Scooby2.5

And just in case since I didn't see any mention of it. You can in fact de-pin the fuel pump connector. Took me awhile to figure it out but I got it.

 

Place a flat head underneath the white portion where it meets the little rubber o-ring and yes the gray portion of the plug to leverage the white part up.

It will slide up and stop. From here you can pull the white part off or just leverage it more and it'll come off.

From here, get your small flat tip de-pinning driver and as normal unseat the lock tap and pull the pin out.

Be warned there is not much room to work in there to cut and crimp as I did instead of soldering. I chose this route because I wanted to be able to heat shrink and don't like to solder anymore.

I did this very thing on my install. Took it apart and ran the wire right to the pin

Information from AEM E85 pump that Cobb sells. This is the pump I will be going with on my 2013 STI. I was reading the instructions and thought this was more good info that AEM provides......

Electrical Requirement

The supply voltage will affect the fuel delivery of the AEM Fuel Pump. The typical electrical system on modern cars is between 13.2 – 14.2 volts. Although the AEM fuel pump will run at lower voltages the flow will be lower. Ensure the voltage is 13.5V at the pump. The current requirement is minimum 10 amps. The correct wire size will be determined by the length of wire, the wire type and the resistance of any terminals, splices or solder joints in the electrical or ground supply. The ground is equally important and the preferred ground is to route the ground wire to a star ground source that is directly attached to the battery negative post. The minimum wire gauge is 12ga. TXL wire. Twelve feet (12’)of TOTAL CIRCUIT length (power & ground) 12 ga. is required and Twenty feet (20’) 10 ga. is required.

Before wiring the pump to the electrical system make sure the polarity is correct. Connecting the pump with reverse polarity will damage the pump and is not covered under warranty. Please note; the connector on the AEM 320-E LPH Fuel Pump has a small insulated wire on it between the positive and negative terminals. It must remain place, do not cut it off.

I would but I sold the car

Just go to the dealer and ask for the part and measure it. Might be easier with the skin off.

When I got my beam it was in stock at the dealer.

Does anyone sell a bolt on rear support Beam for the JDM bumper cover?

Im not sure if it will work but when I put the JDM bumper on my Outback XT which was shorter I used the Sedan bumper beam and mounting brackets.

It worked perfect.

Look up my user name and JDM outback bumper thread

It is a Koyo

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1 hour? [emoji23] I was driving 8 to go to Cobb Plano. [emoji51]

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You have to wash it off under there once in a while and it will look like this after 287K [emoji23]

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Not that I'm aware of, unless you had a Legacy shaft and picked up an OBK shaft this time. The carrier bearing has some extra height to it for the OBKs, but you can run either on either car really.

This ^

The point was DCCD not the driving skills. [emoji849]

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Yea Underdog is still here, and so am I. I sold my Outback "STI" but Ill still be on the forums myself.

Been on here since 2005, how could we ever leave????

Especially since my newly acquired 2013 STI hatch is a Legacy in different clothing to some degree...So many things are the same

Here you guys go..... A video of tracking a WRX that was 6 speed swapped with map DCCD controller.

Yes the DCCD is worth it.......

I have Cobb on my built 2005 outback "STI" that just recently sold.

My 2013 STI hatch I just purchased is getting Cobb.

I'm almost 49 and I love the Cobb deep sound

The. Ever Cobb units have a resonator in the mid pipe

Sounds like the Module is blown. It should change the reference to ground voltage to proved 33% 66% 100% pump duty cycle.

If you have an AP you can check it on startup to see if it is changing but sounds like you found the problem.

On startup it goes 100% for a few seconds then drops to 33%.

Guess I am not following you. When I go to the top of this page it says page 145

I can then click on page 143 and it takes me right to the page with the recent discussion on the STI 6 speed vs Spec b

How many posts per page do you have on? Perhaps a post number to start reading at might be a better guide for him

Note: I said PAGE 143 not post....

No I meant, as I said, go back to PAGE 143, like 2 pages before this page and take a look.

We had been discussing the STI 6 speed vs spec b 6 speed.

Interesting how some 05 LGTs with stock tune can only make it to 95,000 miles without burning an exhaust valve, and yours has made it to 235,000 miles, and still going.

I believe it is partially a fueling issue. I replaced 2 motors with burned exhaust valves. Stock engine at 158K, built motor at 98K.

I installed a FORE INNOVATIONS in-line fuel filter in my latest motor. It only has 30K on it right now.

I believe that the cylinders are getting leaned out by poor fueling as the injectors get dirty.

Subaru does not have a fuel filter and the sock in the tank is not enough. Subaru used to have an inline filter.......

As well as the valve adjustment.....

I will try to find the article of a Subaru shop that discussed this and why I started investigating fueling.

Also I had run a set of ID1000 injectors in my first build and at one point around 60-70K they were so dirty they were out of spec.

I was getting a misfire which led me to pull them.

I had them cleaned and put back to spec and then about 15k later the misfire got worse and it was a valve. I believe the damage had already started as I could never get the misfire to fully go away no matter what I did and then it finally failed.

If I were putting in a new motor or even had a fairly new Subaru turbo car, I would plumb in a really good inline filter.

Just about every person that I drive with at the track here in the Northwest seems to leave their DCCD in Auto for tarmac driving. I think the adjustability would be a big advantage for dirt/gravel/rally but it seems to be a set and forget for tarmac around here with pretty much everyone. ZF Design in Colorado is finishing up my '14 Sti 6 speed this week and while I'll be going with a DCCD, I don't have plans to hook up a controller.

How do you have DCCD without a controller? Guess I am not following you. Maybe you are hooking up a DCCD computer that is auto only??

Auto mode is great on tarmac I would agree. Locked in the snow is like driving a Jeep

To those who think it doesn't matter much to have it just amazes me after having driven both.....G-Force sensor in middle of car, TPS sensor, YAW steering sensor etc and a computer that moves the torque to different wheels to help understeer oversteer etc. but no it doesn't really do anything

My STI with the SP600 tires DCCD, VDC, .93-.95 on the skidpad is like GLUE on a cloverleaf. Its actually pretty amazing.

Would never, ever be without it now. One of the best mods I ever did to my outback and worth the $350-500 for the aftermarket DCCD.

As fahr_side stated it transforms the car

https://www.dccdpro.com