KZJonny

Bottom side cleaned up, sealed and torqued. Just waiting overnight for the oil pan rtv to cure before I flip it and let the little bit of remaining oil come into contact with it.

Overkill I know, but whatever. It does say to give the stuff 24 hours before putting into use.

Tonight or tomorrow I’ll start in on more. Trim the oil pan tab, install manifolds, etc.

the heat sheilding I had on order should arrive before the weekend, so I can install all of that before dropping it back in the bay….

1 hour ago, RumblyXT said:

Oh hey.. I almost forgot! Did you remove all the banjo bolt filter mesh? I think there's 4 in total in the whole engine. Now's the time to do it before you have the rest of the components and Cam Gears on.

The one behind the Left head under the Turbo, another one on top, the oil pipe by the front of the RH, one in front of the Left Intake Cam and the last one I think it's on top of the Left head in the other end of the other oil pipe.

Also, will you be doing the 4th Cylinder cooling mod? Might as well too. I have a brand new JDM fitting from eBay is you need it. It connects on the back of the Left Head.

Yessir. One of the first things I did when I bought the car years ago.... Well, except for the one behind the LHS intake cam wheel. That one I meant to do for a long time, but only did a year or two ago when I finally committed to spending a day with my dremel and grinding down a wrench to get in there and remove the banjo. Thankfully that filter was perfectly clean. I removed it anyway. None left in the car.

+ GADT 4th cylinder cooling mod installed the summer before last when I upgraded my turbo to the Custom VF40. I didn't have the Grimmspeed Intercooler yet ($$$), and figured that little thing would probably be squeezing air pretty hard and generating more heat. So, new rad + hoses + the mod just to try and help out. The new TMIC is probably overkill for my driving, but it is a step up from OE, and nobody complains that their IATs are too low. I also deleted the throttle body warming circuit, since this is a 3 seaon car only. (And also cleaned the TB last night and reinstalled w/new 0-ring... tho it hardly needed to be cleaned, really. IT looked great on the backside too.)

29 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

I spoke to the guys who specialize in Subaru this side, they said it shouldn't affect the MAF as it will remain in the same position and the piping remains the same. My car is in at the moment, when I get it back I will be working on this next.

Too right then.

Is the purpose of this esthetic? I ask mainly because the OE setup is very good, and acts as a true cold air intake. Most if not all of the mods and aftermarket stuff out there do not improve anything in terms of performance. I've referenced CoverRussian/Shralps? experience with his tuner a couple of times when people have asked this kind of thing, and I forget how big of a turbo he had to get to before it was worth modifying stock intake. Not smaller than 16G + other mods anyway....

A buddy of mine did a 'front of airbox' mod that deleted the stock intake at/below the hood. His IATs are consistantly higher than mine, but he stubbornly keeps it for the intake whooshes. Understandable, but a little silly to me.

I reserve ridiculous intake noises for my NA engines that don't get too upset about intake temp, etc.... (Looking at building an ITB setup from motorcycles carbs for my Datsun 510/2L NA engine, for example.)

2 hours ago, Deltaking said:

I also have another Q, The stock intake box with the air filter seems like it has quite a lot of potential and capacity without needing to convert to a cone filter. If I were to design a intake vacuum where the air comes into the air filter which would fit the entire front of the air box (Air box would need to be cut open where the current air intake is) would the car need a tune? My logic says no due to the MAF remaining in the same position and the piping/box internally still remains stock.

Also one would be able to utilize the full volume of the stock airbox and the front air intake would still just look stock.

 

Probably yes. Our tunes are notoriously fussy when it comes the intake/MAF end of things. That is a pretty big change your talking about.

OTOH - stock intake is very good, and generally accepted to not become a restriction until in around 350hp, which is quite a lot.

Aftermarket panel filter is about the most you can do without needing to adjust something in the tune to keep idle happy, etc….

But prove that wrong?! Be interesting to see the results. And relatively easy to go back to stock if the MAF scaling isn’t happy with the change.

On 4/4/2024 at 11:20 AM, tysparks81 said:

The front you can swap new 5x114 knuckle & hubs.  But the rear is a big problem. 

@tysparks81 is being a bit polite on this part.

Unless you know someone who can either make a custom set or do precision machining on your rear knuckles, and also feels okay guaranteeing said machine work… forget the 114mm conversion.

