KZJonny

Hard to tell exactly, but I think that is the purge control solenoid (black wire connector) and your boost control solenoid (blue connector).

Purge solenoid shoudl have 2 posts on it. On from the fuel vent line, and the other to the IM. Yours looks like one is broken off.

Oh Geez.

That is the vacuum/boost sensor. You sir, have been driving largely without boost control, and also with lines from the turbo severed? Not good dude, hopefuly no damage done.

That should connect to a port on the front of the IM, kind of behind the alternator, and above (below?) where the purge solenoid connects to the IM as well.

Looks like you've got quite a lot of plumbing to fix. There is a diagram of the vacuum system in colour on this site. Google that. Should help you make sure you've got all the required hoses and that they are going where they need. Ziptie that shit when you put it back on as well. You don't want the hoses blowing off the BCS under boost, etc...

14 minutes ago, Flxr_88 said:

I found a vacuum line coming from the turbo going to the cluster of sensors to be severed

Yeah, that'll do it. That 'cluster of sensors' up at the front it your vacuum gauge + boost control solenoid. Pretty important stuff, hopefully no damage done if you had no boost control for a while.

The end of the TGV connector can be depinned and replaced. All the harness fitting should be available on the interweb, or at iwire if you want the highest quality. Shouldn't be any need to replace the harness. Alternately, you could cut one off a parts car and splice it on. Good chance that one is part of the problem with your TGVs. I broke my coolant temp sending unit connector putting the engine back together.... old brittle plastic that has seen a million heat cycles. Just gonna happen. In my case I just left it as is, becuase if it falls off, I should just see the needle drop. No big deal, I'll get a new connector when/if that happens.

Interesting. I wonder why as well.

I used to see 16.5psi before the rebuild and nothing meaningful has changed since then. So, I suppose I’ll keep trying and see if anything sticks.

I could see there being a problem at the wastegate not opening all the way VF40 + divorced DP), but not closing? Doesn’t make sense, the WG is fully closed when you install the turbo, so I don’t see how it would be partially open.

All evidence points to some kind of boost control problem. Tho at least thankfully not a large one.

On 5/17/2024 at 10:37 AM, KZJonny said:

The only other thing that comes to mind is the GS 3 port BCS causing this problem, but I don't see how. It is set up in 2-port configuration and the thirs port is firmly capped. Still, if nothing else pans out then maybe throwing the factory BCS back in could be worth a try?

Nothing else is suggesting that I have a boost leak, although I certainly go rich under boost, that is probably more of a tune thing, and I suspect I will get much better mileage when I have that sorted out....

BUT, since I don't see/hear/taste any other notable problems with the car, I am going to try the OE BCS again and see what happens. Since I have the Grimmspeed one set to "bleed mode" I don't know why it isn't functioning just as the OE one should do. EXCEPT, I retained the vacuum line with a pill in it. Does anyone suppose that the OE BCS is calibrated work with the pill, while the GS unit is not, and expects a direct line to the turbo housing, no restrictions?

It's all a bit academic since if going back to the OE BCS solved the problem for now, I will leave it that way until I get a base map from Cryo to accomodate the GS unit. I suppose I'm spending more money now. Hah!

I'd do a leak/vacuumm test before pulling the IM again. Also, see if the sticking TGV problem is all the time, or the wiring might not be quite right.

If it is a permanent problem, and the wiring is confirmed to be good, then pulling the blades is only a patch, you'd need to know if it is the motors or the sensors that aren't working. There is also a process to calibrate the TGVs when installed, I don't know it off the top of my head, but maybe that is all that is needed? Google that up.

Removing the blades is just a thing you can do to sort of future proof the TGVs, but if they are already installed, then I wouldn't bother atm. You need to grind off the back of the screws that hold them in, which you can't do with them sitting on the engine. Any little bit of metal in the intake could be a disaster.

Start by eliminating the easy stuff, then work through to removing the intake again, etc...

7 minutes ago, Flxr_88 said:

I drove the car down the road, saw the cruise light flash and brought it home. Less than 2 mins.

Dunno man. Usually the TGV stick on startup. But I am not debating that they did something odd as your were driving down the road. Usually not a bad idea to let the car warm up a minute after a big job like IM replacement, etc... the TGVs should open when you get to warm idle.

I would start by looking at the turbo for shaft play. Jet engine sounds are usually linked to things like turbines, and the closest thing under your hood to a turbine is the compressor in the turbo. Nothing else in there should be making screaming jet noises. Actually, the turbo should not be making screaming jet noises!

If that checks out with no play in the turbo, I would move to a vacuum leak check. Smoke test if you can first to catch anything obvious, then move on to checking all vacuum hoses are snug and in the right places. (+wiring, especially to the TGV motor/sensor and ground connections in the bay. If any of those are off even a little, it could be causing your problems.)

Very suspect that this started when you installed a new, non broken IM and TGVs that were known to be good.

11 hours ago, Flxr_88 said:

P2006 Right side tgv stuck closed and no boost

You didn't actually drive the car with this did you?

11 hours ago, Flxr_88 said:

When I release off the accelerator you hear a high pitched pressure release

Depending on how it sounds, this is normal, should be the BPV venting back into the intake manifold.

11 hours ago, Flxr_88 said:

Where it’s really loud, and you can hear it equalizing after shutoff

Video of this is going to help. Not that I suggest running the car much until you solve the TGV problem. Did you end up getting the TGVs from Infosecdad? It's not a terrible idea to remove the butterfly plates from them in any case. They're not really doing much for you, and if the motors fail 'closed' your screwed if they are still there. You'll have a code, but with no plates in the TGVs it doesn't matter. You have all the time in the world to replace the motor/sensor.

