yeltsew

I can say in this case, the ABS light does NOT change the way it runs. I replaced a bunch of vacuum lines today and the car's back to making good power. Good luck on fixing all of yours. For now, I'm a little less concerned about the ABS light, but I still wish I could figure out what the problem is. 541 Motorsports has an ABS module from an 05 MT car for pretty cheap, so I might just bite the bullet and try replacing it.

Now this is just a guess but I've always heard that MAP sensors read "absolute pressure", with 0 being a perfect vacuum, as opposed to most gauges reading 0 as atmospheric (~14.7psi) and any vacuum as a negative value. If Torque is just reading the raw value of the MAP sensor and not converting it to "gauge pressure", 6.2psi at idle does sound about right. 6.2-14.7=-8.5psi, which makes sense. That would also explain why it's reading atmospheric when the engine's off, instead of the 0.0 that an Accessport or analog gauge would read. It might be worth finding an analog vacuum gauge and hooking it into one of your lines just to have a second opinion. Also be sure to clear your ECU and go through the whole idle re-learn procedure after fixing your vac leaks.

It's funny you mention that, I got the car smoke tested yesterday because the idle is funky and it's not boosting over ~10psi, I assume wastegate pressure. They found a vacuum leak on one of the hoses that runs under the intake manifold, which I had to order from Subaru. Knowing that, I have less suspicion the ABS code is making it run funky. Still haven't been able to figure out what the issue is though.

Hey Guys! I just bought an 06 LGT last Monday, and one of the issues I've encountered so far is that the ABS light is on. Of course, my cruise control doesn't work and I've seen conflicting information online about whether this changes changes the way the engine runs. (Disabling boost control for "safety" in case the ABS isn't working?) I figured it was just a wheel speed sensor or something simple, but when I got home and did the gauge cluster test, the codes it gave were for: C0118 - Faulty G sensor output voltage C0114 - Defective valve relay The factory service manual has a few tests for each, and I've gone through the ones that don't require SSM as much as I can. On the G sensor, the voltages seem fine when holding it at different angles. I checked for continuity between the G sensor pins and 24, 21, and 10 on ABS module connector and everything seems good there. I even ordered a used one on Ebay to see if maybe there was just something bad with the old one, since it was a relatively cheap sanity check, and the code is still there after disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. For the valve relay, I checked the voltages on the connector and it seemed to have voltage and a good ground where it should. The only thing that didn't match the manual exactly was the internal resistance of the relay, which read OL as opposed to a specific resistance above 1MΩ, but I figure that's just discrepancies between how the manual was written and how my meter reads. The only other thing I can really think is maybe some other part of the ABS module is bad and sending bad readings to the ECU for the other components? If I have to replace the ABS module, that's not a huge deal, but I'd hate to order one and go through the process of bleeding the brakes all over for the codes to still be there. Does anyone know if the ABS module has to be coded to the car in any way, or will one from any MT Legacy work? Some pics of the car for attention, replacement headlights are coming in tomorrow: