Scooby2.5

That's what I was referring to... "popping" it out. No need to remove the BJ to pop it out of the control arm / hub interface point. Undo the retaining "clamp" bol (not the castle nut), leverage down on the control arm and pop it loose from its seat in the the bottom of the hub, swing the hub out of the way, slide the axle out, slide the axle in, align the BJ with it's seat in the hub, slide it back in, tighten the clamp bolt, done with the BJ.

Yea your right, nut is not bothered if you pop it out of the clamp.

That's what I was thinking of.......

Maybe some goof ball thought you had to remove nut????

Called it. Why did they even mess with the castle nut - that presumes that they attempted or took the BJ off. The retainer bolt/nut yes, to get it out of it's seat and move the hub, but no need to remove the BJ to pull the axles.

Many shops pop the ball joint out to flip wheels forward to more easily pull axels out of hub and transmission.

My guess is that is what was done.

Same as turkeylord

Yes you have to have a relay so power is not live to the pump all the time.

This relay needs to be switched "on" by the red and black wire coming from the original fuel pump relay.

 

I ran the pos batt wire through the firewall at the rubber plug in the middle of the firewall near dog bone.

 

From there across to driver kick panel area and then down the side of the car. The carpet is held down with the black trim pieces and if you just pull on them they pop off. You will see the factory harness there and just run along with it.

Once you get to the back seat area just follow wiring harness to the back of the car where the FPCM is. You will place the relay there. Then from the relay back to under the seat and over to pump via rubber grommet on drivers side access, then below floor to the pump access.

I did my own. Reverse lights work, and the reverse light lead triggers the cam display on the head unit. It's probably just an unhooked wire.

 

Thanks for the tip on the shifter! I'll play with it next weekend.

Oh I gotcha wasn't thinking camera.

Picked up my car tonight & drove it home.

 

First impressions... WOW. Incredible. Snappy shifts on the stock STi shifter. And QUIET. I knew my tranny was making noises, but I had no idea how loud it was before it was gone.

 

The tech used the 5MT harness and sensors. Cruise control works. Reverse lights work. My cobbled reverse cam doesn't work in reverse, although my "reverse cam button" works fine. My USB charger for my iPhone doesn't work... but since those are both my doing, I'm sure they just screwed it up in the swap. I can't blame them for that.

 

Issues: my used 4EAT driveshaft has a loose bit of metal inside. It sounds like jingle bells at speeds under 10mph with the windows down. I checked with my supplier but haven't heard back yet on a refund for the shaft. I'm mainly worried about imbalance, but I don't have any evidence of that yet. I also have a new clunk in the front right, but haven't gotten under the car to have a look yet. It may just be an endlink.

 

They couldn't install the Cobb 6MT shifter because the reverse lockout cable was "too short." I'm going to play with it to see if I can get it to work. In the meantime, the stock height is obnoxious, and the 5MT shift boot for my STS is flopping around loose. Looks goofy.

 

Cost:

 

$4200 for 2010 STi tranny, shift linkage & shifter, clutch, R160 diff, 4EAT driveshaft

$50 for shift knob

$95 for six quarts of Extra-S

$740 for labor

 

Total = $5085, unless I've left something out. I still have to part out my 5MT bits.

Cobbled reverse cam????

On the Cobb shifter I wonder if they followed the instructions?

Have to flip reverse linkage forward and hold with Allen wrench to get slack in cable.

Yep it's a sweet swap one of my favorite

^ lol the stock auto drive shaft is fine .. trust me !

Exactly. I'm running 425 ft lb wheel torque in an outback XT with a 2.5i 4eat sedan driveshaft.

Fits perfect and works perfect.

[/b]

 

The 1/0 needs to be fused within 18 inches of the battery. This protects the vehicle in case the 1/0 shorts to ground anywhere along it's run. It's fused at 200 amps to provide sufficient current for the system I intend to install.

 

200A is too large for the 10awg to be fused at and would be a fire hazard if a short developed, so it's fused at a more appropriate 20A.

Ok I got ya I guess just wasn't paying attention to the fact you are running stereo feed or what have you to the back.

So you put a fuse at the battery and then a fuse at the back off the relay feeding the pump.

Why 2?

You put your fuse for the battery lead at the back instead of by the battery?

