Humble Rumble

Have been running their Micro Limiteds in my high beams for about 2 years now. Yes, the DRL runs at full power, but I opted for their 3000K Ion Yellow ones so that it's not as obnoxious as 6000K in the daytime. They function awesome and the color is brilliant. I've also had my lights wrapped Lamin-X yellow this year as well, so the color is even more intense yellow but also a tad reduced brightness from prior as well. Still bright enough to change the color of nearby road signs to a yellowish hue in daytime, but also not blinding like an un-wrapped 6000K highbeam would be in the daylight. Fantastic product, doubly soo if they've finally sorted proper DRL function. 2019: 2021:

Use VLEDs.com and put your car into the website selection. Even if you don't buy from them, it's a useful tool to learn the bulb type for each bulb location.

Everything VLEDs makes is top level. I'm hoping they have an option to add this module to people that already have their bulbs rather than having to buy whole new bulbs. I'm almost certain they did, just have to do a little digging.

Since prices for them increase today due to material shortages and supply chain issues, on Friday, I pounced on a set of Fortune 500 coilovers for my 5th gen. Got the Swift Spring upgrade, "Dewey-valved" (local suspension guru custom order setting), and 10k/9k spring rates. I know that seems awful aggressive, but with me having a daily now, my 5th gen can afford to go a little further into track slut territory, and in Dewey's exact words, "I want this bitch to rotate". Also getting them shipped to a friend in Wisconsin to avoid some tax, so ended up right at $1499 for the set. As of today July 12th, Fortune is increasing their prices by $300, and I've been planning on coilovers for a long time, so I had to get in before the increase. Also recently landed something kind of monumental: a set of full LED sedan tails from yahoo.jp auctions. Various designs of LED tails for sedans have finally started popping up on the auctions, and I bid on this set not-expecting to win it and landed it shockingly inexpensively, far FAR below the typical domestic quotes of around $1000-$1500 for something similar made in the states. This design wasn't my first choice, but it was in my top 3, so I'm still very happy with them for the price I paid.

Really curious where you were able to find one of these currently.

The 2.0 DIT is the most powerful factory Legacy ever produced, at 296hp/296tq. The GT is essentially the same as the GT we get here, with slightly higher compression than USDM resulting in the 280hp compared to USDM 265hp. Even being in Canada, I don't believe that any 5th gens would be eligible for import until 2024 at the earliest (for the 2009 models), which would lock away the DIT until 2027 at least. Unsure how you'd get around that. Also, just a note, the 13-14 does NOT have a USDM front end. It's still entirely JDM, thought visually the JDM post facelift and USDM post facelift are much more visually similar than pre-facelift is. Not the same though.

Cusco makes trailing arms that specifically fit the 5th gen. Just google part # 692 474 T, buy from any site that has stock. Even if said site doesn't confirm fitment for the Legacy (for instance, RallySportDirect does not list the Legacy as compatible) Cusco themselves does. Here's the catalog sheet for 5th gen compatible parts. https://www.cusco.co.jp/en/pdf/Legacy%20BR%20BM%20New%20Products%20Letter.pdf

There is nothing available like that for 5th Legacys currently, that would have to be 100% custom fabricated.

Ordered several months ago, finally arrived. Been pining after this product for 4+ years, beyond over the moon to finally own it. Kakimoto Intake Chamber BIC336 for 3.6R. First one in the US to my knowledge, one of the only 3.6R specific power mods out there from a Japanese tuning company. I am legitimately so excited about this thing that I took a picture of literally every step of unboxing it, you're all coming along for the ride with me lmao. This is also the first really big ticket item that I've bought brand new from a Japanese tuning company. They really are artist when it comes to packaging. Everything about the packing and presentation is immaculate, I swear to god I'm saving every single piece of packaging from this lmao. Even to the point that the instruction packet was taped in such away that when you opened the box flap, it pulled up like a pop-up book. Can't wait to get this installed.

Similar thoughts. Definitely one of the better executions of quad tips I've seen on a 5th gen, but yeah, rest of the car needs to match the aggressive look. But also, you said the tips are still a work in progress, and I'm sure the rest of the car is the same story. Keep up the good work!

