jaylew

bump! I can re-assemble the one mirror housing no problem at no additional cost!

for the driver side the whole top of the dash needs to come out. That means, glove box out, under the steering wheel out, center trim around the head unit out. It is honestly not difficult, just time consuming. And if you already have the dash out, might as well replace the other actuators while you are there because that is when they are the easiest to get to

damn Febreze Mee... you got me feeling so motivated!!!

Oh boy...there is a wagon fest? I'd definitely not like that. Maybe next year i'll fly out to see it...or drive. Speaking of driving, my steering rack rebuild is not looking like it is all that. I am leaking from the driver side boot . Time to try re-rebuilding it and figure out where i went wrong. Only got 1500 miles. That is what i get for boasting about 'successfully' rebuilding it

So...maybe not so impressive. It is leaking after 1500 miles from the driver side boot. No idea if it is from the pinion valving or the driver rack seal but ATF is all up in the gear box housing. I am hoping for the first as that is easier to fix. So at the moment this will serve as a good look into the inner workings of the rack until I can call it truly fixed with more than 1500 miles of dry driving. I am willing to give it another shot now that I know what I am getting into before I call it a day an go STI upgraded rack.

Recently cleared out stuff and figured these might...might be useful to someone. I have a set of mirrors off my car. I upgraded to facelift style. The blinker fluid is low on the one that is taken apart. Still works but might need a reseal (if that is possible). Motors all still work as do the heating elements. I am hoping for local pick up first. IDK best offer takes them. I also have K&N engine intake filter, and what appears to be a reusable cabin air filter. Again best offer takes them or one of them. Last some (2x) working rear seat belts for a wagon (IDK if it works on sedans)

Already been said, its been quoted a lot. As a wagon sympathizer, this hurts to read. Find a 4 speed auto with solid shell to swap everything over to. The 4 speed has the same trani mounting points as manual. Save the heart! raise a new wagon!

Drove her for another road trip this past weekend. Love it so much!

the OE hardlines are actually quite good. I did replace the portion to the turbo but left the hardline that mounts to the head and runs to the right avcs. I used this adapter https://www.ebay.com/itm/184261197517 to go from the subaru hardline to a -4AN. Then a braided line from this fitting to a banjo bolt and reused the OE restrictor banjo bolt on the turbo Personally replacing the entire hardline isn't worth the money, time or effort. I only replaced the short jump from the hardline to the turbo because i accidentally ruined my original turbo hardline. The OE hardlines do not need replacing unless actually broken (which is rare). Just replace or remove the filter in the banjo bolt pre turbo and right avcs

might i recommend more sound deadening in the doors. I added a dense foam layer to the interior side of the vapor barrier. I highly recommend. Otherwise looking great!

I can confirm that it works. I put 72131AG27A in my '05 about 3 weeks ago. Temp changes as expected and best of all...quietly The 2 actuators that are "easy" to get to are the passenger temp and the mode actuator. The outside air/ inside air and driver temp require dash out. Taking the dash out honestly isn't hard

Finally got to log in after like too long...i was going through withdraw. In other news i need to replace my old valve cover breather lines. The old ones are cracked and all the blow by oil seeps out all over my new undertray and cleaned motor. Didn't take long

40hr road trip for cheap Spec B parts....im on my way, boarders are open

I replaced the bezel around the cubby because the old one broke at the point where the one of the coarse screws hold the cubby...old plastic. In a quick decision I over paid for a brand new one since all the bezels in the junk yard are beat up and broken too. I also upgraded my magnetic phone mount to account for how heavy new phones are Last I got a custom sunshade because nothing on amazon fits the tapper of our windshields. Its by covercraft and i highly recommend

Might I point both of you to the second link in my signature....shameless plug

I went to a dealership recently to get inspection and alignment. The tech was stoked to see the wgaon roll in for how clean it is (yes I am patting myself on the back)

Just finished up putting around 600 miles on the new clutch. It is feeling better with every use as it seats into the flywheel. The DIY rebuilt steering rack is as dry as if it were brand new and working great.

I feel like it depends on the part but I have had good success with this place subarupartsdeal.com i also have had good luck recently with a local dealership for local pick up, metrowest subaru. Not the cheapest pricing but saving $12 on shipping makes it 6 of 1, half dozen of the other plus it is usually over night ready.

I'll give that a try. Clean it...why didn't i think of that haha

lol its getting pretty close to that. It is in the plans to refresh the engine. A lot of the work I just did to the current engine easily transfers over to a new short block. I don't plan to go crazy. Likely stock everything except down pipe, oil pan and head studs. I have refreshed just about everything else on this car to make it as 'new' as possible. I would love to be able to go a few gas fills before needing to check oil. I wonder if a new down pipe with not (likely) 2 clogged cats would help with any sort of back pressure causing undo oil consumption (could also just simply be the car has 244k on original engine) side note: 300 miles on my rebuilt steering rack and still dry. I'll give it a little more time before I open the tie rod boots and check there

honestly I would have expected to reverse to hold up to more given that it is straight cut. In other news, now that I am back to driving I am reminded how many quart of oil I use between fill ups. Time to start budgeting for a type RA short block and a few other goodies. I think I need some of awful's crazy weekend bender type motivation to pull the trigger and make a "quick" turn around Its time this car gets a new heart...the rest of the car deserves it

Also for the H6 long term life, follow the wise advice of Al (Mighty Car Mods, Skid Factory) and ditch the OE headers / Cat. Replace with something aftermarket and then the NA H6 will be happy as a clam. Sort out the suspension and you will be happy

that link to all the bushing options, I updated with my list of OE bushings should you choose to stay OE.

I know I have posted this elsewhere in the past but I figured since this is a good location for aftermarket stuff I'd include the OE list here. The subframe bushings are powerflex 2005-Legacy GT Comprehensive Bushing List.pdf

I need to get better shots but I couldn't wait to post a picture of this dusty gal after her first drive into work. Its been 9 months since I last drove it following plenty of work.