Hope it never blows, cause it will blow changing it LOL PUN intended....

http://i.imgur.com/OFnObhrl.jpg

Okay - reread everything again (both threads) and see the relay in the discussion. Not sure how I missed that

 

Think I'm just going to get the STI FPCM and the DW "kit" and call it a day. Any suggestions, or how-to, to best run the (+) 12V supply from the battery back to the relay/FPCM location?

Exactly what I did. Here are some pics of DW kit already run and a pic of one of the pins soldered on a wire (hadn't shrink wrapped it yet).

I like how the DW kit has a relay socket and also a metal loop on the back to use the FPCM nut and bolt to mount it.

I used yellow and red wire. Yellow for the Green/Yellow wire to the pump and Red for the Green/Red wire to the pump. All 12GA

Also SBT the red wire coming from the battery may seem a bit short if you have a wagon but the length of wire on the socket allows it to be just long enough

So the consensus is that by upgrading the 12V (+) power supply side wiring (from the battery to the replacement STI FPCM), and only the (+) and (-) wires between the FPCM and the fuel pump, that a relay in the circuit is not "required"?

Yes you have to have a relay so power is not live to the pump all the time.

This relay needs to be switched "on" by the red and black wire coming from the original fuel pump relay.

I ran the pos batt wire through the firewall at the rubber plug in the middle of the firewall near dog bone.

From there across to driver kick panel area and then down the side of the car. The carpet is held down with the black trim pieces and if you just pull on them they pop off. You will see the factory harness there and just run along with it.

Once you get to the back seat area just follow wiring harness to the back of the car where the FPCM is. You will place the relay there. Then from the relay back to under the seat and over to pump via rubber grommet on drivers side access, then below floor to the pump access.

Lastly I would say if your alternator is weak, and will only output 13.5-13.8 volts which is common on a Subaru, then placing a diode in the ALT Sensing line will bump the output up to 14.2-14.5 like it really should be.

Thanks Frankster and KCwagon for finding this tip!

http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/raise-your-alternator-voltage-10547.html?amp

I just did this mod with the MK3 PTC diode fuse from Australia. They have been doing this for years on the japanese imports.

 

Notice he has added Subaru to the list as I ordered and installed one of these MK3 diode/PTC fuses.

 

 

http://www.hkbelect.com

 

If you email this guy he will give you a discount

 

 

Here is a thread on NASIOC and this will for sure help the fuel pump voltage issue, although wiring should still be changed etc.

 

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1602651

 

My alternator voltage is around 13.8 when warm. By the time the voltage drops through the circuits in the car I was low.

 

Now I am putting out 14.5 pretty much all the time.

 

I have a AGM braille battery which when fully charged should be 13.8 volts, 12.6 at rest.

 

It needs 14.5-14.7 to charge it properly according to braille. After doing this mod my battery is 13.84 when car shut off and 12.6-12.8 after resting. I am sure my pump is now running easily 13.5 volts.

Well the verdict is the STI/Impreza fuel pump module was able to plug right into the LGT harness.

 

Bad news is the STI module only output 11.9 volts. .2 more than the stock legacy module using the small stock wiring harness.

 

 

Good news is that if you bypass the stock wiring harness, that seems to drop 1.7-2 volts, with a direct battery feed the STI/Impreza module outputs 13.5 volts to the pump. (This voltage is also determined by how good your alternator output is)

 

If you bypass the wiring harness on the legacy module we would only get 12.5 volts.

 

So it looks as though the STI/Impreza module does output a bit more voltage on max than the legacy module does if the voltage into the module is correct or more..

 

With 13.5v going to the pump now by bypassing the harness with a wire and another relay and using the STI/Impreza module they were able to tune my car to 385WHP 425WTQ on the ID1000 injectors and FMIC. The IDC was around 90%

22750AA010

 

http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/22750AA010/

Yep, good news is a lot of cars used the expensive one so it may not be too difficult to find at the salvage yards

 

Someone needs to test the 08 one with batt/alt voltage running to it and see what comes out.

