SBT

How-to is on the Home page. Basically, you have them hosted off-site, so depending whether you want to load them to the site for posterity, or to just temporarily post them, use Manage Attachments or the Insert Image process, respectively. For site loading: New Post > > paste your picture URL into the Upload File from a URL box and click upload. You can does this 2 at a time, which is what I did with yours. Then save your post. For temporary posting: New Post > > paste your picture URL into the dialogue box and hit Enter. Then save your post. BTW - to get to your picture URL, I right-clicked your IS picture and chose View Picture, then copied the *.jpg URL for pasting into the MA box.

You mean like this? I'll load them to your thread in a second. http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/265x199q90/r/922/mbBj0Q.jpg http://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/265x199q90/r/923/i3fwlW.jpg Nice looking wagon BTW.

My 99 BK had a lifter-like noise at 45K, and it turned-out to be the TB tensioner. Know the PI and PII engines have different TBT, but possible check depending on what year your engine is, or which tensioner you have installed.

I installed all three when I upgraded to the deeper oil pan.

This! When you change the suspension, i.e. lower it, you create negative static camber, typically too much negative camber. The stock rear lower control arms have zero adjustability, so the KTA124 (and other) bits allow you to regain control over this situation. Finding that balance between fender rub and inner wall rub, especially, if you've dropped your vehicle, widened your wheel/tire combo and/or changed your offset significantly, is a ton easier when you have control over both toe and camber. Nothing provides adequate control over those two dynamics better than adjustable camber and toe arms. I guarantee that you will not get to anything approximating locked-in zero toe and stable dynamic camber without them.

Just an FYI - don't discount a decaying crank pulley, or even a worn/wearing TB pulley as well. I've heard these make very similar noises to what you're describing.

Please proliferate PA posts per PA points.

In NW PA for a wedding. Looks like the local dealer has a Silver one in stock. May go take a look at it to see what if anything is different/offered on this one.

I went with the SMFW on my 05 LGT and noticed immediately how much additional throttle I had to carry to keep everything moving smoothly in 4th and 5th. Now that I've switched out the 5MT for the 6MT, and am using an STI 6MT FW, I've gone with the GS LWCP. STI 6MTFW is heavier than the stock SMFW, but I wanted to lighten it up a bit, hence the GS LWCP. On my 98 LGT I plan to add a GS LWCP, which seems to be a good balance between quick revs, smooth throttle and good inertial flow while driving. Could not abide by a stumbling, engine and rebound when I stop. Much better decel though, so there is that.

albeit big, beefy washers, but washers nonetheless. Time for some PPG and or dogbox setup.

Awesome quote KRB.

That's sad. Not sure if this is the case in AZ, but it seems to be typical everywhere that I've lived. If your car had your insurance on it, then that is the first coverage, regardless of who was driving it. If the "accident" damages are not covered by your insurance, then the harmed individuals, yourself included, can go after whatever insurance coverage the girl had. Hope it all works out. Condolences about the girl.

I'm surprised with LWFW and LWP that you're not getting a CEL - I'm sure it's vibrating quite a bit. Usually not a good idea to install both. Personally, I'd keep the stock FW for driveability (especially when rolling steady-state in higher gears) and install the LWP to help reduce inertial load without impacting driveability.

nyanostar

That's a veritable mountain of wind resistance up there. Surprised you did that well, as loaded as you were, at the speeds you were travelling.

Levorg is a nice package that we'll likely never see here.

Yeah - I meant to mention that the "squat" is due to the passenger side being elevated on a stone bulge, pushing the wheel arch down on the diver side. When on level ground, it actually sat and handled quite level. 18" wheels fill that up even more now.

That's a load. This is what we looked like.

Cross country in Subenwagen, during our coast-to-coast move, we had a 1,200 lb LGA Sport trailer on behind and a 16 CF Yakbox up top, and with the pup, electric cooler, and other essential "move" stuff, we were pretty loaded. Still managed a pretty decent 22MPG overall. That's Stage II-ish with 270AWHP/305AWTQ. Everything we brought with us in the car, the trailer and in the Yakbox would fit inside the Ascent, with room to spare, and we would likely have gotten equal or better mileage with more comfort

I'm personally glad the cross bars are not included at all. It means there's more adjustability, fore and aft for different cargo loads. Plus, I use AM load bars, cargo baskets and boxes, and the foldable bars get in the way IME.

Agree with you on static displacement. The advantage to the H6 vs the H4 and H4T is that you're producing more power distributed over more cylinders thus reducing overall engine stress. 400HP/H4 = 100HP p/cylinder while 400HP/H6 = 67 HP p/cylinder. When you start turning up the wick, you see that you have much more capacity with an H6 than you do with an H4, all else equal and it's even more smooth power delivery than the H4.

Perscitus - Nice kit, but looking for a 3.0R (2008-09) or 3.6R (2013-14) OB wagon

300HP, with even more torque, all day long without ever breathing hard. And it's one of their best engine designs and executions.

I converted all of my IM vac-, water- and fuel-lines to Oetiker clamps. A much better seal and eliminates the need for zipties on all of the factory clamps/connections.