Beanboy

Lots of folks are like that though. Look at all the restored cars for sale. Many enjoy the process of restoring/modding, and after some enjoyment of the finished product, get bored and want to start again. I fall into the opposite camp. I spend a lot of time, too much time, researching big ticket items, get what I want, and keep them for years and years. As for other cars, nothing really falls into matching what I want in a car, another reason I guess I don't mind laying out cash for mods. I wanted a wagon/hatch, RWD/AWD, manual transmission, and either amazing stock or modded performance potential. That right there elimated all but a handful of Subaru, Audi, and BMW vehicles. With the Audis and BMWs, I would have to have paid at least triple the initial/mod cost to match performance, nevermind the additional higher insurance and maintenance costs.

Ayup, one of the reasons I'm liking the all-at-once approach. even with all the possible additional headaches.

Bring up some good points SSpeed. I thought about a staged approach as well for months and months, hehe. There is certainly something tempting about a TMIC and turbo upgrade along with pump and injectors and calling it a day. especially since I would probably be happy with it for a couple of years. Costs, complications and reliability issues would all certainly be much less. However, made the mistake with my last car of going very slowly with mods, and ended up enjoying the last round for only a year or so before getting rid of the car when it was 8.5 years old. There's also the time spent selling used parts and sourcing new/used parts. Rather deal with it in one go. I most certainly will be keeping the LGT wagon for at least as long, if not longer. It serves so many roles so well, and I want to enjoy the mods for as long as possible. The setup I'm aiming for is really my dream Subaru wagon, meeting 98%+ of what I want in a car, and should keep me happy for many, many years. If I want more power, there's the option of some internal trans/engine work and sticking on the biggest stock location turbo possible, WI and an EWG without having to replace much at all on the setup. Modding never makes financial sense, so let's get that out of the way. To rationalise the expense, I am lucky enough to have the play money resources, the car is paid off, I have a great Subaru performance shop literally a few miles away and I don't use the car to get to work. I think one of the biggest reasons though, and this might sound extremly weird to some, is the excitement factor. The day I see and hear the car roll off the dyno and hit the road, I'm going to be floating a foot off the ground. Lame? Materialistic? Probably. But I think the first time I drive it will make it worth it. And so will the first time I have passengers in it, the first time I see a STI driver looking past my wagon with a canoe on the roof looking for the other burbling STI at a light, the first time I get a decent shove while accelerating on the highway, etc... Maybe I am going about it wrong, will certainly say that in this thread in six months if that is the case!

Boost is a definite according to everybody, but EGT over oil pressure you say? Hmm, you can stuff 3, what, 40mm gauges in the cubby area? How about boost/oil pressure and a knock light?

O RLY Bosco? What did you end up going with? Seems OEM WRX '06 flywheel and ACT Street Clutch are a popular option: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55859

So it begins! Mix of what I've read here, NASIOC and shop advice has lead me to the following. I want a daily driver with around 350AWHP. Why 350? Hopefully keep the engine and transmission internals happy, also largest reasonable turbo that's IWG, and decent spool...that's why! Also looking to sharpen up feedback and tighten up the suspension as well. Cost isn't as much of an object versus ease of install, meeting my specifications, and most importantly, longevity of parts. The below setup will be on car for at least 5+ years, will be daily driven, and will be used for a half dozen various auto events a year. I don't want to deal with shoddy bits failing/causing failures 6 months down the road. Yes, I know there's always a gamble of increasing power, especially at this level. However, I don't want the parts themselves being the reason because of failure (headers asplode)/causing little headache-type issues (CEL thrown steady state cruising rear O2 sensor location in downpipe). build complete, here is what is on the car: FP 20G 8cm 3" inlet turbo ~$1200 Purchased Shop likes FP, 3" inlet will help with spool, 8cm housing will help with high-end. Seems to be a good turbo for pump-only fuel and my target of around 350awhp DW 740cc injectors ~$500 and a $160 injector return refund I think every review I've seen has had good things to say about these injectors, will match up with the turbo nicely. Injector exchange to boot. MadDad headers (coated) ~$700 Ah yes, aftermarket exhaust headers. So many stories about cracking/not making that much more power/noise. All that is said and done, I want the power they provide. The MadDad's seem to be the best of the bunch in terms of no cracking, 3 bolt uppipe to keep that pesky connection sealed tight, and are offered with an inside and outside coating. Perrin 3" turbo inlet pipe $~275 Intake manifold coming off anyway, making this 3" pipe install possible. Hose routing an issue? Any advice appreciated... AVO fuel pump (complete) $599, minus the $250 exchange/maybe just $300 pump. Seems to be a fairly easy install. Easy way to go, with core exchange. Heard nothing but good things about the AVO pump option. JDM TGV deletes ~$199 Frees up a bit of power, allows the 3" inlet SuperPro LCA bushings (standard) ~$125 Purchased I don't like the Camry feedback inputs I get from the LGT, from what I've read here these LCA bushings while not magic, help a lot in getting the LGT to feel more like a performance car. Group N transmission mount ~$65 The engine/transmission mounts on my car are loosening up after 3 years. Getting the ol' stick moving around when getting hard on/off the throttle. Front and rear shifter bushings ~$30 Purchased Not set on brand, but they are fairly simple pieces so not too worried in deciding which company to go with. As above, I want to sharpen up the response/feel of the LGT, these bushings will do that for the shifter. Don't care about shifter length or throws. AVO FMIC $1300 Expensive, but able to keep fogs (not so important, but kinda neat) and seems to be engineered well, both in components and fitment (notch around stock battery tray for example). Will need to clock WRX-style turbo and maybe new actuator mount to work (a boo). Suspension Bilstein wagon JDM SpecB Rev A takeoffsm everything included $700-$800 Purchased I want stock ride-height and stock longevity Gauges (boost and oil pressure) Prosport ~$180for gauges/hardware/pod Would like to go with cubby pod that holds two 52mm gauges and can still close the door, interior sleeper! I have more research to do here in terms of what to choose, so I really shouldn't be asking for advice yet, but I'll take any. BCS Prodrive Purchased Lots of folks like to go aftermarket. Is it required for my setup? From my limited understanding, an aftermarket electronic unit makes it a bit easier to hold target boost levels, get to it more quickly, and keeps the car from overboosting when target boost is hit. Correct? Intake AVO AVO's CAI seems to be a little shorter than other CAIs, assume it works with the AVO FMIC, and is rumored to drop MAF readings by 10%, which should be enough. one-step colder plugs no clue what brand yet, figure shop has a favorite they use. update: NGK BKR7EIX 3" Catted Downpipe Cobb Some folks seem to have had install issues, others haven't. Not too worried since if it only requires a little heating/bending, might be the way I go since there is no need to modify to fit a flanged 3" midpipe to it. Clutch and Flywheel ACT 05+ Legacy GT Street Disk Clutch Kit ~$700