 

IMPREZA

'02, October —SEDAN2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WD6SP Manual transmissionSTINormal suspension

'05, April —SEDAN2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WD5SP Manual transmissionWRXNormal suspension

'05, April —SEDAN2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WDAutomatic transmissionWRXNormal suspension

'06, June —SEDAN2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WD5SP Manual transmissionWRX-TRNormal suspension

'06, June —SEDAN2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WD6SP Manual transmissionSTI LIMITEDNormal suspension

'05, April —WAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WD5SP Manual transmissionWRXNormal suspension

'05, April —WAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFulltime 4WDAutomatic transmissionWRXNormal suspension

 

 

FORESTER:

'03, January — '05, MarchWAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDManual transmission2.5XTNormal suspension

'05, January —WAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDManual transmission2.5XTNormal suspension

'03, January — '05, MarchWAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDAutomatic transmission2.5XTNormal suspension

'05, January — '06, MarchWAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDAutomatic transmission2.5XTNormal suspension

'06, February —WAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDAutomatic transmission2.5XTNormal suspension

'07, February —WAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDManual transmissionFORESTER SPORTSNormal suspension

'07, February —WAGON2500CC EMPI DOHC TURBOFULLTIME 4WDAutomatic transmissionFORESTER SPORTSNormal suspension

I'm using the original LGT module. Part numbers for STi modules are listed in the other thread, however there is some discrepancies in which year STi and what part number people are using.

 

IMHO, the wiring is the main problem with the system.

Actually the STI module you want to use is the 2004-2007 WRX and STI. If you look in the first few pages of the other thread I believe Unclemat found that the 2008 up WRX uses the the same module as the legacy. We also put up a listing of the cars using the older style.

The interesting thing is the older module was like $300 from Subaru and the newer one is $90

We were buying ours used off eBay or NASIOC.

I also with the help of Calvin Dotson the tuner for Cobb Plano, found that the stock module even if directly powered from the battery would output only around 12.5-12.7 volts.

The WRX/STI module would output 13.7

I might add also that 12ga wire is plenty big enough from the battery and also over to the pump.

I just purchased the kit from DW and it was pretty good. Had a socket for the Relay, the really had a tab to bolt it to the FPCM bolt and also had a fuse holder in the batter feed.

http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/accessories/fuel-pump-hardwire-installation-kit-detail

A lot of guys are using 10 gauge which is more expensive and overkill really.

The wiring in a stock STI which doesn't have this problem is around 14 gauge near as I could tell.

For those that want to remove the pins, you can go to the original thread and there is information on removing the pins from the connectors which is pretty easily done and then you can solder right on the pin.

Not good. The green yellow is the wire that runs out of the FPCM to the fuel pump.

If you are not using that wire anymore because you ran power off the new relay direct to the pump I still wouldn't use that to trigger the new relay. That is the voltage coming out of the pump module and has a big capacitor in it. When the key shuts off the module may stay on for a while until it bleeds off but not sure.

I wouldn't be using that to power the relay.

Look at colds drawings he posted up a few posts ago they are very good and give the color codes.

Red and black wire from stock fuel pump relay should be the new relay trigger

Are you using the red wire with black stripe that fed the FPCM?

If so that is a key on power fed from the stock fuel pump relay which I believe is on the passenger side kick panel near the door if I remember correctly.

I would say your FACTORY fuel pump relay or your new one has a problem if you are using that red wire.

If you are turn the key on and see if you have voltage on it. Then turn key off and see if its gone.

I rewired mine this weekend as well. The wiring job and relay setup I had from working on it at Cobb left a lot to be desired and I hadn't yet increased the wire size to the pump from the module.

I ran 12 gauge wire from battery to my new relay, using the old module feed to trigger the new relay.

I ran 12 gauge wire from the new relay straight to the fuel pump, using STI pins in my old connector.

I ran 12 gauge wire from the neg PWM signal off the module straight to the pump. I did this by removing the pins from the connector and soldering 12 ga wire right to the pin on the module end and using STI pins on the pump end.

Just a note the STI wiring harness to and from the FPCM , and to and from the pump is 14 gauge. Really more than enough for 12-15 volts.

When I was done and with the Diode mod, I was seeing about 14.5 volts coming out of my relay, headed toward the pump when I first started the car.

After the car warms up I usually see around 14.2

I didn't want to get my scope out so I didn't measure the PWM negative side but it seemed to be changing just fine on the AP.

Ill post up some pics of what mine looks like later tonight

Just as a refresher........

The STI module did put out 1 more volt with battery voltage feeding it as opposed to the stock module.....

Well the verdict is the STI/Impreza fuel pump module was able to plug right into the LGT harness.

 

Bad news is the module only output 11.9 volts. .2 more than the stock legacy module on the stock wiring harness.

 

 

Good news is that if you bypass the stock wiring harness that seems to drop 1.7-2 volts and run battery voltage direct the STI/Impreza module outputs 13.5 volts to the pump.

 

If you bypass the wiring harness and run battery voltage direct the legacy module we would get 12.5 volts.

