phish27134

Struts still around?

You wouldn't happen to have those instructions? I just bought a 2008 Legacy and the guy I bought it from had them, but never installed, there in OEM box with JDM instructions, i know it seems simple enough, but if you could hook me up with them I'd be greatly appreciative.

My problem is it took 6 weeks, for the engine I just paid 5 k for, and Insurance covered the rental from collision until the first until a week ago, I've has rentals for 8 weeks! I cant afford rentals I need to make moves, there is a frame place near where the engine shop is they say due to the virus they are doing estimates thought the internet, I know they can't estimate frame damage through pictures, I found other cars, One in baltimore and another in mass, but with the virus IDK about traveling across state lines, I know no issues back into NJ, but I'm also an essential employee in NJ. Have documentation, but its a local company not a major one, never the less we provide life sustaining services(in NJ)

Insurance uses only new, they said they didnt want to do the job, place was a sham went around for most expensive items cause insurance totals it when it hits 75% of value. Everything listed was prep, painting, 2 wiring harness(one cut wire) tire( was still inflated when I picked it up). They just wanted to hit the "magic" number and total, cause I said I'll pick up the difference, either he was in experienced or lazy, who refuses money made on body repair? I know what is charged for blending for just paint alone is insane. I don't know if there is frame damage, my engine installer who doesn't do body said it need to go on a frame machine idk, to see if it needed work or if so how bad was it. I would have taken pictures but a tow was coming and I wasn't trying to climb underneath, I did buy it back, asked my engine guy to rebuild suspension , hell I can do the a-arm strut, ball joint sway bar, i even installed a jdm 02 bumper on my 03 Subaru rs, I do have upper pics but just showing radiator didn't touch case and from front and nothing hit the turbo. I can get a whole front clip for $1400, get the fenders and body parts myself and will drive around with it just having primer. I need it drive able. Im temped to post their write up, basic run down, generally speaking, New Front bumper, reinforce, energy, prep, fog lgts, clear and paint just shy a 1000 Front headlights i know what new oem and non go for New Hood, prep, paint and clear 600 fender 127, i can get brand new for 75 shipped they thew in a wiring harness for srs and std one both are $1000 together, one wire is broken, looks like the cut/ ripped back the srs front door, new internals, 312 and a non flat tire I paid 90 for brand new 190 Can I fight this some how, that this was almost fraudulently done, esp since they refused the work? $259 for a HUB!, I just replaced them both for less than that oem might be cheaper. Im in NJ tho Im assuming the apron is up front, Im single no kids, ill take the chance, I used to ride my r6 doin stand ups dpwn 295 past troopers. More pics, I just need it drivable, I had the car for a year the jerk told me timing belt was done snapped at 170(Because it was never changed), I would have done in in a few more months, this is a family friend, tells me timing jumped. My engine sure no problem usually get an engine in a few days 2 weeks MAX, 6 WEEKS later get the car! Had it for 2 days its misfiring I have a decent computer runing lean call sure bring it up, IM 4 min away leftt work early narrow road car i think was illegally parked, heard a noise cause I was listening the whole time looked awat split second......waited 6 weeks!! wasted a fortune on rentals now, its sitting at engine guy multiple email, like i HAVE the cash fix it i dont make good money but its the one thing that makes me happy. Now im in limbo? Do you fix the suspension first, do u need the frame checked? Cant go there, have a big disclaimer cause of virus no customers... I just want the car fixed, I have some money to spend, I can do alot of the work and the painting it can wait cause i need to get to my job. Sorry for rant, other pics if they help...Senseless I appreciate your input immensely!! You've told me more than I heard since it happen. Sure quote me minus painting *wouldnt let me attach more pics

I have a 07 Spec B, brand new engine installed, new clutch and exhaust, I hit the rear end of a parked car, air bags didn't deploy, radiator didn't push into engine, no leaking fluids, passenger suspension and body components need complete replacement, I looked at the frame no ripples or visual damage that I can tell. I took it back to the engine installer he agreed about suspension replacement and said it needs to go on a frame machine. Tire and rim look fine pushed into the door. Slightly, I have pics nut just of different areas not a complete shot to give an idea. Insurance totaled it went thru the list it was all body and some listed were still ok, are repairs not going to be worth it? Car was immaculate inside and out prior to collision.

im on a time frame, id take the long block, my mechanic said i think later this week he can start, said 1200 to put a used in but cant find a used these guys at junkyards are clueless im liki just need a legacy gt fro 05-08 dont even throw in spec b cause then thier heads are spinning, what about a sti engine in those years? too many issues with harness etc?

The jerk I bought my spec b from lied and said that the timing belt had been changed when in fact it hadn't and at 170k it skipped and a valve smashed into a piston. So Im looking to replace my engine.

