KZJonny

Internets suggest that 50nm should be safe for 10mm fine pitch in 20mm of aluminium no lubrication.

But not knowing the alloy type, a safer bet may be ~35nm or so.

This only based on torque charts. Many factors at play.

11 hours ago, Cney said:

So I caved. Didn't feel confident at all after hearing about the thickness of the bracket. I'm also the kind of man that rather have something over engineered than minimally engineered.

So I ditched the bracket I made and went on to make a new one. This time drawing it up in actual cad and using 5mm steel plate cut on the waterjet. Cold zink sprayed and Matt black finished like the 2mm thick one. They came out better than the first one.

Those do look awesome btw.

Having the gear to fold and cut metal would be sweet.

I mean… gear that is not a death wheel on a grinder + a bfh.

8 hours ago, Cney said:

Anyone have the torque spec on these 6 bolts?

You an engineer or what?!

4 dakkas should do, 70% of strained wrist with an 8” ratchet. But that is being kinda technical.

How about this?

https://www.ontariobeerkegs.com/search.asp?keyword=barbed+splicer

Check out your more local home brew supply store when you need food grade (304/314 SS0 hose joiners. They come in for almost any of the ID sizes youre likely to find on your car, and will help either replicat those pesky OE hoses that have different sized ends or join an existing length of hose to a new one.

You can find the same stuff elsewhere, but it is always 3x the price. Homebrewers are cheap bastards and won't pay the prices asked other plaes for these kinds of things. When you look at the Company 23/Turkeylord blue tee replacement @ $12USD where some of the common ones here are $2.50 CAD, and are SS instead of plated steel, it's really a pretty good deal.

I have more than a couple of these in my engine bay and around the emissions tubing surrounding the tank. Stick a ziptie on them, you'll need a LOT of pressure to blow thos hoses off, the teeth on them are sharp enough to get a good bite on rubber/silicon.

2 minutes ago, Max Capacity said:

Funny, I think I put a link to that site years ago.

Oh? Crap. Sorry Byron. Not trying to steal anyone's thunder.

I have actually meant to go back through all 14 pages lately, but have not. I had to look pretty hard to find these guys, so I was excited and wanted to share.

Got quoted $10 CAD/each for the constand tension clamps that hold the rad hoses on from the local Subaru dealership. (!)

Even with the online ordering they are a few dollars each, $3-4 USD depending on which site. This seemed a little silly to me, so I went looking around.

Found this:

https://belmetric.com/

All sorts of metric fasteners, in many of the hard to find JIS threads, etc... prices are totally reasonable. At least better than dealership, and you are getting good quality parts in any case, not hardware store stuff.

Including a good selection of constant tension clamps, the 38mm size ones for the radiator hoses were something like $1.70... so a far cry from the $40 it was going to cost me for 4 new ones at Subaru....

Clarify a thing for me. Why would you go to the trouble of the STi location turbo to only switch up to a VF48?

VF52 is a stock frame turbo and will literally bolt up to your current components if you have a VF46 right now. It's not THAT much bigger than a VF46, and will work just fine with your injectors + pump, etc... They can also be modified to a billet compressor and all the like.

Granted, going to an STi turbo will open up a lot of doors on options for future turbos, but it's not like there is a problem sourcing them for GTs.

To be fair, it's not that hard to do, but if you don't want to spend the money on an aftermarket intercooler + piping, or swap to STi stuff, a VF48 doesn't seem like the most logical choice.

Glad they look like they will work.

That VF46 will be your limiting element right now anyway, not the injectors. Then pump if OE, then injectors.

My tuner is fine to do a VF52 on stock injectors (550’s). But since I am probably going to do an uprated version of that I will need more.

I’ve been told as long as you stay in the realm of reasonable, then bigger is better. More headroom and lower IDC is good. Just don’t get 2000cc injectors for a 300hp street car…..

Not to muddy the water too much, but make sure it's LGT as well. OBXT is different ratio.

Pretty sure the autos are different than manual ratios as well, if the donor source is uncertain.

Yeah, but confirm first. It's unlikely the trans and diff are not the same ratio. (Tho possible) If the rear diff was swapped to match the Forester trans, then you're golden.

I'm with Infosecdad here. I don't think the trans would have survived even months of being attached to a different ratio differential, should have burned it up pretty fast.

If not, then you can just get the diff from the WRX as well and match the two. Probably still a better idea than keeping that NA transmission. I think it is unlikely to live a long happy life behind a turbo engine with the extra torque. And if would save you from doing the job twice.

That would mean you'd need to know the spline count and size, etc... from a WRX diff, but they probably use an R160 as well, so very possible they are the same. Biggest differences are make or female on the axles, but I would think since Subaru used most of the same style parts for a lot of years, they would likely be compatible.

It'll help a lot if you put the year and some details about your car in your sig or online profile. Save those who are trying to help from having to go looking to figure out what it is you are working on etc... (Ie: MY05/06 are the only GT that have a 4.11 final drive 5MT, I am pretty sure... it went to 3.9 after that.)

2 hours ago, m sprank said:

while we celebrate Mary's b-day at Great Wolf Lodge

PM Sent...

Yeah, that isn't a realistic option for most of us.

I want to say I was finding WRXs with donor 6MTs for like $1000 CAD around here. Lots of smashed ones now after a few years of them being around.

No adaptors needed. Same trans case as our GT 5MTs, so everything lines up. 2010+ LGT trans needs a thing ground/cut off. You'll just have to drill some new holes in the trans tunnel to mount the shifter is all. Have not done it myself, but the how-tos are pretty thorough. My trans is just in such good shape, I want to at least wear it out a little before spending money to change it for something else. Just be sure to get the shifter assy and all that to go with it, if you choose this route.

