stewdogg

Alright, I have a Uhaul car carrier(flatbed)/pickup truck set to go for this Saturday. I will be hauling the ole girl to my mom/step dads to get this fun started. Islandborn (or anyone with experience) how did your rockers and lifters look when you did your rebuilds? Need to replace any/all?

Thanks islandborn, you are awesome!!!

Alright, I have had a heck of a time trying to get the NASIOC website to work for me. I finally found that Google Chrome works and nothing else I found does. I have enough posts to put up a WTB for the Sti cams. Can I use any year Sti cams or do I need 2008+ cams? Also, I remember reading that the clutch fork is a weak point, so I would like to change that out while I'm in there. Anyone have a link to the upgraded fork? Thanks for all the input guys, I really appreciate it! I have fixed plenty of vehicles over the years, but never built one, so the help is very welcomed with this unique beast.

Haha, thanks, that was just the kind of enabling arm twisting I needed. I was thinking I should talk to them as well. Thanks again! Where did you find them for that price... ebay?

Thanks for the link! I will look at the eye candy they have there. My step dad has a 4 post lift in his big garage and has many years experience with Subies. He is in Waukesha too. I have a lift in town too, but can't leave my car on it for that long, so it will go to his house for a month or so.

I had mine built by AWDTuning. They too sell Stage 1 and Stage 2 Blocks (mine is their base Stage 2) They built the whole thing - we had many conversations about what goes where and what is needed. I drive it daily (30k/year) so I didn't want anything "rough". The injectors and pump had to be upgraded because I run corn. 1000s are perfect. I am looking to switch into an AEM pump tho... DW has started to drop in reputation - first their injectors, now their pumps. Mine is fine so far, but I have 120K on it so its getting time to switch it out. There is a great DIY thread here that I followed to swap out the pumps. Pretty cool and easy. If you will stay with normal gas - stockers are fine....but it doesn't hurt to upgrade them - easy plug and play. The valves were upgraded simply for the power. Stock water pump. This can get all out of hand if you aren't careful. What you want vs what you need can be tough. To give you an idea - my whole build - engine, custom FMIC, custom TM oil cooler, clutch, and tunes put me upwards of about $15k. An engine build alone will run about $8-9k. Thats new short block engine ($3k), all the little adds, and the swap out labor. Tunes run about $500 per tune as well - 4 hours work. Now all of this is by a top notch crew. You of course can save a lot by knowledgeable friends and access to a shop - which I did not have. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Thanks island, I appreciate the conversation and knowledge on the subject! I will be doing all the labor (aside from the heads) my self, so I will save a little cash with that. I think I'm going to go with the stage 2 IAG block and go from there. I would like to keep the engine around the $6,000-7,000 range. I won't count the down pipe and sway bar bits in my engine build, so that will help a bit with the bottom line. The one thing I'm unsure of is if the Sti cams are worth the $800 buy in? I hear people say it helps with mid range power, but how much and does it provide any more longevity to the engine?

Thanks islandborn!! Did you upgrade the injectors for corn? Did you need to upgrade the valves to compensate for the Sti cams? Ugh, I forgot about the TGV deletes... Did you get the IAG stage 2 block? Is it just a stock water pump or an Sti pump? I appreciate it! I knew this was a crap shoot with the prior issues, but there aren't too many around and I got it for $8,500. I figure I will have a similar amount of money into it that I would have if I had gotten a nice stock GT from the get go. Plus, this way I get it built more the way I want it and it will be new enough that I can have fun with the gas pedal and not worry so much about things. I tend to try and look at the bright side.

Thanks Man! That was my next step, to call the parts guy tomorrow and find a couple things out. I guess that would make me lean back towards the IAG build. You know of a good place to get the Sti cams from? Do I just go with any 2008+ Sti cams? FLlegacy, this is the list I got from you in the other thread, I'm going to look up prices tomorrow. Anything else to add to the list? Edit, I added to the list:) ARP studs - $200 STI cams - $165 Sti valve spring kit - $250 Sti valves +1mm - $80 STI oil pump - $150 Felpro Gasket set - ~$200 oem timing belt set - $300 Stock Legacy GT water pump - $100 IAG stage 2 with the seal kit - $3306 BNR 18g turbo - $950 Fuel injectors - Machining work...? Stuff I want to add not counted in the rebuild price.: Invidia down pipe - $600 Bigger front sway bar (while I have the engine out) - $100

So, the ole girl pooped the bed last Friday night on the way home from work... It had been starting to idle real low upon clutch in and then finally dying on clutch in. I think the wrist pin got loose enough to cause drag on the piston. It's not locked up yet, but isn't drivewble anymore. It was getting way too hard to stay out of boost anyway. It was on a really cold night and people seemed to want to honk and flip me off instead of helping, while I pushed my car by myself down a busy 3 lane road. I've only had it for 9 months too... Now I'm looking for a beater with a heater to get through the winter and gather my parts for the mild build. I started a thread on building an engine on a budget, but will just continue the conversation here. Here is said thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/would-you-spend-moneyi-277451.html I like the idea of a 2019 sti shortblock and then adding the sti cams and upgraded head studs. Maybe it would save a couple bucks here to spend there...? Anyone direct me to a thread that list parts needed to do this kind of swap? What's the difference between the 2019 sti shorty and the IAG built stage 2 shorty?