Also having difficultly finding a replacement engine any EJ255 around 05 and later should work correct?

Well timing, jumped cause D bag I bought it from never had the belt changed according to my mechanic, put new belt set time. A valve is fucked, hes a one man band that doesn't have the means. Now I dont know what to do I LOVE that car, do I take it to Subaru? Which Im ball-parking 5k or do i get another engine he said he put it in for 1200, prob is spec b engines are a little rare. IDK take it to Subaru? They said 180 to diagnose, which goes towards whole price, is just a burnt valve or a bent one and prob atleast 2 cylinders. I dont want to give the car up need advice, mean time bought car from this idiot who has a bugeye in NJ, maybe some have seen it, I should put him on blast in this fourm....Told me when I bought it timing belt was changed, mechanic shows me the old timing belt has cracks alllll over it and said one of the idle bearings is complely shot, he said if it was done had to be over 150k miles ago, car has 170. I contact d bag ask him at time of sale for records never got em, asked agin, and said u had all periodic maintenance was done like timing belt yeaaa, i respond welll car says otherwise mechanically, tell him Im taking it to Subaru and sending him the bill or taking him to court. Never signed any documents at sale besides title. People are like good luck getting that money, ive done pro se in civil before, im not a lawyer but know ythe process. I hear a lot of good luck getting the money from him, but I have mechanical proof, plus he admits in email timing belt was done, but threw out all the records. Can I re-coup money from him (NJ) Should I take it to subaru should i get a replacement?

I wanted to, but its my daily driver, its now at a solely Subaru mechanic, but its been almost a week an older, guy who I know is a good guy. I did my clutch for the first time I have the FSM saw all kinds of u tube videos spent days trying to brake the trans free from the engine after days of getting a few hours a night working 8 hours then right to the car, I finally got it was about 11pm, i was excited so excited and burned out I put the throw out bearing in BACKWARDS! Get everything together push the clutch in and my heart sank, I've done complete suspension swaps, timing belts, but never serious engine work. Defeated took it to him, I saw my engine mount was cracked and drops of oil on my filter. He charged me for just time, which in effect was a simple fix with the right tools and a lift. But was like o crap forgot I took the engine mount bolt out brought it back on the lift and was like these mounts are gel filled, the rubber cracked isnt a big deal, so u dont need to replace it, then I asked about the oil, "was like my buddy is saying oil pan gasket", shook his head Subaru doesn't use gaskets, remove ur oil filter, the cooler on top has a gasket, replace it. What mechanic Subaru mechanic would give out free knowledge like that at a stealership? He was f'in right, replaced the $4 gasket on oil cooler, no more leak. I read about doing the leak test, but had minimal resources, my car is stuck at my work that has a nice heated huge garage some tools but no lift, and I can take a company vehicle home, but only to home and work. I set a dead line, replaced the one plug, traced every vacuum line got a PCV, when I replaced plug 2 on cylinder 1 it was late and got so frustrated at coil pack not going in i threw in the towel, I dint have means for smoke and not about to spray brake clean on rubber hoses. I read it might be injectors, could be manifold gasket, cleaned MAF 3x, wasn't sure about PCV, but read it was difficult, got pressure from outside family which really pissed me off as they meant well but felt like they thought I was in over my head, I have carsoft i103 or what ever reader as welll as FreeSSM and SSM3, but dont have the outrageous $300 module. Have the carsoft computer as well as the USB cable that supports the specific standard for the SSM, but I guess u need that stupid module. Figured this guy knows Subaru but is a one man show, closed Fridays and wasn't gonna get a chance to even look until day after I dropped off. So went by gave complete run down, he saw the gaskets for intake manifold and was gave this vibe like lets hope we dont need to replace them, I mean the leak is small, normal vacuum is 20 mmhg? its sitting just over 10, i had a hose blow completely off the back of the manifold once and boost gauge is sitting at 0. Idk vacuum maybe with electrical, or O2 sensor upstream, but no codes except for random misfiring, and NOT once on cylinder 4, which to me is weird, like I said before 2 was the worst, plug was in really bad shape 1 would occasionally misfire and 3 even less. Something isnt reading correctly, and there is an issue post MAF. Called today, left message no word bad feeling, NOT TAKING IT TO STEALERSHIP, id diagnose some more, maybe spend 300 on SSM module, then engine swap up, cause its got 172k on it and money for Subaru to **** around is damn near what I saw for complete engines with all accessories.

Its not just misfiring on one cylinder, its sporadically misfiring a little on every cylinder but 4, 2 is the worst and 1 is half as bad, replaced plug in 2 was bad...Cylinder 1 not so bad, still back to misfiring, and vacuum isn't right as my boost gauge always shows 20 at idle its sitting around ten, when I accelerate the vacuum increases. Traced every single hose in existence.

