Humble Rumble

Yes to the push pins, but you will have to drill your own holes to line up with the push pin holes. I forgot about that part, I got my grille second hand. If you don't want to deal with that, than shop is worth it, but I still think $200 for drilling 6 holes and pulling a bumper is a bit much.

The install takes less than 20 minutes and can be done with handtools. Any shop charging you $200 for it is absolutely ripping you off. There's two screws that are much easier to access from behind the bumper, just take the bumper off with the grille attached: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/front-bumper-removal-2010-206177.html?t=206177

I'm literally using it *only* to run Btssm and nothing else, I don't need anything above bottom of the barrel, but even bottom of the barrel should be FUNCTIONAL as stated, refurbished or not. That said, I turned it on today, and for whatever reason it's running much closer to what I'd consider normal functionality speeds, unsure what the issue was with it when I was using it yesterday. Was working so poorly that while in Btssm, I could not tell if my finger presses were even registering or not. I would tap the menu and have to wait 5+ seconds for it to open, or it just wouldn't open, complete potshot. Maybe just-after-setup hiccups, who knows, but it seems to be running better today. I haven't been out to hook it up to the car yet to test it while driving, so further judgements will be reserved until then.

At least a little faster than screen movement a full five seconds after I touch it.

Long post incoming. I’m going to preface this post with the fact that I have not touched literally ANYTHING electrical/wiring related on my car or in my life. My experience with wiring in any capacity is literally infant level, absolute zero. Tried my hand at something new last night and very happy that 1. I figured out a simple solution 2. I learned how to do a new thing and 3. It actually worked as I hoped it would (and I didn’t break anything in the process lmao). I’ve had these Ganadors mirrors (before you ask, they’re discontinued and the only place to get them is to get extremely lucky and stumble on a listing for them on Yahoo Japan auctions) sitting around for a while and decided to finally start the process of disassembling them for paint (the carbon hydrodip finish is pretty bad from the previous owner trying to clear over it and doing a very bad job). Disassembly is recommended for painting the housings. I looked up a disassembly guide and the first steps are as follows: 1. Connect the mirrors to the car for power 2. Wind the mirror all the way inward 3. Reach behind the glass and pop the glass off its ball mount 4. Wind the mirror all the way upwards and finally out of the housing So I got to removing my stock mirror, which involves removing the door cards (which I’ve also not done before and now know how to do) to access two of the three mirror bolts and the power plug. Well, in the process of mounting the Ganadors (thankfully they are actually for the right chassis and fit perfect), I discovered that the Ganadors and my factory mirrors have different plugs, so plugging it into power wasn’t possible. It dawned on me that the Ganadors have a different plug for the power to the turn signals. I tried finding wiring diagrams to indicate which wire does what and couldn’t find any. However after examining the the plugs, I noticed that 3 of the Ganador’s 5 wires in the plug were in indentical spots as the 3 wires on the stock mirror. So it stood to reason that since literally the only powered function my stock mirrors have is glass movement, that all three wires are responsible for moving the glass. It also stands to reason that since the Ganadors have the same wires in the same spots, that they are also responsible for glass movement, leaving the extra two wires responsible for signal power (this might seems obvious to someone familiar with electrical stuff but remember that I have literally *zero* experience with absolutely anything related to wiring, so this was an experience of discovery for me). An aside to this is that the Ganadors most likely have the same plug setup as SAP mirrors, so these should be a direct plug in for an SAP Outback. So, since I still need to get the glass out for painting, the thought occurred to me: why don’t I just de-pin the Ganador connector and re-pin just the three movement wires to my original mirrors plug, and leave the signal wires free, just as a temporary solution to get power to move the glass (although I’ll need to wire the signal wires separately anyways to use the signal LEDs, so it may be a permanent solution). So I ordered a pin tool set from Amazon, got it, and started (quite literally) poking around in the plugs. It took a bit to figure out exactly where to put the pin and where to push to release the wire terminals (with this type plug, it’s from the inner hole, underneath the terminal metal, to push it up and over a little plastic nub that holds it in place in its slot), but I finally figured it out and was able to remove all the wires from both mirrors (the Ganador terminals were way easier to remove than the ones in the factory mirror for some reason). I made a diagram of what color wires were where on both mirrors and what color wires from the Ganadors correspond to what color wires from the factory mirrors, re-pinned every, left the signal wires loose, plugged the mirror in and -- SUCCESS!! The mirror motors whirred to life and the adjustment works! I was able to adjust the glass as the guide said and was finally able to remove the glass! Now I can continue removing the rest of the motor and disassembling them fully for painting! Sorry for the long post, but I’m thrilled that my idea worked exactly as I hoped it would, and that I’ve finally dipped my toes ever so slightly into learning about wiring. Video of the motors working: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IgDMtexCCaA]Legacy BM Ganador Super Mirrors - Re-pinned and functioning motors[/ame]

