Pleides

You would need a hub adapter or a few other parts swapped (I believe the knuckles, entire brake set, and axles and rear diff?). This is a common conundrum during 6-speed swaps. Using almost any STi transmission creates this conversion as a requirement. You're gonna be paying out the ass for STi brakes, more likely than not. It isn't worth it.

Yes, you will have a check engine light at the very least if you don't.

The A/C can come on with the heat if you let auto climate control do its thing or if you use the defrost. I may be wrong but I don't think you can get the heat on full blast on just your face or feet with the A/C on in manual mode.

Perhaps on your car. It doesn't work this way on my 05 LGT wagon.

Set auto climate control to 65 degrees. Does it come on? A/C does not come on these cars unless using auto climate control and the temperature is 74 or less (given appropriate weather outside) or the manual climate control is set to 65 degrees on both sides of the car with the A/C on. No, it doesn't make sense to me either. I thought my A/C was broken because of this and it turns out that using auto climate control is the best way to get A/C on without having it set to 65.

I mean hey, if we're setting money on fire here...

242K here. I'm driving about 12K per year if my math is correct. I'm hoping to hit 300K! Debated between doing a cross-country road trip or visiting Australia as a grad gift to myself when I'm through with college finally and ultimately opted for the latter. Perhaps that cross-country trip will be a 300K gift to my car! Man.. that's pretty impressive? Guessing ya took out the banjo bolt filters? Stock?

Yesterday was pretty toasty compared to today where we got a glimmer of snow in the morning. Climate change and the weather in Oregon definitely is pretty wacky nowadays. Driving around at mundane speeds in the rain and I don't think I can seriously feel much of a difference between my old tires apart from the fact that these are louder and initial steering effort is heavier. I'm very excited for some warmer weather though!

Open source software is the way to go here. I don't particularly care to name the software as I do think the EPA monitors a lot of these forums these days (not to sound too conspiratorial but you can see why we'd hesitate to mention it, right?) but the stuff is out there. Tuners do not tune this code out anymore because the EPA has a heavy hand when dealing with these tuning shops. Your best bet is to return the downpipe if possible and get a Gesi catted one from Cobb or Grimmspeed. The code will always come up regardless of the weather with no catalyst but cold weather may tend to increase it's propensity to give you a warm amber glow. I'm not sure how you managed to actually come across a catless downpipe these days unless you bought it used but hey, that's the risk you take buying a used part. Also, the inclusion of a Gesi cat is not always a 100% success rate for eliminating that code, but it helps. Leaving your factory TGVs alone as well as any other emissions systems will help you there. Also, FYI, constantly resetting the code will prevent your car from being "emissions testing ready" when doing DEQ or whatever equivalent you have in Michigan.

This is probably something you should have done a bit more research before committing to doing. With Green Speed changes for Cobb, they no longer tune out catalytic converter-related codes. You need a Gesi downpipe with a CARB compliant catalytic converter.

I got my PS4S on yesterday. Wow, amazing steering feel right off center and insane levels of grip. My Falkens definitely didn't hold the grip around corners like these do! They might actually be a bit louder than the Falkens? Hard to say, but I do really quite like these on this car.

Indy 500s are notoriously weak in their category in the rain. My Falken FK510s were phenomenal in the rain, and we get a decent amount of it here in Oregon! Low tread definitely won't help there.

Super high-performance summer tires are better in the rain than any other category of tire. They stop quicker and they can corner with more G-force without slipping.

Modern high performance all season tires like the Michelin AS4 can pull higher G-forces around a corner than an UHP summer tire per Tire Rack's categorization of tires and only barely lose on stopping distance. I'm in a similar boat right now. If you're OK with a lesser summer tire, the General G-Max RS has a great set of rebates right now if you check that out on Tire Rack. The Goodyear Eagle Exhilarate is also on sale right now and it's an all-season performance tire. It's around the same price on Tire Rack after rebates. Michelin also has a $110 rebate on PS4S so I'll be grabbing those this week. I'm coming from a set of Falken FK510 that have suffered underinflation damage and some dry rot (guess who overused silicon-based tire shine... oops) so they need to go. Absolutely zero complaints with them for the time I had them. I swear the Michelin AS3+ I had before had a higher grip limit though.

