KZJonny

Pm sent.

Genuinely curious about the price difference at the moment. I don't remember paying a whole lot more for the the AEM. So... if it is regarded, even by the guys you're talking to as being the better option, then why not? As always, spending someone else's money is easy.

Perhaps it is something more technical like higher fuel line pressure? But I would assume that a tune takes that into consideration, although I also figure the FPR would equalize that in any case. (Something along the lines of more pump than you need.... and I do have a slightly more than stock turbo etc....)

Fwiw - I was told by the tuner I’m working with, (Dave at Cryotune, so someone who sees a *few* Subarus) to get the AEM340 fuel filter and avoid the DW unit.

Didn’t ask why exactly, he just said they had better results with them, and would prefer to tune with it. This is a sentiment I’ve seen a couple times on here.

Ymmv.

35 minutes ago, laboixlacroix said:

Oh YNASB  doesn't sound as fun anymore but I had a feeling I'd be doing this anyway. Okay so let me know if i got this right; I'm going to need a new short block and will need a shop to work on the pistons and block to make sure they're the same circumference, I might as well get stronger rods that handle more hp, then upgrade the head gasket with the multilayer metal sheet ones, lastly upgrade the engine bearings with better than stock ones. Then taking care of the oil cooler and pump and figure out weather the turbo is reparable. This is what i've learned so far from this wiki lmk how that sounds ?

Slow your roll dude. 

Unless you're building a firebreather, you'll be juuuust fine on a stock engine block, as long as you take good care of it. Like Max said, a short block is the block halves, crank, pistons and rods assembled. (bearings of course as well) For the money you'll have a hard time beating the price if YNANSB. (A long block for reference is all the same, plus new heads.)

Work in reverse order of what you listed. Get the filters out of the banjo bolts (sticky/many threads on this), get the turbo checked out, and then worry about the rest.You can check for turbo shaft play by removing the downpipe and having a look, or using a micrometer. If you can move the shaft any noticeable amount by hand, do not drive it, that is no bueno. Nothing on your list aside from the turbo is critical item that will wreck your car if you don't adddress it immediately.

There are plenty of used VF40s lying around, or ones that are good cores, ready to be rebuilt. I have a JMP Custom VF40 and it is plenty enough juice with some suppporting mods and a tune. His price for a standard rebuild was ~$600 USD at the time with return shipping. (Probably more now with the economy, maybe??)  Look into it. It's a better price, and you get a better turbo back than an new OEM one.

Nice looking wagon!

Keep the Toyota if you can afford to. It will probably not break down on you at least. One better. Keep it as your winter beater and never let that sweet looking GT see salt and sand….

All those jobs are totally doable with a decent tool set, a floor jack and some jack stands. It’ll be some money in parts, sure, but for what you paid for the car?….. I think you’ll do alright. Also, if cosmetics aren’t priority #1 right now, there are a few you can skip entirely. (My gearbox has been leaking as long as I’ve had my GT. Probably had to add a total of 200mL of gear oil in 6 years to keep it topped up…)

Staying stock power will give that engine a longer life, considering it’s unknown history…

Nice buy. My favourite way to get old cars at low prices is to but them from people who get jaw-dropper repair bills and just want them gone. Usually half the ‘repairs’ aren’t needed and the other half aren’t hard, if you have the tools.

Had to listen carefully, but I second the opinions that it’s the starter. Or at least I’d start there.

It’s easy to access and worst case, you end up with a newly lubricated and serviced starter….

Doesn’t sound like an accessory belt/bearing problem to me.

I wonder if the hardware (minus motors and sensors, per iwire) from a top feed LGT might work, with those parts with the correct polarity swapped over?

Probably too much $$$, and I didn't look at prices, if they're even available. But it might still come in less than an aftermarket kit?

Edit:

Idle speed control motors - $160/side (14120AA060 / 14120AA050 ) Some ambiguity here about what fits what model and year.

~$90 each for TGV/TPS sensors, with the correct polarity.... Seems like they're the same parts, from a quick search...

So.... find one from an old Rex?!

I figure at almost $500 USD for a retrofit, the $1000CAD ($700 USD?) ID 1050x kit looks pretty good for brand new and under warranty… (nope. Iag looks better)

Too bad about the polarity not working out.

Following this topic.

In no hurry to convert to top feeds but they are cheaper to service and replace at this point, so if I can find a set of OEM top feed rails (I believe a friend has a set on his parts engine he does not need....) then I'd dive down the low dollar conversion to OE parts.

I'm going to need a proper tune rather than the OTS I'm using now, so might as well do all the mods at once before starting down that road.

On 12/27/2022 at 5:19 PM, Enlight said:

 

 

Also: +1 for Workshop Cats.