Snagged a refurbished Lenovo Tab M7 Gen 3 (2021) 32GB 7" tablet for $66, also ordered a dash mount and mini-usb to micro-usb cable to run Btssm from my Tactrix OpenPort. Using this as expanded gauges to monitor temps. I figured this was a much easier, quicker, cheaper solution than bunging in a bunch of sensors, buying physical gauges, and bunging in sensors and wiring everything. Tablet delivered already, mount and cable should be here later today so I can test everything. Side note: Andriod f*cking sucks. I've used two Android devices, this tablet being the second, and it is SO slow an unresponsive and laggy. The first was an Android phone I had exactly the same experience with. Android batting a big fat 0 with me so far. If Btssm wasn't Android only, I'd run it on literally anything else.

Direct bolt up replacement of the stock muffler. It also weighs about half as much as the factory muffler too.

There's not really much in the way of power adders for the 2.5i, and there's not really much more power to be pulled from the engine in the first place. The 2.5 N/A engine doesn't have a downpipe of any sort, there's a handful of companies that make headers for both the EJ25 (2010-12) and the FB25 engine (13-14), but all the ones I've seen are UEL headers to gain the Subaru Rumble, but UEL headers are less efficient than the factory headers, so you'll actually lose power with them. The best thing I can recommend doing for a 2.5i is getting a throttle controller like the Pedal Commander, an intake like the Takeda intake (because intake noises are always fun) and a good sounding axleback exhaust. You might gain 10 or so horsepower from these, but they'll change the driving experience and bring enjoyment. Beyond that, the best thing I can say is to focus your money on suspension and wheels, and quality of life/comfort mods. Coilovers and good wheels/tires will do wonders for the look and handling. A 2.5i will never be fast, but they can definitely be made to look good and enjoyable to drive.

Nameless Performance is the best sounding direct fit option out there. I'd recommend the muffled option but a lot of people like the muffler delete. https://shop.namelessperformance.com/axleback-exhaust-2010-2014-legacy-2-5i/

Radiator showed up and folks, I think we're in business. Really happy with the quality, looks excellent and well made. From what I can tell just upon an initial look, the upper stays are in exactly the same same location/orientation, cap and coolant ports are also identically placed, and from Patrick's (ThreeSixMafia) research, 99% of Subaru's have identical dimensions for bottom radiator mounts at 21.25", and 4th and 5th gen are no different. So by all angles I can see currently, this is a perfect fit. I'm also going to get a set of Samco hoses. They do have a kit made for the 15-19 3.6R, and from my own research, I cannot see any differences between the two gen's radiator layout that would make the Samco kit not also fit a 10-14. Won't be swapping this fully in until the weather warms up a bit and till I can get my hands on Samco hoses along with some way to measure temps so I can get a proper before and after comparison.

Once I get going on my cooling upgrades, one of my plans is to cut R33 N1 style vents into the bumper, for both aesthetic and functional purposes. There's vents like these all over ebay, and paint-matched, I think they'll look pretty good. Uh, definitely go rep for this part though if you do, because I just checked the current price for a genuine Nismo set of these, and they're FOURTEEN HUNDRED USD.

Don't actually have a temp monitor of any sort yet lmao. Definitely planning to get something for that sorted, weather it be a multi-meter, gauge, or something elsewise.

If I cannot get the factory fan shroud to fit, I'll likely be going a similar/same route as what GT's have done in the past. Mishimoto fan shroud most likely, and possibly swapped with some SPAL fans.

Bought something pretty special that will be potentially game changing for 3.6R's going forward. You may recall from Patrick's recent post in his Among Us SUS Project, that he found a full aluminum 40mm dual-core H6 radiator for a 3rd gen EZ30 that he was able to make work with his 3.6R. Well, the same company also makes another full aluminum 40mm dual-core H6 radiator meant for a 4th gen H6. And well, I grabbed one up and am going to see how well it fits/works. Patrick did a lot of research on measurements, and found 97% of Subarus share bottom radiator mount widths, so many rads are physically interchangeable, but have other aspects that determine if they actually compatible or not. The hold back for 3.6 radiator upgrades has always been the need of the second upper coolant port. From what we both could find on measurements of factory radiators, 4th gen H6 and 5th gen H6 radiators are dimensionally IDENTICAL. In fact, from my own research, the only physical difference I can find between the OEM rads is that the 5th gen H6 uses an elbow for one of the lower trans cooler ports while 4th gen uses straights on both. From everything I can find, as well as Patrick's 3rd gen rad fit, this 4th gen rad should fit even better. So, aside from just a big improvement in cooling capacity, this radiator also acts as an upgrade for the in-rad trans cooler as well, potentially eliminating the need for an external trans cooler. And if the literal only change for 100% drop-in compatibility for 3.6R is swapping the trans inlet for an elbow, than the company that makes these could instantaneously add another product to their line and open themselves up to a whole new market. The rad is on order and should be here by the end of February. The company that makes the radiator has been extremely easy to communicate with and very rapid on responses. We'll see how everything goes when it gets here. It's also, bluntly, REALLY damn pretty, and I can't wait to see it in the engine bay. 4th gen EZ30 OEM rad vs. 5th gen EZ36 OEM rad. Only difference I can see is the trans cooler elbow.

