Mr. Electric Wizard

I do have a larger turbo, which is probably another reason for it. Not going to drive it until it’s tuned but I was curious more than anything. The gauge is very neat to watch.

After playing with it a bit more this seems to be the case. If I gently blip the throttle it plays nice and the numbers go up a little and down a little but when I rip the pedal, it goes up to a high number and then --- which I assume is LEAN AF. Tune-time.

Hello all, I'm FINALLY ready to start my e-tune since most everything that I'm going to do to this car has been done now. I have a Cobb AP v3. My tuner wants these monitors in the data logging: af correction 1 af learning 1 af ratio----(FA20 only) boost baro coolant temp calculated load commanded fuel final DAM Engine Speed/RPM Ethanol RAW ( If flex fuel sensor equipped) feedback knock fine knock learn fuel rail pressure----(FA20 only) Fuel pressure raw (if cobb pressure sensor equipped) fuel pump duty Ignition timing intake temp manifold Injector duty MAF Maf volts manifold absolute pressure or map requested torque roughness 1-4 sns rear 02 throttle position wastegate duty cycle The problem is that when I try to start logging data, I'm getting an error that says "Reduce your monitor selection by 7 bytes". It seems that each monitor is 1 byte, so I don't see any way that I'm going to be able to log all these monitors. Is there a way around this? (this is my first time logging with an AP, btw, so go easy on me )

Quick question, as I've never had one of these gauges. I finally got my gauge installed and my car fired up (no tune yet but coming soon). The gauge reads 14.6 at idle but when I step on the gas (in neutral) it quickly goes up then shows --- (three dashes). Does this mean that it is going off the charts lean?

Thanks for the info about the passenger side foot well. I ended up going through that same grommet but since mine is a Limited, and this grommet is where the drain line goes. I was able to pull the wires through there by just removing the drain line, passing the connector through, then putting the drain line back through. Worked awesome.

Thanks for the ebay link but can you expand on why I would need an aftermarket FPR? Is the flow rate different with these WRX dampers or something?

It was time sensitive at the beginning because my mechanic buddy had the manifold off and was going to put the injectors on while we were at it. He didn’t feel comfortable installing the injectors and new rails, so we kept the old injectors on. Now I have my car at home finally but no new injectors installed and a kit that is not ideal. Injector Dynamics might have been the choice because the stumble (if there Eden is going to be one) can be tuned out. Don’t know. I do think that once the new kit and injectors are installed it will be less of a job to remove any new lines and reconfigure. The kit has AN fittings on it. The only real difference I can see is that the supply and return lines are supposed to use nipples to connect directly to the body lines for supply/return instead of AN fittings to an aftermarket AFR. I have also heard of folks putting later model WRX dampers on the input side of the fuel rails. Not sure if a stock FPR was used or not though.

The tuner is the one that ordered this kit. It was my reading and asking a bunch of questions that uncovered the fact that I am missing a couple of dampers. Can't find too much info online about converting this specific model to top feed. I'll get there eventually. Since the manifold has to come off anyways, might as well get the crappy cob inlet pipe out and switch to a Perrin.

Yep, totally.

Thanks but my line kit is for use with a stock FPR. I might just let the tuner install the injectors and deal with any damper weirdness.

I cannot find any info at all about dampers that use the stock FPR. I guess I should assume that they just aren’t needed. If the car bucks then I guess I can figure out how to add some later.

I just went out and looked on the car and the stock dampers (#1 and #2 on the drawing above) are bolted to the top of the stock side feed fuel rail. I have Cobb top feed rails and there is no hole for the stock dampers. Can the #1/#2 stock dampers be somehow added to this new top feed conversion, or am I going to have to get aftermarket dampers? [ATTACH]295809[/ATTACH]

Okay thanks! So the two white dome things next to the stock injectors ARE dampers. How would these be incorporated into a top feed fuel rail? I suppose they can just stay connected where they are and should fit under the new top feed rails. I'm probably over thinking this.

For a top feed conversion, I've read that it's recommended to use the stock (or replacement) fuel dampers. On this picture, is the fuel damper #3 (on the cluster of fpr) or is #1 and #2 dampers as well? Thank you cor clearing this up for me.

Okay it looks like the fuel damper is part of the cluster on the right side of the engine bay that includes the stock FPR. So this install might be easier than I was thinking.

Thanks! Here's the instructions for my kit (stock FPR): http://help.t1racedevelopment.com/support/solutions/articles/4000017345-04-06-subaru-sti-side-feed-to-top-feed-conversion-line-kit Again, the strange wording is the relocation of the stock FPR. A Legacy GT has it on the driver's side away from the turbo already, unless I'm missing something. Any recommendations for dampers in this situation? The stock ones are the little white dome things between the stock injectors, correct?

Can I use the stock fuel pressure regulator too? And the dampers on a stock 2006 are on the old fuel rail. I'll need an aftermarket pulse damper right? For your fpr upgrade, did you go with an Aeromotive?

And you get the use the blow by sensor too.

What size vacuum line did you use? do you remember? I think I need some vacuum line and another line that goes to the purge valve.

And for the splicing into the factory fuel supply and return, do I just cut the stock rubber line and contact it to the barb I show below? No more tie strap into the connector to release the factory hoses?

One thing I dint get about the line kit I bought is ‘the relocating the regulator to the drivers side away from the turbo’ part. The kit is for an STI too but is the regulator on the passenger side for an STI? Our Legacy GT’s have it on the drivers side already right, so no relocation needed? The regulator is what that top fuel line is connected to right?

You mean the Cobb V2? I am actually thinking about switching mine out for the Perrin one. The Cobb is just so huge, it’s really cumbersome to deal with. I’m not actually sure that the one that I have is the V1 or the V2. Here's another thread of mine with a photo: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cobb-turbo-inlet-w-stock-intakei-287699.html

Did you finish your conversion? I'm thinking about tackling this myself at some point. Are you pulling your intake manifold and removing the stock metal fuel lines?

Oh, and while I had everything apart, I put in an Aux. input on the stock stereo.