KZJonny
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Posts posted by KZJonny
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Came across this gem again a little while ago:
Note that Sudbury isn't exactly a tiny place, it's lik 170k people, give or take. This tour includes most of the major roads in the city.
Not that I've ever felt the need to defend staying at stock height with my car, but now I can at least point to this when people say "lower it!!" Hah!
Granted, I practically never take the GT back home, so the OB gets to tackle these road most time I'm visiting family. She does go up once in a while tho. Spec B struts and springs actually handle pretty well in my estimation for a street car, so until they fail and 'newish' ones from Japan dry up, I think I'll stick with them.
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I have the trailing arms and aluminium control arms only. Speed sensors had wires cut, but no problem installing USDM versions....
You need some adaptors from Cusco, since there is nowhere to mount a sway bar endlink unless yours came with the Spec B type brackets still installed. In which case you also need the odd Spec B swaybar.
Don't know anything about the diff cradle, but I would very much suspect the bushes would all be the same? Probably the serious JDM ones would be metal bushes tho, no?
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It's easier to get to than the rear oil galley port that's at the back of the engine?
You could retain the stock and put a T or Y splitter in, or just ignore it and only use the aftermarket gauge? I'd be curious to find a workaround for the dashlight, just cause I wouldn't wan to have A) use tape on the cluster or B) look at it being on all the time.
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For a few more dollars, there is the silicon/aluminium version that won't wear out no matter how many times you install/uninstall it.
Recommended by JMP who built my turbo, and it sealed up first time, no hassle.
Available elsewhere, just the first link I found.
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10 hours ago, Infosecdad said:
If I could get a LHD Levorg, I would consider doing something like this as a successor for the 4th Gen.
I still like the 4th Gen better, but it would be a 15-18yr update.
I don’t at all mean to be pedantic, but would you really need a LHD Levorg, or given the modularity of the chassis, just a fairly complete LHD parts donor?
I suppose it’s all a bit of a moot arguement, since Levorgs aren’t sold in our market, so they’d be prohibited from import for 10 years or whatever? Or have those prohibitions become more lax over time. (Not that they ever made sense here in Canada anyway, but they still stand, I believe…)
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My car is at the body shop, but I can take some measurements when I get it back next week.
Only ever driven one with stock shifter and mine with a Cobb. I like the short throw better. More effort to move the stick, but even considering that, I can shift with just my fingertips.
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No catalytic there, unless it's further back, closer to the flange. (probably not)
Slight diff leak will be just fine. Pretty common, and and easy fix down the road. $5 seal, but a bit of an annoying job.
Looks like you're all good. Open source tune should be able to take care of any CELs that might come up related to not having a cat.
Might be worth asking them to delete the lines of code related to the temp sensor in the UP pipe while they are at it for when you replace the stock UP with one that doesn't have a cat. Debatebly a critical thing to do, since online legent suggests the UP cat will detonate and take out your turbo. I replaced mine as a precaution, but other seem to have been just fine for a long time on stock.
Or look up the 'resistor fix' for the temp sensor. Many have done this, myself included and the results are just fine.
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Yeah. Exact same.
Didn't realize you'd installed other maps. Just throw the appropriate octane Stage 2 map on, and enjoy the additional little bit of power!
I would guess that if that is all the hardware you've got, you'll be fine on the OTS map, but a pro tune will get you sorted. I've been one Cobb Stage 2 with an EL header, UP, DP custom turbo and full exhaust, and all safe so far, based on monitoring with the AP.
Enjoy the ride, and good luck with the tune!
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So you have a professionally built transmission (which is working great) and an engine they built which failed again. After proper break in!!?!
I am not a lawyer and have no clue. But I am so sorry to hear that dude. I can only imagine your frustration.
If public support can help, I’m in, and bet the community here has your back.
I’m only good for parts I could help you scrounge if needed, but reach out.
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I would guess that the atv300.ptm is "automatic tranmission v.300" so, yeah. probably the right one. Sorry, but it's been a bit since I did this to my car.
To the best of my knowledge, there are no v.400 maps for Stage 2, those were all post fiasco.....
To be clear, I'm not a tuner, just a guy that turns wrenches, and follows instructions when it comes to electronics, so while this worked for me, I have throw out the disclaimer that doing what the software tells you to do shouldn't harm anything. No promises.
You DO however, definitely need that Stage 2 tune for the aftermarket DP. Ideally you do have a cat in it, since there isn't any meaningful power gain from going catless in an otherways stock car, and the lack of a cat might cause some CELs down the road. That of couse is up to you, and the hardware you have.
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It's reasonably easy, but if you don't have the management software for the AP on your computer already, I would suggest trying to find an older version than the current one, which (I think, no evidence to back this up) has been updated to reflect the "green power" fiasco restrictions on tuning. Ymmv.
If you can't find a download for that, I could probably dig up the one I found a while ago and send it to you....
Then, something like this:
-install AP Manager
-use APM to find the file/map you need and load it onto the AP -> pretty easy, it's a fairly intuitive bit of software-plug AP with desired map into the car, and follow the directions is gives you
If, like me, you didn't realize there is a second set of "green connectors" below the glove box, there is. The other set is kind of tucked up behind the fuse box, or thereabouts. They need to be connected to flash the ECM. As stated elsewhere, there are probably Utube videos to help you out. I just mucked around until I found the connectors.
Have a fully charged battery, and/or chuck a charger on the battery while flashing. Doesn't take long, but the word on the street is that if your battery is weak and dies midway thorugh, you brick the ECU. Again, I can't speak to it, but did use a charger just in case. Probably a good idea, as I found out not long after my battery was garbage and wasn't holding a charge. Guess I got lucky.
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Yeah, AT is automatic transmission.
Then you need the 2005.5 maps, vs. the 2005 ones. The “.5” is for autos.
I can’t tell from looking at the dropbox link which one that file is, but I bet you can.
This link might help?
I installed the MT stage 2 map from Relative4 (thank again!!) and it loaded up fine. Just waiting for time and money for an e-tune.
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I have the 2005 manual trans Stage 2 maps.
For 91 and 93 octane. Available on this site as mentioned elsewhere. (If you are AT, then I can’t help you, but the maps are still there.) On my phone atm, which is not happy doing site wide searches.
Cobb did remove the S2 maps from the site. If by any chance you haven’t plugged the AP into your computer lately, you can turn off the auto update. I dunno if it’ll cause a problem if you get the latest version of the firmware, but I didn’t risk it. In the event your AP firmware is pre-update, I suspect you want to keep it that way.
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4 hours ago, NORULZleggy said:
I hit the Dyno Monday, the car is finally done. the car is on 93 only Not E-85. I made 331HP/369TQ. I do have the Proof and will post it. I have all supporting mods with the new Hybird gt25 turbo (It's like an 16-18G, closer to 18g with custom wheel and other bits) it's still a VF52 but rebuilt. yes It was a Brand new VF52 from subaru that I had them custom make after about 4k miles. You can see my new 3inch on. it made the mufflers a bit weird but it's not a big deal cause the performance is what I really wanted. it made a very big deal with the flow. it's Nameless performance and the way its made they had to make the mufflers off a tad. 6200 miles on the build and now back in the garage pretty much unless it is nice in the winter days a head. I will post the dyno sheet once I get back home.
Big thanks to Max and his build link, and all the other OG's on the site for help. This took about 4 years. STI brakes next, then once the trans goes STI 6MT with DCCD.
331HP/369TQ - NON- E85 I do have the whole build list if people want to know.
Curious about what the turbo specs are? I had to look up what a gt25 even is.
Since yours is in a VF52 frame, does that mean it has Garrett internals stuffed into it?
Congrats! Nice number for pump gas and a relatively small turbo. I wonder what my JMP custom VF40 makes, but I don’t suppose I’ll find out any time soon.
Enjoy the “new” car.
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I can't really take any credit for the info, just passing it along. Scottydunno and Infosecdad did the heavy lifting actually installing them into 4th Gens. I just *want* to, so I read up on it.
Lots of information here.
It does seem like more of the worlds trolls can now be found on facebook than forums, which is a good thing. It takes a little time to search through archives and find cool information locked away on placed like this. Easy to just immediately spew hate at the last post that popped up on your feed. (No bias here at all, I didn't abandon FB years ago, really, Hah!)
