KZJonny

I have the 2005 manual trans Stage 2 maps. For 91 and 93 octane. Available on this site as mentioned elsewhere. (If you are AT, then I can’t help you, but the maps are still there.) On my phone atm, which is not happy doing site wide searches. Cobb did remove the S2 maps from the site. If by any chance you haven’t plugged the AP into your computer lately, you can turn off the auto update. I dunno if it’ll cause a problem if you get the latest version of the firmware, but I didn’t risk it. In the event your AP firmware is pre-update, I suspect you want to keep it that way.

Curious about what the turbo specs are? I had to look up what a gt25 even is. Since yours is in a VF52 frame, does that mean it has Garrett internals stuffed into it? Congrats! Nice number for pump gas and a relatively small turbo. I wonder what my JMP custom VF40 makes, but I don’t suppose I’ll find out any time soon. Enjoy the “new” car.

I can't really take any credit for the info, just passing it along. Scottydunno and Infosecdad did the heavy lifting actually installing them into 4th Gens. I just *want* to, so I read up on it. Lots of information here. It does seem like more of the worlds trolls can now be found on facebook than forums, which is a good thing. It takes a little time to search through archives and find cool information locked away on placed like this. Easy to just immediately spew hate at the last post that popped up on your feed. (No bias here at all, I didn't abandon FB years ago, really, Hah!)

Not so much aside from price and availability. I didn’t know that they were being adapted for mechanical shifters, which is encouraging, as I’d like to retain that. You do not need to find a new rear diff, support and matching axles, which is a bonus as well. ($$$) As you note, there are lots of un-exploded 5 and 6 speed transmissions running around out there. Supposedly the transmission was redesigned with the EE20 diesel in mind, so it should hold a fair lot of torque. I suspect that if you’re not constantly doing clutch dumps, it should hold up a good long while. And if you want some extra assurance, the cost of the va 6speed + some Moore blast plates is still a lot less than an sti 6 speed these days. They weigh less as well, which I suppose is a bonus if you’re counting kilograms….

Awesome. Out of curiosity, will you be using a 6spd from a Spec B/Sti or doing the wrx/5th gen GT 6 speed swap? Who wouldn’t love the big 6 speed? I’d like to do the swap too, but at like 1/3 the cost to do the wrx style 6 speed, I think that’s the direction ima take.

Hey dude, sorry this one didn’t get any attention. I that’s likely because it has been discussed somewhere else on the forum. If memory serves, it didn't make a lot of sense to most because of the costs involved. There is a lot different in the 5th gens, and you’d likely have to install a standalone ecm, which is costly. Unless you happened across a free/cheap 5th gen engine and thought it was worth a try. I think the consensus was that EJs and 4th gens are common enough you could find a useable/rebuildable engine with the correct sensors etc… for much less than convering the 5th gen. The case is the similar between early and late 4th gens with the switch to can bus. We’d all learn something if you did it, and documented the process. I would think that you could at least swap in the EJ255 shortblock no problem, but not a whole lot else without doing a complete engine/intake/ecm, etc…. Cheers!

I’ve had this happen on my motorcycle. The culprut was an exhaust leak where one of the pipes meets the head. I had reverse symptoms in that is was bad at idle, but went away after warming up. It definitely was a ‘ticking’ noise, and kept time with engine rpm for obvios reasons. Might not be your problem, but it’s at least a reasonably easy thing to rule out. If you’ve got some ramps, or a tall curb you can drive two wheels up on, you’d probably be able to figure out where it is. For the few dollars, a mechanics stethescope is pretty handy to help track down noises lie this. https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-52750-Stethoscope-Kit/dp/B0015DLMOO/ref=asc_df_B0015DLMOO/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=293006272454&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13570374708858711911&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000774&hvtargid=pla-569409355664&psc=1

US Prices on oil do not reflect what we pay up here in Canada, unfortunately. Oil filters, for whatever reason are 4x the cost of the same thing across the border. I do not understand. I should look at Amsoil and Motul as well, but the reality is also that I like to change the oil at least annually, and I don't normally put more than 4-5k KMS on the car each summer. That number will probably decrease when I get the Datto up and running and I have 2 weekend cars. I think I'd end up throwing away oil that could conceivably be 1/3-1/2 way through it's service interval, but I'm uncomfortable running oil that has sat in the oil pan for 6 months not being used.... I probably should just start getting UOAs. Car has ~155k KMS on it, so I expect a few more years of trouble free service. Like, MANY more years, at ~5k kms each summer......

Agreed. Unless you're maybe doing a lot of track driving? I did almost all of the bushing in both my 2.5i Outback and GT wagon. IMO - the difference was much more that I was replacing shagged out and worn down 18yo bushing with nice stiff new ones. If there is a marked difference between that and a car full of poly, I'm not going to find it on the squirrely backroads I like to go driving down. I suspect that more people attribute some of the magic to poly bushes becuase they are replacing worn out OE stuff. I'd would genuinely love to drive a car with all brand new OE stuff (with better than stock struts....) and the same car with all poly. I bet the difference wouldn't be *that* big. Disclaimer: I've got some poly bushes installed myself. Not hating. Sometimes it was just a matter of price/availability/ease of install. Ie: I didn't have the right size press cups to install the front LCA rear bushing, so I threw in an Energy Suspension one. It is a little noise and clunky, but better than the torn OE bush!

