Pleides

You willing to remove the roll center kit from your car? Also interested in the front and rear sway bar kit. Wondering if it's all one kit or if you could separate parts from it? I already have Kartboy endlinks on my car. It's OK if you can't, but they'd be completely wasted on me and I would just end up reselling them.

A lot of the time they just live with it or pony up for air suspension. His car, I won’t try to stop him. But obviously the logical answer is to run a normal ride height or narrower wheel. To OP, you can run fender flares and cut up the fenders, molding the flares in place of the old fender. That or you could pull the ride height up until you can afford air suspension. This is why a lot of people get into the slippery slope of doing things like ridiculous camber and stretched tires - to get “that fitment,” but you’re compromising many things at that point, and creating a potentially dangerous car.

My car was tuned on a bad MAF and sent CELs off with no rhyme or reason, however my car would stall a lot. Put a new MAF in and go for a tune, perhaps? When I put the new MAF in I ran pretty lean until tuned on the new one.

Get as many parts to allow for adjustment of camber as possible and camber it until it fits, but don't say we didn't warn ya about going that low. How much negative camber are you running now?

Did the mod where you cap the intake runner vacuum port on #4 and use a vacuum T for the fuel pressure sender to the BOV vacuum line. Reset the ECU, hoping that my ever-present stutter will go away. Car behaves better, I think? However it definitely still had some stutter. Need to go about checking the grounds next.

I put those same speakers in my old Camry a couple years back. How do you like them? For me, I actually preferred the OEM ones as there was no low-end at all even with my aftermarket Pioneer head unit. I probably needed an amp or a sub in hindsight. The midrange and highs were excellent though.

Can’t speak for my own car as I live in a salt-free state, but the fuel filler neck doesn’t take kindly to salty roads. Check there first. Extremely common problem on these cars.

Alrighty, I’ll order one then and you can send it to me whenever you can! Thanks, and no rush.

Hate to bump this thread from 2018, but I'm looking for another vacuum line T and they don't appear to be in stock on your website. If I order one will you still be able to send one my way?

How much lower will you be? 235/45/17 is a huge tire. Might not fit if you're really low on coilovers. If you're looking for an inexpensive wheel that looks good on these cars, IMO the Enkei Raijin is one of the better ones for the money. They're rotary forged so they're decently light too.

I dunno if any of you are/were fans of the late Avicii, but I ordered some emblem overlays and they came last night. Put them on today.

I should mention that, within a couple weeks of making this post, my struts had undergone some... trauma with 5 of my friends and I taking a ride in it and going over some of Portland's worst roads during a trip, and resulted in the leaking of all four sides. Front left was bouncy as all heck by the time I had the job done by Cobb Surgeline. I will say, my only woe with the suspension is that it isn't as low as I would like. That's really it. I don't think any coilover would be this comfortable anywhere near the price of the hardware here.

It was way easier than the badges, that's for sure! I just layered up the edges with painter's tape, leaving no spot unchecked, including the underside, as some of the chrome resides under there as well. I used masking tape for the areas further out so that newspaper could stay put there whilst spraying. It doesn't look perfect as it started (surprise, welcome to Portland!) raining during my time doing this. I pulled up as close to the front of my house under the roof as possible to minimize damage but it left a couple very, very small spots that are chrome if you peek hard enough at the right angle. It wasn't hard though. If it were a good, sunny day, it could be done in maybe 2ish hours of every 10-15 minutes going back to apply another layer. I used, I wanna say 8 layers? I also used two layers of their Glossifier, which is more of a clear coat than a glossy application. My cans are both more than half full after that endeavor, so no need to get a bunch of cans. In case the other link dies, here's the small gallery in my Google Drive.

Already did the deed. Konis and H&R springs. Happy as a clam!

Are you planning on tracking the car? Lowering it? How much money are you willing to spend? All in I spent about $1100 on the hardware for my suspension (, struts, springs, top hats) and it was worth every penny, even after Surgeline installed it for me.

