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I'm sure you would have a difficult time getting Subaru to fess up to a problem. All I know is what my Tuner mentioned and what my buddy who own's a machine shop has seen. He's the one that figured the problems he's seeing could be caused by the flaw in the OEM MAP. If you asked one of the Tuners, maybe they could tell you. I know that Cobb AP can not be detected. I have down loaded the AP when I took mine in for the ECU recall years ago and other times the car had to go to them.

I believe so, but I'm no expert on Cobb's map's. I would think by now most Sabaru Tuners know of the problem. May be someone from Cobb could tell you. That could be a question for the Tuning Forum.

Don't over think this. If the oil meets the manufacture requirements it's ok to use for the engine. IMO people make way to much out of this. Just go buy any name brand oil that meets the spec's for the engine. The over all differences are so small you'll never notice. You should be more conserned about the flaw in the OEM tune that causes detenation then which oil you use. Tuners have found the flaw and can fix it with there own maps. That will reduce cylinder pressure and save the bearings and the valves. But that's just my opinion.

I saw a nice Gray Spec B outside my Eye Doctors in E.Windsor CT yesterday about 4PM. The guy looked to be in his Late 20's. I have the black GT wagon 5MT

May be it's just me...but...I would not put 20w50 in my Subaru 2.5 engine. I do like the Eneos 5w40 idea in the warmer months.

I was talking with my engine builder yesterday. When I told him what I had learned from this thread. He said he would still use Wiseco's in my engine. He can put it together so things are nice and cossy. He does a lot of work for the local Subarus dealers. He has built other high HP Honda's for us. I'll trust him and go with the Wiseco's. I'm not looking for a lot of hp just around 380 at the crank for my DD. He did say he has seen a of these engines (turbo-charged) with spun rod bearings and/or valve problems. I think most of us know the OEM ECU map has a issue with knock.

Thanks for checking in. I realize it's not a problem. I love this thing.

Figured I've give you a update on mine. It's been in there 65,000 miles. Spec LWFW and 2+ clutch. I guess it's the pressure plate that howls sometimes in 1st gear when I let the clutch out. It does chatter a bit, every now and then, but I have found if a side step the pedal in neutral the chatter will stop. Yesterday at a stop light, I didn't want the guy next to me to get ahead... can you see where this it going ? No I didn't smoke the tires. I got the rev's right and the clutch just grabbed and it felt like I was launched from a catapult. No slippage anywhere. I have learned the clutch likes to be hot. If I see the other traffic light turn yellow, I let my clutch out a bit until it's just about to grab, when my light turns green, give it a little more gas and let the clutch out. The car will launch, be ready for it. Tires may spin. At first it seemed to grab at different spots sometimes. I found that if a ran the car through the gears shifting at close to redline the clutch would return to being the same for a while. It hasn't needed that in a very long time. The LWFW takes a little getting use to. The car didn't like to drive in 5th gear at 40mph. Since I went to stage 2 the issue has gone away. Not that I do it that much any ways. Over all I'm very happy to have a clutch that I know is going to be there when I want it the most. I will replace this with a like unit when the time comes.

Don't worry, 5-30 will be fine. I use it, and the engine uses it too In the warm month's, this past year I used Rotella 15-40. Other years I just used 10-30.

I would stop buying anything from that person. The first number is the wieght when the oil is cold, the second number is when it is hot. A 5w will pump through the system quicker on start up. Hey, it's your engine...you can make the choice. The 0-40 does sound like a good idea.

^ because 5-40 is not that easy to find at walmart.

I'll update my tail. I'm at 137,700 miles, I have always used what ever conventional oil is on sale with mainly Fram filters. I top off the oil usage every few day's as needed. I think I'm arouind a Qt every 1000 miles or so. I found at the last oil change, I used Castrol 5-30, from Rotella 15-40, I went almost 800 miles before I had to add oil. I drive to VT every weekend now. A couple weeks back, didn't use any oil up and back (68-72mph), the next week drove most of the way 75+ mph, used about 2/3 qt. One way is about 140 miles. Car runs great.

I noticed the temp setting on the heater control said 22, then I remembered, where you live. This is a awesome animal you have built. Looking forward to seeing more.

While driving home today around 4:30 on Rt 84 in Tolland CT I looked in my rear view and saw me coming. Yep, another Black GT Wagon. He had MA plates. We waved and drove with each other for a while. Then I had to get off at my exit. I wonder if he's on this site ?

^ some people are never happy...they always want more. Gee give the guy a break. He's bust'in his butt trying to get this thing running. But yea, like he said, when can we see some tire smoke ? LOL Great job Frank.

Ok it's 12 minutes to noon, I don't see no video yet...

Just watched the video. ^ what he said.

When do you plan to have the exhaust finished and put up a video of you driving this beast. Inquiring minds want to know...see and drool

It's clear to see your not a car guy, he's doing this because he can. It's great that your going to Law School. If you only learn one thing from this, remember, not everybody likes to follow the mainstream. People have the right to do this if they want to. As you become a lawyer, please remember that. Don't be one of those people that think we all should conform to the liberals wishes of what they think we all should drive. Off my soap box now, sorry for the rant Frank.

Dog is thinking the same as a lot of us, why ? I understand, don't worry. It great to watch this being done, good luck.

Or will there be 2 of them like this Buick http://www.dragzine.com/files/2010/10/IMG_6837-copy.jpg

I have loosened a bunch of axle nuts, with the car on the ground then jacked it up and finish the job. Never had an issue. I think they worry that some moron will remove the nut with the car on the ground.

Catless, no mufflers, only the resinator is to loud, think I'm going to put the stock can's back on. In the sound clip sticky in the intake/exhaust thread, post 12 is what I'm hoping for. I'll wait until spring when I spend the next big chunk of money on the car for a proper 3" cat back.

You think like me. I pay someone the replace the plugs, but did my own T belt.

If your asking about the cam gears, only the drivers side is under load. Only the top one on that side is that one that is under spring pressure.