Pleides

No differences. Shortblock and heads should be the same.

Sounds like someone needs a standalone

Thanks for all the replies. My stutter is some sort of knock event triggered by something nobody who has worked on the car (including myself) has been able to track down. During tuning the car doesn't seem to exhibit the issue, so maybe something happens when I go over neighborhood bumps or whatever that the ECU reacts to. It generally doesn't happen if I let the car warm up by idling it during cold starts. Part of me thinks it has something to do with the fact the car has TGV deletes. Anyways, thanks for the information @all. I'll be waiting for a sale on the part or the crank pulley to be in slightly worse shape or maybe a few too many zeroes in my bank account (ha) before buying one. Again, if anybody has any before and after dyno results with one then that would also be appreciated.

Hey all, a potential part buy I'm considering is the Fluidampr crank pulley for our GTs. I've heard from a few people that it can help prevent false knock. Like many others, I've got a stutter at around 2K RPM that occurs mostly when driving the car cold, but often can occur when warmed up or hot-started as well. The engine is nearly new and has done this with it's previous engine and zillions of different mods from the fuel system to the valvetrain components. The usual fixes (tuning, vacuum line relocation, etc) have not fixed this problem for me and I'm fairly certain some sort of engine/engine bay noise triggers the knock sensor to aggressively pull timing quite sharply at that RPM. I'm wondering if the pulley has helped others with this stutter or other false knocks that had no other solutions otherwise? Also wondering if somebody has any before and after footage of their car on a dyno or the like before and after installing the Fluidampr pulley. It's an expensive item and I'm wondering if it's worth it for a stock shortblock car. If it solves that never ending stutter then I'll pony up.

No worries. I'd recommend a 90-degree angle screwdriver for removing the actuator and also would recommend taking your blower motor out and cleaning it while you're in there.

These transmissions are generally thought to be more reliable than the manual transmissions offered on this car. If you want to do a valve body upgrade to make shifts snappier then perhaps that will satisfy the desire for a manual. Would also allow for the insides of the transmission to be inspected to see how healthy it is. A modified auto car should get fluid changes every 30K or so.

It's possible with enough money to do the swap but these cars are common enough that it makes more sense to just buy a manual car if that's what you want.

The one that makes your passenger side blow the wrong temp is probably the easiest one to change. Grab a new cabin filter from the Subaru dealer when you pick up your new actuator and it's a double whammy.

I think the concern mainly is that they look hacked up on a car with dual-exit exhaust cutouts and the car OP bought is a presumably pristine example given the location of the car and its mileage.

Damn, how in the world did you find one with 65K on the clock? That's insanity. Most of us are over 200K by now. I would almost suggest just leaving it alone given how rare these are and how uncommon they've become with them being wrecked, rusted away, etc over the years, but it's your car. Have you listened to clips of the Borla exhaust for our car? It will give you that "Subaru" sound. Here's my car from a couple of years ago linked in a video below. It also has an Invidia downpipe on it, which will change the sound a bit. Because our cars are longer than a WRX, you won't get the *exact* sound of one of those, but you can come pretty close. The Greddy SP2 is also a good option for a wagon that gives you that sound and will fit the wagon a bit better length-wise. I later had metal pipe welded to my Borla's mufflers to fit the length of the wagon. Yes, I know that's hard to stomach given that the exhaust is so expensive. If you can find the Greddy SP2 then that would give you all you're looking for, but I believe they're discontinued. Here's a sound clip. As for the 15+ WRX, I can't imagine it will produce the sound you're after. It uses equal length headers from the factory and I don't think the hanger locations will line up on a modern chassis car. Here's a prior thread that discusses the issue a bit, too.

I still remember you getting away from me on that onramp with your PS4s gripping like crazy and my half-decent Falken FK510s struggling to keep up despite me having twice your horsepower!

I'm pretty sure the AEM pump came with a filter...? Maybe it didn't, but yes, you should replace it.

Had nothing but good experiences myself with Safelite. I've been told they're kinda spendy but my local one does a good job. Best of luck getting everything redone.

Mine is a manual, too. Probably should have mentioned that. Autos have a taller 5th gear. Good luck with the rebuild. Definitely recommend a valve body upgrade. Really sharpens up shifts from what I've felt in friends' cars

Unless your car is stock you won't get 28 MPG on the freeway no matter how hard you try. Hypermiling (AKA drafting semi trucks) from Seattle to PDX I got 26, but my car is modified.

Is the risk still there for the firewall using something like a Perrin unit? Heard about this happening on 2015+ WRXs quite a lot but not on the LGT.

Ooh, that sounds fun! You driving the Outback there or do they provide anything for the car control clinic?

Follow the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual. Fix stuff as needed. Oil should be changed every 3-4K if you still have your banjo bolt filters installed. If not then less frequently is OK but you should keep on top of your oil levels and do a Blackstone test to see if your car and oil are playing nice if you plan on going much beyond that. If your car sees road salt then cleaning the underside and door jams regularly is very important as these cars rust away very easily. Check for rust in the fuel filler neck.

My car has spent its entire life away from salt and anywhere east of NE Washington. The only spot of rust anywhere on the car is in the windshield area and, for me, is only visible with the windshield removed. Your picture doesn't show up, just FYI.

Ah, I did the STI FPR at the same-ish time as the fuel pump, so that might be part of it. Good luck.

Surgeline also uses the AEM pumps for Legacies, FWIW. I have one in my car and no issues.

"While you're in theres" are just the parts that should be replaced or upgraded if you plan on doing them soon-ish as you've already got the major parts that are in the way out. IE if you're replacing the shortblock you might as well replace the valvetrain components with nicer ones (nicer valve springs, valves, etc), or while you're replacing the turbo you should upgrade the inlet pipe as they're known to tear. Stuff like that. Good luck, and definitely keep the Avalon around.

Do you plan on keeping this car stock? Cuz if not, that's a lot of "while you're in theres." These cars are old now and incredibly hard to keep running without a lot of care. You will need to regularly check your oil level and use premium fuel without exception. With the price you paid for the car, if it's on its original engine I would start saving up for a new one. Can knock out all that much easier with the engine out of the car, apart from the struts which, if you want to upgrade the handling of the car, definitely inquire here. Gotta say though... whoever owned your car prior did not take care of it if the intake cam gear is rubbing on the timing cover... wondering if they maybe hit something and replaced the bumper?

Take it to a shop and have them test it for vacuum leaks. It almost certainly has a massive one if the car stalls idling.

If anybody asks I'm a size 18*8.5+44 Volk CE28.