 

So it looks as though the STI/Impreza module does output a bit more voltage on max than the legacy module does if the voltage into the module is correct or more.

 

I don't know why the legacy drops 1.7-2v across the harness but it seems that is the case.

 

With 13.5v going to the pump now by bypassing the harness with a wire and another relay and using the STI/Impreza module they were able to tune my car to 385WHP 425WTQ on the ID1000 injectors and FMIC. The IDC was around 90%

Here it is.....pump plug harness from impreza.

With the newest module in place and the FPCM drawing power from the factory fuel pump relay, the car starts to lose fuel pressure around 15psi and AFRs begin to rise.

 

Drawing power from the Aeromotive relay, fuel pressure rises and holds all the way to 19psi and the car runs like a champ.

 

 

So I think we can rest easy in that the first replacement FPCM I ordered was bunk.

 

 

FWIW: Whilst the harness is completely different and won't fit, the 2008-2012 Imprezas (WRX and STi included) use the same fuel pump basket that the 2005-2009 Legacys do. That being said, the PLUG on the Impreza fuel harness is the same as ours. The reason I bring this up, is because I actually wore out one of the retention pins in my factory fuel pump plug removing and plugging in different pins and test wires. I intended to replace the plug in it's entirety, but wasn't able to find a part number for the Legacy rear fuel harness. But I was able to source the rear fuel cord/harness for a 2012 Impreza for fairly cheap, which not only provided me with a replacement fuel pump plug and a few inches of wiring, but also a plethora of replacement PINS. That harness has a bunch of other plugs on it with pins that are the same size as the ones in the fuel pump plug. I've not been able to find a reliable source for the larger crimp pins that Subaru uses in the various plugs and harnesses around the car (except the ECU pins, which IA Performance sells). Through my exercise of soldering 10awg wire to the FPCM harness, I realized it would be incredibly handy to have a few extra crimps pins on hand as spares. The part number for the Impreza fuel harness is 81803FG010, in case anyone ever finds themselves in the same situation I was in.

 

With the new plug and wiring in place, everything sealed up, the car is running like a champ. I plan to take the car in to a friend's shop next week to hook the FPCM up to a lab scope, as my inner geek doesn't like to just let shit be. I want to have concrete and tangible evidence that it's working like it's supposed to, and not just rely on my butt dyno, as it were.

 

 

Lesson learned: when acquiring junkyard parts, especially electronics, never assume that they work.

 

Scooby 2.5, Coldsubycz, Integroid, and everyone else who has contributed to this thread, thank you for your help. I'd probably still be banging my head against the wall trying to figure out a fuel pressure problem if it wasn't for your input, time, and research.

Nice drawings that should help......

Now what I did today.....

I had purchased the fuel pump plug wiring from an STI. The part number 81803FG010 someone (Aracheon) had provided earlier on in the thread.

This wiring has 6 wires just like the Legacy with the exception of the positive and negative feed wires going into the fuel pump plug were larger.

Alot of guys were running larger wire from the FPCM to the fuel pump plug and splicing to the smaller wire just an inch or two on the outside of the fuel pump plug.

I took the new STI wiring harness and was able to POP the pins out of the plug.

I am going to solder my large wire onto the pins/wire I took out of the STI harness and run that wire back to the module and or the fuel pump relay.

I am then going to just push those pins into my existing pump harness so it should be clean and neat.

Here are pictures on how to get the pins out of the fuel pump plug.

Left to right....

1. Pry up the top of the plug, it hinges back. (already done in the first pic)

2. Pry off the white 'cap'

3. Stick a small screw driver into the pin area and pry up the keeper tab and at the same time pull on the wire from the back side.

4. Same on the second row of pins.

I only took the 2 lower guage wires out of the STI harness as seen in the last pic. Notice how the green with yellow stripe is around 10-12 gauge wire and the green with red stripe is the same.

These are the wires from the module to the pump positve and negative and Subaru made them larger on the STI. The colors are the same on all wires both legacy and STI, but these two feed wires to the pump are larger on the STI harness.

I will POP those into my stock harness and run lower guage wire direct from there either to the module or the relay depending on which way I decide to do it tomorrow.

^ So do you think the NASIOC guys/gals would be laughing at this thread because for them this is "old hat" ?

I think the one guy I mentioned or Shawn mentioned would be laughing a bit.

He wired battery direct to pump and negative of module to pump he left alone.

Seems like a long time ago but you would have to check his post in the NASIOC thread we posted earlier