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Not so much aside from price and availability. I didn’t know that they were being adapted for mechanical shifters, which is encouraging, as I’d like to retain that.
You do not need to find a new rear diff, support and matching axles, which is a bonus as well. ($$$)
As you note, there are lots of un-exploded 5 and 6 speed transmissions running around out there. Supposedly the transmission was redesigned with the EE20 diesel in mind, so it should hold a fair lot of torque.
I suspect that if you’re not constantly doing clutch dumps, it should hold up a good long while. And if you want some extra assurance, the cost of the va 6speed + some Moore blast plates is still a lot less than an sti 6 speed these days.
They weigh less as well, which I suppose is a bonus if you’re counting kilograms….
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Awesome. Out of curiosity, will you be using a 6spd from a Spec B/Sti or doing the wrx/5th gen GT 6 speed swap?
Who wouldn’t love the big 6 speed? I’d like to do the swap too, but at like 1/3 the cost to do the wrx style 6 speed, I think that’s the direction ima take.
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Hey dude, sorry this one didn’t get any attention.
I that’s likely because it has been discussed somewhere else on the forum.
If memory serves, it didn't make a lot of sense to most because of the costs involved. There is a lot different in the 5th gens, and you’d likely have to install a standalone ecm, which is costly. Unless you happened across a free/cheap 5th gen engine and thought it was worth a try. I think the consensus was that EJs and 4th gens are common enough you could find a useable/rebuildable engine with the correct sensors etc… for much less than convering the 5th gen. The case is the similar between early and late 4th gens with the switch to can bus.
We’d all learn something if you did it, and documented the process.
I would think that you could at least swap in the EJ255 shortblock no problem, but not a whole lot else without doing a complete engine/intake/ecm, etc….
Cheers!
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I’ve had this happen on my motorcycle. The culprut was an exhaust leak where one of the pipes meets the head.
I had reverse symptoms in that is was bad at idle, but went away after warming up. It definitely was a ‘ticking’ noise, and kept time with engine rpm for obvios reasons.
Might not be your problem, but it’s at least a reasonably easy thing to rule out. If you’ve got some ramps, or a tall curb you can drive two wheels up on, you’d probably be able to figure out where it is.
For the few dollars, a mechanics stethescope is pretty handy to help track down noises lie this.
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US Prices on oil do not reflect what we pay up here in Canada, unfortunately. Oil filters, for whatever reason are 4x the cost of the same thing across the border. I do not understand.
I should look at Amsoil and Motul as well, but the reality is also that I like to change the oil at least annually, and I don't normally put more than 4-5k KMS on the car each summer. That number will probably decrease when I get the Datto up and running and I have 2 weekend cars.
I think I'd end up throwing away oil that could conceivably be 1/3-1/2 way through it's service interval, but I'm uncomfortable running oil that has sat in the oil pan for 6 months not being used....
I probably should just start getting UOAs. Car has ~155k KMS on it, so I expect a few more years of trouble free service. Like, MANY more years, at ~5k kms each summer......
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28 minutes ago, Pleides said:
Just food for thought. The urethane bushings didn't noticeably improve the handling and drive me mad now.
Agreed. Unless you're maybe doing a lot of track driving? I did almost all of the bushing in both my 2.5i Outback and GT wagon.
IMO - the difference was much more that I was replacing shagged out and worn down 18yo bushing with nice stiff new ones. If there is a marked difference between that and a car full of poly, I'm not going to find it on the squirrely backroads I like to go driving down. I suspect that more people attribute some of the magic to poly bushes becuase they are replacing worn out OE stuff.
I'd would genuinely love to drive a car with all brand new OE stuff (with better than stock struts....) and the same car with all poly. I bet the difference wouldn't be *that* big.
Disclaimer: I've got some poly bushes installed myself. Not hating. Sometimes it was just a matter of price/availability/ease of install. Ie: I didn't have the right size press cups to install the front LCA rear bushing, so I threw in an Energy Suspension one. It is a little noise and clunky, but better than the torn OE bush!
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Seems a little like the intent is more to suggest that the "trailered to the track" gang should not be using diesel oil? I would imagine those people already know that and would be using something race specific.