^You did good with those. As long as you didn't pay Subaru $650 PER LIGHT for the "Special Appearance" lights, you're good. Those are essentially what I run, and as Kevin said, 100% identical to the lights that come on every 13-14 Legacy.

That lip, as subtle as it is, completely transforms the front end of the USDM model, especially if you color match it. SAP/Facelift headlights and yellow fogs are make your car look completely brand new again, I have essentially all the same stuff on my front end. You'll be very happy with it, and none of those things are difficult to install.

Just reviving this a bit to inform that my 5th gen set finally arrived. It was a long wait but MAN they are immaculate. Looks to be a perfect bolt up for the factory mid-pipe. Workmanship is spectacular, and full v-band connectors is a really nice touch.

After a *VERY* long wait (one week short of 5 months) my Inferno Fab 3.6R Full Headers have finally arrived, and I must say, any and all annoyance/frustration I've had with the length of time for delivery, or the occasional difficulty in getting ahold of Inferno for updates went fully out the window when I laid eyes and hands on these things. The workmanship is immaculate, full V-band connectors, high-flow cats included already. Should be good to just bolt straight up, re-tune, and go. https://infernofab.com/01-04-subaru-legacy-3-0-header-1.html (don't let the URL fool you, that is a link to the 10-14 3.6R headers. I think he just cloned the page from his 3rd gen 3.0 header listing and never changed the URL, hence the -1.html) This setup is $1297, with $55 flat shipping. I took advantage of Inferno's 15% off Black Friday sale (to give you an idea of how long ago I purchased them) and paid $1157.45 shipped. Considering the amount of fab work, effort, and expense this setup saves compared to going with Raptors and having to source, purchase, and fab up the cats and connectors and such, even at full price this is a fantastic option for the 3.6R. The long wait times are the only drawback as Steven with Inferno fab does headers as a side-gig and does have a full time job. However, that's exactly congruent with all his reviews on his Facebook page as well: excellent fitment, spectacular workmanship, and long wait times. I'm definitely going to be arranging for a dyno test before and after installation so that I can get a proper comparison.

I know, that last one is hilarious hahaha. It's so good I made it my banner pic on Facebook. The execution is on point.

Track day this past weekend. Still sorting out loads of pictures from various sources, but here's some of my favorites so far. Friend of mine brought a genuine old school Polaroid to the event, so I got this absolute keepsake out of it, dropping with 80s/90s feels. And the highlight of my day, I managed to get the track officials to let me stage "The Shot", being the barge that I am and getting "stuck" at the end of the pits. And, with all the shenanigans and boat jokes, some truly hilarious edits came out of the mix. The kiddie pool is hilarious, but the last one is my favorite because of the quality of execution lmao. Had such a fun time.

Done a handful of things to my Legacy recently, some serious, and some absolutely not serious. Firstly, the serious stuff, I swapped out my 4-year old KNS 4K rotors for some DBA T2 Slotted rotors. The KNS rotors held up well and stomached 80k miles of daily driving, 4 autox events, and 2 track days, so I think I got my money's worth. However, they were starting to get pretty badly grooved, flaking rust off, and starting to show symptoms of warping, so it was time for a change. I've been wanting slotted rotors for a while too, and the full set of T2's was only about $60 more than a replacement set of 4k's. Also some fresh RBF600, and switching to my serious track pads, Carbotech XP10 fronts and XP8 rears, for my track day this weekend, but waiting till last minute because theyre obnoxious to drive on the street with. In addition to my brake refresh, also picked up some serious grippy bois for my track day as well: Falken Azensis 615K+ in 245/40/18. I opted for 245/40 since the 615's don't come in the 255/40 I was running, and 245/40 is closer to that spec than the next closest option of 265/35, so I went with that. 245/40 was also cheaper, and I got them at a ridiculously dumb good price from a local vendor: $565 for the set. Literally can't get better than that for a serious street track tire. Super excited to feel the difference, it's my first time with a 200 treadwear tire (first time with anything more aggressive than 500 tbh). I haven't rung them out yet but I can already feel a huge difference on some of the more fun corners on my commute. Should be in for a serious showing out for my track day. And now, for the not so serious: I had an idea to adorn my car (boat) in the fashion of the barge that recently got stuck in the Suez Canal, with a giant EVERGREEN die-cut plastered across both doors lmao. Call it a "livery" for my track day. When they call you a boat, become a barge. I'm having a hell of a lot of fun with the getting stuck gags, and the memes seem to have been well received on Facebook. My ultimate goal is to park blocking the exit to the pits with a row of cars behind me and have one of the photographers get a drone picture lmao. Legit makes me laugh every time I come out to my car. I'm having a lot of fun with this.

