KZJonny

I will try that. Yeah. I logged out and back in. I think the second thing is more noteworthy... that I used to have the "I Donated" user status in blue, below my name. Now I am just a member, hah! I don't know if non-donating members always have ads or something like that? I do not have any on my computer useing Chrome tho, so I'll keep messing around with things and see what happens. EDIT: Tried on Chrome as well. No dice. Ads there too. Closed all windows in both browsers and turned the phone off then back on again. Strange. The ads make browsing on my phone nearly impossible, they're in the way of critical functions, and trying to close them inevitably opens them instead. (This is why I pay for subscriptions to most anything I use regularly...) Thanks all.

Following this: Just noticed my "I Donated" status is gone, but it is not for some others. Did we have some kind of reset of profile values? Or is this perhaps a glitch? Again, happy to do something to restore the functionality of my mobile use, etc...

I'll remember some of that for next time the engine comes out. Or if a new SB ever goes in, I think it will get a coat of clear POR 15 before install. Much easier to wash a sealed surface than raw aluminium as you note. I was on too much of a time crunch to send anything out for blasting. I even bought a soda blaster and used it for some of the parts, but not everything I had planned on doing got done. OTOH the engine should go back in this weekend, so that is a plus.

Circling back aroung to this, I realized that if the TGV plates are not in the same orientation at 'rest' something is very wrong. There is spring tension on the bar/plates that is acted against by the motor to close them..... Double check the install and calibration instructions to make sure the spring tension and plate alignment is good when installing.

I've been using LGT.com on my iphone (Safari) for a few years now, and just started getting ads all over the place yesterday. Makes navigating the site pretty hard and very annoying. Is this a browser thing on my device, or am I just due in for another donation to keep things ad-free. Happy to throw a little more money at this place, since it is still a crazy font of knowledge and regularly saves my bacon. But strange to me that one day I just got clobbered with ads.

Link to the thread? And my jealousy is painful. I just did a relatively in depth engine refresh and just not being able to get the aluminium clean like a new block in photos like that is killing me a little. (not enough to buy a short block tho.... lol!) Looks awesome dude. Enjoy every new nut and bolt that goes into that super clean looking bay.

Anybody here had/have a NA GD Impreza? I know there are some WRXs going round which are also similar enough for the comparison. I'm asking more on handling/suspension end of thigns than power and brakes. I'm going to take a look at cleanish Hawkeye Impreza that is real cheap because it needs struts and the owner is complete non-mechanic and doesn't want to spend the money on an old car. Very fair. So... if isn't a rust bucket I can maybe grab it for like $1200 CAD. Which around here qualifies as screaming deal even for a used car. I really do like the Yaris I bought in Autumn to get me through the winter, but it is just a touch too small, and if I keep it longer I am going to engine swap it and put better suspension in it..... all of which is a waste of my time and money probably. Best thing to do is get rid of it. It's also probably worth $4K or so, which means I can probably get the Impreza, do all repairs and registration and come our ahead. (I could also sell my Outback... it is getting long in the tooth, and I do not need 3 x Subaru wagons. + It is auto, which I have always hated, and the Impreza is a 5MT....) Anyway, curious mainly about thoughts on handling if it is well set up and has all new bushes installed, etc.... I would probably do whatever the equivalent of our Spec B Bilstien upgrade is for the GD chassis. Or if there are upgrade KYBs available and some better springs, go that way. The GD certainly has a reputation for being a fun car to toss around, and that is mainly what I want to know more about. I won't get a chance to find out on a test drive, I'm sure, since if one shock is bad, I bet the rest are also clapped out. I just want a winter beater than I can have a little fun with, and since I am already pretty fluent in Subaru and EJ, I might as well stick with it. I really wanted a bugeye, but everything around here is either a rust bucket by that age, or has been riced up pretty bad, or is auto. Also this hawkeye is both cheap and pretty clean..... It is also probably a better platform for winter highway driving that the Yaris. Even with a Whiteline RSB and new shocks all around, it gets bullied around the road pretty bad in high winds. I think I will appreciate having AWD and cruise in a dedicated winter car.

Also, I just noticed the Subaru socks.... You sir, are hardcore.

I know it is a maybe, but if you are coming to the ECM, I would pick up the JDM PS cover. Boozy beat me to to the battery cover, haha! Hoping you can make the long drive just to see you again this year, but 100% understand that life gets busy and relaxing by a lake (while tempting) can be hard to prioritize. Also hope that you feel much better re: long covid by now than you did last Spring.

