KZJonny

If you are in a hurry, just pay for the express shipping. It'll get to SA in 6 days.

BUT, you'd still have to wait on a second one to get to them. Just sayin.

Or do as @Infosecdad suggests. Any of us would get in a set and ship them to you at your preferred speed. But, the shipping costs would be a lot higher. Rockauto must ship hundreds of packages a day, and has some of the best shipping I have ever seen from a supplier. It's shocking.

Sure, I can see that as well. I just would only use OE Subaru, so I was pointing that part out. It's at the bottom of the list. ($178)

I wouldn't personally use a "Rostra" brand vvt. I've never even heard of them.

So, you'll need to zoom on the image a little, sorry about that.

BUT, RockAuto will ship worldwide, and usually for good rates. People in New Zealand I know buy from them because they are THAT GOOD on pricing and shipping.

In this case, you can get an OE SUBARU VVT for $178 CAD + $98 CAD shipping to Cape Town. Don't know where you are exactly, so I just picked a random large city.

Now, they do not have 2 x OE at the moment, but you can request they get more, and they will. I've done this before for parts they did not have in stock at the time. Either way, add in a second VVT as you should, to replace in pairs... Total should come to something like $460 CAD. Which is along the lines of $340 USD delivered.

That is worlds away from $1400 USD each.

The shipping time may offend your method of "I want this now", but for that level of savings, it seems like a no brainer, especially if yours aren't currently failing, and this is preventative.

PS - Rock auto always has a 5% discount code you can find online for looking so, take maybe $10-12 out of that total. (No discount on shipping)

Yikes!

You’re right, but the price difference is still roughly the same.

4 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

No those were the stock ones I got pulled out of the car, I just replaced them with Denso again. I haven't upgraded the injectors yet. One was pushing 32ml while the others were pushing 30ml so just replaced them all because of age.

This is the Subi part number 16611AA72A just looks like a Denso to me

My mistake. Mixing up threads and the like. I though you’d found some from a place called Snake Eaters or somesuch and rolled the dice on them.

If I was to roll the die on an aftermarket part, I would probably try the NTK just because I use a lot of NGK stuff and it’s always treated me well.

But, while $120 USD is a lot of scrilla x2, it is much cheaper than an engine rebuild because of incorrect advance at high load….

Ah crap. Are the OE Densos?

I have side feeds either way, so that’s one I’m not sure about.

Bosch and Denso are both considered high quality replacements in any event. And you went larger than stock anyway, so there is no OEM part for the job, so to speak, unless some STi has big top feeds from the factory.

1 hour ago, m sprank said:

Rafter vents. Vented eaves through rafter vents to vented ridge.  Going to be cathedral ceilings. This should allow ventilation and reduce the risk of condensation as there will be no attic.  I actually permitted my project. Doing it by the book. 

Makes sense now. I know what they are, but around me, you usually just install them at the bottom a little, to keep insulation from falling in to the eaves and stopping air flow... Maybe 3-4 feet.

Feeding into a ridge vent + cathedral ceiling makes sense that youd have them go up the whole way.

+1 to the above

Injectors are Denso (for top-feeds), MAF is Denso, A/C Compressor is Mitsubishi, etc...

Where we are lucky enough to be told which aftermarket producer is actually the OE producer, people generally will buy those if they save money, knowing there is no secret sauce in the part coming from Subaru itselt.

For the rest that are not labelled as such, it is all just informed guesses. I have 'heard' from a few places that Stone gaskets are the OE producer for Subaru, but since everything you get from the dealer is just labelled with a Subaru part number or bag.... who know? Buy Stone if you like it, or Mahle, or spend the money at the dealership.

I think the thing with the OCVs in particular is that they have a history of causing knock and engine damage under load when not OE Subaru... I only had to get the P0021/2 codes once or twice before I threw out the ones I had just installed thinking I had done the engine a favour....

15 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

What about aftermarket with OE certification?

Sincerely not trying to be stupid, but what exactly does that mean?

Around here there is OE/Subaru and everything else. Things like "meets OE standards" do not count in the former category.

I do second getting OE Subaru OCV solenoids. I ended up throwing out the newish ones I picked up from a reputable parts supplier, and they were not the cheapest available. Once I got an AP, I could see they were pretty out of synch with one another. I pulled a set from a scrapyard GT and even ones of unknown mileage performed much better, and were +/- 1% of each other out the gate.