Mine kind of had to get the boot from work areas after one knocked over a container of ABS glue and walked through it.

Messy, and while I got a lot of it out, he was chewing crusted glue out of his paws for quite a while. Not the greatest probably!

Glue-boy helping with plumbing.

(Not the glue culprit, but his brother.)

Maybe a couple of relatively short OCIs performed with high mileage (high detergent content) synthetic might help to clean things up a little?

Oil system flush is probably not advised with turbo oiling being a concern…

If it was warmer, I’d offer to do the cam gear with you on a weekend. I’m in Niagara, and except for the specific cam gear tool, have all the stuff to do it….

Sounds like you need it done sooner than later and we’re about to get 2 days of rain followed by sub zero for a while. 

I'd guess it's a long shot, but being drive by wire, it couldn't hurt to clean the contact area on the sensor of the pedal. I've had great success with a product called de-oxit for cleaning electronics and connections.

I think there is also advice somewhere on the forum about unplugging the pedal connection to perform a reset, and also just trying to swap out with one from a known good car, or maybe a junkyard part. (I am just wondering if the ?potentiometer? on the pedal could be fouled or some such. This could also involve recalibrating the throttle body to the pedal, which should be pretty straightforward, tho I've not had to do it myself. (If the part number for the accelerator pedal matches that of and OB or non-GT Legacy they should be cheap and easy to come by.)

Given that the consensus seems to be that you're dealing with a mechanical problem, it may not be the solution, but it's an easy thing to rule out at least.

Ah! I see. I was looking at trying to move just the plastic skin, not thinking that it's only the charge you need to replace over time or becuase of recall. I'd never taken it apart, so assumed the charge and the airbag were integral.

From memory I do recall where those hex screws are, and hadn't thought that you could slip just the charge out by undoing the horn switch assembly. Thanks for confirming that. Definitely makes collecting a non-sticky air bag cover from a scrapyard a good option now, especially if you have a known good airbag charge unit.

Carry on then!

I'll have another look at the one on my parts shelf then.

I couldn't see how to separate the two parts, but then I didn't actually try and see how it comes apart. If it's as easy as few fasteners, then I need to take a very close look. My dash is good so far (touch wood) but I've got the stick air bag cover, and there are lots of BP/BL's in scrapyards right now. It might be prudent to try and find one with a warrantied dash and decent air bag just to have more spares on hand.

Well, colour me surprised. I certainly would've thought that the bolt buster would have been perfect in that situation.

That said, even armed with my knockoff one, and having soaked down all the nuts and bolts that had to come off the car to do the rear subframe/tank, I still ended up spinning one of the captive nuts inside the body. So, now both of my BP's have holes cut into the bodies under the rear seats to access a nut holding the subframe place.

Sometimes you just can't win, no matter how prepared you think you are.

I've had JDM import Bilstien "HD"s on both Sti pinks and the stock springs. Both were good, tho I prefer the stock Spec B springs as a package.

Been told my car is "not low enough", but it's a tiny drop from stock, and given the roads around where I live, and the off-pavement driving I sometimes do, they work really well. I'd go back to the pinks if I lived somewhere with endless smooth ashphalt, and never went mountain biking or hiking and had to get to trailheads.

Worlds better than the stock LGT stuff anyhow.

EDIT: I also did FSB, JDM trailing arms, Movetech FCAs, trans mount, diff mount new bushings everywhere etc.... when I put in a fresh set of JDM Bilstiens and swapped to the Spec B springs, so it wasn't quite a fair comparison. However, it IS fair to say that the extra .75" lower the pinks were is not going to make you a track superstar, but it does make your 'fun daily' a little less comfortable on the drive to work. IMO

1 hour ago, Yamon234 said:

Yikes, +1 for what Max said. I'd almost be curious about the results of a compression test. But you'd probably have misfire codes if that was the case. 

Does it shake the car when bogging down? 

I was going to suggest looking at your thread with the similar(ish) problems, and this also sounds like maybe a throttle control/pedal issue.

This is as good a place as any to plug one an inductive bolt heater. I picked this one up before dropping my rear subframe and replacing the tank... (Everything was rusty and fought me.)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07XNZV1RP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If I'd had the patience at the time, or didn't have to get the work done I could have camelcamelcamel'd the legit made in US  Bolt Buster BB2X, but honestly there has been nothing wrong with the Chinese made one I got. I'm DIY hobbyist at cars and whatever, but live in a high salt use area, so decent was good enough for my purposes.

I'll never know how many bolts I didn't break becuase I had this, but my guess is a couple. Each of which then leads to (usually) busted knuckles, a replacment fastener time spent drilling and retapping (or heli-coiling), replacing parts that have bolts permanently broken off in them etc..... And time spent doing all of the above.

