Humble Rumble

Unless you're dead set on having the OEM spoiler with a functional brakelight, I'd recommend dremmeling off the embedded screws and and mounting with 3M body adhesive instead of drilling any holes. Will keep your trunk clean if you ever feel like removing it in the future, and be easier to mount and dismount. Did that with mine and it held more than strong enough for the spoiler to be used as a lift point for the trunk. That said, if you want functioning brake light, yeah, go with the template. And yeah, the factory spoiler is a really good addition if your car has had a naked trunk for most of its life.

Please document all fitment details of that S-Craft list for the future!

25mm on the GT wheels is typically a really good fit. Totals out to +30 offset since the GT wheels are +55. I run 25mm spacers on my 3.6R stock wheels for winter, which are +48, so that equals out to +23 offset, and that's on 215/55/17, so bigger than stock size. It fits pretty flush but my fenders are also pretty aggressively rolled and pulled and that size leaves me some room still, so I can't say how anything bigger than 25mm might fit on your car. That said, 25mm(1in) spacers in 5x100 56.1mm hub bore are very common to find, while 30mm or 35mm are more difficult to find in 5x100 56.1mm. You also run into spacers larger than 25mm (1 in) being sized in inches rather than mm, which can make the conversion a bit hard to land right on the mm with offset. tl;dr give 25mm a try. If that doesn't cut it for what you want, roll your fenders, and find 35mm. I know first hand ichiba makes 35mm in 5x100 56.1mm hub. Here's my winter fitment just for visual reference. 17x7.5 +48 on 215/55/17, 25mm spacers all around. https://www.instagram.com/p/CH65K9qJxVy/

It is on the label in the passenger door frame as apexi mentioned.

Hopefully this will be helpful.MSA5T1009A297624.pdf

Finally got around to installing my Wangan SPL BE5 Legacy spoiler. Had a friend help me with the process, and despite having to redo one hole three times (we both swore the spoiler was pulling some voodoo with the way it would line up before drilling, then be way off after ), it came out excellent and I'm absolutely in love with the look. Totally changes the profile of the car, gives it exactly the 2000s tuner vibe I want. The spoiler is also super light (only about 5 lbs) so it doesn't impede trunk operation in anyway and is still super easy to open. As someone on the 5th gen FB group said, "it's subtle, but not too subtle". It's been a long process to decide on and finally install a spoiler for me, I feel like it's the final touch that should be put on a car cosmetically, but I am over the moon with how well this came out. Also for anyone curious, the idea to combine a raised wing with a carbon lip was an idea I had inspired by the Mine's R34 Skyline (which ironically I used to main back when I played Initial D in arcades). The SYMS carbon lip sits further back on the trunk than any other design out there, and is almost entirely on the back surface of the trunk, leaving all but a few millimeters of the deck lid open for wing mounting. If I had never happened across the SYMS lip on YAJ randomly, I'd probably be posting about the Blitzen right now. And as for the Blitzen, yes, I still have it, and yes, I still plan to mount it. My plan for that is to find a second trunk for it and to badge up that trunk with the Blitzen badges, to swap out whenever I feel the desire.

After a failed attempt of my own last summer (to the point that I needed to re-order a piece), I had a professional vinyl shop install my yellow Lamin-x headlight covers. Even the vinyl guy commented how difficult the Lamin-x was to work with on our lights, made me feel a bit better about my failed attempt. Really enjoying the look of the yellow on silver. Got a couple things back from paint as well, one of which being the new Bayson R lip I've had stashed away for the last year. Always wanted to do a body color Bayson lip, and I've gotta say, I'm very happy with the outcome. Also nice to have a lip that's in one piece again, my old lip got yanked off back in thanks to a careless snowplow back in the winter of 2018, and has since been slowly loosing pieces until I finally trimmed off the middle so it looked somewhat even. Also, note to self: NEVER ATTACH A LIP WITH BOLTS AND NUTS. I did this when I re-attached the lip in 2018, and despite using "corrosion resistant" hardware, every single one of them had to be dremelled off, making this swap take way longer than it should have. And finally, the addition of strategically placed Motul stickers in tandem with the yellow lights to lightly cosplay the GT300 car. The GT300 car's bumper is pretty radically different shape than the road car, so I kind of had to compromise on placement lol. I'm comfortable with these because I actually run Motul in my car, hopefully someday I get Advan wheels so I can run that sticker too.

Undertook a very large project over the weekend that has been long overdue and even longer needed: -Upgrade front top hats to STI Group N (front passenger top hat has been torn since last summer, so this is not only an upgrade but a needed repair) -Upgrade rear top hats to reinforced 14-18 Forester top hats -Super Pro Roll Center Adjustment Kit -SPC Rear Toe Arms (factory toe arms were seized) Firstly, the top hats. My passenger front tap hat has been torn around the bearing since roughly late summer/early fall. I'm 99% positive it happened during my last autox from last year, which took place in a parking lot. I remember a specific right-to-left harsh transfer on one of my later runs that resulted in a very noticeable *POP* from the front right. And since that point, and gradually more ever since, I've had a very obnoxious creaking, binding noise from the suspension whenever I turned the wheel. It wasn't until I got the top hat off during this repair that I realized how bad it was, and am thankful I made it all the way through winter (with copious drifting no less!) without an issue. Video links below show my steering sound before replacement, the strut off the car and the extent of the top hat damage, and the steering sound (lack thereof) after replacement. Smooth like butter again. And the reinforced Forester top hats for the rear, just because why not if I'm doing the front, nothing wrong with some extra sturdiness back there. Onto the rear toe arms, doing these because it was discovered during my last alignment that my factory toe arms were seized and could no longer be adjusted. The SPC ones offer a much easier adjustment method, and are beefier than the factory ones as well. These were a MAJOR pain in the but to remove and resulted in having to cut off both factory arms with a sawzall. And lastly, the long, LONG overdue Roll Center Kit. I had tried to have my shop install the Whiteline Roll Center kit previously when I switched from Eibach to H&R Springs, and for some odd reason, they said they could not get the ball joints to seat properly. I don't know specifically why, especially because I've seen multiple other 5th gens run it, but I guess there is some variance in the size of the base of the bolt joints between the Super Pro kit and the Whiteline kit that would allow the Super Pro kit to seat properly. Either way, it was my first ever time doing tie rods and ball joints, and HONESTLY, despite all the horror stories I've heard about Subaru ball joints, this was actually the easiest and quickest part of the whole job. Of course, this was due in part to having the proper tools: a pickle fork, and the Astro 78620 Subaru Ball Joint Puller tool. I cannot recommend this tool enough. It turned removing the ball joints from what I've always heard to be a nightmare, to LITERALLY a 3-second task. And for $25, you literally cannot go wrong with this. Apparently a few other companies like Snap-On make a similar tool, but the Snap-on one is $150. Just get the Astro one. Included a video of my removing one of the ball joints, and an Amazon link for it. https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-78620-Subaru/dp/B01JBJFK3C/ And with that, off the alignment. My buddy set the left rear toe by eye and I set the right rear toe by eye and we both landed close but mine landed DEAD one. Pleased with myself. And with that, this feels weird to say, but I think my suspension is fully and finally... DONE? Until I finally go coilovers, I've done literally just about everything available for the suspension on this car, and let me tell you: It. Feels. INCREDIBLE. The car feels better than it's ever felt before, and feels like how it always should have. The amount of confidence I have in the corners is absurd now, it stays flat, bites in hard, and is extremely responsive. The ball joints/tie rods also finally solved my bump steer and virtually eliminated my highway wheel shake (only happened on one local highway with a very shoddy, rushed surface). I cannot wait to get this thing out on track with some sticky tires next month. Here's my final suspension list for anyone interested, buy links can be found in my build thread linked in my signature, or you can google any of the part numbers. -Koni Sport Yellow Front Struts (8610-1453S) -Koni Sport Yellow Rear Struts (8010-1055) -H&R Lowering Coil Springs for 3.6R (54427-2) -KYB Front Strut Housings (339222 & 339223) -STI Group N Front Strut Mounts (B0310FE000) -SG Forester Reinforced Rear Strut Mounts (20370SG000) -JDM Legacy tS Aluminum Front Lower Control Arms (ST20202EZ000 & ST20202EZ010 ) -SuperPro Front LCA Standard Alignment Bushings (SPF4863K) -Super Pro Front LCA Front Inner Bushings (SPF3091K) -Super Pro Front Roll Center Adjustment Kit (TRC0002) -Whiteline Adjustable Rear LCAs (KTA216A) -SPC Performance Adjustable Rear Toe Arm (67655) -2013 Legacy 3.6R 26mm Front Sway Bar (20401AJ08A) -CKE SSP 26mm 75D Deep Purple FSB Bushings -Whiteline 22mm Rear Sway Bar (BSR49XZ) -Whiteline Sway Bar Lateral Locks (KLL116) -Kartboy Front Endlinks (KB-017-08COMBO) --Kartboy 1/2" Front Endlink Spacers (KB-017WLS) --M10x1.5 80mm Bolts -Kartboy Rear Endlinks (KB-017-08COMBO) -Cusco Front Strut Tower Bar (687 540 A) -Cusco Power Brace Front Member (687 492 FM) -Cusco Power Brace Rear Member (687 492 RM) -Cusco Power Brace Rear Side Member (687 492 RS -Cusco Rear Sway Bar Braces for VA STI (6A1 492 RL)