Okay.... Canada is cold, but not like "can't drive all year"

Just that if you like a car, and want it not to rot away due to rust, the actual season for driving is not a full year... if you know what I mean.

Now, it is still really fun to throw some studded tires on a rear wheel drive junker and go be a hero doing doughnuts in the snow in a parking lot, but most of us who really like their cars here have a 'winter beater'. Something that can eat salt and sand and won't cry too much when there are holes in the floors, or a subframe rots out and condemns the car.

Too right man. And I find it annoying importing stuff to Canada. I can't imagine trying to buy from the North America to ship abroad.

I too appreciate having everything you want to hand when you're doing a job, but I suppose I kind of go the other way. I buy the sales and things I want/need, then schedule a day to do the work when I am looking at a pile of speed parts all in one place. I want to say my clutch kit was on a shelf for 1.5 years waiting for install. The AOS was probably almost 2 years. Lol!

But since driving season here is only ~ half the year, and I have lots of other go fast stuff, it's a bit less painful having to put off those installs. I would assume that you have salt-free roads like.... 365 days a year.

One of those palces where buying known/name brand stuff pays off I guess...

All my intake junk happens to be Perrin, but that was the first thing I found lightly used and cheap. Mishimoto is also good.

Everything else is Grimmspeed, which on the level of casual observation is even nicer than the Perrin, but on the other hand, it all functions well. So, hard to complain there.

MAY be worth noting that Perrin makes a turbo intake (of course) but also a pipe that call the "Afta-MAF" to come out the airbox and joing the inlet. A short peice of aluminum pipe is supplied to join the two, just as you suggested. It's not like intake sees meaningful vacuum, so that would be totally fine if you went the route.

I can also attest that the 340 LPH pump is juuust fine on a more or less stock system. I installed an AEM 340 on the advice of my tunrer + an STi fuel pressure regulator to get rid of the monstrous double-dampered stock LGT one, and threw a 10 micron filter and pressure gauge in line as well. Pressures are good, and the return system does it's job nicely. I can post up a photo later, but there are a thread or two on the subject alread.

Worth remembering that the fuel pump voltage is stepped by the fuel pump controller as needed: 33/66/100% So, having a slightly larger pump doesn't mean that your running too much fuel all the time and heating it up. The pump supplies fuel based on demand.

7 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

'04 STis use the same 5x100 bolt pattern. It's why swapping front rotors and calipers (with an acceptable bracket) is so easy. 
 

The only difference, that I can imagine, between the STi vs LGT front dust shields would be obviously the larger diameter STi shields, and a larger opening for Brembo calipers. Don't quote me though. 

Sorry, I realize I wasnt being clear.

I meant the bolt pattern on the other side of the hub/dust sheild. The two hubs look similar from the photos on Rockauto, but there is just enough of a difference in shape that the bolt holes for the fasteners between the knuckles and the hubs might not be in the same places.

This should presumably be an easy fix provided they're not out by a mile. It's thin metal and should be easy to widen the holes to accomodate.

The STi rotors are bigger, so yeah, presumably the sheils would be too, by a little, but they aren't enormously bigger, and I really sort of doubt it would look too funny. If you really just want some dust sheilds that aren't 70% rust, it's probably a great thing to try out.

Turns out @Infosecdad is a hero and has a set available, so I am going to go that route instead. I played guinea pig with the STi rad mounts forever ago, and don't mind spending money to find a thing out, but in this case, I might as well just replace knuckes +sheilds all at the same time with nice units instead of messing around one peice at a time. My calipers could use a coat of black paint as well.....

6 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

it's probably good practice to have the steps written down in sections on a board and having them checked as they're completed.

I'll consider this for next time. My memory is freakishly good for things like this tho, so I generally do pretty well with projects. Still, it doesn't hurt to have a check list to remind you to put on the damn inspection cover. (realistically, I can drive without it, especially with the big Primitive Racing skid plate protecting the underside, but still... it should be there, so I will replace it.)

On the plus side, I found the alternator mounting bolt!

24 minutes ago, silverton said:

It's a lot less work to have someone stand at the back of the car while you rev it than pull the down pipe, but you do you!

I was having fun, but I do take your point. 

I, however, have nobody to ask to do such a task. So since I can't be at the exhaust at the same time as I am revving the engine, I tend to always take the most conservative path.