Thanks for the reading! Now I feel dumb, but I would rather know than not know. I used the Lucas to help pump up my failing lifters for years (just to buy a few more thousand miles in the fleet vehicle before tear down) and then just started using it on all the trucks. I should have done my due diligence and done the research, but went with the unfounded sense of security instead. I'll have to find the oil that makes my Subie's quieter... maybe I'll try the 0-40 that you use, but might be different in the cold I have here...? Looks like I'm only going to use the rest of the Lucas for pumping up dying lifters or holding doors open. Thanks man!

I use the Lucas oil stabilizer in my fleet at work and in my personal cars as well. It keeps the boxer a little quieter, in my opinion.

Can we get a pic of that parts shelf to drool over, must be awesome!

Damn, that's a great price! I paid ~$250 for mine this summer. For that price I would get both the Eibach's and the 13-14 stock springs.

Thanks Shadow! I have narrowed it down to having a bad wrist pin. I have also thought about going short vs long block. I don't have the time or money right now for the short block build. I would rather build it, but it's my daily. I will use some of the money on a J pipe and new/refreshed turbo. What was the turn around time on your turbo build? I was gong to try and get it all together and then install it in a long weekend... Thanks for the heads up islandborn! Hmm, I thought that I was getting a new turbo (also thought it was a great price). It makes sense that they need your core. I did a little light reading and came across jackal8788's thread of his 18g to 20g saga. This made me think that the 18g is where I should be at because this will be a mild build and I don't plan on doing cams or any other large upgrades... at the moment anyway. The 18g sounded like a better in town ripper option. Do you have any other reading for me, to help me decide on what turbo I should put in my LGT? I wonder if there's a chance that someone has a stocker laying around that they would want to trade, so I could get the work done on the turbo before I take things apart? You're on your third BNR... different cars or are you hard on your things? I really wish I wasn't doing this 6 months after getting the car, but I know the risks of buying a car let alone a used turbo version... just a bummer is all.

So, I have some internal engine failure and I'm forced to retire this stock engine... I'm looking at getting a long block and picking up a new (used if I could find it) BNR 18g. https://bnrsupercars.wordpress.com/2010-2014-subaru-legacy-gt-turbocharger-upgrades/ Is BNR the place to get a turbo from at the current time? It looks like they port the wastegate too? I imagine I would be better off with the BNR turbo over porting a stock turbo myself...?

That is a very respectable home indeed! Why are you getting rid of the ole girl? I have seen you talk about the fact that you have to get rid of the car, but not why.

Yeah, the link was from you in my GT thread. Thanks! I covered mine with Laminx tint colored film and like the look a lot. Plus, I get a little added protection to the new LED's.

I went through this a couple of months ago. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7946484&jsn=258 I got a set off of ebay for $83/pair, but didn't see any there when I just did a quick search. I think it's a good affordable upgrade.

I'm not on Facebook... I waste enough time everywhere else in life. Does AutoBhan CC have a website and list the Subaru events?

Where's that at Humble?

What you're saying is true in most cases, but not the 5th gen GT's. Read this: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/nameless-downpipe-official-5th-gen-gt-install-thread-247036.html I painstakingly read through the whole thing and I wouldn't expect that pipe to do anything for a 5th gen, but YMMV. My tuner told me about boost creep on the 5th gens and I went down the rabbit hole.

Thanks FLlegacy! That is pretty much the same place I put my EBCS too. Thanks for the confirmation on the fit of the BPV hose too! I really appreciate the help! Thanks copyboy! Well, you might see mine in Waukesha sometime. That is where my mom lives... I guess she is just outside of Waukesha, but I sometimes run into town and grab some chicken at the Chicken Palace. That place is awesome and some of the best chicken I have had. I picked mine up close to Deerfield and was looking for a WRX/STi at the time, but am very happy I found this unique beast! Do you have a build or pics of your Legacy here somewhere?

Thanks FLlegacy! I have lived with the color a while and I still like it a lot, so I ordered another can of copper and I will see what else I can cover tastefully. I wonder if it would look decent with the roof strips painted...? Now, I gotta go and find how to remove them. I also got my Grimmspeed EBCS installed last night (installed the GFB BPV last week) and a stage 1 tune loaded up. There aren't a ton of options for mounting that boost controller, but I got it done. I may go back to change the mount and replace the hoses from the wastegate and turbo because the ones with the EBCS are a little small, but I will see how it works the way it sits. I did have a little trouble with the hose between the BPV and air intake pipe for the turbo. I am now thinking that the previous owner that had the car apart flipped the hose upside down... ? It just didn't seem to pull down all the way on the lower air intake pipe. I'm going to try and flip it and see if it make a difference. On to the fun part, driving. I didn't get a chance to test drive and log because I got it finished late last night and just drove home. I need to get my normal driving logs tonight and send them off to the tuner. The first wave tune is like a heavy turd compared to the stock Cobb 91 tune. I know it's just to see if everything is cool before moving forward to WOT pulls. Thanks for the help and enabling to get me to this point!!

I imagine because it's not holding any fluid back that you should be just fine, as long as you have some pressure on it and you do. If you are going to try and fix it... So, the threads that stripped or partially stripped are in the transmission? You could always try a thread chaser and see if that brings back the threads enough to hold 30ftlbs of torque. If the easy way didn't work, I would install a heli-coil kit and be done with it. They are great and easy to use, as long as you have decent access to the area and can get a drill in there.

Nice work Humble! What do you mean that the bolt partially stripped the opening? Did the bolt elongate the hole int he trans mount or did the bolt/nut lose some threads?