KZJonny

David appeared to be one fit bastard to me when we met last year.... https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Finger+Lakes,+NY,+USA/Baltimore,+Maryland,+USA/@41.0038455,-78.2751672,8z/data=!3m1!4b1!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x89d0e97f090ae217:0x20a5ccd2e680bc3b!2m2!1d-76.9297247!2d42.7238165!1m5!1m1!1s0x89c803aed6f483b7:0x44896a84223e758!2m2!1d-76.6121893!2d39.2903848!3e1?entry=ttu

I think even dropping the trans a couple of inches withoug first detaching the shift linkage could very easily have jacked something up. Thinking of mine, there really isn't all that much play in it at all... Like I wanted to replace a leaking seal by doing the same thing (dropping the trans just a little) and decided against it because it was too much work to remove everything just for a thing that loses a few mL's of fluid annually.

IF you get this deep into the part out, and ONLY IF, coz I suspect it would be annoying. I am currently still diagnosing why I have a wheel speed sensor fault at my passenger rear wheel. 2 different sensors have not solved the problem, and following the diagnostic tree for the ABS module shows it to be good. It would be awesome to have a full run of known-good wires from whatever connection backwards is convenient to replace mine with. I am pretty sure they connect up to B98? Or something like this in the passenger footwell. If this is beyone the scope of your planned dissassembly, then no worry. I am sure I can find a donor somewhere. Pretty sure the wiring will be the same in a NA car as ours, and there are lots of those out there. (May also be some other things I aught to throw some money at you for, but I'm still trying to get my engine done and back in the car, which is unsurprisingly more $$$ than I expected.)

This is kind of doubling down on the "20 year old Legacy + ECM" post, but what the hell. Removed heads and cleaned everything up. They look okay but the tiny spot where the combustion gas was getting past the fire ring on the head gasket had just a little more damage than I felt comfortable remedying with a light sanding, etc... So heads are at the shop as of this morning for a minimal skim + the flywheel is being resurfaced. While I had the heads apart and being manuall cleaned up as much as I could, I figured I would do a basic test to see how the valve sealing surfaces were doing. It's been years since I did a compression test, which was fine at the time, but having the heads right in front of me made me curious. The single valve out of all 16 that was out of spec when I meaured, did indeed let some liquid pass when I filled the head with combustion chamber cleaner to soften up the little bit of build up carbon. So, I pulled it, gave it a quick cleaning and also hit the valve seal with some cleaner and a rag. Seems to be much better now, and doesn't drip liquid. Maybe if i am lucky, it will be in spec on reassembly and I don't need to do any swapping of valve buckets, we will see. I am pretty sure the results of the 'test' are good, but once the heads were clean, I filled all 4 combustion chambers with ATF and stuffed paper towels in the ports. Two of eight had a very small amount of ATF leak by over and entire evening... like 5-6 hours. I am of a mind that this is fine, since the head is cold and not assembled to the block, and ATF is pretty good at penetrating things, and is also has a lot of detergent action (which is why I used it for this "test"). I figure that less than a few drops of fluid making it past that valves over the course of hours is fine. BUT if that is NOT okay, then I wanted to ask here. I'm not a machinist or an engine builder, but I've done this kind of thing a few times. It never occured to me to check like this before, so it's my first time interpreting the results. There isno indication of that valves every having made contact with pistons or anything at all like that, or I expect they wouldn't sit properly in their seats and hold a fluid so well. OR, I am over thinking this, and I just need to get back to work cleaning the block side and prepping it for reassembly. LOL!

Good plan. I would think anything that is a good detergent/oil and grease buster will help to break up and lift any oily residue that could theoretically still be holding bits of metal. That, followed by lots of rinsing, thorough drying then blasting with compressed air should do the job. Running some fresh white painters rags through when you're done to look for any evidence of remaining metal contamination would be the last step.