Might not be for everyone if you live somewhere corrosion free enough, but I bet that heating up that bolt would've broken the corrosion up enough you'd be surprised at how easily it may have come free. The bonus to the inductive heater is that is fairly specifically targets the fastener (since rust is a crap conductor of heat vs. steel, and so is really good a breaking up exactly that kind of binding between rusty bits, or dissimilar metals. Just thinking if you've got a whole engine to pull down, it could be worth the spend..

All the air bags I have are the same... Even the 2.5i is the same unit as what came in my GT.

The GT wheel I have in the 2.5i is also the exact same except for having the shift buttons on it. Which, weirdly, or not work juuust perfectly with the 4EAT, just as well as they did the with the 5EAT...

Anyway, I think it's either get something like that one, collect a couple from a scrapyard and hope they're good, or have a go at drilling out the rivet in the cover and swapping the skins. From what I can see, the cover is meant to stay on the unit, while the 'centre circle' opens/hinges, whatever. So as long as the fasteners you use are up to the tast of retaining the plastic from jump off the airbag itself if/when it's triggered, all should be good.

That's almost certainly some kind of official safetly violation, but I really don't imagine even small steel bolts threaded in where the rivets used to be would shear for any reason a rivet wouldn't..... I suppose it's your face that at risk EOD.... 

6 minutes ago, puddles said:

KZJonny, thanks for the effort.  My other vehicle is a 79 KZ650 if that's what your user name is referring to.

No problem, it was a bit of a hail mary idea anyway. I got stuck at homE instead of visiting family this year, with the massive wind and snow storm that came through over Christmas. Might not have been on here otherways…

And yes. My other, other car is a bunch of motorcycles that don’t run.

I’ve got a ‘78 KZ650C. First reasonably powerful bike I owned, and the only one I have that is in one piece and runs reliably. Bought it back in around 2010, and could never quite find anything I liked a whole lot better….I think it’s with me permanently now…

Ah. I don't know a lot about '07-09 models.

I think if you can flash with the AP, the either there is no plug to connect, or yours is already mated up, so my hunch becomes a dead end.

I was under the impression that later year models still had a diagnostic mode, but could be wrong.

Of course there is the possibility there are still plugs that need to be connected that aren't related to an AP flash. Someone that knows more about the post-facelift specifics might chime in. Or, there could be some info on it that is searchable on here?

Total shot in the dark on this one, since I do not know the answer, but any chance that plugging the "diagnostic connectors" together might unlock the correct mode to read codes like those? (Eg: the same ones you connect to allow the AP to flash the map....)

Just going on the basis that the scanner is supposed to work, and I've read that those plugs are used by the dealer when doing more advanced type scanning/diagnosis.

?

No photos available right now, but I think we all know what a trans looks like.

I'm helping out another member here who is parting out their car, since it went ynansb and it was too far gone/expensive to fix. I'll be giving the car a spot to live in my driveway while we both pull some parts that might be useful before it get sent off to the scrap metal yard.

It's a 5EAT, which neither of us have any use for now, but it's not terribly high mile (23X XXX?kms) and functioned fine before the engine ate a bearing.

Just one of those things that are too big to store for any time, and I really can't be asked to list on Ebay or whatever since I'm not well set up to ship it.

Putting this up since the car will be here next week, most likely, and the faster it gets stripped and gone again, the sooner I get my spare driveway spave back. Car is in St. Catharines ON, and if anyone wants it for a spare or to use as a rebuildable shell, it's yours for the taking, and help dropping it out of the car. A couple of craft beer go a long way for motivation to drop it in the crap cold weather....

Car can probably live here as long as until the first decent Spring weather, at which point it all has to go, since the driveway is my access to the back yard and garage.

Cheers!

If you’re really strapped for cash, that looks like it wouldn’t be more than a foot or so of hose between the two of them.

I would guess it’ll be under $10 for a foot of high pressure/temp hose and some clamps, if you think it’s possible to make a route for them that doesn’t create a kink….

Not always possible, but if it works you stand to save a pile. Maybe depends on the condition mileage of the car for hacks like that.

Looks good dude.

First time in a long time I’ve seen a sedan (of any make or model) and thought: “Yeah… I’d drive that.”

need to get myself some crap tires on rims so I can do the same and not damage my summers.

Sometimes getting snow in your wheel wells is the least of your concern…

I wouldn’t have it any other way tho. I’m probably going to move further North again when I’m looking to retire. It never gets cold enough in the South to feel like Winter.

Just doesn’t feel like home living in a place that doesn’t hit a solid -20C for a few weeks each winter and get 3 months of snow.