Cross referencing original part numbers between a 2012 Legacy, a 2017 Legacy, and a 2019 Legacy. I'm fairly certain they will. The way that Subaru part numbers are laid out, it's typically the first 5 digits delineate the specific part, the two letters signify the chassis used for, and the last three digits signify the revision within the part. If they first 5 digits are identical, it's typically exactly the same part, just slatted for factory use in certain chassis. They might not be EXACTLY 1000% identical, but having the first 5 digits match typically signifies cross compatibility. In the case of top hats, the part number across all the years I mentioned share the first 5 digits, so I would wager that they are all interchangeable. Front Top Hats 2012 - 20320AJ00A/20320AJ00B 2017 - 20320AL00A 2019 - 20320AL00A Rear Top Hats 2012 - 20370YC000/20370YC001/20370YC02 2017 - 20370AL00A 2019 - 20370AL10A Now, deciphering Subaru part numbers is not an exact science for an outsider, but if you take a look, you notice that the top front hats all share the same 5-digit prefix, and went unchanged between 17 and 19. The would indicate to me it's highly likely that the STI top hats that fit the 2012 would also fit 17 & 19 and so on. As for the rears, we see that there appears to be a revision between 17 & 19, but all three still share the same 5-digit prefix, which also matches the 5-digit prefix on the Forester top hats that fit onto my 2012, so I'd wager those would fit either 6th gen as well. One and only point, I had to drill out the center opening of the Forester top hats just a little bit larger to fit the Konis, but the bolt pattern into the car was identical.

I can elucidate on that. It's entirely possible the noise he's describing may be made worse by the KYB top hats, if not entirely caused by it, especially after 5 years. The KYB top hats are perfectly adequate for daily driving, but they are only OEM-equivalent, if not slightly less quality, and the rubber wears out pretty quickly depending on your climate and car storage. My initial set up was Konis/KYB Housings/KYB top hats/Eibach Springs, later switched to H&R Springs. This only lasted 2.5 years for me, and I autox/track my car. My passenger front KYB top hat actually separated the bearing from the rubber, giving me both clunky, and minor side-to-side movement. I'll link my post from the What Did You Do thread regarding top hats below. Essentially, the KYB struts are perfectly fine to use, and after 3 years, mine are not exhibiting the rattling within the housing that Adam is describing. However, skip their top hats, and go with the beefier STI Group N front top hats, and reinforced Forester rear top hats, I'll link part numbers below. I recently swapped mine, and lordy the difference is night and day. Should have just done these from the beginning. Part #'s -STI Group N Front Strut Mounts (B0310FE000) -SG Forester Reinforced Rear Strut Mounts (20370SG000)

Attended a local car show this weekend, first big one of the season. As it sat.

Was planning on picking up a set of Falken 615k+ in 245/40/18 for my track day in two weeks, waited too long and they went on a nationwide back order. Talked to the guy that was gonna get the tires for me and he recommended Hankook RS4s. They were $800 for the set, and that was more than I wanted to spend, but I really wanted some serious tires for my first track day in two years. Well, was planning on sending him the money after my lunch break today, and halfway through my lunch, I get a text from him "Well, your procrastination paid off. 6x 615s just came in stock in DC". $565 for the set. Saved me $235 which will make this track day WAY more viable. Stoked.

Yes, they're interchangeable. The majority of people that have followed this Koni setup have purchased KYB front struts just to cut them up and insert the Konis.

Updated some current pictures, and updated master parts list. I still have a lot of detail posts to make since last year, just had minimal free time to sit down and knock it out.

Haven't posted in this thread for a while. A lot of visual updates since my last post in here.

Make sure to get 3M VHB specifically, and I can promise it will hold as long as you clean and prep the surface properly. VHB is even stronger than normal 3M. Here's my post from mounting it, scroll through the pictures to see how I did the tape on it. https://www.instagram.com/p/BytTEQmgBWH/