The DRL and the Hi-Beam are one in the same bulb, so with a halogen bulb installed, they run at reduced brightness, but with an LED bulb installed, they run at full brightness, so it's essentially just the high-beam bulb at full blast and nothing else on. I personally grabbed up the VLEDs Micro Limited in the 3000K Ion Yellow color. The yellow color helps reduce the blinding brightness of a 5000k or 6000k at full blast. I really love the look of the yellow lights (I also have my fog lights yellow, so when I flash my bright (which turns off the fogs temporarily) I can do a fun yellow flash effect that mildly mimics an emergency vehicle lol, which I've NEEEEVER abused on a two-lane highway when two semi trucks are pacing each other ).

I would highly recommend the VLEDs Micro Limited. I have the very first generation of the Micro's in my low-beams and they've held up outstandingly for 3+ years, and the newer ones have gotten even better. They obviously a bit more than halogen, but you get what you pay for in quality, and the install is far simpler than HIDs. Additionally, VLEDs runs frequent sales, and also have an always active 10% coupon code SUBARU10 to save a bit more. If you are ok spending a bit more and want massive light output, the Micro Extremes are insane and an additional option, but the Limiteds are a lot more budget friendly. https://www.vleds.com/shop-bulb-numbers/h7/micro-limited-h7.html Here's a video of the throw and output on my Micros. You can see they're illuminating the stop sign and cars hundreds of feet off in the distance. Couldn't recommend them more.

Check these few posts I made regarding VLEDs brake lights and their VLR plug-n-play resistor system. Easiest thing in the world to install, no wiring needed, and solved all of the LED brake light errors I had and has been running perfectly ever since. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5775085&postcount=6 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5775235&postcount=13 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5778741&postcount=26

Hard pass on anything Godspeed makes unless you feel like replacing the same parts again less than 12 months later. SPC will last.

So, I'm dealing with frozen rear toe arms as well. Rather than replacing with OE/OE style like Moog, I'd recommend going with the SPC toe arms (67655). They're beefier than OEM and don't rely on an eccentric for toe adjustment, instead using a double locking nut setup that allows for much easier adjustment. Literally in the middle of this project left over from yesterday, and take it from me, you'll probably have to cut your old toe arms out, mine were seized into the sub-frame. I'd also look into SPC rear lower control arms to add camber adjustment to the back end as well. Both parts will retain OEM looks as well since they're all black. Toe arms (need 2): https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-67655-Adjustable-Rear/dp/B00I5IXFZQ LCAs (need 2): https://www.amazon.com/SPC-Performance-67660-Adjustable-Camber/dp/B00DJBPN8G

God I can't wait to see that finished. I need someone to buy my Gialla lip so I can go with what I've settled on myself.

The lights are just about the only thing that's the same shape between USDM and JDM. Virtually everything else is different, even down to the light brackets, but the lights themselves are physically interchangeable. I do believe USDM and JDM have different plugs though. Only other part I know that's interchangeable weirdly is the post-facelift foglight bezels. The JDM and USDM post-facelift front ends are much more similar than pre-facelift, so much so that the OEM option LED fog bezels for facelift can fit USDM with no modification.

