jrho

Are you talking about 9.5inch wide wheels? If so, generally most people don't go that route as it involves a decent amount of work. I ran 18x9.5 et38 wheels on my 4th gen wagon and I was on coilovers, rolled and pulled fenders front and rear and on a stretched 235/40/18 tire.

Looks like the Raijin only comes in a +45 offset for an 18x8.5 5x100 so you should not have any issues. On stock suspension like it's been mentioned you should be fine without rolling your fenders but if you bump up to a 245 there might be some clearance issues on compression. If you're fine with doing a roll, it's probably not a bad idea to do it in case you decide to lower your car in the future.

Photo of my wagon before it was parted out and sold stock

I disabled my DRLs and only turned on my headlights when it got dark. I've driven by plenty of cops and never once was bothered for not having DRLs. It's a legal requirement to sell a new car or import a car into Canada but I've never seen it actually enforced

Got a deposit for my wagon yesterday and will be off to it's new owner come Saturday. Car made my first Subaru ownership pretty fantastic and will definitely be missed.

Which lip did you order? You generally have to play around with a heat gun and trim the ends off to make them work

I've had mine installed for over a year now with no issues. I wonder if it's not actually the SmartTap relay itself but a grounding issue that managed to fix itself when you reinstalled the other relay?

Was trying to diagnose a stupid electrical problem most of the weekend. Last week I noticed that when my headlights are turned on, none of the running lights were on. I hadn't made any recent changes other than washing my car. In an attempt to diagnose things, also found my left Valenti tail lights aren't working either. Swapped on the factory tail lights and found a burnt tail (clearance light fuse) but still no bueno. Check all the fuses, relays and the headlight switch and parking light switch and they all checked out so I figure it's a stupid ground or wiring issue somewhere. Parking lights come on when the light stalk is set to parking but they all turn off with when the headlights are selected. I HATE electrical

As much as I love the look of my Work Emotion CR Kiwamis, coming from using TE37s for winter duties it was pretty drastic how much sluggish the car feels with the extra weight. Found a set of CE28RT Black Edition wheels in 18x9.5 et40 locally so pretty excited to see the difference they'll make!

Possible yes if you're a wizard with electronics. I remember seeing someone do that but the complexity is within the realm of professionals

Changed oil, lowered the coilovers to the final summer height and installed a set of SPC camber bolts in the front. Should have booked an alignment sooner but getting that done next weekend

Gloss Metallic Black would be an easier route for sure as you wouldn't have to wrap the door jams etc. I've always thought that if you stray too far from the original colour then you're going to have to pay attention to details like that. Being said, since your colour is fairly dark to begin with you might not need to wrap door jams and such with the White but it might make panel gaps appear larger.

Took some shots recently because my drive to work surprisingly didn't cover my car in bugs. Can't wait to bring the ride height down a bit and add some negative camber with the suspension goodies I keep delaying on installing! Also my front undertray is getting wrecked lately with my commute so it's hanging down haha

I might be wrong but they look like the OEM STI Enkei wheels. 18x8.5 et55 but with an adapter as they would be 5x114

Factory tire size (at least for the north american LGTs) as well so shouldn't cause any issues. Personal opinion, but if you're going to change out your wheels I would recommend with going with something wider in width to fit wider tires!

So got a trade request for my 18x9.5 et38 Work Emotion CR Kiwami for a set of 18x10 et36 Rotiform TMB 2 Piece wheels (pictured below). Although I really like how my current set up looks with the white, I do love me some dish and like the fact that the Rotiforms are a forged wheel as well. Decisions, decisions

It all depends on the tire manufacturer as they can run wide, narrow or anything inbetween for the same tire size. Best to look at the tire section width to determine what the "true" width would be

Could it be a sticking wastegate issue? I've never had a boost leak shift when turbo lag ended before

I asked in the for sale thread but figured I'd ask here too and sorry if it was already answered. How much wider are the fenders and what are they made out of? Looks like a good excuse for me to run a wider wheel and tire

Looks like your wheels are based off of the Gram Lights 57xtreme wheels. Also a split 5 spoke design but your face is more angular. They do get dirty pretty fast but it doesn't help that I mainly drive on dirt and gravel roads for work. Ceramic coating them makes it a lot easier to clean though so I think it's worth it despite them only being spotless for a short amount of time after cleaning haha. Encourages me to regularly wash my car

New summer wheels are mounted on the car along with my eBay CS2 style front lip! I have some more suspension goodies to put on but will be waiting until I'm done my term working in Edson. Hope to bring the car lower and add some more negative camber to dial in the fitment. Tires are a bit taller than I like so might be stepping down to a 225/40/18 later this summer. Cobb downpipe is in with the generic Stage 2 tune. The extra power is welcome but I'm more pleased with the additional sound. Sounds great around town and when stepping on it but no difference from stock on the highway which is what I wanted. With the exception of torn front inner CV boots which I replaced this past weekend, car is still chugging along at almost 240k kms (~150k miles). Photo by a friend:

As long as your spare diameter is the same or pretty close to the diameter of your new wheels and tires you should be good. I'm sure the awd system would have a field day if the diameters were severely mismatched

If you don't want to stretch your tires, minimum would be a 255 wide but a 265 or 275 would be more ideal. Like it's been mentioned, that is an extremely aggressive wheel and you'll need fender flares or likely stancenation worthy negative camber to get them to fit (it'll be about 2 inches of poke compared to a stock wheel and tire)

Not today but over the weekend, replaced both of the front inner CV boots. Went the route of leaving the axles in the car still and overall was pretty easy other than trying to get the axle together. Would have been a lot easier with a second set of hands but oh wells. Also have been talking with a guy to potentially trade wheels with. For some reason I want to try to run 10 inch wide on my car when I already have 9.5 inch haha

What size tire? I'm running some stretched 235/40 on my 18x9.5 et38 but don't really have any rubbing issues although I did have to pull the front fenders.