stewdogg

Have you done much research on this? Would it just require a water style intercooler and a way to pump and cool the water to the intercooler? Did you by any chance price this out against the FMIC? I am intrigued for sure.

What the easiest fitting (least amount of cutting) FMIC for the 5th gen? I imagine that is a better idea over running a TMIC with corn...? Is there a timing belt kit for our cars or is it only OEM? I have seen only a couple kits, but they are from brands I'm not familiar with. Does anyone make an engine seal kit or is that just a dealer option as well?

I was thinking it wasn't a daily either, but he has winter wheels...? Seems like they have a little less miles per year than GTEASER.. Seeing the asking price makes me feel a little better with sinking the cash into mine that I am.

WTF right? The bolt wasn't in straight either (not that I would expect any less at this point) and was a battle with a breaker bar to get it out that far. I'm glad I found these issues the way I did and not after the timing belt messed up again and took out my valves or something expensive. This is the exact kind of thing that makes me not trust anyone else's automotive work. I did find that the #4 cyl was my issue and the wrist pin was really bad. Lots of play and noise when shaking the crank back and fourth. You could feel/see the movement in the piston... the pin is toast.

https://appleton.craigslist.org/cto/d/oshkosh-low-miles-subaru-legacy-gt/6846240756.html Very clean looking example and probably the cleanest I have seen locally.

I found more interesting garbage from the last "mechanic"... it seems he/she couldn't figure out what to do after stripping the threads for the timing belt adjuster, so they took out the slip bushing/sleeve and rammed a sweet and huge Home Depot coarse threaded bolt through the adjuster instead. The bolt was in so far that it indented in the block behind it. There was an awesome custom made brass washer they threw in for the hell of it too.

Thanks for the link foxrider28! That looks nasty with that pivot ball breaking through that fork! Did you use the stock throw out bearing with the Southbend clutch or use the TSK3 kit? I got the heads torn down on my engine today. The Sti cams look good and drop right in. I will take side by side pics when I go back to put it back together. I picked up some cam tools and the intake cam tool fit fine, but the exhaust cam tool was listed for a 5th gen, but I assume was actually for a 4th gen. We ended up holding the exhaust cam with some large channel locks and it worked great... much cheaper too. The heads go off to the machine shop Monday.

Is that going on your stock block with however many miles? If so, I could see it stressing things out a bit.

Do you have a link to the springs you were looking at on amazon? Edit: I found theses... https://www.amazon.com/Brian-Crower-BC1600-EJ205-WRX-EJ257-STi/dp/B000HKX0S2/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=Brian+Crower+subaru&qid=1553089982&s=automotive&sr=1-17 Would I need to get new retainers with the springs? The STi and LGT have different part numbers for the retainers too. Not sure what the difference would be between them.

You are correct, the springs are different and the valves themselves are the same... must have read it wrong late last night. It's been a lot of late night part numbers lately. I wonder if I should go stock STi valve springs or go with the Brian Cower springs for my spring upgrade? Sticking with stock valves and hoping for between 320-400 HP.

The STi/LGT share part numbers for lifters and springs too. I will take side by side pics of the cams this weekend, after I take them out.

So, is this the slot you are/were talking about? This is a pic of a 2011 STi stock cam.

I did a little searching last night and it seems that is the popular one. I looked up the part number FJK1001-HD-O and I found SD-FJK1001-HD-O on THMotorsports, I don't know the difference with the SD in front. I can't find anything on the Southbend website with the SD in the part number. I'll call Southbend or THMorotsprots today to get to the bottom of it. Edit: The "SD" is only the friction plate.

What's the go to or reliable stage 2 clutch for the LGT? I think I'm going to have issues quickly if I don't address it now. Looks like I'm going all in much earlier than I thought I would have to with this car. Upgrades before the engine failure: GVB BPV EBCS Cobb AP New upgrades with rebuild: Quantum Performance Stage 2 block Upgraded HTA71 turbo 2011 Sti cams One step up valve springs - sticking with stock valves (not going 1mm over) to save a little cash on machining. ID1050X injectors Cobb Flex fuel Invidia down pipe with high flow cat ARP head studs 11mm STi oil pump I will need to find a solution to my intercooler before I'm finished with the 1,000 mile break in as well. I imagine it wont last long with the higher boost levels.