The car handles amazingly and is super comfy. With new top hats, I’d say it’s even more comfy than the worn out KYBs I had before. Absolutely recommend. Hope you enjoy it! Glad I didn’t go the route of coilovers.

I’ll do that, thanks.

Oil had about 4K miles on it (synthetic) when I did the new OCVs. Oil in the car now has about 300 miles on it. The OCVs looked clean, I guess? I’m not sure as they both looked about the same as the old ones, however a lot of really clean oil poured out of the car as if it were trapped in there when I took the old ones out.

Sorry, my bad as I neglected to mention that I had a 3/8" saggy butt spacer installed in the rear. Probably would have been fine with a 1/4" to be honest, but wanted to be sure in case I loaded the trunk down with dogs and whatnot The stupid forum uploader isn't working for my other photos of the car, but here's a Google drive link to a few other pics. Wheels are Enkei RSF5 17/7.5 +50. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1-BTtOkh3qUz_4-Zn1fypBxGWduJPu-76

I’m on mobile, so sorry if pictures don’t post right. It’s a pretty mild drop. I can fit 2.5 fingers between the 215/45/17 tire and the fender. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1du1CueDfa7-0LNXTxsgQ4siu18E9GSK-/view?usp=drivesdk

For the alignment I’m running -1.1 degrees front negative camber and neutral in the rear, I believe. There’s no rear alignment adjustment on these cars from what I was told. He also noted I had a couple worn bushings in the rear. As for tires, I will probably go the route of two separate wheels and tires when my dad sells his bike he hasn’t ridden in 6 years and store those in his garage. Side note: anybody want a 2012 BMW R1200RT with 6-year expired tags? I’m not 100% certain on wheel choice yet for the summers, but I’ll probably be going the route of a 225/40/18 Falken FK510 and then putting 225/45/17s studies winters on my old Enkeis I have now.I’ve driven a few RWD 400+ horsepower cars at work running Michelin PSSs (Chevy dealer, so think Vettes and SS) in our winter rush a couple weeks ago and did fine, although losing a bit of traction between up shifts when merging on the freeway was a little dicey. I’d imagine that would be less of a problem with AWD.

I did H&R springs on Konis on my wagon and they're as comfy as stock, full stop. H-tech springs from Tein are pretty comfy too.

Alrighty, so I know this is a bump from the nether, but I went for the Koni plus H&R route. Surgeline seemed bent on me going for the coilover route, but I just couldn't see a good reason to go that route. I'm still running AS3+, gonna hold off on new stickier tires until I can afford different wheels because the wheels I've got now I'm not exactly in love with. Probably going for the Falken Azenis FK510. Somebody can chime in if they have any experience with those. The Koni+H&R setup handles better than I can even seek the limits of with my ability as a driver. They're an incredible pairing. Very, very comfortable too. My old KYBs and stock springs were pretty well-worn before I swapped these two in and I notice no ride comfort difference at all. I also replaced the top hats with new OEM ones to keep things more comfy (I don't know if they're different than the KYB ones). The drop isn't tremendous, but after coming to realize that I encounter too many hills in the SW Portland area that can't be breached by a car that's any lower than mine, I'll be content with the modest drop of the H&R. The tech noted I had some worn rear toe link bushings when doing an alignment on my wagon. More money to spend one day, I suppose. Here's a picture. Really, really happy with the setup.

All four wheels have had bad bearings in my 210K miles according to CarFax, so don't be surprised if more than one of yours is bad! My left front went and I could feel it in the steering wheel when changing lanes on the freeway. Two of mine failed just out of warranty back in 2007.

If you want to test if the wheel bearing is bad, jack the up the car and make sure no weight is on the suspension. Preferable to do this on a lift. Grab the wheel with one hand and the other on the spring (assuming you have a strut and spring suspension, IDK if this works with coilovers) and spin the wheel as hard as you can. Not only does this test your tie rods, but if you feel vibration in your spring then your wheel bearing is likely bad. You shouldn't feel much, if anything, in the spring with no weight on the suspension.