I like to believe I understand scientific method (after 9 years in University sciences, I would hope so....), so when I see this, I want data. Oil analysis, wear analysis on test engines!!
Pretty sure that my summer driver GT will continue to be fine on Rotella T6, but I suppose I should put my money where my mouth is and start logging UOAs. It is just a PITA shipping across the border.
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1 hour ago, Jolbaru_LGT said:
Hmmmmm, well that's just great. I got Energy Bushings a while ago, just waiting to do this install. Thought it would help with weight, towing, etc. Could it be they just weren't lubed properly?
Have a look at your kit. From what I can find online, trailing arm main bushings from Energy are at least sleeved in the middle, (They'd kind of have to be, given the forces they see...) I think you'll have fewer problems with noise from this type of bushing if properly lubed when installed than one that is captive and metal moving directly against poly all the time, think sway bar bushings.... I went OEM when I replaced mine, since I really didn't see this as an area when the poly was gonna help all that much, and if you *really* want to stiffen up the bushings, you can always fill in the voids with urethane....
On the other topic at hand, doing a walkthrough here would be great. There is a pretty good one over on subaruoutback.org that I referenced when I was doing mine. That car was a lot less rusty than mine tho, and he didn't break off a weldnut inside the body when loosening the big bolts that hold the mounting bracket to the unibody!! So, what should have been afternoon became a little more complicated for me.
I should however, mention that I couldn't find a set of press cups anywhere near large enough to properly press out the old bushings, and the correct set from Subaru is spendy, if they will even sell you a set. I think Snap-On makes some, but the press kit +adaptor for Subaru runs like $800USD. I think this is the main reason most people go to a torch and burn out the rubber, then just cut the outer metal bush with a hacksaw to relieve the tension, and tap it out with a mallet. Cheap, easy and quick. You're removing a broken bushing, no real need to baby it...
If you're doing stock steel arms: I was able to get the new bushing in place relatively easily, in proper alignment, and at the correct depth by just throwing the bushings in the freezer overnight, and heating up the trailing arms a little with a torch before install. A little bit of grease on the inside of the bores helped things along. You just need to get them started straight and in the right orientation, and away you go.... 3 lb hammer and a drift did the rest, easy peasy.
If doing Spec B/JDM aluminium arms, then I would say yeah, go buy the cups. I had a *really* bad experience with the Subaru dealership attempting to install bushes in mine, and doing the job badly. Lots of cosmetic damage to the alli, and they installed on of the bushes so badly, and at the wrong depth you could see light between it and the bore. (Replaced for free....). So aside from them doing a bad job, I would not try to install bushes in the aluminium arms with anything less than the right tools. Too easy to do a bunch of damage.
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Yus. Prices on dimensional lumber are down a bit, or at least, as low as they're likely to be for the next little while. Could drop again mid-winter, but that's becuase less building is going on, and I will definitely not be out framing garage in January. I do like in one of the "warmest" places in Canada, but that doesn't mean mid-winter is a time when you are working out of doors most days.
It's the peripheral stuff that is killing me. Copper is still up 200%, and have fun even finding a sub panel for any reasonable price.
Can't really complain too much, but it's a death by a thousand cuts kind of thing as everything is blowing right past the budget I figured out right before the pandemic kicked off. The building will be fine without siding an metal roofing until the Spring, so long as the air barrier is installed properly, so the wind can't get under the edged and peel it back. That''ll mean all winter to save up a little money to order that as the weather warms up.
No more speed parts for the car for a while tho. Just got a new set of tires last week since the ones on there are pretty sad, last nice thing the old girl will get for a bit, aside from a new home.
JDM rear suspension
in Suspension/Brakes
Posted
I think I must have been under some kind of impression that the JDM Spec B endlink bracket was unique somehow. Seems not?
So, if just depends on how complete the kit you got was. Around me, they mainly seem to come with the swaybar and mounting brackets sold separately, so I had to get my own (cusco) brackets, then got the mounting point reinforcements at the same time, since it all had to come from Japan anyway. Fits my aftermarket swaybar just fine now. Had to drill a new hole to make the support brackets work, but not a big deal there.
traildogck on outback.org apparently makes then as a direct fit for usdm cars, if needed.