KZJonny

Just now, boxkita said:

i love my collection of ecm t's.

the grey from last year was good.

for @KZJonny let's do black.

we can get silver or white sharpies

 

I actually have a pile of silver sharpies I can borrow from work for the week. That would look pretty cool, sliver on black. Might actually be a shirt I would try hard not to destroy.

One medium please dude!

I don’t have a large tee in my collection of hundreds. Hah! Unlikely I’m getting much bigger at this point.

I'm game, in any colour but white/heather if possible. I do wear mine from last year, but everything I do dirties things and ruins them, haha!

Dark colours have a chance of surviving my life.

Probably a smarter tow car than the GT.

Glad to hear you'll be staying for a while.

Did we ever get any traction from any of the other New England crowd? Sounds like @jaylew is hitchhiking. Any chance @Max Capacity is coming around to say hello? Doesn't add to the GT count any longer, but a turbo Outback seems like a decent second best.

Can’t take credit for the parts diagram. That was @Infosecdad.

I was just being sarcastic.

But glad that it’s working out for you. Kind of a crazy DIY on the 6/4 wire conversion, but great that it can work at least.

5 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

I seem to recall the TGV's to Heads are a metal gasket with orange rubber ?  Picture from April 2012.

 

The early ones are. At some point they switched to a sort of dimpled papery/metallic kind of gasket.

Don’t have the part numbers handy, but the 05/06 style is stainless + rubber, and later is not. Original type is also super expensive, etc….

58 minutes ago, alex0856 said:

Between that and the deadening on the transmission tunnel, I can hardly hear that classic subaru 5MT whine.

Hah! Yeah, I get that.

Posted elsewhere, but I was surprised at how much more noise is transmitted to the cabin with my freshly installed Group N motor mounts. I can't imagine using poly on anything less than an actual track car, it must cause quite a racket.

That said, with pretty much all Group N or uprated OE style rubber and bushes in the car, it handles freaking fantastic.

I just get to listen to every grumble, whine and chatter the clutch/trans makes now. Which is a lot. It's a good thing that I enjoy those sounds, or I would be doing what you did with the sound deadening.

On 5/10/2024 at 3:23 PM, BoozeRS05 said:

PSA - regarding Max’s comment, always make sure you can remove the fill plug first when servicing the rear diff  

Done and done.

Diff cover replaced over the weekend, plugs came out easily enough with the 1/2' impact gun.

However, since I did not drop the trans, and had already ordered blast plates, the 'to be installed' parts pile is already started again. How?! I just finished clearing that shelf over the past few months. Ugh.

Things are still pretty hunky dory.

The feedback knock is still pulling timing in mid-throttle randomly. It always has a little, so I just got used to it, and I suspect it is partly the shuddering of the new clutch, which can be pretty noticeable from time to time. I would also suspect that the half tank of gasoline from last fall that I topped up with 94 octane to try and freshen it up is probably not the best fuel at this point in time. So... all the more reason to be gentle with it until I can get a full tank of known fresh 91 into it and see if that changes things a little.

If it persists after the clutch is all bedded in and smooth, then I'll start logging somehow and sifting through the data. I did give the car some WOT on the highway, gently, as in I worked up to it, and it is 100% fine on the monitors at maximum effort, so I don't think there is anything mechanically wrong. I've got some miles on it now, and aside from the smell of clutch and burning crud off the exhaust system, all seems to be good. No reason to suspect any mechanical problem. Idle is even a little smoother than I remember, but that might be the valve lash all being super-uniform helping a little.

I also notice that I think I am not hitting max boost like I used to, but I wonder if that is because of the Grimmspeed 3-port that is installed as a 2-port for now. It may be that the 17psi I would get to before was perhaps overboost becuase of the uprated VF40 and the factory boost controller not being up to the task. That said, I also have not truly punched it hard yet, because of clutch break-in. So maybe I'll see higher boost once I get a chance to really stab the throttle off the line.

Now, to figure out how to log with an AP and look at that? Or do I just get a tactrix cable and learn how to pull learning views? I am not sure which is the better diagnostic tool.

Probably also means I should hurry up and install the fuel pump controller + wiring and start getting tuned. The VF52 and injectors will be a next year problem.

46 minutes ago, Code said:

I like this. No concern about my price, just my skills.  My kind of boss.
 

 I provide IT/infrastructure engineering support for tv broadcasts at major sporting events.  Lots of golf tournaments, football games, horse and auto racing  Olympics, that sort of stuff.  

So like a bunch of rusty, semi-fast mid-size wagons and sedans pretending to race car on a speed limited track on a Monday?

Hired!

29 minutes ago, nebula72 said:

I'm thinking that will be my plan if I get jammed up with the install. Maybe the gaskets will be ok to reuse?

I'm looking at possibly going with either the perrin or cobb V2 turbo inlet for longevity. I'm trying to find out which is the least painful to install. 

I doubt there is much to choose from between the two, really. Mishimoto makes one as well, just to make the choice harder.

Are the gaskets you used the sort of 'papery' kind? I would think this soon after install you'd be good to reuse them anyway. I only ask because I went ahead ahead and resused my 20 year old IM gaskets on my engine rebuild, but they are the type that are stainless steel with thick rubber inserts. I have no problems with them so far, and no indication of any boost leaking, etc...

1 hour ago, Infosecdad said:

This looks like it in the Subaru Parts diagram: https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-4AT-WAGON/_54102_6024414/EXHAUST/B13-440-02.html

Looks like there is an extension cable in the mix as well, hard part is probably trying to find it, which might be why you are looking at what the previous owner did,

Did you get an OEM 02 sensor for your #3 replacement?

