PATS4LIFE

I had my spring replace about 3months ago and now the rattling is back again and worded,I was told if the rattle comes back they will replace the the whole steering rack assembly.

On the rear parking brake,disconnect connector,then you can use needle nose pliers to turn piston clockwise while pushing in,once it stops then you can press it straight in.

I had the Fortin Evo-one remote starter. I’ll probably try Viper remote starter next time. I must have fried the remote start module when I jump started the car.

UPDATE:took stock battery to AUTOZONE had them charge it,well it wasn’t holding charge anymore,so bought me optima battery,hook it up and car started right up and let it idle for 15min then turned car off a few min then re started it but car shuts down again the turned key and no crank.So I was thinking could be my remote start causing it to shutdown so I decided to rip off my remote starter and bam car is all good again no shutting down..I guess remote starter crap out too:/

It shut off while the jumper cables was still on and after that it would not crank at all even when I tried jumping it again, Battery cables are tight and clean. I will be picking up new battery this morning,since my stock battery needs to be replaced anyways.

I hope it’s not my immobilizer unit, But when I insert my key in the ignition the security light goes away so that means immobilizer is reading it right?

Thanks I just check that fuse and it’s good.

I was gonna run errands today and got in car tried to start it but no crank at all, I checked battery voltage and it’s 10.3V(original battery still)so got my other car and jump start it,it started right up but shuts off after a few seconds, then tried to jump start it again but it would not crank at all while jump starting it..I will buy a new battery first thing in the morning,but it’s odd it won’t even crank during jump starting it?can someone please give an idea what else can I check,thanks

There’s a bypass for the start/stop that you can get.

Yes it will,it’s just a bit more difficult install in 3.6 compare to 2.5

For shocks I believe KYB makes them. https://www.octanemotorsports.com/2015-2016-subaru-legacy-bnbs-ksport-kontrol-pro-coilovers-p-179058.html https://www.proimporttuners.com/parts/subaru/legacy-d2-racing-rs-full-coilovers.html https://geckoracingusa.com/collections/subaru/products/g-street-coilover-for-14-up-subaru-legacy-liberty

I have H&R springs but still have stock front end links, But if you decide to go coilovers/shocks make sure you get the one that has a mounting hole for the end links.

Well I think my stock battery crap out already,I jump start it twice yesterday and drove car on frwy for 15min went back home and park it,checked voltage and was 14.3V and after 2 hours went to start the car and no start so I check voltage and it drop to 7.6V & ni there was lights,door,etc left open. So I jump start it again and it started then drove car for 30min the park it at home and waited 2-3hours and again Voltage dropped to 8.3V So I guess time for new battery:/

I recommend getting the damper,makes a difference I have the TS(torque solution)haven’t had any issues at all and if you have the 2.5 very easy install.

Did it made your car sit higher?

Lol,I didn’t see that ,thanks I’ll get the cap also.

Where did you get that radiator cap?

When I took my car in for a oil change @32K,I was ask if I wanted to do the front/rear differential fluid change for $650 but I declined it,so most likely that’s why they charging you for $$$.

That should’ve been totaled,main chassis might damage also,most likely you’ll have issues with drive train.

2017 premium 41K miles Bought it Sept 18,2016

What part of the exhaust?

Nice!!are those 18’s wheels? Seems like H&R springs are lower.