Max Capacity

I'm begining to think that...too. This 2+ was getting close to the end of its life. But served me well. OH btw, I took about 65 pictures but figured you didn't need to see all of them.

Here's more, and why the dip stick is so hard to read, notice the angle that it goes in the pan. NOTE Looks it might be just easier to post all the photos in a new post at the end of this thread.added the photos Sept 23 2019

Yes all by myself, that way I can learn what not to do the first time...lol My GF helped me guide it out of the car and labeled some ziplock bags for me. Yes very small leak, very intermittent. I believe the front bolt was not as tight as the rest of them. I'll post more pictures in a few, shower time now. Oh its in the back of the 86 ford F150 ready to go to the machine shop. Here's more photo's that I needed to re-post.

I removed the oil pick up tube, which is fine, I will reuse it, remember mine is a early 05, bought it late Jun 04. Once I could spin the pan around and after some tugging like a mofo, that sucker popped off.

Here's a good question. How to you remove the oil pan from the dip stick tube ? I have my engine on the engine stand, the oil pan is loose, no more bolts in it but I still can't get the tube out of the pan. I have not removed the cam gears so I can't slide the tube down behind them.

Make sure you have a good 6 point 14mm socket for the motor mount bolts. Yesterday I had to use a 1/2 impact gun to remove the two nuts. The 1/2 ratchet was not doing very well on breaking them loose even after the PB Blaster sat on them for a while. The impact had no issue removing the nut's.

Yes, I knew that...here's some photo's. The vf52 has over 11,000 miles and has zero shaft play. I was pleased that there was no oil in the spark plug holes. I also had to buy a O2 sensor socket and set of metric hex bits so I can pull the pressure plate. We did that while we were waiting for our diner reservations. Sears hardware was in the plaza with the 99. Had to go the Auto Zone for the socket. I spent about 8 hours to get the engine to where it is now. I'll finish taking it apart tomorrow.

Sorry....need to get it out first. I'll post them later. Been working on it for about 4 hours so far. The block has broke loose from the tranny on it own.

Well I'm having lunch, but the engine is all disconnected. I'll hook up the engine hoist after lunch. I think I can leave the exhaust manifold on while it's coming out ? I'll give it look when I'm breaking the motor mounts loose. I've been taking pictures.

I see where your from, have you heard of RLZ Engineering ? Brad took care of the D16z6 head we had on our Civic. I have spoken to him on the phone afew times. Howard is the Tuner they say he's pretty good. http://www.rlzengineering.com/index.php?page=Tuning

Nice to meet you to Ed. I did some practice fitting of the short block to the engine stand last evening. I'll pick up another 10mmx1.25 nut today and a few washers to take up space on the bolts from my sons house. I picked up 3 Purolator L14610 oil filters over the weekend for the break in period. I have one Fram 6607 that I will use for the first 20 minutes. Got a email from Mike at AZP this morning, I'll have the new oil pump soon and will ship it to me. I asked him about the replacement TOB for the TSK3 kit on the car, he said last week it's coming from a different place.

Look around further, there are more vacuum hoses that need to be zip-tied. Some are behind, under the intake manifold. Then look more, any vacuum hose should be zip-tied.

You sound like my son...LOL

Got the 8 hex head flywheel bolts and torx plus tp50 from Fred Beans yesterday.

Why only a 35r why not go a little bigger ? We had a GT3576R on a 1.6L. You know you will need a roll bar once you hit 11.50 then it's more bars when you get faster. Ten's is not cheap...

opps change of plans, GF reminded me we need the wagon next week. I have a 2 day appointment for her car to be detailed. So I'll start next week.

You should spray the rubber hangers with some PB Blaster and remove the mufflers and start the car. You may like it. If not put them back on and add the washers.

I will be contacting you soon. Cute I'll PM you in a few.

I wouldn't want much for it, and I rather it went to someone local. I'm in the south east corner of Tolland just off rt32 by the old mill and fire station north of Willington pizza.

Yes, he bought a house in Vernon last Fall. When I placed the order from his website, I had the stuff 2 day's later. He hasn't updated his site lately but he's been busy.

I'm replacing the short block because mine uses a lot of oil under boost. I know the engine was abused when it was running 18-21psi for a short time years ago with out a proper tune. I plan to keep the car for a few more years and I'm tired of adding oil 2-3 times a week. I'm also dropping my home PC (crashes alot) off at the repair shop after work today before I start disconecting the engine. I'll take photo's but may not be able to post them from the GF's lap top. It's a HP and a pain to use. I hope to have the PC back soon. I figure this whole engine R&R should take a couple of weeks. I have my own engine hoist and engine stand so I'm under no pressure to have it out because I have to return the hoist. But I don't want to waste to much time either. I'll remove the external items from the engine than drop the old long block and the new short block off to my buddies machine shop and have them give me back a long block after they freshen up the heads. I guess I'll offer the old short block up for sale if someone wants one to rebuild that has not blown up. I have new flywheel bolts and a torx plus 50 coming from Fred Beans, I have to call them and give them another CC# because the bank called on Monday and said that card had been compromised. If it ain't one thing its another... I'll wait to inspect the oil pick up tube before I decide to buy a after market one. I have Mike at AZPinstalls getting me a oil pump, I did buy the Spec clutch from him and the replacement bearing for the TSK3 kit that is on the tranny. Spec sent me the insert for the FW. I bought the ARP head studs and NGK plugs from my Tuner, Tuning Alliance. Think that's it for now, time to go to work.

I asked Mike a few weeks ago, he said just to do a few logs on the new engine but everything should remain the same. I did ask him yesterday about having the head P&P. I know the guys at Eastwoods machine shop will want to do it. I just don't want to have to supply more fuel if the heads flow much better. To answer the question, It's going in the wagon.

Note to everyone viewing this, I'm trying to re-post the photos that Photobucket has made blurry, I have about 80 pictures in my file if you need to see more, PM me. You can see the photos at the post on Sept 23 2019. On page 17 Well figured its time to post up my own thread. Over the past weeks I have been collecting parts. http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4650.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4652.jpg http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/DSCN4653.jpg That's a EJ257 short block, Spec 2 clutch and new flywheel insert for the Aluminum FW in the wagon. Edit, (Oct 15 2020) that Spec 2 only lasted 50,000 miles, I replaced it with Spec 2+, much better clutch for this set up. I'm also back with the Spec LWFW with new Friction surface. I will use the vf52 that has about 11,000 miles on it now. Edit April 13 2017, yea it took that long, here's the part numbers, EJ257 short block 10103AC050 $1775.00 Gasket set for a 2005 GT 10105AA720 $214.07

FWIW, I'm catless with Invidia pipes and stock mid and cans and have no drone. WIth 2 washers. You may want to think about a muffler where the mid pipe and resinator are and do muffler deletes with nice chrome tips. My 09 Spec is mufflerless with stock exhaust, sounds great at Cobb stage1.

I'm still amazed by this car and what you've done with it. Thanks for the update. Be sure and let us know how fast it is...