I was driving down the highway at 80mph, not in sport mode so I don't believe I was making any boost, actual I wasn't according to my gauge, when all the sudden everything starts flashing(cruise control, CEL, ABS), I pull over I have a more advanced scan tool where I can look at specific systems, like ECU, TPMS. or just regular DTC's. I had were misfire on cylinder #2 and occasionally #1, but had half or so the regular vacuum I normally would have at idle. I limped to the garage, cleaned MAF, changed #2 plug was covered in oil, searched and traced every vacuum line inspected nothing was disconnected or cracked. I've experienced when a hose came off and boost gauge read nothing, normally at idle boost gauge reads 20 vacuum, now it reads between 10-15 closer to 15 and as I increase throttle vacuum increase, instead of going towards boost. I can't make the connection between misfires and vacuum, but I read a suggestion about intake manifold gaskets and will be replacing tonight, as well as PCV. I also noticed a decent oil residue in the intercooler, could this be from a bad PCV valve? Could a bad PCV affect the vacuum. Its crazy just prior to this event I was driving turbo on and off for at least 30-45 mins no issues. Im cruising at 80 not under boost and boom. I'm totally confused, also picked up a coil pack for #2, but doubt its of significance, cause while on the side of the road as I let it warm up and idle, at one point there were hardly any misfires. I did also listen to engine while misfiring and heard a whooshing noise that seemed to come from the air pump area, was it just the pump running? Any advice would be enormously appreciated.

Still offering for sale?

Anyone still offering an intermediate pipe for sale?

Question for ya, whats the condition of your dash?

I put the throw out on backwards, I had been working on it a night after 8 hour days, finally got the trans split, it was mid night, did everything properly cleaned bell housing, grease etc. attached new clutch pressure plate checked instructions multiple times but remember multiple nights prior gettin 2-4 hrs of sleep then 8 at a desk. Your bound to make a mistake, i had a borescope but lost it so i would have been able to tell, because i remember reading once you get it push the fork toward the engine to engage a sound should be heard, don't recall any of this happening, get it all back together, clutch pedal sinks as does my heart and this being my first time doing a clutch, i'm not noob but not an expert and way more familiar with my imprezas subaru specialist mechanic up..... At Least I now know how to do it properly, what to look for and more than willing to attempt again, although it seemed like an original clutch and now has a stage 1 exedy. Timing belt is approaching, I've done SOHC on my impreza, seen some vids on this engine and will not be taking the cheap route everything is getting replaced.

2007 Legacy Spec B. Mercer County

Yea I did the fork pin pull to release the fork from the throw-out bearing. It was hard as hell still getting it off and back on again. Now when I press the clutch it sinks to the floor and doesn't release.

I saw that in the manual, but so many videos do not discuss this. I have a bigger problem, when i press the clutch it sticks to the floor, if I hold it however the car will start up? Throwout bearing not properly seated in the pressure plate? The slave was working before, its just that the fork doesn't want to seem to return.

Do a couple of youtube searches, seafoam is snake oil(there is a good youtube video where the guy shows the inside of his cylinders prior to using it and after, judging by the video Seafoam it did little if anything at all(smoke is just from the water superheating during the combustion, the truth is Chevron Techron, if your trying to clean injectors and fuel system. I had a endoscope which I lost and would show the results, my car has 170k on it, instantly felt a difference in response. But just as I did don't take everything at face on what someone tells you, check multiple sources and make your own inferences.

In case anyone was wondering you do in fact need to remove the 14mm hex or 10mm hex to access the clutch release shaft. Then you need to thread a timing cover screw into the shaft to pull it out causing the fork to be moveable and push it towards the engine, then transmission will be freed. **Researched from an sti thread since info here is lacking on the 6MT

When removing the transmission from the engine without pulling the engine is it necessary to remove the clutch release shaft in order for the transmission to be broken loose from the engine?

I didn't want to do this but I went ahead a bought a sti clutch specs match spec b per factory service manual, I want to stay closer to oem, im looking at a garage install as my buddy with a lift isn't getting back to me

I just purchased a Clutch Kit LuK 15-021 for my Spec B, i have the factory serivce manual but cant find any info about the set except that it matches the other legacys of my year? Im assuming this is for a NA motor, can I get by with this until I get a proper clutch? Also my spec b has 300 at the wheels, im looking for some crazy set-up could someone provide me with clutch set for a non racer daily driver?

I have a 2007 Spec B with 170k on it, according to the OP when he poped the cv out of the diff tran fluid came out? Also to be mindful of the oil seal, with my milage so I replace the seal for good measure and is it possible for the trans to completely drain with the removal. I'm no newb, im just used to working on Impreza with the pins thru the cv's, theses legacys are a whole nother beast. Esp the Spec B's its the 6MT. Thank you for any all support!