Seems a little like the intent is more to suggest that the "trailered to the track" gang should not be using diesel oil? I would imagine those people already know that and would be using something race specific. I like to believe I understand scientific method (after 9 years in University sciences, I would hope so....), so when I see this, I want data. Oil analysis, wear analysis on test engines!! Pretty sure that my summer driver GT will continue to be fine on Rotella T6, but I suppose I should put my money where my mouth is and start logging UOAs. It is just a PITA shipping across the border.

Have a look at your kit. From what I can find online, trailing arm main bushings from Energy are at least sleeved in the middle, (They'd kind of have to be, given the forces they see...) I think you'll have fewer problems with noise from this type of bushing if properly lubed when installed than one that is captive and metal moving directly against poly all the time, think sway bar bushings.... I went OEM when I replaced mine, since I really didn't see this as an area when the poly was gonna help all that much, and if you *really* want to stiffen up the bushings, you can always fill in the voids with urethane.... On the other topic at hand, doing a walkthrough here would be great. There is a pretty good one over on subaruoutback.org that I referenced when I was doing mine. That car was a lot less rusty than mine tho, and he didn't break off a weldnut inside the body when loosening the big bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the unibody!! So, what should have been afternoon became a little more complicated for me. I should however, mention that I couldn't find a set of press cups anywhere near large enough to properly press out the old bushings, and the correct set from Subaru is spendy, if they will even sell you a set. I think Snap-On makes some, but the press kit +adaptor for Subaru runs like $800USD. I think this is the main reason most people go to a torch and burn out the rubber, then just cut the outer metal bush with a hacksaw to relieve the tension, and tap it out with a mallet. Cheap, easy and quick. You're removing a broken bushing, no real need to baby it... If you're doing stock steel arms: I was able to get the new bushing in place relatively easily, in proper alignment, and at the correct depth by just throwing the bushings in the freezer overnight, and heating up the trailing arms a little with a torch before install. A little bit of grease on the inside of the bores helped things along. You just need to get them started straight and in the right orientation, and away you go.... 3 lb hammer and a drift did the rest, easy peasy. If doing Spec B/JDM aluminium arms, then I would say yeah, go buy the cups. I had a *really* bad experience with the Subaru dealership attempting to install bushes in mine, and doing the job badly. Lots of cosmetic damage to the alli, and they installed on of the bushes so badly, and at the wrong depth you could see light between it and the bore. (Replaced for free....). So aside from them doing a bad job, I would not try to install bushes in the aluminium arms with anything less than the right tools. Too easy to do a bunch of damage.

Yus. Prices on dimensional lumber are down a bit, or at least, as low as they're likely to be for the next little while. Could drop again mid-winter, but that's becuase less building is going on, and I will definitely not be out framing garage in January. I do like in one of the "warmest" places in Canada, but that doesn't mean mid-winter is a time when you are working out of doors most days. It's the peripheral stuff that is killing me. Copper is still up 200%, and have fun even finding a sub panel for any reasonable price. Can't really complain too much, but it's a death by a thousand cuts kind of thing as everything is blowing right past the budget I figured out right before the pandemic kicked off. The building will be fine without siding an metal roofing until the Spring, so long as the air barrier is installed properly, so the wind can't get under the edged and peel it back. That''ll mean all winter to save up a little money to order that as the weather warms up. No more speed parts for the car for a while tho. Just got a new set of tires last week since the ones on there are pretty sad, last nice thing the old girl will get for a bit, aside from a new home.

Ready for concrete pour. Should be on Friday… pretty stoked now. Costs are up across the board, so it might just be framing and plywood sheathing with air barrier until the Spring, but even that will be a nicer place to keep the car than under a metre of snow in the driveway!

Eh. It's Quebec. Drinking age is more of a suggestion than any kind of real strictly enforced law right? MT -> Manual Transmission AT -> Automatic Transmission I think you've got a very nice car for driving, but am clearly biased if being a member here wasn't enough to explain that. Hope you get lots and lots more fun miles out of the car. Sound like you might have a good little exchange of services going on with the neighbour, if he continues to need some tech help.

That's awesome! Awesome hearing people helping people for not other particular reason than because they can, and they want to help. Was this young man old enough to have earned some thank you beers after all was said and done? Car looks good after the fix! It's being a little fussy, and if it doesn't bother your, the forget about it, but it looks to me a little like the grill insert is uneven. There are a couple of tabs on the bottom of it, that slide into holes in the bumper cover. *IF* you care to adjust it, it's really easy, would just need to be backed out a little, and re-inserted with some gently downward pressure to make sure the clips slide in where they are supposed to. It also won't create any problem if you don't so there is that. You've got the same colour/year wagon as I do as well MT or AT?... Should you ever decide you don't need a GT wagon any more, be sure and reach out here first!