That's a great resource dude, thanks. There is a guy/company in the GTA that does this as well, and that's a 1.5 hour drive for me instead of 3 days. On the other hand, if you google parts for JECS injectors, you get lots of results for 0-ring + filter basket kits. SO, that's an option as well, instead of looking up 'subaru side feed injectors' etc... My local subaru speed parts place sells the o-ring kit with lubricant from Deutschwerks for like $25CAD, which seemed reasonable. In hindsight, an ebay kit would probably also be just fine, and you get new filter baskets, etc... If I see anything that suggests the injectors need cleaning, I'll send a spare set out and get them totally rebuilt, then swap them in.

Yes. That is the one. I chatted with the fellow at Spec on the phone, and given my use & mods, he suggested that either the Stage 1 or Stage 2+ would be appropriate. Something about the Stage 2 materials not being as friendly with a street driven car. Meant for higher heat/hard use or they do strange things... I don't expect that a JMP VF40/52 is exceeding 300 wtq, but I suppose that depends on the tune. The Excedy OE clutch +lightweight flywheel that came the car were not slipping under hard use with my current setup, but it was certainly wearing out faster than it ought to have been.

Okay..... So heads can go out tomorrow for a skim. Only the one pictured above really needs it, but I figure I'd rather have them prepped for the best possible seal, and also that while the difference between the two would end up being *tiny*, I'd rather not have one side of the engine with a slightly difference compression ratio than the other. If this was an NA engine I would have just the one machined and send it.... However, it is not, and we all know how touchy these things are about tuning and details, so away they go. NOW. I am debating over weather or not to do valve seals while I've got the heads off... Who would/would not? They are cheap enough, and it's not a terrible job, but my feeling is also that they're not really known to fail much in these engines... Kind of the same as the rear main. It's a thing you can do, but also not really regarded as a weak point in these engines. I'm leaning towards just tidying up the head mating surfaces, ensuring all is super-duper clean and throwing it all back together ASAP. But if this would be a critical misstep, then I'm willing to listen to others. Valve seals can be done in the engine bay in future at worst case.

Stock windage tray is almost certainly going to be fine for 'occassional spirited use'. They had a combination offer when I bought mine, so I just figured why not? If I was going to go to the trouble of taking off the oil pan and all the headache that goes along with it, might just as well be done with it all at once. I do think the IAG windage tray is a nice design and will work better than stock to keep oil from splashing up into the moving internal but whether or not that matters for someones individual use case.....?

No problem at all. Just have it resurfaced at a machine shop so it will mate with the new clutch properly.

To be clear, it’s part number: 11109AA151 It’s the standard pan for 06+ LGT as well. They just also use them on STIs… The drain is different/better than the ‘05 design and they are a little different internally. I have a Spectra pan on right now that is an aftermarket pattern replica of this. My old one was rusting out. It is honestly just fine. I’m only debating replacing it because I have the engine out and in pieces. 05s are apparently not prone to pick up failure as much as 06+ models, but still… ‘while I was in there….’ I might as well be broke for a while longer.

Currently just a stock replacement. I’m debating going to the improved 06+/sti design instead of cleaning all the rtv off the current pan, but on the fence. Mine sees a little more ‘spirited use’ than a daily/kid hauler, but the aftermarket pans are track duty stuff in my mind. Too expensive for me.

It gets better. So at least after doing all this work, I was right, and there was a little combustion leak/head gasket failure. Glad I decided to try and get this all done before the driving season, and the ECM in particular. No significant damage, but this head (both I guess) will now have to get pulled down and dropped off for a skim at the machine shop, which is okay. I was hoping to get away with just refinishing by hand and new gaskets, but at this point, I’m too far in to do anything in part measures.

Installed an IAG windage tray + pickup I grabbed on black Friday. Fits up nice. No sign of cracking on the original, but I’ll at least not worry about it any more… The tig work on this one is lovely.

