Scooby2.5

what did you guys use to clean the black moulding with before adhering the visors.

It says to use K-500 adhesion promoter.

Wondered if using isopropyl alcohol would work

Nothing in my box for cleaning but I think some of the JDM orders had something

My new motor is in and running great. The Manley 2618 Forged pistons in this motor are so much more quiet than the JE pistons I was running before.

You have a tiny bit of noise on cold starts but it goes away completely. If you let the motor warm up a bit before you put a load on it, you don't really hear them at all.

My JE pistons were noisy all the time.

I HIGHLY recommend these Manley Platinum Series pistons.

That is a great price. Used? That is a good deal less than wholesale.

 

Haven't put the 1.5xtr on the dyno yet - still racking up miles to break in the new engine and clutch.

brand new

Will do man, and I found the rack for 525

Also i cant find anywhere that you posted your 1.5xtr results

Just glad to know I am not the only one! Let us know how it works out for you Greg.

My car is currently at Cobb Plano TX getting a new motor. Im picking it up this thursday so maybe next week I can fix the wiring.

Again thanks for researching this. I drive my car every day but noticed that if I let it set for a few days it would start but I could tell something was draining the battery.

Never mind I see what you did. Only feed from stock FP relay to new relay coil. Then Feed B+ with new relay which is direct from battery and wire from FP+ to the pump.

Ill check mine out.

Good find!

Makes since that B+ is straight to FP+ internally as really the module is only pulsing the negative signal, changing the ground reference

post 65 shows SBT wiring diagram he drew for the forum members

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-your-fuel-pump-wiring-4th-gen-213570p5.html

I ended up with a slight variation of the wiring that resolved this issue for me. Instead of tapping off B+ to feed the FP+ wire directly, I cut the B+ wire and use it to trigger the relay and feed battery voltage direct to the B+ terminal on the FPCM. The FP+, FP-, and E wires are all left intact from the factory, with new 10-12GA wire soldered in parallel to the stock wires. Basically this repurposes the red/black B+ wire from power to signal for the new relay.

 

With the conventional wiring I observed a drop of ~.75V between the battery and B+ terminal at the FPCM. Granted, I have the battery in the trunk so the power had to run to the front of the car on the main 1/0GA wire before going through the main fuse box, to the relay, and back to the FPCM. However, I think it is safe to assume that the long run of 18GA red/black wire was the primary contributor to that voltage drop.

 

With the standard LGT FPCM I observed ~.05V drop between the B+ and FP+ terminals. Neither STI FPCM worked for me.

 

With the new wiring I see ~.05V drop between the battery and FPCM B+, which combined with the .05V drop inside the FPCM means my pump is seeing just .1V less than battery voltage at all times (well, less any losses along the 12GA wires I ran in parallel to the pump).

 

Furthermore, when the key is switched off, the power to B+ from the factory relay is removed, switching off the new relay. I have verified that the drain on the battery has been eliminated.

 

Attached schematic of my version of the mod. Big thanks to all who pioneered this before me.

It seems to me from your drawing all you did was disconnect B+ from the module. So B+ is removed and that signal is just feeding the relay and not the module?

Not sure what you meant by feeding FP+ unless you had done what turkey lord had done in post 564-569 here

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-pump-control-module-143860p38.html

Thanks for this underdog. I recently discovered my car was draining the battery.

I never thought about the fact the relay was not turning off.

Ill have to look into fixing mine with your new diagram.

You saved me some troubleshooting!!

Well this is a bit older thread but ill update you guys later next week.

I have a misfire on my built motor and Cobb plano is doing a leak down/Compression test this week.

The motor has 95K on 2816 Forged JE Pistons, Cobb/Crower rods, STI crank, STI Crank and Rod bearings, ARP head studs, Killer B p/u tube.

If the motor comes out Ill report back with pictures hopefully on what a piston slap happy motor looks like with almost a 100K and 4 years on it.

I am thinking its an exhaust valve issue but it will be interesting to see what the SB looks like

Best bet would be to download the PDF file that SBT drew up and follow that. The relay in his drawing is labeled with numbers for each pin.

Then look at the DW plug (which has blue, white, yellow, black) and the relay (should be numbered similar to drawing) provided and match it up.

Nice find on the stop techs. Where did you get them for that?

Those are nice.....a buddy of mine has them

The brake swap wilwood kit with the stock sized rotors works well and you get to keep your dust shields SBT

I just have always wanted a matching rear set