KZJonny

Back to OP:

Some good info here on ‘other’ turbo engine choices.

Even back in 2011, the TT swap wasn’t well liked apparently. At that was when a TD04 wasn’t considered an outdated dinosaur of a turbo.

6 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

ut import want me to get a license just to bring the stuff in...

Ugh….

I’ll try to get you a some numbers today. Will be out in the garage a bunch, so I’ll dig up those parts.

I can try…. They’re super soft, so getting a measurement might not be easy.

They’re also *really* cheap, and boost leaks are a serious problem… really think it’s worth not getting new ones?

Maybe just take measurement of the groove they sit in? That would be effectively the same thing.

Lgt calipers. Whatever brand you like. They’re really quite good, all things considered. Brembos are either for actual (regular) track duty or are just bling on the roads.

I would consider using normal ceramic pads for daily use, then save up for better pads for track/autox days.

Track pads aren’t good on the street and vice versa.

No drilled rotors. Slotted if you must. Good quality blank are all you’ll probably need. Put in fresh ones unless the rust is totally superficial. Like any amount of scoring or a rust ring on the outside is just going to eat your new pads.

Have you taken the brakes apart yet? May be just a stuck slide pin causing the brakes to overheat. You may be finer with just a cleanup and new hardware for a few hours of your time…

Okay, I will bite, but I need to ask the stupid question.

Are those high or low beam?

And can they be used in a normal USDM housing? I will grudgingly admit the OE headlights are only okay.... I really do not want to go to HID's but will consider it as an option.

OR: PM me and let me know about your experience with the full LED conversion. I would much rather go that route, but my limited experience using LED bulbs in the USM housings (Good quality bulbs....) was less then awesome, so I'm at a loss about what the next move should be.

23 hours ago, SubOperator said:

Did not post the photos of JDM front end conversion my boys did on my wagon last summer. Here it is:

 

Yeah dude!
I am much more a fan of pre-facelift look than post, but that looks slick.

Wouldn't turn that down... at all.

Hoping we get to see it in all it'd glory at this year's ECM?

@Enlight is bringing me some JDM bumpers, so maybe you can apply your skills and we can do the swap at the house one afternoon?

https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Fuel-Injector-O-Ring-Fuel-Injector-Seal/49228247/16608KA000.html

Part number 16608KA000

Wherever you prefer to get your parts.

What are the chances you are missing peice #14? Or maybe #10 or 8?

Sometimes things get lost during a rebuild and you forget they were there etc...

If that is the case, I would get new ones anyway. As you've already pointed out, loose injectors is bad mmm-kay? Those rubber bits harden and shrink etc.. and new ones are cheap.

26 minutes ago, Febreze Mee said:

Highlighted times were the best of our four morning runs. I came 6 out of 21.

I will never claim my EJ253 is fast, but since @KZJonny brought it up lol, this was my standing at one of the AutoX events last summer. Not exactly an apples-to-apples comparison. And although the ppl I drive with don't time our uphill/downhill runs in the mountains, I'm still successfully punching above my weight.

OP please yield to everything said in this thread. 90's JDM twin turbos are expensive to keep up with, and high maintenance. Add the headache and expense of swapping, and not a lot of ppl want to invest the effort that you're discussing. 

However, if you pull it off, I'm here to see it!

Torque solves a lot of problems… I would genuinely like to find a NA bugeye wagon and give it the proper suspension/tire/engine once over.

Top speed and hill climbing. The EJ253 isn’t gonna take down a well trimmed GT, but driver skill counts for a lot.

Plus not having to upkeep a garage queen turbo car means you have more money to spend shredding tires and filling the tank. (Which you well know….)

Or you have the tail lights already until someone tells you there is a garnish that matches, and you don’t have it.

Which makes your car look like trash, apparently….. @jaylew?

38 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

They rust

Sigh….

This part is the same between OB and Legacy yeah?

I’m pretty sure I’ve removed one at some point, but might need to again to re-seal my backup lights.

What is the secret sauce for doing this without breaking stuff? Is it glued down somewhere, or sneaky fasteners?

