jrho

Installed my KW V2s in this weekend and they feel awesome despite having an unknown amount of mileage on them. I set them at the lowest range of the recommended ride height from KWs instructions and they ride great. Slightly firmer than stock with a much more planted feel. Making my wheels and tires work with the height required some fender work. Rolled the rears flat and rolled and pulled the fronts a bit to prevent any rubbing. Removed the front fender liners as well as my tires would touch them on any micro bump. Will probably have to go back and modify the where the bumper tab on the front fenders as I'm hitting those on decent bumps. Here's some crappy phone photos until I get around to actually getting some decent pictures

A small slip on spacer such as a 5mm should be okay. Anything thicker, I would get extended wheel studs or bolt on spacers instead. Sounds like you only need a small slip on though

Got my new summer wheel and tire combo mounted up yesterday. I will be running black Work Emotion D9R wheels in 18x9.5 et38 with Michelin Pilot Sport 3s in 235/40/18. Turned out to be more stretched than I initially thought but that may help me when I throw on my coilovers for clearance. Regardless I knew I would be doing a flat roll and some fender pulling to make these fit. Here's some photos of the fitment at stock height. This was just a test fit and I won't actually be running them until I get my coilovers on. Don't mind the dirty car, we're finally getting warmer weather and my car sees more offroad action that most people with Jeeps because of work haha.

On most of my cars that I've slammed, I've either cut out sections of the fender liner or just removed it all together and tucked/relocated any wires that I may potentially run into issues with. Alternatively if you're only rubbing on the fender liners, you could heat up sections with a heat gun and try to "mold" them further away.

Patiently waiting for winter to be over so I can install my coilovers... Hit 200k kms driving to Edson from Edmonton last night.

Thanks! I didn't do the retrofit myself as I bought the set up from a forum member. I have been toying with the idea of doing a retrofit to the original headlights along with some other lighting modifications and it doesn't seem to bad from what I've read

From when I was doing research, I think the Swifts are meant to be used with JDM Bilsteins but I could be wrong. With non Spec B suspension, they will be lower than advertised especially in the front. I liked the fact that Swift makes a set for the sedan and the wagon so I went that route until I ended up buying coilovers haha

Thanks. I'm pretty happy with how clean the OEM Subaru Rack is! Got around to installing my Valenti LED taillights last week. Still on the fence on how I feel about them being Dark Smoke but it's been slowly growing on me. Might tint the reverse lights to dark up the rear so they don't stick out so much either.

Interesting FWD conversion. Happen to know why that was done? I've seen a few people do that to run extreme amounts of negative camber in the rear (silly I know)

Hey my parents and fiancee live in Edmonton so I'm in town a decent amount. Would be cool to meet another LGT wagon owner! Originally I was going to refresh the suspension with new struts, top hats and my Swift lowering springs that I bought for Christmas. A fellow forum member shot me a message about some coilovers that were for sale and I ended up picking up a set of used KW Variant 2 coilovers! Really excited to put these on the car once the weather warms up.

Kind of surprised that you're getting that much rub on the stock suspension with those wheel and tires specs. I ran 255/35/18 on a 9.5 et38 on stock height for the fun of it and I didn't get any rub... You'll definitely need to do a fender roll since you're rubbing already. A 225 tire would be better as that would be more in line with the factory diameter. Clearance wise you'll be about the same as you'll gain pretty minimal natural camber from the springs.

For bang for your buck, I would do the suspension modifications and get a good set of performance tires. I usually recommend getting your suspension first in terms of coilovers, set your ride height and then shop for wheels and tires. That way you have a much clearer understanding of how much clearance you will have.

The Tein Basis coilovers reuse the factory top hats and don't have camber plates right? If you're talking about the camber adjustment of the factory suspension, front you're probably looking at less than a degree of adjustment (probably more like 0.5 degree of adjustment) and the rear you cannot adjust. I doubt you'll need a ton of camber for that wheel and tire set up. I'd suggest just getting the whiteline rear camber KCA399. The factory rear toe adjustment might be a limiting factory so you may require rear toe arms as well. You could spend the extra money and get the adjustable toe and camber arms to almost future proof your suspension too.

Current winter mode. Picked up a used ski box for relatively cheap. Coming from using Thule ski clips in the past, this was a really nice change. Don't have to worry about rocks damaging your equipment and it didn't really add any noticeable noise which same can't be said for my previous ski clips....

Thanks! They're FWD sadly. Honestly if they were AWD, I probably would have kept it but at almost 300 whp and 320 lbft they're decently quick and quite a handful. The Mazdaspeed6 were AWD but it was a part-time system so still not the best option.