2 hours ago, pleiadesfella said:

welp, she's gone. sold it this morning for not that much money to a local guy who wanted to fix it up for his son. wasn't worth it for me to put back on the road due to the expensive power steering repairs and all around brake rotors/pads it needed for inspection. that was my first ever car and I hope it has a good life afterwards.

now my focus is on my spec b, which I'm conflicted between selling and then importing a JDM legacy or keeping and pouring more money into. don't get me wrong, I love my spec b, but I mentioned before that I feel bad since it sat so long under my ownership due to extended winter storage + small but annoying issues popping up that prevent me from driving it. at this point I'm thinking of a relatively fresh start by selling it off and importing a low mileage, automatic JDM TBSTI as the ultimate all-round fun daily.

my spec b is going into the low idle related repair on friday. a new o2 sensor will be put in, but now I also suspect there's a leak in the intake system from a vacuum line, or the pcv valve is sticking. if the new sensor, new air filter and intake system check on friday doesn't solve the issue, the car's just going to keep sitting until the pcv valve can be replaced as I don't wanna risk driving it and blowing it up. here's to hoping it gets sorted.

JDM import is going to cost more in the long run than just fixing the Spec B, I would guess….

Rust free body aside anyway….

Pain in the ass getting hard to find JDM only parts here in Canada…

Take that pic to someone who can Tig aluminium and ask if they’d fill it.

I wouldn’t risk the time and effort to build a block with that big of a ding near a water jacket unless it could be fixed.

You won’t like the answer(s).

1 - Any engine, if you have deep enough pockets.

2 - Another of the same EJ20Y (?) that you have in there.

3 - Best bet is to go single turbo on that thing and delete the unfixable drop off between the sequential turbos….

Manual swap?!

12 minutes ago, Kojak said:

Soo, my undertray has been toast since a possum strike in late February. Finally got around to searching and sho nuff, my specific model needs are for a part that is discontinued. Heuberger confirmed same. Wondered if anyone has experience w either the Rallitek or Primitive Racing skid plates. Both in OR, just a few dollars difference in price. Bit overkill for my general use but lowered/clearance considerations do arise. Much as I’m tempted to run naked down under, I shudder to think what may have taken the blow without coverage. Also tired of being ‘that guy’ when I back up in the preschool parking lot. Scrapes like a somamabitch. And we’re way past zip ties here. 

Probably both great. I am very happy with my Primitive skid plate + rear diff guard. Customer service was excellent and they send me new bolts when it turned out that the short ones do NOT fit over a Killer B header. I got the thinner one and it is plenty of protection for street use.
 

Makes a strong arguement for having an 'oil udder' style funnel for oil changes.... but that is relatively normal across the board. The EL headers just make the situation worse.

Interesting. I guess that’s why I mention it.

Universally accessible photos make most sense. Also kind of annoying having to download a picture to see it.

On a PC?

35 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I found this local to me, but it says 08+ STi. Isn’t this what I want though?

Yes? But I'd see if I could knock some off that price.

I think paid under $80 for a brand new STi FPR and just used the hoses that were currently in my engine bay to do the job.

Then again, I guess $20 for fancy hoses that clip on isn't such a bad deal, if they actually reach where they need to in your engine bay....

13 hours ago, sleepyxt said:

Hey I know this is an old thread but anyone have a BP mod they can sell or at leat a parts list and some Intel on what needs to be done. It looks like aluminum U channel with some holes drilled through and one side cut down some. And help would be much appreciated. Thanks

Yeah. Just u-channel and some stainless zip ties.

I made my own based on instructions BarmanBean sent me. I could find the file and pass it along if you like.

The stubby bit at the bottom of the IC is not needed in my opinion, simply because the channels on the top And bottom of the IC would have to faiL before it would matter.

I also found that I had to hammer the channels on so hard that the ‘drilled holes and bolts were overkill and left them off. If you run so much boost that they can be made to stretch and come off the IC, you have bigger problems than a zip tie not holding things together.

Or I also have my bulletproofed IC somewhere that I would sell on. Went to a GS TMIC and won’t be going back to stock….

On 11/27/2023 at 9:35 AM, jaylew said:

Didn't get a picture with it fully in the car, but believe me it fit. Everyone at home depot was extra skeptical. Love proving people that wagons are better than SUV's everyday!

Wagon >>> SUV

Too far of a drive for @BoozeRS05 this year?!

1 hour ago, squidflakes said:

Ok, fun update! 

I probably over did it matching up the sensor wires to the DIY harness work-around but the sensor went in, the car started, the CEL for the sensor went away and I went for a nice drive cycle to try and get this thing to pass emissions. 

 

Then the rear diff blew out on the freeway! 

 

Oh jeeez.

Compared to my cars, yeah. Especially when you look at the 4th gen vs modern stuff. Not a fan of big cars, but to each their own.

The size of the new Subarus is why I’ll probably never buy one. Just keep my fingers crossed the Levorg gets here somehow. (That and the touchscreens….)

On 5/16/2024 at 9:50 AM, jonnyt88 said:

Cloudy headlights.   The Passenger side is all broken and shit on the sides.   I'm thinking its time to just replace them.  Amazon has a blackened set for $200.. Might be easier than getting a junk yard set and baking/painting them.  I haven't checked Ebay.  If anyone has purchased any black sets, share them up!

 

Seen any of the acetone vapor repair videos? If I hadn't already sanded back my spare set to clear coat, I would probably be going that route + a ceramic coating to protect them.

You can DIY, but the little heated pots are pretty cheap online as well....

Better that than to be lazy and half ass a job.

Do it right and all, but I can assure you +\- 0.2 oz of oil either way won’t break your A/C!

Hope your brother in law appreciates the hard work you’re putting into this for him.

5 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

has me overthinking this

yes

2 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

We need to get rid of this English measuring system

Yeah ya do.