You are talking probably minimum thousands of dollars to improve your wheel selection.

You could buy some really nice legit 5x100 Works wheels or summat for the same price.

7 minutes ago, boxkita said:

I forget if there are any coffee snobs. I can throw a couple pounds of non-Starbucks in my bag.

Last year @Enlight offered to bring his espresso maker to the party. I think this year we should take him up on that offer. 

Pretty sure I was getting by on instant last summer, but that wasn't my best morning of the season. 

On 2/25/2024 at 1:36 PM, kanazteck261 said:

New OEM plastic timing cover set $150

Are you negotiable a little on pricing? I'm looking at all new timing covers just because I'm doing a mild re-build, so why not.

But, I just priced out a complete OE front + rear set from Subaru @ ~$133.xx

Happy to buy second hand for a non-moving part where warranty doesn't matter much, but not for equal to or more than local dealer...

Cheers!

EDIT: Just so you don't think I am BSing.

40 minutes ago, NoviceSubyOwner said:

One caliper pin was seized on the driver side (1st photo).

That tracks.

I have always found that almost any pads except for relatively high end stuff or OE never seem to fit the calipers well. I would say that in 90% of all brake jobs I have done over the years (my own, but dozens of brake jobs for others....) the ends of the pads where the small extension (tab?) fits into the notch in the caliper, or whatever other arrangement thay have to mate up, needs to be filed down to allow the pad to slide freely.

I want the pad to not be loose, but have practically no drag when you move it around manually in the calipers. I then coat all the filed surfaces with high-quality anti-sieze and do an annual inspection of my brakes to check for anything sticking. Even better if you have a minute to re-paint the tabs you filed down to make the pads move freely, but I seldom have time for such things when throwing some new brakes into a car with the discount hardware provided...

So... I tend to buy the best quality pads I can afford for my own rides, and whatever the person wants if I am doing the job for a friend or whatever as side hustle.

Slide pins are probably seizing on the corner that is badly worn out.

Remove all, clean pin + bore and lubricate with (only) silicon grease.

4 hours ago, JJBerk said:

I’m always game for cooking/ helping to cook. We do homemade piazzas often- that’s a great idea, maybe even for a couple of nights for those staying a bit longer? 

Sure. I don't think we need to have a meal planned for each night. Just figured maybe a couple would be fun as a collective thing for those interested. Might be worth looking for a local grocery store that could sell dough? But I'm also very happy to make some, especially if there is room in the fridge to let it bulk ferment for a day, etc.. I have a pizza steel I can throw in the car as well as a peel and some other related junk.... works well on a barbeque as well if the weather is good. (Is the barbecue propane or plumbed into fossil gas? I would assume the former given how remote the house is...

Easy barbecue meal (burgers?) + salads would be another slam dunk I figure, but I'm just throwing ideas out there. I can *very* easily live on raw veg + hummus + crusty bread & pickles for the length of time we're staying.

We have lots of time to work this out, but getting the ball rolling in advance isn't such a bad idea either.

Is this a good segue into figuring out a little meal planning?

I suppose we can easily enough say everyone is on their own for brekky and lunches and what have you. (Have to assume there will be some group driving places maybe and a lunch or two out...)

I suppose it might be a thing which is easier to work out once we have final numbers etc... But maybe some people would want to cook a dinner in small teams, for example? Can't leave it all up to @JJBerk this time around.

I'm a pizza fanatic for one, and would relatively happily make a few batches of dough and spend an evening making slugs and providing sauce + cheese (pepperoni, whatever).

If nothing else it might give people a sort of soft plan on what they can be involved in/get some numbers on etc... I for one don't really eat very much meat and the gf eats none, so we can pick up our own food the night that Mike is in charge.

My Norton 750 Commando rebuild is going on 8 years now... Still collecting parts.

I feel ya.

Silicon intake pipes are nice. Good for vacuum system stuff as well, if they are well built/reinforced. But also typically softer than rubber and easier to kink.

Not great for fuel at all, and cheaper ones can sometimes ‘bleed through’ some chemicals and end up being nasty and tacky on the outside. Worth buying quality if making the switch. 
 

I have a Perrin inlet tube for the same reasons you listed. + the post MAF tube. Couple of vacuum lines replaced with high quality silicon, but the rest ai just got new rubber hoses. The OE lasted 20 years, so that ain’t a bad track record.