PM sent - maybe OP will get an email flag with that?

Electrical inspection Monday.

I know the work is good, but there could very easily be code stuff I missed or misinterpreted. We will see.

I do know all new circuits here are meant to be Arc Fault Interrupt protected, but it’s awfully hard to run an arc welder on a circuit that is…. So ideally that isn’t a problem.

I guess the lights should have one? Ah well. Cross that bridge when I get to it.

Monroes will be an easy install and definitely better than flogged OE units.

I'd personally go through the trouble of getting the KYBs and finding some springs you like tho, or new OE.

Depends on how much you like the car, and how long you want to keep it, I suppose. If it only sees relatively tame DD duties, Monroe would be fine. I have Rallitek springs +KYB rears on my 05 OBW, and threw Monroe quick struts in the front because I was in a hurry and it's was my daily. In hind sight, I wish I'd taken the time to move the springs over to KYBs or find some better ones. But, I do probably push the old girl harder than most, considering it's a DD.

I can pull one out tonight and have a look to confirm.

But from memory they are M8x1.25 like everything else on the car.

Flange head bolts, as long as you can make fit.
 

I wouldn’t use stainless for this application as much as I love to replace everything with SS. I would stick to high grade 8.8 or 10.9 steel for anything that actually bears suspension stress. Be cheaper a well, tho you may end up hunting around for the M8 fine thread bolts. Not many places carry them in stock. They’re probably like dollars a piece at Subaru as well.

Brake line/abs sensor bolts are M6. Little guys.

It’s been a minute, but the sway bar bracket bolts would have been at least M8. I would say ~20mm or so.

You have the arms yeah? Just measure the depth and thread pitch of the holes. That’ll tell you accurately.

1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

boost would be necessary for a ej to be somewhat “fast”. 

@Febreze Mee....

I'm not so sure about that statement...

But my NA Legacy isn't at all fast.

3 hours ago, ElijahHooper said:

Thanks @KZJonny,

From what I’ve gathered the EJ20x is open deck. Does this mean it couldn’t handle boost well? I mean the whole point of this project is to make more power. I don’t need anything crazy but boost would be necessary for a ej to be somewhat “fast”. 

Ej20X, EJ255, EJ257, all open deck blocks, or semi-open depending on how you call it. All come with factory turbos. Many make 350awhp when done up right....

That is plenty of power.

iwire will have great advice for sure.

I was mainly suggesting that there lots of known and documented ways of swapping to common engines that will make enough power for you. Anything twin turbo and JDM is going to be very expensive + a very small community of people who have done it, and are able to help. Not many of them here (if any). Probably 90+% of this forum is either EJ255/7 or some single turbo variant of that with a built block or a Type RA short block, which is the same thing.

Modern turbo technology means that twins aren't really a thing for small displacement engines like a 2.0/2.5L any longer.

LOTS of info out there on the argument, and tons here about the mainly USDM platform stuff. People here are happy to help, but I don't think many are going to have much to say about the twin turbo Legacy/Liberties.

I lived in New Zealand for a few years, and drove a TT Liberty that a friend owned. It was quick, but my EJ255 was faster when it was stock. Just sayin, more turbos isn't always better.

Haven’t got too many answers for you mate, but good luck on the swap!

Before you buy yourself a pile of headache, you may want to look into the reason why so many people that HAD the twin turbo EJ20s swapped them over to a single turbo. Lots of information out there on the topic.

An EJ20X is going to be a fraction of the cost/headache to make work, and is a known value these days.

Enjoy whichever option you choose!

5 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

I'm sure that was a typo.. 

Good progress! 

Typo, yes. But true on both counts. My GF confirms this, no bias there at all.

NB: This is coming from someone who just picked up a soda blaster, so I can spend hours trying to make the aluminium of my engine block and heads look a little nicer. Totally useless by any meaningful standard, and expensive to boot.

BUT, I will enjoy the results and I'm doing it no matter what anyone tells me, so I totally get it.