Neither the lens nor the overall shape of the housing is different for any world market. The differences are in the motorized adjusting/factory HID/lack of side marker in the non-USDM lights. The lens' are identical for all 5th gens.

They’re honestly great, testa just has higher standards of brightness than most. I’ve run them myself for a few years and they’re excellent, especially for the price. I still don’t think he had his adjusted right.

Little detail that I've been wanting to do for a long, long time now: H6 fender badges. These are OEM badges from JDM H6 4th gens, and I think they make a lovely accent on a 5th gen. I was originally going to go with the Piston 6 badge from 3rd gen GT30/RS30's, but I'm glad I went with these ones instead. I love them.

I still think you didn't have them adjusted right.

That is what I've heard from other buyer's as well, and the reviews on his page hold up to that too: always amazing build quality and fitment, often long wait times. I've been patient and will continue to be, I just hope they get here before racing seasons starts so I can proceed with my plan of embarrassing STIs on track.

I'm the fifth gen owner in question, figured I'd chime in a bit. This system offering from Inferno is exciting because it makes significantly more of the exhaust system plug-and-play and immediately able to be bolted up, and requires far less of the system be fabricated than with the Raptor/OBX headers, essentially only the mid-pipe. I ordered my gen 5 set from Inferno in December and am unfortunately still waiting for shipment/delivery, but should note that Inferno is a small manufacturer and these sets are made-to-order, not stocked items, and the owner has communicated some personal life strife in the past few months, so I'm being patient. Hoping to have my set in April as well, will update further once there's any more developments. If you're looking for power numbers, my 5th gen dyno'd at 228.49 whp with only Nameless 5" muffler, AEM filter, and HKS intake funnel, and a tune from XRT. This equates to about 286 crank horsepower, or roughly +30hp from stock. Once I receive my header set, I will have my local Subaru shop do both a before and after install/re-tune dyno for comparison. If you're interested in my build thread, link can be found in my signature.

To my knowledge, this will be the second set in the states, the first being Stephen’s (formerly Kevin’s), and mine is the only carbon set. Super excited for them, especially the easier install lol.

Really coming up in the way of cool parts this year. Just landed a set of carbon Ganador Aero Super Mirrors with LED blinker. There is less than 5 sets of sets of Ganadors in circulation for 5th gen Legacy, and the entire line of Ganador Super Mirrors have been discontinued, so I'm over the moon to have landed a set. And before anyone says anything, yes I'm aware Ganadors have bad visibility, but recently Prova started producing Ganador-specific convex mirror glass similar to what they make for other Subarus, which will drastically increase the visibility of these. Also, these just scream to the 00's tuner sensibilities that I've tried to keep up with modifying my car. One extra point is that they will make the installation simpler compared to the JDM mirrors, as only the blinker will need to be wired and auto-fold/heating/etc isn't something I need to worry about.

It depends specifically on all the specifications of your tire and wheel combinations, not just the sidewall alone, but the site that Scooby Fan shared is a great way to get a close idea to how the size will affect your speed reading. For what it's worth, USDM 5th gen speedometers read about 3% faster than GPS actual speed from the factory. This is not at all uncommon in modern passenger cars, and is a bit of an extra safety buffer against drivers to more or less make them drive slower than they think they are, but imperceptibly so. For example, using the 3.6R stock wheel/tire size of 225/50/17 on 17x7.5, when I up sized to a 245/40/19 on 19x8.5, it changed my wheel-to-speedometer relationship much, much closer to GPS actual speed, with a variance closer to about 0.2% rather than 3%. That is about a 1mph per 30mph DECREASE on the speedometer readout compared to stock size, which translates to roughly 1mph per 30 mph INCREASE in actual travel speed compared to speedometer readout. In other words, on stock size, with the speedometer reading 60mph, I may have only been going 58mph. On the 245/40/19 tire, 60mph on the speed would be much closer to actual 60mph. Hope that made sense and wasn't too confusing.

20X9 is a cool look on our cars. I wish it left about +5 more available tire than it does, and that lighter 20" options existed, but if it's a car that's never seeing track time, I do enjoy seeing 20s on our cars from time to time.