It’s a cheap way to provide venting for the crank case.

It’s done instead of fixing the PCV system which directs oil vapours into the intake to be burned instead of venting them to atmosphere.

Sometimes needed for race cars, just crappy and polluting for a daily.

An air oil separator is a better solution if you really can’t/don’t want to use the stock system.

EDIT: Catch can is also appropriate as part of the 'normal' PCV system to collect moisture and oil vapours. Less costly than and AOS, but needs to be emptied from time to time or it'll overflow or just puke all the collected garbage into the intake. Most cars need neither, just a good functioning PCV system. But for me, the added expense of the AOS vs. catch can was worth it to make it an 'install and forget' type thing.

20 minutes ago, m sprank said:

but might not need as much as last year???

Heresy.

We are there longer, therefore we need more.

2 hours ago, boxkita said:

more BEER is like more cowbell, never enough!

Boxkita said it best.

17 minutes ago, Bobsyouruncl said:

Where do you live? I'm coming over!

You find yourself in Ontario and in need, mi casa su casa.

48 minutes ago, boxkita said:

Is it too early to start with the beer list ? 

It is never too early to start with the beer list. 17 pages of discussing trivialites and we finally get to the good stuff. 

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08HKHJ6NY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used these. Cheap, easy and they showed I was getting hydrocarbons in the cooland. Take the engine apart, and sure enough my head gasket was *just* starting to go.

PS -  TO OP: Double posting/threading here is frowned upon. You already have a bunch of people trying to help you in your other thread. 

Everyone is happy to help, but try to keep things organized.

So.... just since were not really THAT far away from this being a real thing, and I have some scheduling stuff that needs attending, I'll just throw out that I think I will arrive Thursday, and depart after driving the Glen Monday mid-day.

So far, I know Tyrone is interested in staying to do the Glen, anyone else?? I know it's speed limited, so he can't use that big turbo to kick my ass all around the track, and just maybe my fast spooling VF40 will work in my favour. But there has to be someone else to rep wagons on the track!? Maybe a turbo Ascent? Hey? Anyone willing to have their BRZ embarrased by some 20 year old fast rust? Anyone? Do I need to change plans in a hurry and get JMP to build me a Custom VF52 BEFORE the ECM?

Hopeing to get in lots of fireside chat as well as some group rides while I'm there with you all. Anyone else think they have semi-known dates by this point?

It’s the sensors that are going timo cause problems. MY05 doesn’t use nearly as much CAN-BUS as other years… It think even ‘06 uses more. Pretty sure the ABS is the reason other year seats don’t swap in easily.

The wiring adaptor job is not super difficult, you just specified ‘plugs in’. To me that means no mods along the way, like plug and play.

I’ve seen plenty of WRX an STi seats in our BP/BL cars, if you’re willing to do a little work. Much better for track/autocross, etc…. Not sure many have seat heaters tho.

05’s are sort of the black sheep of 4th gens, for a couple very small reasons. Externally the same as ‘06s.

Only 05/06 LGT are going to be ‘drop in’.

Anything else will need to defeat the sensors, etc…. Or not have heated seats.

Have you considered having them reupholstered with firmer foam? Or DIY the job?

17 minutes ago, alex0856 said:

I wish. I just have a very cool friend who lets me use his lift. I bring my own tools so packing those up sucks but my motivation to do my own work increases 10 fold when I have a lift to use.

It’s amazing how many friends you did not know you had appear when they find out you have a lift. Hah!

The Legacy sedan is not mine.

Test (if possible) or replace coolant temp sensor?

If ECU is getting bad coolant temp data, all sorts can go wrong.

General check of wiring + grounds (again) isn’t a bad idea. You would not be the first to have a loose connection post engine install/swap etc…

Awesome! Hopefully someone can either rebuild or use the parts to make something else live on.

Yeah man! Genuine Tokyo Roki filter, with the correct bypass pressure, etc…

Best thing for your EJ, especially when you couldn’t get Japan made filters from dealerships here. You can now, but it is hit and miss, so I don’t trust them, and my dealership doesn’t have the ‘large’ filters in any case.

Go to Mazda and get a filter for a 2010 RX-8.

It’s for a rotary, which is pretty cool, if that helps to make you feel better about buying one.