Going to be documenting the progress of my 2007 Subaru Legacy GT wagon. My previous car was a full bolt ons and stance orientated 2008 Mazdaspeed3 After deciding against going either air suspension or big turbo, I decided to sell that car after 4.5 years of ownership. I've always had a soft spot for Legacy GT wagons and funny enough I came across this car when it was being sold by the original owner when I was buying my Speed3. Bought the car on February 17, 2017 with 161,000 kms. I'm the third owner and was hunting for manual wagon so was really happy when I came across this example. First day of ownership (excuse the dirtiness of the car it was during a warm day and they spray dirt and sand on the winter roads here). The car was up for a lot of maintenance so the first things I did were the timing belt, water pump, headgaskets, valve cover gaskets, oil cooler gasket, AEM drop in air filter and K&N cabin air filter. A Cobb Accessport was one of my first modifications on my previous Mazda, so I picked up a V3 Accessport not soon after as a way to monitor vitals and be able to tune for any future modifications. Winter tires were mounted on the OEM wheels and I had a set of Nitto Motivo all seasons in the OEM sizing from the previous owner so I bought a cheap set of TSW Trackstar 5 wheels (pretty much replicas of Work CR Kai wheels) and used them for a summer as the all seasons didn't have much life with them anyways. I was very disappointed coming from OEM Xenon headlights on my Speed3 to the dim halogen headlights on the Legacy so I picked up a set of retrofitted headlights off of one of the forum members. Deleted ambers, blacked out housing, TSX projectors and D2S bulbs made for a huge upgrade in lighting and looks. I work in a small oil and gas town and frequently drive back on weekends to my parents place which is 2 hours through the country so having a proper lighting set up was key. Current modifications: Performance/Drivetrain: - Cobb V3 Accessport running OTS Stage 2 tune - Cobb catted downpipe - AEM drop in panel air filter (isn't really a modification but oh well) - Moroso Oil Pickup - KW Variant 2 Coilovers Lighting: - Retrofitted D2S HID Acura TSX projectors, blacked housing, deleted ambers - Diode Dynamics Flasher Relay - Morimoto LED Switchback turn signals - Prolightz Interior LED kit - Valenti Dark Smoke LED taillights Interior: - Tomei Duracon Shift Knob - Homelink, auto-dimming, compass mirror - Blackvue dashcam with Power Magic Pro - JDM Double Din HVAC Controls - JDM Hazard Switch - Sony XAV-AX100 - Weather-Tech Floor Mats Exterior: - OEM flush type cross bars - Thule Force L 628 roof box - eBay CS2 style front lip Footwork: - Work Emotion CR Kiwami 18x9.5 et38 w/ Michelin Pilot Sport 3 235/40/18 (summer) - Work Emotion D9R wheels 18x9.5 et38 w/ Michelin Pilot Sport 3 235/40/18 (summer) Previous - Volk TE37 17x7.5 et48 w/ Federal Himalaya 215/45/17 (winter) - Work Black Lug Nuts - Rolled rear fenders - Rolled and pulled front fenders, trimmed fender liners and shaved front bumper tab Parts awaiting install: - SPC camber bolts for front - Whiteline KTA124

That offset would work too. At an offset of 30 he's basically going to make contact with the fender edge during compressions depending on how low it is. At a 48 offset it should fit and you should only need a mild fender roll if you're lowered.

Well you'll have a taller sidewall with the 235/45 compared with 225/45. If it were the same tire then you would have more sidewall flex but you're going from a performance tire to a semi slick so that might not be the case... As for fitting, they're fit but you might hit your fender lips under compression if they haven't been rolled

Clearance wise you'll be fine for inner clearance but you may need to roll your fenders with the Swift springs for outer clearance. At a 235/35/19, you'll have a taller diameter compared to the stock set up (a bit less than an inch taller) which might cause contact with the fender liners on bumps. If you want to run 19s then you're pretty much limited to running really thin sidewalls to stay reasonably close to the stock rolling diameter. If you're after a more performance orientated set up but like the look of bigger wheels, I would go to 18s unless you're willing to tolerate the harsher ride and more expensive tire prices of 19s

You can basically keep that same approach. I've seen a lot of examples of 18x9.5 wheels at a 38 offset and your 18x8.5 with a 30 offset will be have a bit less poke (about 5mm). It really depends on how low you want to go and how much camber you're comfortable running to determine whether you need to stretch tires

The AWD system works off of the diameter of the front and rear tires. Running the same size tires on staggered wheels will work as the change in diameter will be pretty negligible. I'm assuming that this would be for 17s because 18s in that size would be pretty massive

I'll add to what has been said by SBT, additional things you're going to have to consider if you want to stay as a stock bodied car is how much camber you're willing to run and if you're willing to do fender work. If you're okay with running the naturally gained negative camber from lowering your car, it seems like you'll be able to have the toe reasonably within the factory settings. However once you start changing the rear camber (front camber should be able to be changed using top hats with camber adjustment) you'll want to consider going with aftermarket camber and toe arms for the rear. As for fender modifications you can do anything from a mild fender roll to an aggressive fender roll and pull for more outer clearance. If you end up going the fender flares route then I would recommend trying to find a set of wheels and tires in the specs that you want to run to determine the size of flare you want to run. Also in terms of spacers, I highly recommend trying to get a set of wheels with the offset you're desiring than trying to mimic a lower offset wheel. However if you do go through the spacer route, make sure they're hubcentric and from a reputable company. I've seen too many horror stories from poorly made spacers.

I would recommend going with a 8.5" wide wheel if you want to run a 245. Offset wise on stock suspension, you can run the +42 with no issues assuming that those are your only two options.

You'd be amazed at what you can get away with on stock suspension. I test fit a 18x9.5 et38 with 245/35 tires and didn't rub at all. Just looked really monster truck and poked like mad haha