You're good dude. The advise to not go 'full send' all the time MAY not be bad, but the difference between an ELH and OE is mainly a little bit of turbo spool (faster) without everything else in place to make the most of it. Keep an eye on boost and AFR, to make sure nothing is out of spec and get those parts swapped. I also don't really think a good e-tune is particularly a risk. (Cryotune or Tuning Alliance) It just puts more responsibility on you, as the driver/owner to make sure everything is in good shape before doing a few WOT pulls. (Not on public roads, of course....) You don't have a babysitter looking at logs the whole time. But, you get what you pay for....

Studs + bolts are cheap, even at Subaru. Easy fix. Good chance the bolt is rust welded to the stud, so get both. I’ve never heard the technical term ‘gurgles’…. Video may help? I tend to agree with @rhino6303. More data is better. Compression test will be valuable information. Fix known problems before chasing down issues, so do the manifold first. Maybe smoke/pressure test the intake system to look for leaks there as well? Ruling out the easy stuff goes a long way.

Yeah. I think it works well. @jaylew did that not long ago, and I think he did a bit of a DIY setup to make the acetone vapour... He might be a good guy to reach out to about it. My feeling is that you get a great surface, but that the UV inhibitors in the plastic are still used up, and the lens needs protection again after the refresh, but maybe I'm wrong on that, and re-melting the surface to a uniform layer is enough to get back to a 'close to OE' finish. I have a set of lenses that I've cleaned and sanded down to good plastic, and I am just going to hit them with some 2K clearcoat. It's not perfect, but for a 3 season car that I put away in the garage for the winter, that should be good for 5+ years, and already have all the eqiupment to do it. Tho, seeing neat new tools always makes me want to try them out. (Like this acetone vapour kettle) I would however, suggest if you try this you use an activated charcoal respirator, not just a surgical mask. Acetone isn't the *worst* thing out there, but I try not to breath too much solvent fumes no matter what I'm doing!

Installing a GS 3 port EBCS the other day, I ran in to a problem I think is pretty solveable, but I wanted to know if anyone else has had the same issue. (For the record, I am installing the EBCS in 2-port/bleed mode for the time being, I just figured it's easier to have it installed +install the line to switch to 3 port mode sitting there and waiting to go while the engine is out that to fight with it later.) Annoying problem is that the barbs on the EBCS are tiny, like 1/8" or 3-4mm, whichever you prefer. One of the ports tho is supposed to go to the intake manifold. No big deal, except those barbs are like 3/8" or 1/2" roughly... I MAY have found a nice SS barb adaptor to go from the tiny hose up to the IM barb, but they're not small, and real estate under the IM is pretty tight. I would have to make it a much longer loop than stock to get the barb adaptor to fit in there somewhere. I don't see that as being a big problem, and I hardly think it will slow down response time much, but shorter hoses are probably also the best option. I was also thinking that maybe glueing the small hose inside the larger OE hose that comes off the stock EBCS might be fine? I have lots of high quality RTV lying around after the refresh and figure if it can seal up the cranks cases/valve covers etc... from leaking fluids, it should be able to hold up to a few psi of boost or vacuum while holding a couple of little hoses together? Anyone else come across this same problem? Other options I suppose might be to replace the barb on the EBCS with a larger fitting, or try and find barbed elbow fitting that suits the IM (Perrin) that has a 3/16" or 1/8" barb on it... Any suggestions are welcome. Cheers!

Or the trans. Depends on which is easier for you to do. Job to do the separator/piston pic cover would be slightly easier with the engine out, but not by a mile, since an engine stand will have the arms kind of in the way..... If you happen to have a plastic separator cover plate (unlikely) there are metal replacements that are less likely to leak. I'm not super familiar with the late 90's Legacies, but I think they're in the same boat... that some had plastic covers.

I would always start with looking at the main grounds, or wherever the clock display, etc... ground out to. (Never hurts to look at the main battery/engine grounds either, many electrical gremlins trace back to that.) More specifically, there are some threads that talk about poor solder joints in the trip computer that benefit from being re-flowed, and which cause some problems like these. I don't have a reference for that off the top of my head, but a search might bring some of it up.

