape. I definitely regret the urethane bushings and wish I had kept those OEM. If you wanna be sure, check the fluid in the diff. I'd bet it's fine. Also, potentially check the wheel bearings? I know the 5-speed is quite noisy and I'd assume the split case 6 speed is much the same. Could just be the way the car is in the cold until the fluid is hot.

Worn out bushings could also be the culprit.

Did you install super hardcore crossmember bushings when you did the transmission swap? Might be time to drop the subframe and lubricate them and see if your noise subsides.

Part of me wonders why I never asked my tuner to remove the high cold start idle. I have an aftermarket cat but it would get up to temp just driving. I'm willing to bet it would solve my issues. The knock sensor can pick up valvetrain noise from a cold start, right? I'm currently holed up at home on a very cold day (snow is potentially in the forecast for my neck of the woods) but I'll see if I can get my car in the shop at work tomorrow and check out the knock sensor. I can't remember - are the intercooler gaskets single-use? Been a minute since I removed it to do anything.

This has been an issue since I purchased the car. I've replaced every single component on this car by now, including OEM worn out endlinks with Kartboy ones, ha! The car has 240K on it and nearly nothing it came with when I bought it in 2018 with 200K. The previous owner told me that the hesitation started as soon as he modified and tuned the car. He did TGV deletes and a turboback exhaust as well as a Perrin inlet. I've had it tuned by two other shops and neither has been able to trace the source of the stutter, so I'm kind of just stuck with it. I'll see if I can get an eyeball on the sensor but my assumption is that the PNW climate has been relatively kind to it and that it won't have any cracks or issues like that.

Yeah, I mean the whole engine was removed from the car two years ago so barring replacement of the sensor it all looks and performs like it should. Given it has no issues with tuning on a dyno I would assume Surgeline would have let me know that something was wrong with it if it had issues. I suppose I could replace it but I strongly suspect it works fine.

No differences. Shortblock and heads should be the same.

Sounds like someone needs a standalone