Oh geez... that parts diagram makes my head hurt. Soo many sensors. And where is the turbo? 

Could try asking around on subaruoutback.org

That sight has a larger membership as it is far more inclusive of the NA cars than here, where 98% of owners have a GT (or two...).

Suspension is similar, and parts of the driveline, but the cars are really pretty different and there just isn't as much specific expertise on the 2.5i in general. As in, we know about them, and plenty of general knowledge about cars, but I suspect you're more likely to find someone that may have swapped a Forester trans into a 2.5i over there than here.

It also came to me that if you find the right Forester trans, the front CVs will be male on both ends just like your Outback ones. Maybe look around for a different Forester trans if they are cheaper. Someone around here found out their car has an NA Forester trans in their car that doesn't really belong, but it's working for now anyway, so the swap can definitely be done.

I doubt the lengths will be spot on, but you may get lucky.

Ask around for a place that makes custom driveshafts near you. If the cost of shafts is going to make up the difference between a Forester and Outback transmission, then get the Outback/Legacy trans and save the headache.

If it is much less, the get the trans and try. Worst case you now have one-off CVs that you have to rebuild ‘coz they’re not readily available.

Can be done without removing the IM.

This assumes you have small hands, hose pliers and lots of patience.

Aftermarket silicon intakes are debatably a longer term solution, but probably slightly more difficult to install?

Probably? What year for everything?

if the lengths match after swapping the joints, then all good.

Why a Forester trans? Plenty enough Legacy ones going around that make things easier.

14 minutes ago, JJBerk said:

Address sent! Thanks.

 

Hope you all are treating g the mommas in your life like queens. We moved from one campsite to another, 2.5 hours away. Here until Thursday. 
 

camp one in the Potomac near MSprank

camp 2 at Natural Chimney, VA

 

why the hell are my pics upside down??

You too? I thought it was just the mushrooms I ate. Good to know.

Either keep your NA car and spend the money on suspension to make it more fun to drive, or sell it and buy a turbo car.

It will be far cheaper than trying to swap in a turbo engine, and you won’t end up with a one-off car that doesn’t use standard parts, etc….

Several cars for sale in the classifieds right now that are great candidates.

Well, tidied up the rear end with a new diff cover and CV + a diff bash guard.

Took her out for a cautious spin, and everything seems alright.

Knock feedback pulled a bunch of timing when I first merged on to a highway ramp, but then did not again on any other acceleration. This is all being pretty gentle because new clutch. No WOT pulls for a while. So, I’ll keep an eye on that, and deal with it if it persists, but I suspect it is more to do with the ECM. relearning after being unplugged for weeks.

Clutch is chattey sometimes, especially going into 1st and reverse, but brand new, so I expected this. I also either forgot how light the pedal feel is on this car, or flushing the clutch with fresh fluid made a bigger difference than I expected it to… very light pedal, an the engagement point has moved a little, I would say, as well.

Either way. I’m looking forward to spending some hard earned time with the car.

Oh! And I wasn’t expecting how much noiser the group n mounts would be. Happy to have them, but I can definitely hear all the transmission noise now. Fine by me, more mechanical music.

Dropped the diff to replace the broken/leaking cover.

Replaced the last OG CV axle + installed a Primitive diff guard.

But it’s Mishimoto brah! +5hp!

Yeah. Here they’re just called Spec Bs.

Probably the same, but we don’t get the 2.0L engines, if that is one of your options.

No idea what the ADM cars have for sensors etc…. Few on here deal much with model and market specific stuff for rest of world. Too many unavailable parts diagrams and parts etc… for us to be much help.

Good luck with the search and hopefully you find an answer.

2 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Success, Great to hear. 

 

To help you not feel so bad, I found this issue after having to remove the used rear diff I just installed, because the PO had over tighten the fill plug and I could not get the plug out to fill the diff. Had to remove the diff and replace the cover 

Huh. Well, since I am also doing a new diff cover tomorrow, I will keep that in mind. I’ll be sure to take the fill and drain plugs out before install to make sure they are removable.

Easier to do on a workbench where I can hit them with the big dog impact if needed.

On 12/1/2023 at 9:09 AM, KZJonny said:

- install AOS - nope

DONE!!

On 12/1/2023 at 9:09 AM, KZJonny said:

- ideally, install SMFW and Spec Clutch (probably won't happen) HAPPENING!!! Like this weekned!! April 20th

DONE!!

On 12/1/2023 at 9:09 AM, KZJonny said:

- install oil press gauge (?where?) - ahah.....HAHAHAH!!

1/2 Done. Sending unit installed and professionally zip tied in place. Just needs wiring. It will probably not get mounted in any kind of proper holder for a while, just sneak the wiring under the dash and have the gauge hang out somewhere for a while. But I will at least be able to keep an eye on oil pressure after the refresh.

Jeeez. 20 days until June, and I still need to put insurance on the car and... like, wash it. Yikes.

I suspect that the list will not be completed this year either, but there is chance I can get the rear diff sorted out before the meet anyway. I have all day this Saturday. If I can just get that done, I'll take the car off the lift and out of the garage and start breaking in this new clutch. (Which has an incredibly light pedal, despite having more torque holding capacity than OE.) I wonder if I should have gone with the heavier clutch, since I kind of like a little more pedal. Too late now....

GT-B like from JDM? Or do you mean a domestic USDM Spec B?

In either case, the answer is probably no, because of the seatbelt and occupancy sensors. If the donor seats have all the same sensors and airbags, then it shouldn’t be too bad.

There are workarounds for the sensors as well, do a site search and you should find some answers.