coco26

Everything that he said. I just did mine and got the Aisin kit from RockAuto. The pulley's are all koyo bearings (good) and the belt is from Mitsubishi. It hurts me to see the brand new (wrong) water pump still in the box every time I see it, though, so I'd at least do the math on cost for going full OEM vs mix and match. I also second the manifold drop method. Here's the post in the DIY sticky about the coolant pipes: https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5673463&postcount=11 The Kinugawa braided flexible lines are another cheaper option that I did, but I think I'd go with OEM if I did it again. Not thrilled with their fitment.

Same problem, 2 of my 3 plastic plates actually fell out the last time I messed with it. I notice mine buffeting a little at high speeds with the sunroof open, but otherwise I forget about it.

Interesting. You're right. I wonder what's so different about it that it's double the price if its not meant for STI's.

They changed the name from Extra S to "high performance gear oil" a year or two ago I think. My local dealer only had it in quarts. I flushed and filled with it about 120 miles ago and so far I'm not impressed - I'll be going back to motul gear 300 next time.

I had similar symptoms when I bypassed the two pin switch by jumpering it. You replaced the switch, so maybe check the wiring on the car side to make sure there isn't an issue there?

As far as I know, most members on here that have them (like me) get the ebay version, and buy their own bulbs to put in. I have led's in mine.

Depends pretty heavily on where you drive. In Upstate New York, there's an occasional Valero, some Mobil's, and the standard sunoco's. In the Pittsburgh area, its limited to Exxon and BP mainly. When I lived in Texas, Valero and Shell were the most common. Sometimes they can be out of the way, so plan it into getting groceries or visiting friends that might be near one. In New York, I've found Speedway to be reliably good even though they aren't registered as Top Tier. Not sure if they're around Mass...

Modern engines are calibrated to be right on the edge of knock - that's where the most efficient point is. Pulling around two degrees of timing when the engine is making good power (on its recommended fuel) is pretty standard from a production calibration perspective. That being said, you can get a very small bit of power back from that two degrees, say by putting 93 octane in a car intended to run 87, as its almost guaranteed to have no knock. Personally, I've found its very important where you get your gas from. Stations like those at walmart and grocery stores usually get fuels as cheap as they can, meaning their quality control and additives are lacking. Out of the two times I've gotten gas from a walmart, both times I could physically feel the engine running rougher by the time I got out of the parking lot than when I had pulled in. Now, I try to only get Top Tier gas. Top Tier is a sort of "members club" of gas stations whose fuels meet a higher standard of quality. Obviously this is based on my own experiences, but its my way of preventing excessive carbon build up.

Looks like another 2012 GT has made it to the end of its time: 4S3BMFK63C1035230 https://www.copart.com/lot/40375489

Wish you had found that a week earlier... Yes, 4140 is stronger compared to 4130. That means walls can be thinner, ideally making the whole part lighter, which could definitely benefit it. Not sure how the comparison works out between billet 4140 (what that looks like) and forged 4130 though. Decent deal too considering it comes with the pivot ball. That makes it cheaper than the verus set.

Bigger listing coming soon, but today I realized I was foiled by the parts catalog. Long story short, subaru parts sites list both 20401AJ00A and 20401AJ08A for the 2013 2.5i front sway bar. Both the pictures are the same, same price, I assumed one was a supercession of the other. Saw the -J08A number in the suspension sticky, listed 2.5i in the fitment listings, so I went with that one. Installed it while I had the engine out this past weekend, look under the car, and find its against both the exhaust and oil pan. Come back to suspension sticky, realize -J08A is for 3.6R, am disappointed. Can anyone confirm 20401AJ00A is correct for a 2.5i/GT?

Anybody here running the Kinugawa coolant line kit have any issues with leaks?

If it continues to bother you, Ed from XRT (a tuner) has a calibration for the 5EAT that changes when it shifts. Its optimized for performance, but I'm sure it smooths out some of the gear hunting too. I believe there are a few members on here that use it.

Can you see the wastegate duty cycle in torque? It could very well be an issue with plumbing, but I'm curious if the ecu is "disabling" or significantly reducing the duty cycle on the bcs for some reason. It should set a code before it goes all the way to spring pressure, but could be an easy check. If that looks ok, I'd give the bcs connector a jiggle to check for loose connection/broken wires. Now that I re-read your post, how were you testing your bcs? In my experience, the boost->WG route should be open when unpowered, and closed when powered. I'm not sure if that's how our's work, but from a calibration perspective, if the solenoid fails, you want that path to be open so you don't make full boost all the time. The duty cycle should also tell you if its working backwards.

I've seen a number of SS's on the road since they came out... never seen one without Holden badges. It's pretty amusing

I'll be replacing my clutch next weekend, and am doing this as a preventative measure. You can't get the billet ones now - they're forged for even more strength. Its a very chunky unit.

Can't make out the part number from the picture, but everything seems to match up: https://www.ebay.com/i/262307252631?chn=ps

Installed the sun light sensor countermeasure part, pretty straightforward. Time will tell if it works. Also replaced my driver side puddle lights and fuse. I knew the fuse was going to be blown because of the lack of waterproofing on the lights, but I found a much more interesting failure. Both lights not only had moisture, but had actual dirt inside the lens (and packed in the connector), and the LED's themselves were broken off the circuit board and were just bouncing around. Neat.

The interesting badge placement and chrome strip above the license plate makes me wonder if its the original trunk lid, even though it says it has a clean carfax... Not sure why anyone would voluntarily replace that piece.

Yes ^^ I put the 20mm on within 3 weeks of owning the car. I got new basic MOOG endlinks from the local auto parts store because the stock ones were too rusted to get off the stock bar. During that process I drove to the store without any RSB... yikes. I wouldn't call the 20mm a huge transformation, but its certainly a big improvement. I can see why people get the adjustable 22mm one, but I'd buy the 20mm again just because of the price difference. Lift off oversteer is definitely present, but I wouldn't call it twitchy. You either know when its coming or you have to force it to happen if that's your goal. Since I put it on, I've been thinking "The rear is pretty flat, but now the front needs some help..." Update on that coming in about 2 weeks.

You are correct - the "wideband" AFR sensors will be at the front of your cats (labelled 5 and 12) and the more basic O2's will be towards the rear of the cats (labelled 4 and 11)

I deleted their email so I wouldn't look at it and now this... These shouldn't require any porting right?

Just out of curiosity, has anyone ever gotten Brembos to fit under 17's? I imagine if they only fit some 18's that they wouldn't even be close to fitting 17's. Trying to come up with any reason to un-enable myself...

This is all I know: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/seat-swaps-262813.html?t=262813&highlight=seat+swap Not sure how the mounting works out exactly, but I'm willing to fabricate anything necessary to safely mount whatever I end up with. Sounds like the airbags should be plug and play, at least with USDM seats

I've been on the hunt for a good pair of fronts for some time now... The rears look a little beat up (not that it matters, I wouldn't use them anyway) but that's a pretty good price. Right now I have my eye on a set of JDM recaro's. Hardest part is airbags.