That sucks about your clutch fork taking stuff out! I'll look for your thread, it would be interesting to see. I will be replacing mine with the upgraded fork and pivot, I've read too many horror stories about it around here. I got the turbo cleaned up, all the lines, studs and oil tank removed. It's packed up and ready to head out tomorrow for the spa treatment at BNR.

I just talked to BNR on the phone and asked which turbo to use for flex fuel applications (18G or HTA68) and he said to use the HTA68, but that has been discontinued and he would then use a HTA71. He said it should spool just fine on gas and handle the 25-29lbs of boost with E85. It is still the extra couple hundred bucks over the 18G. I will be pulling lines, cleaning and shipping my turbo out this week.

Broken bolts make the job so much worse. I was very lucky that I didn't run into any. I just ordered a Primitive skid plate... finally.

That sucks! I'm sure the aluminum didn't help your situation at all either. That stuff really likes to corrode and mess stuff up. Those thread savers are a huge help (if you have the room) and much better than using a die set (in my opinion). What did you have yours out for? Mine was nuts on the two studs on the bottom of the trans and they most definitely were cross threaded. They were brutal all the way off and you could see the mushed threads on the stud itself.

Thanks, no need to apologize (to me) for anything when your trying to help! I went to Fl4tfest last year for the first time and it was pretty fun. Thanks for the heads up on the Madison Subaru Club and the 608 Subies! Do you have a Subie at all anymore or go to any of the meet ups?

Oh yeah, I did notice that this car had another surprise, looks like a junkyard transmission was put in the car with 8,000 miles on it. I suspect that's where the cross threaded studs on the transmission came from. This car was really through the ringer before I got it.

So things went as good as I could ask them to go today. I did find some funky stuff from the last mechanic(s). There was a couple cross threaded studs on the trans and there was a couple wire harnesses that had broken latches and for some stupid freakin reason they put black gasket maker or a sealer of some kind to glue them together. That was a pain to deal with and now I need to get some more pigtails to solder on to make it easier on the next guy. We got the engine out in 6 hours and I got the turbo pulled, so I can ship it off to BNR this week. On schedule so far. Fun fact: I didn't break any of the 10mm bolts on the exhaust manifold heat shield... top or bottom and they looked real rough. I feel I have never gotten that lucky. The turbo bolts came out nicely as well, although they are beat and I need new ones. The front of the sub frame is rusted, so I'm going to wire wheel it and cover it with paint to try and buy some time. Here's a couple progress pics.

Here's the pic of that cam, FLlegacy. I couldn't figure out how to put it in a PM. Edit: This is a pic of the rear right side of the intake cam from a 2011 Sti that I will be putting in my stock heads.

Damn man, that really sucks. It sucks no matter what, but at that mileage, it brutally sucks!!!! I wonder if you talk to Subaru if they would help you out in any way?

What if you were going to run flex fuel and use both 91/E85?

Bahhh, my heads gonna explode. It all started with finding new fuel injectors and led to this: I hadn't even thought of the flex fuel option. I did a little searching and noticed a couple people have used it on the 5th gens. How is it holding up and working for those of you who have had it for a while now? It's one of those things that would be better to invest in now, if I'm going to do it anyway because I would have to pay for an extra tune again and that's an extra $600 I could use for tires... I also saw that a couple places other than Cobb make an option for it, but do I have to use the Cobb set up to work with my AP? Man, if you read through this thread it takes me a painful amount of time to come to the conclusion you all knew all along... pay to play and HP/TQ is like crack. I keep adding up the budget and then throwing that crap in the air. Might as well do it right and enjoy it rather than having a little regret that I left something on the table.