Spec B stuff is only maybe another 1/2” lower than stock Legacy. The Bilsteins are a much better ride than stock KYBs tho. You do, however need top hats to go with the front struts. Stock hats do not work. If it is a family hauling daily, it may not be worth the extra effort and cost. KYB GR-2s are much cheaper and designed to make up for old/tired springs.

Spec Stage 1 was ~$600 for the clutch + bearings. Standard kit. Theoretically rated to hold your torque at least. I’m also still on a JMP Custom VF40, so kind of a mini vf52… But then I have @RumblyXT’s old VF52 that might get the JMP treatment… so will it hold that?!

Hm. I found some at a local speed shop, for a reasonable price, but I’ll get some of those from MMC next time I place an order. Thanks very much. This might be worth posting up in the ‘parts numbers, etc….’ Thread. I couldn’t fins the data anywhere. Presumably, there used to be a part number, but I could not find it.

They want $15 USD for shipping INSIDE the states. This is ri-goddamn-diculous.

That's what I came up with as well upon searching more. Bummer I'll have to get them shipped in from the US. Seems a little unlikely that as small as Canadia is, that there wouldn't be some way to replaced 'frikkin injector o-rings, which are 'single use...' Everything has to be the hard way huh? EDIT: $35 USD for International shipping. I think I am going to have to find some other way.

I tore most of my engine apart. Therefore; asking the question here: Anybody have part number(s) for OE side feed injector o-rings? Not the seals between the rail and TGVs, but the actual top and bottom o-rings that go on the injectors themselves. I looked through the vacation pix, and didn't see anything. Parts guy at my local Subaru dealership also came up with a goose egg. Failing OE parts, then a trusted supplier, or maybe measurements of the original o-rings before they spent 20 years compressed into a snug fitting holder?

I did the same for the OBW. Didn’t bother to follow the ‘over the tank’ route. Just used CuPro lines (Nicop? Whatever brand…) and followed the rear subframe across the car. Couple zip ties and p-clamps make sure nothing can move anywhere. Only took a couple hours…. I made sure to keep them off the ‘bottom’ of anything, so going over a curb or in a field they shouldn’t be able to get hit. Or, at least if they did, I went over something so gnarly that I’d probably have bigger problems by that point.

This keeps on exploding into more work. Lol! Pulled the engine just to do the head studs, for boosty purposes. Now have a whole new/used OE fuel rail coming from Ebay, All sorts of gaskets, oil pressure gauge and sender (non-mechanical this time), new tools to suit. ONE out of 16 valves is out of spec. FML. So : new feeler gauges to get more accurate reading across all valve lash to be sure, valve removal tool in case I need to clean that valve up. (It's out of spec on the high side, so I wonder if there is some carbon/bit of dirt keeping it open atm.... no meaningful amount of misfire recorded, so I don't think that will be the problem...) New nuts and bolts to replace rusty old ones.... *sigh* There are days I wish I was more of a 'do the job and slap it back together' person, but I just can't bring myself to do it....

Final thought. You can also mount the sending unit remotely, on the firewall or whatever, and connect it to the oil galley with copper/stainless tube. Mine was also surprisingly large, but I also decided to mount it at the rear oil galley to account for that.

Teflon tape should be fine…. No harm in threebond tho? EDIT: Checked the install manual for my oil gauge, and they recommend using silicon thread paste for NPT threads. So.. pipe dope is what they recommend, essentially... If you did go that route, I would think that you'd want to use the bare minimum. Realistically, low strength thread locker would also seal things up a little. I used gas pipe teflon tape, and was careful not to use heaps, leaving bits that can shear off and go travelling through the oiling system.

Actually... looking closer at the Company 23 website they say they "work with Aisin" to have their water pumps made... so I think you know where that extra money is going, and it is not into the pump itself. Don't get me wrong, I have a bunch of their stuff, but there is a limit on how much more I will spend on what appears to be the same stuff from different vendors, and that exceeds it.