Mr. Electric Wizard

New wideband is much smaller (in the bezel area) than the one I was trying previously. This new one, with the new thin bezel works awesome.

And the saga continues. I got that Perrin Afta-MAF hose and it’s awesome, but I seemed to have trimmed my Cobb turbo inlet pipe a little too much trying to get the Perrin pipe to sit right. I didn’t quite leave enough beef on the Cobb inlet to get a good hose clamp bite. Since this is not the pressurized part of the air system, I’m hoping it doesn’t leak. If so, I learned and expensive lesson and will have to get another turbo inlet pipe. If I do end up having to go that route I think I’ll go the Perrin route this time. Seems like it is a lot smaller in diameter and should fit a little better than the Cobb. Will leave it as-is for now and cross my fingers I don’t have any misfires due to air entering at this joint. Kind of bummed but it may be okay.

I bought it from IAG. They don’t manufacture them and I’m not sure who the actual manufacture is and it looks like I may have bought the last one, as it’s no longer on the site. Just picked up a simpler model wideband (screw on bezel) and will return the one that I originally bought. If this one doesn’t work then whatever. Kind of annoyed. With the gauge pod installed (with no gauge installed) the door closes fine, so I’m optimistic.

Okay, this is getting annoying. The cubby pod that I ordered has been installed but the bezel that came with the AEM X Series wideband is too thick for the door to close. I ordered a 'thin bezel' from this place: https://www.rpsdzn.com/store/p27/AEM-wideband-thin-bezel.html This thin bezel was obviously made for a different AEM wideband as it's a tad bit too small, and there's no screw holes in it. My Wideband has 3 screws that fix the bezel to the gauge. I don't see any other thin bezels for this particular gauge. Dammit. I would gladly send my bezel to someone with a 3D printer to make me one, although I will probably just have to get creative.

Nice, thanks! It looks like the Primitive plate is just the bottom. Did you augment the stock plastic sides to work with this skid plate, or nah? I am not planning on doing any rally races with this car, so street only. Will probably get the street version with oil drain holes some time soon.

My stock plastic skid plate (lower engine cover?) Is sagging and in sad shape. Right now it’s off the car but is there a performance/cooling/safety reason to have one on there? I’ve been looking at the Primitive Racing skid plates but got to wondering if they’re actually necessary for street use. What are your thoughts?

Good to know! Thanks for the heads up!

The MAF that is on the car is really new so it should be good.

Thanks! I found the parts diagram from Subaru and ordered the stock air box nut and bolts from them. I think for now, I’m going to stay with the stock box and the Perrin Afta-MAF pipe as suggested earlier.

With the stock air box? Interesting.

Dumb question but just because mine are missing. Does the front of the stock air box connect to the body with one nut on the top (what size? 12mm) and two bolts on the bottom? All of mine are missing.

I guess what I would like to know is that are there any downsides? The lower intake temps is one thing the stock airbox has going for it. M

Right on, thanks!

A friend has this CAI that he will give to me for free. Would you replace a janky stock box: With this: I’m know I’ll need a tune and I’m about to get one as soon as I get this wideband and AFR gauge installed.

Had to get the next size up hose from the local auto parts store. The hose supplied from Cobb was just not going to go onto the PCV. Was able to get everything all connected with some 5/8” hose. It’s fun fishing wires under the intake, I tell ya!. A lot going on under there.

Thanks so much for bearing with me on this! I'm so excited that my car is almost on the road I can taste it.

Okay I think i understand what you are saying. Let me reiterate. Connect the front port of the new Cobb inlet pipe to the supplied vacuum hose, then connect the other end directly to the PCV. Then just don't even connect the white blow-by sensor to any vacuum lines and only connect the wiring harness up to it.

Correct! They do give you an extra bit of hose to hook it up. But the question I have is, does that breather hose (connected to the inlet pipe port) connect to the nipple on the blow-by sensor? If so, then how does the other side of it connect the the crank case hard line?

So what is connected to the front port of the new inlet pipe?

Basically, from Cobb's instructions, it seems that the hard line that was disconnected is just going to be left there unattached, and the nipple on the sensor is going to be connected to the vacuum hose that goes up to the front port of the new inlet pipe. So the hose connected to the sensor in this top pic would just be left there dangling. This doesn't seem right. But what do I know.

Thanks!

This is the part that I need help with. The hard line on the bottom is going to the crank case (I think) but the top piece is what used to be connected to the stock turbo inlet pipe (mechanic cut it if off of the stock inlet pipe). This is obviously incorrect. If I remove the hard line, how is this supposed to be connected? Does the front port of the Cobb inlet pipe connect to where the hard line is currently hooked up? Then what plugs into the part where my cut off black elbow goes?

I have a Cobb turbo inlet and I've got it all installed except for the crank case breather. Cobb's instructions say: Pry open the factory clamps and remove the blow-by sensor from the factory line. This can then be re-installed in the supplied vacuum line. How is this supposed to be re-installed? The factory location had a plastic piece that connected directly to the factory inlet. Not sure how to connect it now.

Never mind. Found it! Thanks for the suggestion.

Can you post a link to the Perrin tube if you don’t mind?