I skipped a lot of pages, but the last few warm my heart. Homemade inserts are nice! Avoided diving in, but after three years, everything is loosening up. Time for a complete bushing overall. The AWD aspect makes for huge drivetrain movin' and shakin'. So much damn slack...

The getting used to it factor. 300HP begins to feel like 250HP after a while. A boo...

The more I think about this, the longer the list grows! Oh noes, where and when does it stop?

I've seen the red LGT wagon a number of times about a mile from my house in JP/Roslindale. Gotta go park beside it for a photo one of these days.

Haven't asked for suggestions...yet. I'm clear on some stuff less so on others, will be a later post. Happy with the brakes. Bobcat pads, stainless steel coated lines, and synth fluid really firmed up the brake feel. There's still that initial GM pedal travel which would be nice to get rid of, but at least the brake feel is better. Do get a noise once in a while, but not a big deal to me. Hmm, isn't there a brace out somewhere for the master cylinder? Or is that only for STIs? As far as handling goes looking at three options, two of which are fairly new to the scene. Megan Outback coilovers, Bilstein HD combined with some flavor spring that retains stock ride height as much as possible, or LGT JDM wagon takeoffs, still working on what revisions and models mean what in terms of stiffness. I need ground clearance for dirt roads and winter, and the roads are fairly rough around here. Want something that hits that really tough blend of decent ride with good handling, something the Germans seem to be the best at. Really rough list: above-mentioned suspension bits some flavor of F+R roll bars that keep the car in slight understeer/neutral level (along with rear bracket reinforcement and endlinks) FMIC that retains bumper beam, don't care about fogs (avo?) Some flavor 20G/Avo 4xx-sized turbo DW 740 injectors fuel pump...(avo?) catted aftermarket midpipe (crucial) and X02 catback (hopefully resonator version out soon) headers, something that keeps as much ground clearance as possible (coated crosspipe and ported manifolds might be only option) shifter bushings steering rack bushings group N transmission mount poly LCA bushings intake, AEM CAI seems fairly popular TGV deletes

Of course! Not just going engine mods, all of it. tires, wheels, roll bars, springs/struts, bushings... Not going more power without suspension changes. Although it would be fairly amusing to drive...for about five minutes. Only reason I did the braces so early was to keep things as tight as they could be while the car was new, knowing that I'd be hitting washboard roads in the years ahead.

A yesss... With the Megan Outback coilovers and Bilstein HD hitting the market a little while ago, figure I now have multiple options that will fit what I want. Along with that comes the antiroll bars, and now that the RE92s have been battered and abused, time to ditch them as well. Stock sized tires will perform just fine, the bling factor of 17x8s and 245s have my attention. Really didn't want to take anything off the car right away, wanted to get a feel for what I wanted handling-wise and wear/tire out suspension bits before removing anything.

wukindada, you gots a PM. GRP wagon wuv FTW Hmm... I'm not seeing many disadvantages people.