Another option that you might want to consider is the WRX 6MT (or 2010 LGT 6MT) swap.

If you're going to the trouble of changing the trans, why not get the extra highway gear, and it is *almost* a bolt up fit, you just need to adapt for it being cable vs. linkage for the gear selector.

Same final drive ratio etc... and I know in my neck of the woods, they are easier to find now with the number of smashed WRXs vs. 20 year old Legacy GT transmissions.

@Infosecdad did one and @Scottydunno has a great write up here on it somewhere.

Or go big money and do the STi/Spec B trans swap. hah! 

Ah man!! I really wanted to see your wagon coal-rolling around Watkins Glen.

9 minutes ago, jaylew said:

Ok, if there is space I may ask to catch a ride (can take the conversation to texting). I was leaning towards this option if possible but now my wife and I just picked up a rescue Malamute last week that we are working through some separation anxiety  so we'll see how she is doing in a few weeks, this might be the nail in the coffin for my ability to attend this year  .  On topic of ECM (throw back to swag from last year's meet), @JJBerk thanks for the branded travel dog bowl, came it clutch!!!

18 minutes ago, boxkita said:

idk who brought the Aligash white but I'd have another of those.

Isnt @KZJonny working on a special ECM 24 beer? Or was it he was emptying the warehouse again?  

I'll bring some beer to share, no worry.

Hopefully these joiners can be a good permanent solution to the *tiny* barbs on the GS EBCS needing to plug into the largish ports on the turbo inlet. At very least, hoses have a hard time backing off of these barbs, they have some good bite to them.

She has a fresh clutch and machined flywheel, and is sitting about where the engine belongs.

Still lots to do, but I think I should have it ready to fire up soon anyway. Couple evenings of working carefully should do it.

That particular wagon needed a new everything. I probably could have picked it up from the guy for just above what he'll get for scrap, but even then.... I can probably buy a runner that doesn't need a clutch + struts +bearings + complete engine reseal + timing belt kit, etc... for a less than the cost of all those parts and just fix things over time.

Still, even getting in one and moving around a little, I can see diggin the small wagon. It definitely feel like it sits lower and sportier than the Yaris, for sure...

6 hours ago, boxkita said:

it might be time to get an old man pickup and watch from the sidelines.

I see this lasting 3.4 days before you let that pickup roll off a cliff and go get a fast car again.

You're disappointed that one of the harder to find colours (05 only?) isn't currently available with your preference in transmission and updates?!!

I'll keep my eyes open in case there is a garage find in Canada for you!

Totally fair. Use case scenario.

Highway limits around me are like 120km/h which mean the fast lane is often doing 130km/h. Too late/I'm too tired to translate that into freedom units, but my 5MT is doing like 3300 on the highway. I would like that to be closer to 2200 maybe?

So, when I get a 6MT I would consider going even taller on 6th, but again, not the same application. I also miss the F out of living in the Portland area, what a great place.

I'll stop now. It was only what *I* would do with a 6MT.

I don’t *know* this, but I assume the Spec B 6MT ratios were designed for the JDM 2.0L, and we just got the same ones, despite having a bigger engine with more torque to take advantage of.

If JDM Spec Bs don’t have the same ratios, my bad.

Sure. I would also probably go with a Spec B trans for the same reasons.

Don’t need a DCCD for my purposes.

But for cruising at 120-130km/h, why not get the rpms a little lower even than what you normally get with that trans?

Driving in my friends A4, that thing drop to something *really* stupid in 7th gear like 1700rpm. I mean, I can romp all over his car with my GT, but he kills it on fuel efficiency.

We’ve got enough torque with the 2.5L to get highway rpms down further than stock Spec B 6th, so why not? You’ve got 5 other gears for ‘fun’… (well, $$$…

Just sayin. It’s what I would do if I was in your shoes.

Taller 6th gear?

I won't know if mine is good or bad until I start the engine again, but my AC compressor is leaking some green goo, so there is a strong chance the internal seals are going.

Is the compressor on the parts car known to be good? I would assume probably yes, given the climate down your way.... I am seriously debating just doing a delete and gaining back a couple HP, but it gets pretty humid/sticky around here and passengers would complain I am sure.

So it is just an NA Impreza. I don’t need the heartache of 2 x turbo EJs in my life. Hah!

And it is sitting around 240k kms, so I fully expect it will need headgaskets now or soon anyway. But I’ve done that a couple times now so I’m not concerned. Unless the timing belt looks super-new, that is another thing I would want to do as well anyway. But beyond that, the EJ 253s are pretty good overall, and I know I can get another couple hundred kms out of that no problem.

My favourite *looking* ones are the bugeyes, but I am pretty sure they came with an NA 2.0L, so the Hawkeyes are a little better for that. And if I decided I really want to keep it for a while a front end swap is easy enough, and there are lots of bugeyes out there for parts.

The thing I found out that is encouraging, but also kind of unsurprising is that underneath the car, the Impreza and WRX are pretty much the same. (Brakes are different of course, but I don’t think think the larger brakes are critical for an NA powered car….) More that as you mentioned, there is an ocean of parts out there for them, and anything made for a WRX is bolt up. Sti hubs are different, so suspension and brakes from them does not apply.

The used parts market is strong around here as well, since rust kills 20 year old cars that are not thoroughly rust proofed and there are always a few GD/GGs that had been modified being parted out.

Going to go take a look today anyway.