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Posts posted by Scooby2.5
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what HP/TQ did you put down on the 1.5xtr. Im putting one on in the spring. 93 and E85 tunes
Love that first pic with the silver wheels.
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Only if I don't end up using a prybar and sledgehammer, because after trying it the first time and failing, second time I'm definitely going to be more pissed.
The only items I took out were the glovebox (basically just the door that opens), and the covers for the air filter. Maybe others have had success with that, but I did not. The whole passenger side bottom plastic part under the dashboard needs to come out, otherwise I don't see how the job can be accomplished, and I have yet to see a DIY guide for that part.
Luckily, I have the Legacy service manual. And I am comfortable pulling the stereo out since I've done it 3 times while doing a proper AUX-IN mod.
Follow this and then you will have access to the actuators on the passenger side.
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Oh just looked you up seems you bought an Outback. FYI the outback and Legacy JDM bumpers are different
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N.Y.X. I think what has me confused is you have a Legacy not an Outback correct?
The outbacks didn't have the cutouts, but the legacy does. Are you just wanting the JDM bumper as its shorter?
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I wasn't sure that one on eBay was the correct one. I couldn't tell by the pic if the flare was wide enough for an outback
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Yea isnt that CRAZY!
When I purchase mine it was like 250 via DHL from japan parts......
They even accidentally sent it next day air and I had it in less than 21 hours
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Holy Crap look what I found with the part number that was posted.
Partsouq is the place everyone was getting the very expensive vent visors for 144 bucks.
So I decided to check there......
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I ONLY want the unpainted bumper skin, will fab a new support myself. Issue is I punch those item numbers in and they don't come up. It's weird.
Here are the search results for "107-025-016" punched in to their search function. Nothing...,
https://www.japanparts.com/parts/list.php?skwd=107-025-016&x=38&y=15
You don't need any kind of 'fabbed" support. Read my first post.
You only need the skin, the legacy GT US sedan beam and the brackets.
If you ever have any questions PM me and Ill give you my cell
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Im not sure the legacy wagon bumper was the same even in japan or Canada and Australia.
What you need is a Outback bumper from another country.
I could be wrong but that would be my guess.
Here is a picture and a link to a used Subaru Outback in AU that had the bumper. The main difference being the edge of the fender flare
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Just FYI, you could buy just the skin and not the "set" and it should be cheaper.
Note how it says in the link "All hard ware, back beam include. *Choose color."
All you really need is the painted or unpainted bumper.
The set includes pop its, an unusable "back beam" etc etc..
The numbers for just the skin painted and unpainted are these:
107-025-015
107-025-016
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Could you please elaborate on how this is done? Is it possible to unbolt the whole airbag assembly and wiggle it out when working from the footwell?
Or is it easy enough to R&R the inflator can (which is what the recall procedure is is actually about) with the airbag still bolted on? Thank you.
Remove the glove box assembly like you are changing the filter.
Also remove the rest of glove box area which isn't much more.
Remove the center cubby
Remove the right side vent.
Unbolt and take out through the cubby area
Takes my dealer about 45 min
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It's seriously a piece of cake to do this through the glove box area.
Wonder why these moron dealerships are still taking the dash out?
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Hey guys followed along on all the post about the fuel pump rewiring. Finally got around to wiring it up. Followed exactly to the diagrams. Car fires right runs for about 1 min then dies. Noticed duty cycle at 100% on fire up and stays at 100% for fuel pump. Not sure what is going on at this point any help would be great thanks guys
The reduced percentage is done by the fuel pump control module on the negative leg. It is pulse width modulated.
You either have something wired wrong or something in wrong with your module
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bride stradia ii and gias ii on siding rails.
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/910/26xhyk.jpg
http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/908/itdnd5.jpg
nice!!!!
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With no controller, it is unlocked. Honestly I like it better that way anyhow unless there's snow or ice on the road... I unhooked my controller while searching for electrical gremlins, and just never bothered to hook it back up.
you may as well have the spec b transmission
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Got the airbag replaced in my OBXT today - no drama. They confirmed eligibility for the dash replacement and ordered the part. Unfortunately they are unwilling to work with me on the airbag replacement for the LGT, won't provide parts for self-install (understandable) or do the job if I bring the car in partially torn down. Guess I'm keeping the shrapnel bomb in there. Once I swap the seats it is questionable if the airbags will still work as designed so...
what seats underdog?
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Got the airbag replaced in my OBXT today - no drama. They confirmed eligibility for the dash replacement and ordered the part. Unfortunately they are unwilling to work with me on the airbag replacement for the LGT, won't provide parts for self-install (understandable) or do the job if I bring the car in partially torn down. Guess I'm keeping the shrapnel bomb in there. Once I swap the seats it is questionable if the airbags will still work as designed so...
Just take it apart like I did and take it in. What can they say
I have STI gauge pack as well and it doesn't come out just the surround.
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Sup guys I just bought an 06 6 speed with 75k miles for $1500 for my swap. I have been researching the swap and I have all the parts on the way except a DCCD controller. I don't care about DCCD right now so I was wondering if I can just install the trans without a controller? Will it stay open or locked, and is it bad in any way? Thanks in advance, trying to get her done before BAM!
Yep you can run it. I recently had a problem with my DCCD and it drove fine without it.
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Sure beats the price for an OEM replacement
Just have to change the rear flange to work with the R180, correct?
Actually when you use the R180 you use the Yoke from the R160 on the R180 that way your driveshaft works.
Spec b R180 is an R180 with R160 yoke IIRC
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Can't you just pull out the body spacers?
Well Originally I was going to do that. In fact I have all the LGT parts to do it properly.
With that said I decided against it because the motor and transmission sit down about and inch in the car with the outback spacers.
This allows more hood clearance for things like my FMIC hose to turbo etc.
I just felt like I would rather have the engine to hood clearance so I decided not to remove the spacers.
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In fact I took it all apart like above and they changed the bag out.
I had to change my actuators for the HVAC so I did that then took it over apart.
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Thought about looking at one of these, local parts store carries them
http://www.ebay.com/itm/221873266908?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Same here, scooby. Ok running a legacy spec driveshaft and have thought about trying to search for an OBK driveshaft. Add it to the list...
Are you having trouble with rear seal? My first 6 speed never did this but my brand new 6 speed I have had 2 rear seals leak.
Only thing I can think of is the shaft angle is slightly different even though it spins fine and no vibration at all.
STI Master Cyl. and Brake Booster SWAP SUMMARY for LGT
in Walkthroughs :: Performance Modifications
Posted
He fenominal, which Grimmspeed brace did you get to use with STI booster in a LGT/Outback?