If you're getting a CEL for that, it's either the motor or the sensor beginning to fail. I have the same problem, but it is erratic and tends to go away if I turn the car off and start it again. In my case, I pulled the TGV butterfly plates, so that if something ever does fail, the car will still run normally, not have 2 cylinders blocked off from getting air. (TGV deletes not being an option for people like me on COBB tunes....) There is also a procedure for installing and calibrating the TGV sensors and motors.... You need to move the blades/butterflies to the correct position before installing the rest, etc.... it's somewhere in the FSM. I'm sure you'll come across it.

Old fluid. Air in lines, ultra worn out pads… All adds up too.

Don’t forget the Yari. I mean… kind of seriously. I got mine for a couple grand and slapped a whiteline rsb and some Michelin winters on it, and spent the winter here passing Volvos and Mercedes SUVs. They don’t seem to like getting passed by econoboxes, but on all seasons…. they also can’t follow me through corners….. lol! Want more power? Throw a Corolla 1.8L in it. That is a lot of jam for a 2200lb car. Hah! Soooo… how bout that camping trip?

Oh man. That’s bad. Ebay fakes have gotten pretty good or bad, depending on which side of it you’re on. Rockauto has Timkens and SKF sometimes too. I’ve got mine from them, and have a few years on all of them. No trouble yet.

Fair. A4 Allroad = 2.0L turbo. But serious, you've already got enough drama in your life without another high strung small displacement car. OBW would be as capable, if slower and far easier on maintenance, etc... I drove my neighbours Sienna after doing a brake job for him, and while I would never own a minivan, for all sorts of reasons, I have to confess that the Toyota 3.5L V6 has some jam, even on a family vehicle tune. Of course, you then get the worst of all worlds, V6 smashed into a van engine bay..... BRZ sounds like a highly practical skiing day car. That said, I drove a '91 Tercel in the Rockies (Sunshine/Lake Loise) to a couple hundred ski days.... Just threw on some good winters and drove past the Jeeps that got stuck on the roads up the mountians. becaue all seasons, and tourists are idiots.

All cool options. Since you just smashed a VAG car, does an A4 Allroad wagon not make the list? I've heard that once your used to the VAG, there is no going back.

https://www.autotempest.com/results?make=subaru&model=outback&zip=01606&radius=300&maxyear=2009&transmission=man I picked a random ZIP code in the middle Mass. I don't know where you are, but it's not THAT big of a state. I like the green one with only 90K on it. My favourite colour for 3rd gen outbacks.

Awesome! I lived in BC for a while and those roads are for real. Also worked in Northern Alberta for quite a while, but generally took roads like that in my Ford F350.... Wonder if that is an H6? I couldn't see from the video... Either way. I wouldn't try in my stock height LGT, haha! But the OBW? I would 100% take mine down that kind of road.

First UOA from Oil Analizers. They do shipping within Canada and are associated with Amsoil, so easy to get your hands on and saves us Canucks from having to either ship cross-border or run over and send things in person. Easier and faster. The only REAL thing is the water level, and since there are no accompanying elevated levels of Sodium and Potassium which would be expected with coolant getting into the oil (Head gaskets were starting to fail, but only between the combustion chamber and the coolant jacket, not into the oil galleys....) I am going to attribute the water to a couple of cold weather starts while the car sat in the garage + condensation in the sump. This was the oil from last driving season, left in the car over winter, more so whatever oil I add in the Spring is super fresh and hasn't been kickin around for months. Turns out this was a good strategy, since the oil that was in it go dumped and thrown out.... Better that it was old and not new and fresh. So, I'm going to run a batch of conventional 5w30 through the engine for first start up, and long enough to get the cooland burped and confirm oil pressure, etc... All the usual stuff. This will go through the 5000km old Tokyo Roki filter from last year, which should have lots of filtration capacity left in it. As soon as initial start up and warm up is done, I figure I'll collect that oil in a clean container and put it in the Yaris. Hahah! I really doubt that thing will care, and after a few minutes of running in the EJ, it should be well and truly filtered and still very fresh and good to go. If I am wrong, then I carry on with my plans to swap a Corlla 1.8L into the Yaris and *really* get that nugget rocketing down the road. Ha! I'm going to carry on using the currnet oil cooler and see what the results are at my next UOA. If there is no noticeably amount of water, and the copper levels are normal, I will chalk it up to the oil sitting too long and condensation from a couple of cold starts withough sufficient time to boil water out of the oil. If they return, then I'll throw in a new oil cooler and try again!

The forum does not like the iphone "live" photo/videos. Just learned this. Try taking a still and uploading a .jpg file instead.