This seems weirdly outrage-y to me. Should we start removing coolant and fuel gauges from cars because they're "distracting?" What about odometers? Are those distracting on cars since they update while the car is moving? I agree that huge screens and stuff are distracting and that people should get off their phones but double-checking your speed on your way through a school zone takes your eyes off of the road for the same amount of time as checking your oil temperature.

It's something that is a potential theft magnet being stuck on the dash or wherever and the coolant temp isn't super important to me as the dummy gauge does a good enough job of letting me know when things are working as intended. I leave the AP in the armrest. If it did oil temp I might consider it but the hardware isn't there for the AP to read.

For me I just wish we had a boost gauge and oil temperature sensor. Former for troubleshooting and the latter for knowing when I can step on it. The Audis I drive at work almost all have oil temp sensors and it takes far longer than the coolant getting up to temp for those to even register the minimum temp on that gauge of I think 140(?) F, like roughly twice as long in the winter. That's with 0W-20. Not sure how a modern engine with such thin oil gets up to temperature compared to our old EJs but just food for thought. I always wait until the coolant has been up to temp for at least a couple minutes before I seriously flog the car.

Leave your car stock until you're 200% certain that everything on it works and it's in good shape. If the car is rusty then I'd suggest not investing any money into modding it. It's an 18-year old car. My car has 241K on it and I've replaced more parts than you can imagine, sometimes by myself and sometimes though my shop. These were not tremendously cheap cars to keep running new and they're definitely not now. Change the oil every 3-4K miles, make sure your suspension bushings are in good shape (they aren't based on age alone if they haven't been replaced in the last 5 or 6 years), make sure your axles are in good shape (the right front one probably leaks) and make sure your wheel bearings are good. After that, keep the car clean inside and out and be proud of it, THEN start modifying it. If all you want is for the car to be lower then sure, Riceland coilovers will do you fine, but the car will ride like shit, handle worse than stock, and those COs will last a year or two before they're completely blown. Also, only @Febreze Meereally touched on it, but there are much better things to do with your money in high school. I know that this won't stop you from spending money on an old Subaru, but if I get to yell at clouds... Edit: just checked from the post history - you're in Massachusetts. I am 100% certain your car has a decent amount of rust.

Good question! I don't know the answer but hopefully someone here does.

The software requires being connected to the internet to work so I'm not sure how they did this, but congrats!

Here in Oregon it would sell for 12K without trouble. No rust to see here!

The problem with an old Subaru of the dreaded era of head gasket failures is that they're basically all worthless to a point unless they've already had the heads done. I'd recommend listing it on Craigslist and Facebook marketplace at 12 grand and seeing what someone will pay for it. This is assuming it has zero rust.

Most new OEM cars are manufactured for stateside with California emissions standards and have been for 30 years or so. I'd think your best bet would be to avoid Cobb stuff as much as possible from here on out. My tuner exclusively tunes with Accessport software and has not been doing catless downpipes for years. They're in Portland and are doing fine. I think this particular aspect with topfeed conversions unfortunately affects a small enough group of people with older cars that it's kind of a nothing burger. You'll want to tune open source, that's my guess. Learn it yourself or find someone who will do it for ya and throw the receipt away.

Given that it's a Subaru flywheel, can't imagine that would be the issue, but it's hard to say. Everything looks quiet buttoned up there, but I'm not going to pretend that I know everything there is to know about how it's supposed to look. I'm having a Fluidampr pulley put on at my next oil change. We'll see if it makes a difference for this situation.

So it appears my knock sensor is triggered by whatever noise I get from my transmission when disengaging the clutch with high idle from cold starts. The car sees knock if I accidentally drop the clutch kind of hard as well, like revving up to 2K before letting the clutch completely off the floor. Not really sure how to solve that... Possibly with a heavier flywheel? Using an OEM clutch and flywheel from an 07 LGT.