Mr. Electric Wizard

ABS light fixed! The left rear (I think) was intermittently working. I had the shop just go ahead and replace it with a used one they had on a parts car there.

My smoke test revealed a slight leak at the new recirculating blow off valve I installed. I didn't seat the gasket properly when I installed it. I was paranoid about spinning the threaded insert on the intercooler so I didn't manhandle the bolts. Also smoke came out of one of the injectors that I was having some misfire codes on and I knew it wasn't the coil. That injector had been taken out at one point recently. Thinking the wrong oring got installed when we put it back in. Anyways, they're going to diagnose the ABS light while they have it.

Cool. Mine was dropped off to a Subaru specific shop yesterday. I'll let you know what the issue ends up being hopefully.

Can't help you but I can commiserate. I thought I fixed my ABS light when I found that the front passenger side had a broken wire, but I re-soldered it and the light is still on. Going to take the car to a local shop tomorrow so that they can smoke the intake and hopefully get this car running right. I didn't realize that the ABS could affect the way the car runs, but reading your post makes me think...

I am running a new 4 gauge wire from my alternator to the battery as part of a larger project to run new chassis grounds in the engine bay. For the positive alternator cable to the battery, do I need to install a fuse between? I have some car audio wiring stuff and have an inline fuse @ 60 amps. Should I install this 60 amp fuse between the alternator and the battery, or just run the cable without, and not worry about it? What would you do?

Dang. I just looked at the price on that iWire kit ($150). I think i can probably roll my own for way cheaper. I crawled under the care this afternoon to look at the ground straps that connect the engine to the frame rails. The driver's side is pretty corroded (blue) and I couldn't see the passenger side. If that's missing it could account for some of the weirdness I'm experiencing.

Awesome, thanks! I really feel like my car has grounding issues. Misfires, dim headlight (on one side), battery not charging, etc. At least ground remedies are fairly cheap to try. I did notice some of the ground wires, where they connect to the ring connector, have corrosion. Worth a shot.

If I were to upgrade ground cables on my 2006 Outback XT, can someone layout the path the ground wires take? I know the battery ground cable goes to the drivers side of the engine under the intercooler, but where else does it run so that it terminates on the frame rail? I've been having electrical issues with my car such as misfires and a non charging battery. Car runs but not very well. I want to upgrade all of the ground connections I can. Any pointers?

One more question about the Mr. Gasket. Did you leave the o-ring on the intercooler and add the Mr. Gasket? Or did you remove the o-ring and replace it with the Mr. Gasket? I removed the o-ring. Should I add it back on?

Replaced the turbo-->intercooler with the Mr. Gasket posted above. Everything seemed to be good but then the car died. I'm getting a P0500 Speed Sensor error now. The weird part is that after I reset the ECU with my AP it runs like crap then almost dies and the P0500 code comes back immediately. Wouldn't the speed sensor be on the wheel and not trip a CEL if the car isn't going anywhere? Like it tripped a P0500 just idling. I realize this thread is going off course. I can post a new thread if need be.

Thanks again! Just ordered that gasket from the link you posted.

Thanks! That gasket would be on the turbo/intercooler joint right? And the silicone/ali gasket on the BPV/intercooler joint? Would this be like a 'make a gasket' type deal?

One more question since I've got a JMP turbo person on here with a stock intercooler. I have a JMP VF52 and it seems like the connection from the turbo to the intercooler is not correct. There is an o-ring on there but it seems like there is a shoulder or something on the turbo that is causing the stock intercooler to not seat well. I've had a boost leak, and I think it's either coming from here, or the fact that a mechanic over tightened the stock BPV, and possibly stripped the threads on the intercooler. Is there a seal that should be between the turbo and the intercooler (other than the o-ring)? Or is there some gasket material that could be added to remove the possibility that I'm losing boost there? I can get used stock intercooler with good threads, or I can tap the threads and get a larger bolt for the BPV. Curious what your thoughts are about both of these issues.

Thanks for the Turbosmart info!

Do you have a model number for that Turbosmart unit? I didn't realize they made so many different ones.

Seems like I recall reading some bad stuff about Boomba as well but if I recall correctly, it was mainly just the BOV in general. So Turbosmart even over a Cobb BPV? Cool.

Wanted to check here first before ordering. Will this BPV fit our cars: https://www.boombaracing.com/sti-recirculating-bypass-valve-bpv/

Not as of yet, no. I'm thinking that the next step might just be to take the car to him and have them be the ones that diagnose the issue (and possibly fix). The logs I sent up until the WOT pull he said looked 'beautiful'.

Finally got some of that Berryman Fuel System Cleaner that Max Capacity linked to above and filled my [new] gas tank with fresh 93 octane fuel. The bucking is still there ~3,500 RPMs but if I baby it past that point and get into the higher revs it flattens out again. It's like there's some issue right at 3,500 rpm's but before and after that it's fine. I even drove it on the freeway just now and it was mostly fine. if I move past the 3,000 rpm's with like half throttle it is fine. It's almost like it's the WOT that has the issue. Would that seem to indicate a faulty or dirty throttle body maybe?

Same injectors (stock) but I bought a new coil pack (to have a spare) and switched the #4 with the new one and the misfire remained. I have a buddy that I'm going to take the car to and have him drive it and see what he thinks.

New gas tank is in finally, but the misfire issue remains! I think at this point I am going to run some quality injector cleaner through the tank and do a bunch of driving to see if that helps. Can anyone recommend a good quality injector cleaner?

I just read this: Flashing CEL = Gross misfire. A DTC is not always stored. The resolution is generally one of the ones listed above. FYI-The bugeyes were plagued with misfires. Updating the ROM in the ECU to the latest revision from Subaru helps alleviate most false misfire issues. This can be done through the stealership or opensource software. If I have already put a tune on with a Cobb AP I'm already updating the ROM so this should be a non-issue right?

I've already got the injectors too. I just hate taking the intake off.

The shop quoted me $1,500 (labor and new gas tank) so that's not too terrible. I might keep this car after all. It's going to be a while until I can get this done though. The saga continues. These damn rusty cars.

Whelp. The shop just called me and says that the fuel smell is coming from a rusty spot on the actual gas tank. Not that this has anything to do with the misfire but it's leaking fuel pretty decently from a rusty tank. If I could go back in time and not buy this car, I would have already traveled back. Anybody ever replaced a gas tank in an Outback?