Oh yes, I know from my limited tweaking everything takes three times longer than I think it will, which is four times longer than what the folks saying the parts will be ready say. As for shop time, I may tackle a bit myself with some help. Say antiroll bars/coilovers/some bushings before I head to a shop for stuff like pressing LCAs/dyno/corner balancing/alignment/balancing tires. Same goes for midpipe/catback. Might save the turbo/FMIC/headers for the place that will tune the car so I don't have to deal with an emailed "limp" tune or flatbedding the car. Not sure I want to practice my self-tuning yet, although I will certainly be paying attention as the car is tuned (especially if using open source solution). I'm gonna start asking folks that have done all this already and see what their experience has been like. So disadvantages so far: Longer down time, get parts ready. More $$$ all at once. Anybody mention/have issues with if there is a problem, tracking it down since 5 things have been changed at once?

Ayup, I've read many a thread here over the past three years. End goal is around the ~350WHP (yes I'm reading the thread) mark. Why? Like to keep the internals happy. No guarantee I know, but there's fair amount of folks that say that's a decent number in terms of internal engine life. Same goes for the transmission and diffs. I won't be rocking the dragstrip more than once maybe twice a year, so hopefully I might only have to worry about the clutch at somepoint. Thread is more about doing it all at once, along with not just one area but all areas of the car, versus doing over time, and the advantages and disadvantages about going that route. Thinking FMIC, since I know in a couple of years I'll toss in WI, and/or bigger turbo without having to deal with a FMIC then.

Probably should have mentioned what I've already done... UP/shorty DP, tune, ss lines, bobcat pads, under braces. Been on the car anywhere from 20-24 months. Custom tuned for about 18 months now. Took the car to a road course (NHIS) track school, autocross, autocross school, rallycross, dirt roads with boats on the roof, camping, hiking, blahblahblah. Stage II really isn't cutting it for me anymore in terms of power, and I'm tired of the dive/squat out of the suspension, the somewhat numb steering feel and the overall looseness of the car, if that makes sense. Thinking part of it is in my head along with OEM bushings getting tired along with the chassis/suspension loosening up after driving hundreds of miles of dirt roads with gear. Reason I'm asking is that pretty much everything on the car engine-wise can stay with an upgrade (unless I go with a header with different UP mount or omgomg rotated turbo setup). There's the small step of say pump, injectors, TMIC and a 18G/Avo 380 for example. Fairly straight forward. However, two-three years from now when I want more, FMIC would probably make sense. Thinking about doing all now including the 'other' stuff (TGV deletes, headers, CAI for example) and enjoy the benefits of it now versus adding it to a depreciating asset two years from now. No aesthetic mods at all. Well actually, there will be one. Like the look of ten spoke wheels, and there's something about the idea of 245/40/17 tires that I can't get out of my head, eventhough they are more expensive, weigh more, and I doubt I'll use their additional contact patch to their full advantage. My one weakness to car vanity I guess, hah.

Sitting here with no kids and no wife, caretaker for family property so low rent, stable job, and a car I don't have to use to get to work, at least for now. Will be finished paying for it shortly, and I'm being tempted... Tempted to throw step-by-step tweaking and modding to the wind, and just go all out, all at once. Ayup, problems will be tougher to solve, but at least everything will only be apart once. And the thought of starting with a fairly stock LGT and by then end, pretty much having my opinion of what a dream LGT is (think RS4 avant but cheaper, lighter and faster) to enjoy for that many more years, is sounding appealing. Folks with highly modded LGTs, how did you go about the process? How did your approach/thoughts change as you got bit more by the modding bug? 11/26/07 Parts List Update is here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1524452#post1524452

Boston people, a copy of my car in Roslindale, told it is parked there all of the time. Off Walter St. Anybody?

Pays to get your recall done early folks! Still, it looks like Subaru might have underestimated the number of cars with fried ECUs...lame. Ayup, lots of folks with multiple bearing failures. had one go last month, going back sometime next week for another one, gonna have them check the remaining two this time around. Grrr... There's a big thread on the issue: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29948

Much more likely it is a clearing of stored values, since they should disconnect the battery before replacing the relay. In time the stutter should go away. Same thing happens (obiviously) if your battery dies.

omgomg two weeks with new relay, they didn';t replace ecu, left AP married. OMGOGMOMGMMOOM DRINK MORE

Spec B, your fans running all the time? If not, no need to bother with removing AP.

Got out of car at 10:26 according to car clock at dealer, back in at 11:09. New relay and three new wipers. No need to unmarry AP/worry about ECM replacement as long as the fans aren't running as soon as the engine is on.

Local dealer is decently fast. Longest time will be waiting for the engine to cool for the "test" Estimated 30 minutes. I'll check out the SI-drive LGTs while I'm up there. Hell, might even bring the DSLR along and snap some photos.