4 hours ago, silverton said:

sometimes the internals of the muffler will fail and this will happen.

That’s very good to know.

But would you choose not to check shaft runout because it might be the exhaust instead?

41 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

Believe it or not, I probably have a set...

Let me guess…

Just hanging out in the garage doing nothin’ ?

If by any chance you ARE coming to the ECM, there will be a box of parts for me in that beautiful white wagon.

If not, I’ll see a about having said box shipped to my NY mailbox.

How do the knuckles look? If the answer is ‘better than 20 year old rust belt ones’ then put my name on those as well.

19 minutes ago, WRX USA said:

What about 2004 WRX STi? It has 5x100 pattern and the rotors have to be at least as big, most likely bigger.

It's the bolt pattern to match the hub that will probably work/not work... BUT the '04 STi part is $25 vs. $62, so it definitely seems like it's worth having a further look into it.

Thanks for that. Maybe we get lucky and it's the same as the $15 STi rad mounts vs. the $50 LGT rad mounts?

Not the same part number for hubs from Rockauto... but the difference might not be all that big? Is it worth the $25 gamble?

Looks like OP might be one and done, but the advice stands. Hah!

Anyone ever come across a pattern replica for our front brake dust sheilds? I am striking out.

I'm good to pay OE prices when it matters, but seriously? $60 USD for a little slip of stamped metal.... I mean.. C'mon...

I suppose I could look at other models that have the same knuckles (which I am likely to replace with some Dorman units, becuase half the price.... Or maybe freshen up some scrapyard parts.) but I guess only GTs would have sheilds large enough to accomodate our relatively large rotors...

Ugh.

1 minute ago, Deltaking said:

so it's branded Legacy but it's actually a Liberty

Hah! You mean it's branded Legacy, but it's actually a Legacy.

Only Aus gets Liberties because of a naming conflict with their military veterans league.

Anyway, sounds like you've got it covered. I am at the tail end of refereshing my engine, and am awaiting a shipment of new CT clamps to replace everything, and try to delete the few worm clamps I have had to use to replace failed/rusty/old CT clamps.

This is in addition to replacing all the coolant, PCV, fuel and vacuum lines. So much time and money, haha! So very much the same battle. Not wanting to leave any 20 year old hoses and pipes in the bay.... Of course, while you are in there..... ugh.

Sorry, just to double check...

Is the GT-B a 2.0L in your market or 2.5L?

This would change the whole discussion meaningfully. Smaller engine is not going to spool up a turbo as fast. A VF52 on a 2.0L is a much "bigger" turbo than on a 2.5L car.

On 4/30/2024 at 9:55 AM, Deltaking said:

with the stuff I have already done there should be no issue putting in a VF52 turbo while with the VF48 I may have to adjust a few things?

Correct.

STi style TMIC is compatible with a VF48, LGT Style TMIC is not.

LGT style TMIC is compatible with VF40/46/52. I think you have the Godspeed/REV/etc.. TMIC? It can probably be adapted to an STi style turbo, but will involve buying more parts.

VF40/46 are the same thing, don't let the marketing fool you. A stock VF52 will spool a few hundred RPM later than 40/46. Not many would *really* notice the difference, it is claimed. A modified/lightened VF52 may spool pretty much as fast as stock VF40/46, but keep working harder a little further up into the RPM range. Certainly far enough that unless you're throwing in stronger rods, it's doubtful you'll run out of turbo.

I can't speak to availability where you are, but around here it's probably easier to find VF52 stuff than VF48, just becuase there were more WRXs than STis.

I currently run a modified (JMP Custom) VF40, and it is soo fast. Like snappy, full boost below 3000 RPM. But, since I have everything else set up for more power (EL headers through to 3"/2.5" turboback exhaust, etc....) I want to see what a modified VF52 can do. I'll get to take a ride in one shortly, then I'll decide. My gut says that I will hardly notice a coupld hundred RPM to spool up, and in hitting the stock 5MT with more torque at higher RPM (not to mention rods, ringlands, etc...) just helps to prevent from breaking things. I don't think many with a turbo that size would tell you that it isn't still perfectly streetable. Indeed one of the more common comments I have read is that the LGT + VF52 is the combination the car should have come with from factory. Granted, those people are probably more performance driving oriented than those who see it a luxy mid-size car for cruising.