Max Capacity

Answered in other thread, Yes I use 3/4" scoket and 3/4" impact. If you have a good 1/2" impact it should work too. Leave the car on the ground to break the torque on the nut. Then jack up the car.

I acturally have the Sears kit of them, about five different size forks the screw onto a handle. Hey I wonder if that handle would work for hitting the end of the axle to seat it. I'll try that next time I do a axle. The handle has a point on it that looks like the depression in the axle end.

To seperate the ball jonit from the LCA you remove the cotter pin, use a impact to remove the nut, "put the nut back on by hand, about 5 threads". You'll understand when you read the next direction. HIT the side of the LCA with a 5lb hammer about 5 times, take a pry bar and see if the ball joint popped out of the LCA. If not, repeat hitting the LCA until the sound changes. When you've done enough of these you can hear a change in the hit. The ball joint fork will tare up the boot. You can replace the boot needed. I just lockwired mine new one on.

Because it will fail at the least opportune time. Remember the snow we had last January ? For a $80.00 part, replace it while the weather is nice.

^ you must have something else wrong, or your over-reving the engine. I removed the mufflers from my SpecB back in April, no issues.

I think some of your questions will be answered if you read this thread and the one I made a few years back. Mine has pictures in it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193p3.html You have a long time before you need to replace yours. Do you have a good set of tools ?

Jack up the lower ball joint so the axle is level. hit the outer end of the axle with a 2x4 and a 10lb sledge hammer. I have also had good luck by wrapping my left hand around the big metal hunk on the tranny end of the axle and hitting that hand with my right. That got my right axle to seat the last 1/4" a few weeks back

Hi, got your PM. First off I would not buy the parts until your ready to do this job. I didn't worry about the timing marks on the new belt, it doesn't care where it goes on. Intake is on top, exhuast is on the bottom. Once you get the crank and cams lined up on TDC, it will be easy to get them back to TDC if one moves. I remember having to do that. Just make sure the cams are lined up at TDC before you put the belt on. You only need to clamp one side. I just used the C clamp, block of wood and Ford wrench. We're kind of slow here at Hamilton too.

LWFW and noise issues ? I have one if not the first Spec Clutch LWFW and it don't hear any noise at all. FWIW, my LWFW came off a guy's desk because the first batch of them was not ready to ship yet. It's been in there since June 26 07.

Spotted a red GT wagon with MA plates at the Town & Country motel in Gorham NH than again at the Mt. Washington hill climb, I was a course worker at station 18.

I did, I just removed the mufflers, had pipes made up with some nice tips. Sounds great.

That's why I bought the fumoto drain valve http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&source=hp&q=oil+drain+valve+fumoto&aq=1&aqi=g2g-s1g1g-v6&aql=&oq=oil+drain+valve Just to make this easier. Any of you guy's thinking about going to Amsoil and joining as a Perfered Member, please use AZPinstalls as your sponsor. It will help out someone who helps us out here on the Forum. Please support those that give us help for free.

Thanks for the link, So the smart way would be to drain off say two cups in a clean measuring cup from the kitchen, then take the sample, pour the oil from the measuring cup back into the fill tube. Then top off the oil level. Wash the measuring cup and return to kitchen before...someone notices that's it missing

I'm sure Mike will tell you to have the oil analysed to ensure it's still good to go. Here's a link to Amsoil's recommendations. http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/ProductRecommendations.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2009+SUBARU+LEGACY+E I have a oil drain valve on the oil pan so I can have my oil sampled and tested. This weekend I'll wrap the drain valve in a bearier paper and seal it so it will stay clean. Should have done this when I installed it. I'll give it a good wipe with some IPA and Q-tips. In the next month or so I'll look into what it takes to get the oil analysed. I have clean sample bottles that are used for water samples. I wonder if I can use that for the sample and ship it off to the Lab. Just found this, http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php Anybody use them before ?

Because not all oils are the same. You guy's need to listen to what this guy is saying. He's converted me. I ran whatever oil was cheapest from Walmart and did oil changes every 3500-5500 miles depending on outside air temp. Granted the car has 142,000 miles. but if you add up all the money I spent on oil changes, I'll bet it's not that much less then what Mike spent for better oil. He also spent a lot less time under the car, and put a lot less oil in the recycle tank. In the SpecB, I use Amsoil products, engine, tranny, rear diff. When the tranny goes back in the 05 it will get Amsoil SVG75w-90, I did put Extra-S in it's new/used rear diff last weekend because I had bottle left.

You'll need to have a tune with that up pipe (?)

Once you have replaced one of these the next one is easy. These are a bit more difficult then a honda but that may be because of the chassis brace and stiff bushings I have. It's possible to change one in less then 30 minutes if you know what your doing. I will say the $80.00 axle looks much older then the oem one in the car, I changed the left front last Aug. just pulled the tranny 3 weeks ago, that new axle was all rusty, the oem one 141,000 miles looks great. But for the $80.00 who ever see's it ?

For a few dollars more ($80.00) I got a 100% new axle from Advance Auto Parts last Aug. I'm not a big fan of Remanufactured axles.

I guess by now you have started the engine and all is fine. Most of us have had that happen. Appearently having the cams snap back with out the engine running is ok. I have about 45,000 miles since I did my T belt.

Thanks again The part should be here next week somtime.

Just stopped by the dealer. $108.00 for 60319FA201 He gave me the copy of the picture that he printed "B12 Back door parts" the mechanism is #63100 in the picture. I'll PM BAC5.2 and see if that's a good price.

Did this job on the 05 Saturday. We didn't remove the intake just removed the required nuts and bolts to lift either side enough to use needle nose plies to gently pull/wiggle the old ones down and out. Then installed the new ones and lowered that side then did the other side. I also zip tied the vacuume hose as needed. The one next to the hose for the brake booster from the intake to be exact. I have zip tied the others before. Haven't started the car yet, the tranny's still out, that's a different thread. But these new o-rings are much bigger.

We found out the latch is getting power in both direstions. We removed the mechanism, the two brass colored screws. Didn't have to remove any plastic panels. I'll order the mechanism Monday.

If I remember right it's pretty much silent. We'll play with it tomorrow. Thanks for your help.

Thanks, Yes it was locked. Yes we figured out how to get into the it from the inside and move the lever down to unlock it. I sent your directions to my Audi buddy, I let him do all the electrical trouble shooting. He's real good with that kind of stuff.