18 minutes ago, Deltaking said:

Got to love that legend Datsun.

My idea is this:

The current hole for air to come into the intake system on stock is a small rectangular shape. (I agree that stock intake is good that's why I don't want to go aftermarket).

The snorkel (Call it what you may) which goes into the air filter box is limiting the air flow into the air system (Basing this on the fact that it narrows out before it expands and exits the air filter and gets compressed again into the narrow pipe with the MAF.

I want the snorkel to fill the box exactly as it does just the entire volume of the box to allow more air in at a time before it is compressed into the narrow pipe with the MAF. (So I want a clean flow with into the airbox then the compression can occur after the air filter - If I am making any sense here)  

Theoretically if I get the snorkel to fit the same with the box exposed the air temps should remain the same or theoretically reduce due to excess external air coming into the insolated box. (Now that I'm thinking about it I can actually just design the one half of the box with a fixed Snorkel on it to do exactly what I want which would still make the air filter removal exactly the same as if it were stock... hmmm will need to ponder on which is more practical...)

 

 

I think I see what you are gunning for here.

All I am suggesting is that until you are at ~350whp or thereabouts, like 18g/380XT/ JMP Custom 16G territory, the air intake system is not a bottleneck yet. So, if this is planning for the future, then you're on the right track for sure.

All learning and experimenting is good, and maybe you'll hit on something that is an improvment, and we all benefit. But thus far, dyno results have shown that the stock system is just fine up to the above numbers, at which point, you probably do need a short ram/CAI etc.... with a bigger diameter pipe + tune to adjust MAF scaling. My point was more that the time spent vs. reward ratio is unlikely to be high. You clearly look like you're good at this, so perhaps it's a thing you really enjoy doing, in which case that ratio probably changes a lot.

I dislike doing work for little to no result, personally, which is why mentioned other people who have done similar and dynoed the results. On my mildly modified (Custom VF40 + engine back exhaust system) car, the COBB intake (even with the COBB tune) was hurting idle and low partial throttle operation. Going back to total stock + high quality off the shelf air filter solved the problem entirely for me.

Bottom side cleaned up, sealed and torqued. Just waiting overnight for the oil pan rtv to cure before I flip it and let the little bit of remaining oil come into contact with it.

Overkill I know, but whatever. It does say to give the stuff 24 hours before putting into use.

Tonight or tomorrow I’ll start in on more. Trim the oil pan tab, install manifolds, etc.

the heat sheilding I had on order should arrive before the weekend, so I can install all of that before dropping it back in the bay….

1 hour ago, RumblyXT said:

Oh hey.. I almost forgot! Did you remove all the banjo bolt filter mesh? I think there's 4 in total in the whole engine. Now's the time to do it before you have the rest of the components and Cam Gears on.

The one behind the Left head under the Turbo, another one on top, the oil pipe by the front of the RH, one in front of the Left Intake Cam and the last one I think it's on top of the Left head in the other end of the other oil pipe.

Also, will you be doing the 4th Cylinder cooling mod? Might as well too. I have a brand new JDM fitting from eBay is you need it. It connects on the back of the Left Head.

Yessir. One of the first things I did when I bought the car years ago.... Well, except for the one behind the LHS intake cam wheel. That one I meant to do for a long time, but only did a year or two ago when I finally committed to spending a day with my dremel and grinding down a wrench to get in there and remove the banjo. Thankfully that filter was perfectly clean. I removed it anyway. None left in the car.

+ GADT 4th cylinder cooling mod installed the summer before last when I upgraded my turbo to the Custom VF40. I didn't have the Grimmspeed Intercooler yet ($$$), and figured that little thing would probably be squeezing air pretty hard and generating more heat. So, new rad + hoses + the mod just to try and help out. The new TMIC is probably overkill for my driving, but it is a step up from OE, and nobody complains that their IATs are too low. I also deleted the throttle body warming circuit, since this is a 3 seaon car only. (And also cleaned the TB last night and reinstalled w/new 0-ring... tho it hardly needed to be cleaned, really. IT looked great on the backside too.)