Watched this the other night. Just the intro video so lots of the usual smack talk, but it should be good. Wouldn't it be nice to have a moderm Subaru wagon body available to swap things into? Aside from the debatable choice of names, the Levorg looks pretty good to me.... My OB is gonna have a 'too expensive to fix' problem eventually, and it would be nice to have another all wheel drive option than the Impreza..... It was partly these guys and the Gramps project that convinced me I could modify cars on my own at home after watching them do more serious work than they did in their early videos.

Finally had a chance to take a quick look while under the car doing some other work. I would guess that these could be used on the FSB as well as the rear, but not without a bit of nipping and grinding to make the larger bracket fit into place. Definitely not the end of the world, but maybe it would be worth looking to see if just the bushings are available, tho they may not fit into the stock brackets. (FWIW, I stuck a Cusco FSB into the stock brackets, with the supplied poly bushes no problem. I have also read elsewhere that some have recommended wrapping the bar in a few layers of teflon where it meets the poly, so that could be another option to try and tame the squeek?

Google suggests it is this one, at least the logo looks about the same: https://jmturbo.com/subaru/subaru-vf46-legacy-gt-outback-xt-2-5l-turbocharger.html So, if that can be confirmed (maybe call/email the company and ask?) then you'd be safe on that guy without a tune, since it's just a replica VF46, pretty much the exact same turbo as the VF40, except for some marketing hype and a new part number. Still check for a restrictor pill as suggested by MaxCapacity. Willing to be wrong, if there are people who can report on having some relatively high miles on off-brand turbos, but I wouldn't personally use anything but a turbo from one of the more reputable builders. (JMP, BNR, Blouche, it's a short list, though should probably also include some of the better Tiawanese ones, like Kinugawa etc... Farh Side goes through the options in the turbo wiki....) At least, I wouldn't use one for a long time, or push it too hard constantly.

Dude. What is UP with marketplace in Calgary? Jeeeez. It's like every time you'd want a thing, you seem to have found it used! Lucky man! Enjoy the greatly reduced driveline movement. I wasn't convinced the pitch stop would make much of a difference when I changed mine, and went to a group-N (manual) trans mount. I was wrong.

Turbo is installed now, so it’ll be harder getting measurements…. It that is just a pattern replica of a VF40 you should be fine, although off-brand turbos in those frames have a bad reputation around here. If it’s anything but a ‘VF40’, I would at least consider getting a used AP and chucking a Stage 1 tune on, they’re reputedly a but richer than needed, which would at least give you a little safety margin, and even the OTS maps are better than the stock one. Better to get a real tune, I think. The last owner used a non VF-40 and the engine died right? You’re now using maybe a non VF-40….. how much did that engine cost? Unless you are dead set on a VF-52, it may be worth considering having JMP see if he can make a Custom VF40 out of the other turbo you have. If you want max power at red line, if might not satisfy you, but I’ve got one in my GT, and it’s a pretty huge difference from stock. Doesn’t require a full fuel system either….

If you are able to measure the throw distance between a couple of gates, I’m sure someone can do the same on a known short throw shifter. I’ve got a Cobb installed, so that may not be the same as a factory one, but it would give you an idea. I’ve also got an unused OEM short throw in a box somewhere, if you’re looking for one.

Wanted to get the water drops out of my fog lamps. PO had installed HIDs and cut big holes in the back of the housing, so they’d get wet after a drive through rain and puddles. Housing covers from the parts box and a hairdryer took care of the problem.

I’ve had really good luck with FreeAll on things that didn’t want to come loose, if you can find it. Kroil is great too, of course, but super spendy. ATF/acetone is my go to when I can apply it well in advance. If find it takes a day or so to really work…

https://www.autoobsessed.com/collections/headlight-restoration-kit Distributor in Edmonton, haven’t found one closer yet, but free shipping at $150. Got lots of detailing you need to do? Ima keep looking, there must Be something in Ontario, but maybe not? I also want to try the ceracoat solution, I’ve done my headlights a couple times with different coatings, and nothing seems to last more than a few years at best. I’m keen to test the ‘lifetime’ ceramic protection, given the reasonable price of entry.

Agreed with getting a thorough pre-purchase inspection, specifically compression/leakdown test to get a better idea of engine health. I may be biased, since my ‘05 had plenty of minor problems when I picked it up, but they were also all relatively easily solved. That was before I upgraded to “Stage 2”, and took care of all the other minor stuff. Assuming an inspection yields good results: - do you *like* troubleshooting and working on cars; buy it! That is some low mileage action and oil feeds are an easy repair. - if you want a reliable, no nonsense daily (that will be quick…) maybe not the greatest choice? My experience so far isn’t that these things are trailer queens, just a solid working knowledge of automotive in general is required. Aside from the odd boxer engine stuff (1.5hr plug swaps), they’re really not particularly challenging to work on.