Gialla bumper, being a JDM fitment piece, will require a full front end swap in order to fit. The bumper comes with its own attached grille already, but beyond that, you'd need a JDM hood, JDM fenders, JDM bumper beam, and JDM headlight brackets in order to make everything work. As cool as it is, I'd HEAVILY recommend against it due to how high shipping costs are worldwide right now. You can find full front clips on ebay from time to time from for $1500-$2k, of questionable quality, but the biggest hurdle is the shipping of the Gialla bumper itself. The bumper itself, without any mesh or paint, is $600, but to shipping charge to the US is currently sitting around $2000. If you've got the guap burning a hole in your pocket, go for it, but know that it's not as simple as hood/grille/bumper, and even if it was, shipping costs would be prohibitively expensive.

It does, but connecting it requires tapping into wiring, which I am not experienced with, so I just mounted them for now. The brake lights were plug and play.

Installed the processed LED taillights that I picked up from yahoo.jp auctions. They look great, but are going to require some work. The brake lights are plug and play, and worked as they should with just a simple swap. The trunk lights require some tapping, so for now I just disconnected those and will do them in the future. These are LED boards, not bulb or strips, and unfortunately, as will most LED brakelights, the 10-12's don't like these, and I get flashing brake errors after about 10 or so minutes of driving persistently, common with LED brake lights. The 13-14 do not have this issue, the 10-12 do. So to run these, I will need to run inline resistors. I am not able to re-use my VLEDs resistors as-is with the way these are currently setup. The housings look fantastic, and the reverse and turn signals are perfectly and amply bright, but the brake light (and likely trunk light) output leaves something to be desired. They are roughly OEM brightness, definitely dimmer than the VLED. I am going to look into upgrading the boards or removing the boards and making the housings able to run bulbs (which would be great because I could run my VLEDs). The pattern is on the housing itself, so this is a possible option to retain the style. The turn signals are also apparently sequential capable with a module, so I may explore that later this year too. I have uninstalled them for the time just to be able to drive without errors, and will come back to this project later in the year. Video of lights installed: Video from the maker of them showing the sequential capability:

Took a little bit of time to set out all of the project parts I've accumulated in the six months my car was down. Pretty solid spread, got some really neat stuff, going to be a pretty significant transformation for the car. Here is what I have gathered: -Inferno Fab EZ36 full catted headers -Kakimoto BIC336 Intake Chamber -Fortune Auto 500 Coilovers with Swift Springs, 10k/9k, 2k overvalved “Dewey valved” -Carbon Ganador LED Super Mirrors with Prova Convex Blue Glass -LED Processed Tail Lights Custom from Yahoo Japan auctions -Pleasure Racing Service EZ36 LWCP Coilovers will most likely wait till the spring, because there’s no point in getting those salty and shitty straight out of the box. PRS lightweight crank pulley may also just become a shelf trophy, as there’s apparently a fluidampr solution in the works for EZ36, so we'll see how the develops. The tails will be the first thing one, followed by the Intake and Headers, but I'm planning to several dyno sessions to test various combinations. What I want to test is: -Current form for a baseline -Kakimoto Intake, stock headers -Inferno fab headers, stock intake -Inferno fab headers + Kakimoto intake The dyno days will also give me a chance to have XRT fully refine my tune on a dyno rather than just road tuning, so hoping to schedule that soon after my Xmas bonus arrives. I also recently retrieved what will be this year's winter setup for my 3.6R: Tribeca wheels, 18x8 +55. Going to be picking up a another set of General Altimax Arctic 12s in 225/45/18. They are 5x114.3, so I will have to run adatpers, and the extra 25mm will give me virtually exactly the same fitment as the setup I ran last year, which was 215/55/17 on my stock 17x7.5 +48 with 25mm spacers. That old setup is on my 3rd gen now, sans spacers. Should look pretty good.

Bought a 3rd gen in June.

Mine was one week short of 6 months. I was about ready to expire lol.

To the point that I just drove to my favorite parking garage overlook spot and just sat there for a couple hours.

I. DROVE. IT. promptly to a 7-11 to participate in the recent photo trend lol. Engine is healthy and alive. Just enjoying being back with it again finally.

Found this on their site, is this who you called?

Here, bit of a quick and dirty. Did my best to match the STI gold. Here's a touch lighter gold as well. I quite like how this one looks with your color.

I got you, gimme a sec.